WM3 bleeding question

[god910]

Okay, I know there is a tutorial on HOW to bleed the Walletcrusher3.  But my question is when to do it.  I had to take the caliper off and lost a bit of fluid, but at what point does it get so low to get air in the m/c?  Also, I'm a bit cornfused about the refill procedure of the crashmaster3.  While needing to bleed the damn thing, should I pump the pedal 40 times?  I'm afraid I might get air in the m/c.  I have decent fluid, but I get no pedal stiffness (Not that I ever had a decent pedal, but now it just not there.)  So, do I just say screw it, pump the pedal to empty the acc. then check fluid?  I am SUPPOSED to have this thing up and running by sat. for the drap strip.  (MAN ASAP I am going to VAC. brakes.)  They are simply astounding.  My new TGP has them and it's just plain awesome.  Suggestions anyone?

[turby]

You don't have to pump 40 times. Just pump it until the pedal gets real stiff. Then check the fluid.  I doubt you got any air in the m/c or lines if the caliper wasn't off very long. How much fluid came out?

[god910]

If I had to guess, I would say 5-6 ounces or so.  But you never know because fluid spreads quick like when it hits pavement.  Like 4 drops of diff. fluid can make a spot about 9" in diameter on the cement.  So, once I thought, "OH SHIT, I DON'T WANT TO HAVE TO BLEED THIS STUPID ASS SHITCRAPPER III!!!!"  I hung the line so no fluid would come out.  Problem is, I don't know if the pedal will EVER get stiff, because of the fluid loss.

[turby]

I bled my brakes 3 or 4 times after replacing the m/c trying to get a good stiff pedal. Got it semi stiff and gave up on it.

My 89 SE with vacuum brakes is a different story. Last winter I replaced all the rotors, calipers and pads. Did the 94+ brakes on the back too. Bled them twice and the pedal moved about 1/2" and the car stopped. It still has a pretty stiff pedal.