So I am going to skip the disclaimer because you are working with fuel and possible electrical arcing...use your head for something other than a brain matter container!
OK the pictures attached will show you what I am talking about.
1). Remove your upper intake plenum and set it aside.
2). The first picture shows the fuel injector power connector and retaining clip (shiny metal wire behind screwdriver blade). You should be able to use your thumb or finger to PUSH IN the retainer clip...DO NOT TRY TO PRY IT AWAY FROM THE CONNECTOR...it goes in towards the body of the injector.
3). While pushing in you need to gently rock the connector from side to side and pull at the same time to release it from the fuel injector.
4). Now you see the second picture. This is the two power terminals that power and fire the fuel injector. This is what we want to know the resistance of.
5). Take a digital volt meter and touch one lead (red) to one terminal, then take the other lead (black) and touch it to the other terminal. DO NOT LET YOUR FINGER BRIDGE THE GAP OR LET THE TWO LEADS TOUCH TOGETHER! You will read much less resistance if they cross/touch each other and if you are touching both of the test leads with your fingers you will read your bodies resistance...not the injector!
If each test lead is touching only one terminal at a time and your fingers are on the handles of the leads...you will read the resistance of the injector. A good resistance will be between 12.0 - 12.6 ohms. Not Kohms...not Mohms....just 0-100 ohm setting on your DVM if it is not an auto selecting unit.
If you are higher then there is a problem with your contact with the leads.
If it is 11.9 then it is borderline and should be replaced.
If it is less than 11.8 ohms then it is bad!
Most of the time I see "dead" injectors with 4 - 6 ohms of resistance. That is a near shorted winding and definitely causing driveability problems.
Hope this helps!
-Kenny
