Some answers for ya Jeff M.

[sleeperred90tgp]

Don't remember what post you asked about this stuff or made coments. :icon_redface:

Long post but you still hold the record.  :icon_razz:

Jeff asked,
To help the traction issues, hey Jud, I really need to know, are both of your tires turning/burning the same amount/leaving the same patch on the pavement????

On the street yes. You can go back and sweep the rubber up. I have to back off the  throttle for fear of destroying the tires.

On the strip with my brother driving yes the left wheel was spinning off the line. And squealing like a stuck pig.  I must assume that on the last runs both tires were pulling otherwise I would have lit up the right tire on the runs. Can?t say they are pulling equally because I did get a lot of drift but that could be not being used to how the car would react. Last run I did line up toward the C/L and it went pretty straight. I can just feel the tires braking loose at the end of first when the turbo really comes on.

Jeff said,
Next is squat, taking the weight off the front end/front drive tires, we get that and Jud if you don?t mind a stiff ass backend, I got some drag blocks that will keep your ass up and proud as you launch and go down the track with the weight kept on your front tires much better.

My el-cheapo strut blockers. Takes about 5 min to install around the strut rod although I didn?t install them on the last outing. I guess I am lazy. Thanks for the offer. These work fine. I would say there good for a tenth or more. Brother ran 1.885. Asshole. I couldn't  get that low. And no he didn't leave with the back half. :icon_wink:




Jeff said,
As for the intercooler, actually glad to hear its stock, that means yet another potential for extra power without doing-over the rest of your setup!

Really I think the only way to install a FMC is to get a AC condenser that is shortened 7 or 8?.  About $180.00 with lines. Then if you get a vertical stack IC with the inlets and outlets on the same end it shouldn?t be to bad. I have found a few, that?s why the 2 ? piping. Just haven?t wanted to spend the near 800.00 for all the stuff.

You had asked about TB's on another post.  Well I have been through about a dozen all gm so the TPS and the IAC would be bolt on.  They are the same  up to 2002. After that I don't know. As you know the bigger (newer)ones don't have the TV(kick down linkage)  there in lies the problem. I have had several TB's on this engine and have always had to weld or bolt an arm on for that linkege. I have even had to rotate the linkage( (entire package by grinding the shaft off and relocating to the proper degree and welding it back on. I don't think you will find a TB big enough to support your goals without  either fabing the front end of a manifold to except whatever you chose or going to the 3400 swap and a 5000 manifold and moving the linkage and cables. You will have to get a later  model throttle cable. I think the hole in the firewall is the same up to 2002 so the cable will lock in.

I cut the front end off of a 3400 manifold and bought  a I think LT 1 TB (twin 58mm) I abandon it after running across the 72mm TB. It?s one big sucker.  Bought them off of ebay. The biggest one that I could combo together was the 3500 manifold  and the Chevy 5.7 Suv Tb (72mm) and with a little grinding on a 3500 manifold it will work. You will have to make an adapter to make it fit to the manifold. I used 1/2 phonlic. I also put ? phonlic spacers under the UIM to insure clearance on the waste gate. It just clears with a 2 ? intake pipe. Standard intake pipe would be no problem.

[mfewtrail]

Just wanted to bring this back to the top to say a few things....

I made some strut blockers like Jud has above a while back and was playing around with them today installed in my '93 GP. I believe Jud stated in a pm we exhanged that his blockers were about 6.5'' in length. Anyways, I made a few sets in the following lengths: 6.5'', 7'', 7 3/4''.  The entire travel of the strut rods to the upper portion of the strut mount that these butt up against was about 8 1/4''so I was trying to really limit the travel with the longer 7 3/4'' ones. I installed the 7 3/4'' blockers today and actually drove the car down the street. I think these might be a tad too long because they seemed to make the front end raise up and feel kinda bouncy. With the long blockers in the car, my SE  only chirped the tires at WOT and actually took off pretty hard despite the front end seeming to have gotten raised up a tad. Usually on the street in front of my house it will spin the tires a few feet.  I think the 6.5''-7'' length would probably be about best to run at the track, but I guess I'll track test them soon(on the TGP) before I rule out a certain length being better than the others. I think my TGP will benefit a ton with them compared to my SE...the NA 3.1 in my SE is barely strong enough to spin the tires and lift the front end much anyways... :icon_redface:

PS: If anyone makes these and rides down the road with them in, make sure it's a road in nice shape, my car rode rough as hell and I thought I was going to need two new kidneys when I hit a few small dips in the road. :laugh:

Picture of them in, got wheel gap? lol

http://home.alltel.net/mfewtrail/images/SE_blockers.jpg