LS6 valve springs, or no

GutlessSupreme · August 15, 2006, 09:04:44 AM

LS6 beehive valve springs: $64.95 from Lingenfelter
Comp Valve Locks and Retainers: $90 from 60*V6 Store
GM LS Valve Seats: ??? from GMPD

I dunno. I'm debating whether or not I want to spend the money, and if it'll be worth it. Supposedly our motors have a lot of valve float at high RPMs, and it's worse under boost. Thoughts? I want to drop my heads off at the shop soon but if I'm doing this I want the parts to in with the heads.

mars · August 15, 2006, 09:20:44 PM

I know on my 3400, it was reluctant to rev over 5300 with stock springs at around 10 psi.

With the LS6 ones, it revs to 6300 without a hiccup, at 13 - 14 psi.

GutlessSupreme · August 15, 2006, 09:49:32 PM

good enough for me.

anyone have the part number for the spring seats?

GangstGP · August 16, 2006, 12:07:02 PM

I dont know what part #, but DO IT!!! I remember when they came out with those, it made me want a new hemi. or actually I wanted to build an LS6. Mars, you got beehives on a 3400?

GPChief · August 18, 2006, 10:19:01 PM

I've got a set of the "yellow" LS6 springs for the motor I am building.... :icon_mrgreen:

Spring PN 12499224 - GM Valve Spring Kit- 2001-2004 LS6 Gen III Engine- Set Of 16

Retainer PN 10166344 - GM valve spring retainers for LS1/LS6 valve springs. PN is for a pkg of 4 (i.e. order a qty of 3 to get 12 in total).

dbtk2 · August 19, 2006, 11:27:16 AM

I've got LS6 springs on my STE and my GP GT. On 12psi boost the STE has no valve float, even with my cam, all the way to the rev limiter. (somewhere around 6k) In my GP GT I run ~8.5psi boost and it has no valve float all the way to the 7krpm limiter and thats with .536" lift.

The LS6 has .550" lift and spins to 6500rpm stock so obviously the springs are designed for abuse.

mclaren18psi · August 20, 2006, 10:15:28 PM

hey i have a set of stock ls1 anda set of comp extream double springs good for 700 lift what if any machine work is required to use ls1 springs?

GutlessSupreme · August 21, 2006, 05:56:30 PM

no machine work necessary. Just LSx seats, retainers and locks.

Tooky · August 23, 2006, 05:52:28 PM

I have been trying to install LS1 valve springs in my TGP for months, since I read an article on grandamgt.com with a photo guide of how to do it. http://gaownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=41301

Check out these prices:

10166344 $1.70 Retainers LS1

12565118 $1.75 Valve spring "copper appearing" Seats LS1

12553696 $1.76 Stock LS1 Valve Spring (Part number 12553696 was superceded by part number 12589774.)

Fel Pro SS72685 Viton valve stem seals 3.1L MPFI

My question is, now that I've got the Autozone valve spring compressor rented and all the parts collected (including the spring seat shims that were on GM backorder for a month), can I do this with the engine installed? It looks like the rear ones will be a bitch to get to even with the engine rotated, and the front aluminum motor mount bracket looks like it's going to block access to the valve springs behind it. Any ideas?? I've never done this before, how big a project are we looking at?

Thanks,

Josh

mfewtrail · August 23, 2006, 09:19:46 PM

Josh, what type of of spring compressor did you rent? The bar/lever type might work best for doing them w/ the engine installed. Like this http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/909398_lg.gif Also, do you have a valve holder tool + an air compressor? If not, you're going to need that to do this job w/ the heads installed. The valve holder tool is simply a hose that screws into the spark plug hole of the cylinder you're working on and then you hook your air compressor to it to keep pressure in the cylinder to hold up the valves(you probably already knew this though ;) ).

For the rear, removing the alternator & rotating the engine forward should allow you enough room to get them out. I *think* you should have enough room w/ the aluminum engine mount bracket still in place on the front if you use the bar type compressor...but maybe someone that has changed the springs on-car can chime in and answer that for sure. Also, having a magnetic pickup tool would be a good idea to catch the valve keepers/locks when you remove them.

Tooky · August 24, 2006, 11:13:37 AM

The compressor I got clamps onto the spring coils from above, and then you tighten it down like a screw. I have a spare 3.1 MPFI head laying around and I've practiced on there and it works okay. As for that engine mount up front, I think the fact that our heads have canted valves will actually help, because they are canted in the direction away from the mount. :icon_biggrin:

I don't have compressed air in my garage, but can't I simply rotate the engine to TDC for each cylinder I am working on?

Thanks for your advice, I hope to crack it open today. I'm sure I'll be referring back to this page often!

mfewtrail · August 24, 2006, 08:34:16 PM

Quote from: TookyCat on August 24, 2006, 11:13:37 AM
I don't have compressed air in my garage, but can't I simply rotate the engine to TDC for each cylinder I am working on?

That method will work fine Josh. ;)

Tooky · August 28, 2006, 12:15:42 PM

Well, so far I've got all front 6 springs replaced. I was surprised to find out that there is not enough clearance to remove 1 of the rockers, and not enough clearance to get a socket fully seated on 1 of the rocker nuts when removing/installing it. I was able to work around those, but a big PITA.

Now for the back ones.. My back is already killing me from this job so this oughta really cripple me!! :icon_neutral: Will let you guys know how it turns out. :icon_cool:

dbtk2 · August 30, 2006, 05:39:42 PM

Quote from: TookyCat on August 28, 2006, 12:15:42 PM
Well, so far I've got all front 6 springs replaced. I was surprised to find out that there is not enough clearance to remove 1 of the rockers, and not enough clearance to get a socket fully seated on 1 of the rocker nuts when removing/installing it. I was able to work around those, but a big PITA.

Now for the back ones.. My back is already killing me from this job so this oughta really cripple me!! :icon_neutral: Will let you guys know how it turns out. :icon_cool:

Good luck getting the rear ones off. With that big plenum its pretty difficult to get in there.

Tooky · August 31, 2006, 05:51:44 PM

Quote from: dbtk2 on August 30, 2006, 05:39:42 PM
Good luck getting the rear ones off. With that big plenum its pretty difficult to get in there.

Boy you weren't kidding. Looks like the upper and lower intake manifolds are going to have to come off :( I also found that the LS1 shims don't fit over the rear cylinder head valve guides!!! But they dropped right on the fronts. How could this motor possibly have two different cylinder heads? Well this job has turned out to be a lot bigger than I anticipated. On the bright side I'll get a chance to run the manifolds through a parts washer and clean em up a bit.

:icon_redface: