Hey members
For anyone who has visited the site for the last few years, it is no mystery that the membership and posting traffic has slowed down to a crawl. The Turbo grand prix is slowly fading in to the past, and that has left me with a decision to make in regards to the future of this forum.
Starting January 1st 2021, new member registrations will be disabled for this forum, and new topic creation will be turned off.
Starting February 1st 2021, topic replies will be turned off. At this point the forum will enter an "Archive" status and will remain on the internet as a large resource for the Turbo Grand Prix. I will enable guest access to all previously hidden forums (with exception to administration forums), so all topics can be accessed without a registered user account.
Future TGP questions/topics can be created over at the W-body.com forums https://www.w-body.com

Thank you to all the members that have contributed to the large data resource this forum holds for the TGP. It is my goal to keep this online for as long as we can do so securely!

Luke LeCount (LukeZ34)TGPforums.com Administrator/Owner

Testing attachments

With the new purchase of my Impala, I now have 4 cars in my possession, and absolutly no more room to park them. So sadly, the TGP must go to someone else who can use it better.

1990 Turbo Grand Prix
106K on the odometer
Black metallic exterior paint, Grey leather interior (RARE)

About the car:
My ex-wife and I purchased this car from it's original owner back in 2004. At the time it had 86K on the odometer. After we got divorced, I purchased it back from her. Since then it's had lots of work done to it, mostly basic maintenance work. The engine runs good, and is equipped with a TopGun 160 chip, and a 160 degree thermostat. A K&N is attached to the turbo, and the stock intake parts are still in my possession. The paint is in good shape except for the front and rear bumpers, which is typical for GM cars of this era. The valence is still intact and is not broken or cracked. The rims look amazing for their age, as the gold paint is bright and not faded.

The interior is grey leather, and the only seat which is showing wear is the drivers seat. The other seats are in great shape, but the rear seat headrests show some sun damage. The carpet is in good shape except on the drivers side where it's stained and worn down to the backing.
The DIC has been upgraded to the STE model, and a factory CD player will be installed in the car (unfortunately the CD player doesn't work). HUD works great, however, the glass is cracked slightly in the corner of the unit. It does NOT affect the visibility of the display. THe headliner was replaced back in 2005, and is still holding up great. The AQ9 functions on the front seats do not work. I don't know why right now, but I do have replacement controls that I will give to the buyer. Polk Audio 4x6's are installed in the dash, and Kenwood Excelon 4x6's are installed in the doors. The factory 6x9's will be installed in the rear deck.

The important stuff
This car runs and drives strong. The transmission was replaced when the car had around 68K on it, and it was not because it was driven hard. The original owner was an older man who only drove it to work and back. It shifts at the right times, and the shifts are firm but not jarring. The turbo and engine are original, and there is no shaft play noticeable. The crossover has been replaced with a Jeff M crossover. The PMIII was replaced with a prior unit, and since then I have replaced the relay and the accumulator. The rear proportioning valve has also been replaced. The brakes on this car are fairly strong for this year of W-body. Other than the TG chip, K&N and the "Condenser fin mod", the car is stock, no exhaust work has been done, but the cat converter was replaced by the original owner. There is no rust on this car.. There is a slight spot on the front of the hood, but it's not noticeable as it's covered by paint. The front tires have semi-decent tread left, but the rears will need replaced soon.
This car has never been ran on a race track, or on a Dyno. It's driven in a respectable manner as I'm not one to speed around town or race every person from a stoplight.
Air conditioning does not work at the moment, but I will have it fixed before the car is sold. A retrofit will be done (by the chevy dealership that I work for). It DOES have a leak, but I do not know where. The accumulator and orifice tube will be replaced. The AC compressor was replaced shortly after the car was bought in 2004.
Suspension is original, and could probably stand to be replaced but it's also still holding up well.
The radiator has a leak as well, but luckily it's right at the top so it's not that big of a problem. It will leak coolant, but check it every 3 weeks and add what it needs and everything is ok.
Windshield has a small crack on the far passenger side.

For the moment, that's all I can think of. If anything else pops up in my head about the car, I'll post it here. Pictures will be posted soon once I have a chance to give it a bath.

Asking price is $3000. I feel this is a good price for a car that has low miles for it's age. It still has lots of miles left in it.
Please PM me with inquiries.
Car is located in Hays Kansas.

Looking for a AC line that goes from the Orifice tube to the condenser. This is the line that has the high side charge port on it.
If you've got one, please shoot me a PM!

Time for it to go!
I've got 3 cars at the moment, and I really only have room for 2 at my house. I don't want to sell the car because I still enjoy it, but it's what I've got to do at this moment in my life.

All the information on the car can be found on this page:
http://www.lukez34.com/96gtpforsale.htm

Price is $2500 FIRM
Located in Hays Kansas http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=67601&ie=UTF8&z=10&iwloc=addr

My contact information is on that page, feel free to PM me on this forum if interested.

I took the plunge.. again. My ex-wife wanted to sell her 90 TGP since she had bought a newer car, so she offered it to me first.
It's only got 103K on it, and I know the car inside and out since I did a bunch of work on it when we were married. It's got a few problem spots (A/C, radiator leak, orig. suspension).. but it runs and drives great.
Planning to sell the 96 at this point in time.. It's a great car, I just can't justify owning 3 cars at the moment, especially since i don't have a garage yet. So if anyone is interested in a good running 96 GTP, hit me up and we'll talk.

Anyway.. I'm back again guys!  :icon_mrgreen:

The valve I ordered from GMPD finally showed up after 3 weeks, and since I was able to order one at work in 1 day, I don't need this second one anymore.
This is a brand new valve, never installed. It is designed for PowerMaster III equipped w-body cars. This is GM part # 88927272

You can get them from GMPD for $65 + $15 for shipping. I am selling mine for $65 shipped. Item will be shipped via USPS, so you'll get it quickly.

PM me here or email me webmaster AT lukez34.com if intrested.

I'm looking for a rear brake proportioning valve from a PowermasterIII equipped W-body.
I noticed a small puddle under the TGP today, and saw little drips of brake fluid hanging off of the valve. If anyone has one for sale, please PM me. Thanks!

I'm in the market for a new O2 sensor for the TGP to replace the shitty Bosch one that's in it now.
Does anyone know if the newer heated O2's for the 3100 and the 3400 will work? What about GM Part #'s?

Is there any way to R&R the relay while the unit is still in the car?
I've got a spare unit here with what looks to be a good relay on it. Our Prior PM III continued to run today after turning the key off, but after smacking the top of the relay with the tip of a screwdriver it stopped.
Just curious if anyone has any secrets for getting the relay out without removing the whole damn unit?

Chris A's site says a properly maintained PM III will run every 2-3 pedal pushes.
The Prior PMIII in our TGP runs every time you push the pedal.
This has been happening for quite sometime, and I just thought it was caused by air in the lines/master cylinder. I changed 2 rear calipers long ago, and never needed to bleed the lines. (Filled calipers w/ fluid, and didn't let brake lines drip) After a while this lead to spongy brakes, and just overall crappy performance.

I bled each caliper, and the 2 master cylinder ports today hoping that would cure some braking issue's we've had lately.
The car brakes MUCH better after bleeding everything, but the pump still runs at every push of the pedal. What else could be causing this?

I've been looking in to replacing all 6 injectors in our TGP since most of them are original, and are reaching the end of their lives.

Some reading on here shows that new L36 injectors have the same flow rate as the LG5 injectors, but they won't allow the fuel rail to bolt back down. (no biggie)
Another thread I came across was 1996 Non SC Rivera Injectors were also a match.
I found these on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-3-8-Non-Supercharged-Fuel-Injectors-P-N-280150973_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33554QQitemZ8032730967QQtcZphoto

Those look like like the original LG5 injectors, so one could assume the fuel rail could bolt down easily with these.
Would these be the correct flow rate? Is there a chart that cross references the part numbers with the flow rate?

I need the lower charge pipe (turbo to IC) from a TGP or TSTE.
Please PM me with any offers.

Thanks!

So what is involved in replacing this badboy?
I'm not sure if the one on our TGP has even been replaced at all in it's entire life. Are they prone to failing? What symptoms do they show when they are failing?

I noticed I was missing a bolt on downpipe bracket. What size of bolt is this?

As the title states.
I just need 1, and it must be in good working shape (ie. ohm reading higher than 12.1).
Needed ASAP, we've gotta get the car out of the garage since were moving in a month.

Please PM me with any offers.

Thanks!

Jess's TGP has developed an odd problem.
Upon starting the motor cold, the idle will slowly creep up to 1500-2000 RPM (sometime it spikes directly up to 2K). It's not a steady idle, it fluctuates on NO pattern up and down a couple 100 RPM while it's idling high. BUT, once the car is put in to gear, it idles fine. Whether it be while driving, or coming to a stop and putting it back in to Park, it idles fine.
It's had this problem off and on for a couple of weeks. The first time we noticed it, the problem wasn't just a high idle in Park, it also wanted to idle higher in any drive gear. I unplugged the battery for about 20 minutes, and then reconnected it, and it started up perfectly fine and the problem didn't come back for another week.
She had to drive an hour and a half on interstate this morning to Salina. When she started it in the morning, it idled high for a while, and then eventually settled back down to a normal idle (around 1K). When she got to Salina she stopped someplace, and then started the car shortly after that to leave, and it idled fine.
It's a real come and go problem, and it's got us baffled as to what the problem is. The IAC valve is only about 6 months old, and the TB passages are clean. The upper intake gaskets are new, as is the TB gasket. The way it fluctuates at idle, it seems like the ECM is having problems. She has a TG160, and we haven't tried putting the stock chip back in to see if that stops the problem.
Anyone got any advice? It's much appreciated.

I did some searching for brake pad recommendations tonight, and came across this old post by Josh..
http://www.netavalanche.com/tgp/viewtopic.php?t=633

It got me thinking.. Has anyone else installed something like this on their TGP? If so, what were the results?
Does the MAP sensor detect the changes in manifold pressure? Is the MAP sensor responsible for telling the ECM to add more fuel when it sees boost? What does the wastegate solinoid control? Just the wastegate and the ECM boost cut? I'm just curious if anything will be affected by unhooking it.


I noticed the maker of the boostvalve had pictures of an install on a Buick GN, which looked to have a similar wastegate control as our cars do (ECM controlled).

I'm just brainstorming right now, thought something like that would be a cool, and cheap little mod to have some fun with. (Safe fun, I'm not gonna crank the boost up any past 12 PSI) :mrgreen:

*Posted on W-body.com too*

White chunks of frozen rain (golfball size) + TGP in driveway = New paint job... AGAIN!  

It wasn't pretty.. nor did it sound pretty. It just happened an hour ago or so. The hood looks like it took the brunt of the damage, while the rest of the car looks alright. A few dents on the top and the trunk, but nothing anywhere near as bad as the ol' Lumina got a few years back.

It took a toll on the vinyl top of the Samurai too..


I got a few Mpeg movies with the digital camera during the storm.. Nevermind the babbling I am doing in the video, I was on the phone at the time. (Videos are about 5mb each)

Video of hail hitting the car:
http://lukez34.com/hostedpics/hail/hail1.MPG

Video of after it slowed down.. notice the few large pieces falling yet:
http://lukez34.com/hostedpics/hail/hail2.MPG

Video of what it sounded like in the garage: (That's my g/f's Black 90 TGP in the garage in case your wondering.)
http://lukez34.com/hostedpics/hail/hail3.MPG

More pictures to come tomorrow when I clean it off and assess the damage some more.

I've noticed for about the past month, that I can feel the PMIII kicking on and off through the brake pedal rather erratically. I was sitting at Sonic last night, and listened and felt for it to see what it was doing. I noticed that without pressing the brake pedal, it runs in short bursts real erratically. I heard it do 2 short bursts within 2 seconds..  But while sitting in the garage at home (before driving the car anywhere), I can press the pedal twice before the pump kicks on, and it runs normally then.
Any ideas what could be causing this? (Aside from it slowly working towards it's death, lol)