The reason for the 3bar code is not just that I want to run higher boost. But I also want to have options for driability. See my sighn..I made a bet/promice that I was going to get as close or at 500 hp on the 3.1. Sounds like im cocky right. Well im not saying that its going to be making 500 all day long...It will be a dyno queen for that set time. And I know that 14psi isn't going to cut it no matter if my heads flow a millon cfm. Oh...I won't be running stock pipes eather. You could count on a big snail.
By the way...I have those pic of the 65. They'll be on my site soon.
:wink:
There might be large enough/high-tech enough-latest technology turbos to do 15 psi of some cold mass air and make close to 500 hp, check the Pressure Ratio of some of the GT Series Turbos from Garrett (if you did this then disregard!!!!!). Determine the air flow potential of your engine and check these mass-air turbo charts to see where you stand. As you know big flowing heads, even a cam if you need to squeeze all you can will help. Next would be 3100 or even better a 3400 intake setup, or Extrude Hone the 3.1L big as safely possible, then match whichever to a larger TB. Biggest intercooler you can fit in there, top/down not one of those pretty-boy long side to side jobs, then the least amount of bends/gradual bends in the air pipes. Even short stroke the engine as it is finally getting recognized and showing up on the Net, even on some of the 660/60 degree Forums etc to get more hp this way, and as torque only gets you out of the hole, besides gearing will get you more torque from hp, or if she is a dyno-queen (garage queen after) then dyno sheet hp bragging rights will take to a shorter stroke with impressive results (can anyone say Ferrari and such that do it this way all the time!??!). As for the 3bar, since I am shooting for kits that more people would be interested in, affordable etc, I am shooting for an easy to run 350 hp setup, very doable since this engine back in the late 70 early 80s and some beyond were running 350 hp at 8,500 rpms and 13.5:1 CR, lasting through a season or more of races, lop off the more destructive high rpms and more than 350 hp is not that far from the limits of the block. What limits in the block is the bottom webbing where the crank is held in, it can flex which will side load the main bearings, so run some soft bearings to sacrifice and swap them often or some hard ones with more clearance and only run heavy weight oil. If you stick with a standard bore or only 20 over, should not have to worry as much about cylinder walls holding, but this and everything quoted assumes you don’t knock things too hard when tuning, which can happen if not being very careful. When getting past 7,000 rpms or so, time to look for better rods and crank, forged pistons are always nice. At this level of power you are going to have to O-Ring the block, stainless steel wire (email me for specs, though I have 3 spare O-Ring blocks), copper head gasket! Back to a 3 bar, not going to get better driveability, actually less as the resolution drops in your load tables, or you can extend the table ranges but this will be as much fun/work as getting the ignition DIS side satisfied. I have some contacts that are doing this 3bar to a $8F, might be done but I am not going to give away any of their work/emails, that is for them to decide if they want to do this. Aftermarket EMS are getting cheaper and better all the time, might find one on eBay or other places, best to get one that has the wide-band input option, really worth it especially since it will log this and all your parameters as well as the real time display, and the to-die-for: enter in you’re A/F ratio and let the EMS do the preliminary work, very slick.
Good luck.
Jeff M
