changing spark plugs and wires

[tyroelite]

How do you guys get to the back 3 spark plugs?  The front don't seem like they will be toooo terribly difficult but I think I can figure them out but the back 3 seem like they are going to be a PITA to get out unless there is some secret I'm missing. Thanks.

[R Dubya]

I buzzed out the alternator and bracket, but I was also doing the PCV valve, planned on the rear valve cover but didn't get around to it.  From what I hear you can just rock the motor forward somehow to access them, but I don't know.

[TGPRobNY]

Removing the alternator to gain access will work fine. Twisting the boots to "break the adhesion" to the plugs will work also , especially if new wires are in order which is always a real good idea. The plugs can be removed with a flex stubby ratchet and a combination of short extensions here and there. I would highly recommend "anti-seize" on the threads and a short piece of rubber hose to insert the plug in the get them started. I like to reverse screw until you feel the click the go clockwise. The rubber extension will allow the length and feel to do it right without the chace of crossthreading. I haven't found it neccessary to move the block foward when doing rear plugs. Good luck, Rob

[turby]

I always pull the alt. off. Also, I unbolt the dogbones but I don't rock the motor forward. It allows the motor to move with me when I start throwing a fit... :lol:

[no1kicker]

I believe pepboys rents an engine tilter that will keep the motor tilted forward and make the job a lot easier.

[maddux31]

here's the way the service manual turbo supplement explains the "rotating engine" for on vehicle service.  put vehicle in neutral, remove intake manifold intake duct, remove air cleaner assembly (if it's still on car), disconnect neg battery cable, remove dogbones to engine bracket bolts and swing dogbones up out of way, replace passenger side dogbone to eng. bracket bolt in the bracket (without the dogbone), now place a pry bar (1/2 inch breaker bar will work) in the same bracket so that it contacts the bracket and the bolt, rotate the whole engine assembly forward by pulling forward on the bar, align the "slave" hole in the driver side dogbone to the eng. bracket hole, retain the engine in this position using the dogbone to eng. bracket bolt.  This gives you about another three inches to work with and believe it or not almost plenty of room to do the tune-up maintenance in the rear bank of the engine.  the rubber piece on the plugs is still a good idea to avoid the crossthreading mentioned above.  good luck

[turby]

There's only problem with that. I haven't seen a dogbone yet that had the slave hole big enough for the bolt to go through. I always use a 1/4" extension when I need the engine tilted.

[maddux31]

both of my cars slave holes have always worked when I've used them for plug maintanence.

[tyroelite]

I got them changed. I kind of made it up as i went along but it ended up quite a lot like how the suplement manual says to do it apparently. I used a screw driver through the engine mount and the slave hole as you call it and it held quite nicely.  Let me just say, outside in november when its 18 degrees isn't the most ideal time to do a swap of plugs and wires!!!  It was deffinately worth it in the end though.  I used stock replacement AC Delco plugs and Autolite Professional 7mm wires and it is amazing how much of a difference there is now!!!  The engine idles correctly, the car's shift points are now correct and smoother, it makes more boost and runs sooo much quicker.  I was extremely happy with results!! Can't wait till i get my K&N on the turbo this week.  :twisted:  :twisted:

[PCarter]

I remove the air cleaner, then loosen the nuts on the dogbones and use a 24" wood clamp (like a Stanley or ViseGrip bar clamp) and use it to take tension off the dogbones then remove the dogbones and I slowly tighten the clamp to get another 4" of clearance to get the rear plugs (Don't overdo it).  Make sure the clamp is secured, else you'll be counting your fingers!  DON'T CLAMP TOO TIGHT OR YOU'LL CRACK YOUR EXHAUST SYSTEM OR MAYBE OTHER ITEMS UNDER STRAIN!!

This may not be the accepted way, but a local garage showed me this tip and it's worked for me the last 2 times I've changed plugs!

I can't emphasize enough on making sure the clamp is secure!!!  It will difinitely hurt if it slips off!!!

[Chris A]

they make a tool for this that I use all the time for different jobs. I'll get a pic of it but it replaces the dog bone and pulls the engine forwar with a threaded rod. It is the RIGHT (but not only effective) way to do it. FWIW, the exhaust will flex at the back of the engine. It uses springs and a donut gasket. Worse could be the donut is worn out but haven't seen one yet. Exhaust isn't under much heat or pressure by that time.

Worst problem is messing up the front motor mount, but its usually flexible enough.

[Tooky]

If you install a larger turbo won't the turbo compressor hit the battery or the A/C bracket plate sitting there?  Anyone have first hand knowledge?