Dyno question

Started by tyroelite, April 14, 2005, 03:50:55 PM

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tyroelite

I'm taking the TGP to a dyno meet this weekend but I'm not exactly sure I know the proper testing procedure.  Could someone who has done it before walk me through it?  LIke what gear should it be in, particular RPM level or speed or whatever?  Anything else or tips I should know? I'm thinking i might take some ice and put it on the intercooler for one of the runs if that is worth while... who knows.  Thanks for the help/tips.

Invasion1

I would hope they (guys that have the dyno) would give you some instruction on this........ :?

z284pwr

Quote from: Invasion1I would hope they (guys that have the dyno) would give you some instruction on this........ :?

I'm sure they will, I'm guessing he wants some info before hand so when he goes there he will have an idea of what going on and not totally lost.

dbtk2

Well, I can tell you that intercooler heat soak is a huge problem.  After the first pull power levels will drop off a good amount, or at least thats what I've found.  Put it in 2nd gear (unless you want to do a high speed pull) and get up to about 35 or so and go WOT.  If you want to get a good reading throughout the whole powerband you can pull the tv cable off the tb and just go from whenever it shifts into 2nd, then you don't have to worry about it downshift.  However, I don't do that.  I just go to about 35 or so, go WOT and hold your foot in it.  I would try to let out just before the limiter if you can, however I hit the limiter when I did my pulls, although it may not be a good idea.  Other than that there is really nothing to it, pull it on the dyno and do as they say.  

Shawn
90 Maroon GP STE 3.1 I/C Turbo - SOLD!  :(
14.695 @ 94.49 w/2.228 60'
99 Green GP GT
9.75:1|K&N|160 tstat|no cat/ubend/res|ALT UD|Shift Kit|XPZ cam|Ported M90/TB/LIM/Heads|Powertuned|Pacesetters|42lb/hr|Stg 2 I/C|MPS|2.45"|ELEC WP|Zex 75/100/125|Walbro|ZZP IS|15/16"|AR103|Rollmaster|8 rib|MLS .052|ARP Head Studs|Billet FP|Alum Cradle
11.9912 @ 112.99 w/1.729 60', 347whp/417wtq on 93 octane/mustang dyno.

tyroelite

Thanks guys.  I'll see what I can do with it.  I know this shop sends digital pritnouts of the results so I'll have them posted before too long. I'm lookin' forward to this almost as much as getting to the track!

god910

2nd gear will give you a skewed reading won't it?  Don't you have to be in 3rd (or whatever your direct drive is)?
1990 Turbo Grand Prix Black Sunshine
282 5 speed, Custom Chip, 1G DSM BOV, K&N on turbo, Centerforce Clutch, Accel 8.8 Wires, no kat, straight exhaust, TB bypass (200HP), Jeff-M cro$$over ;)
Jay Warfel
Muncie, IN
2nd TGP "TestBed" 90, Black JeffM TG160 & X-over, ractive filter, 15.21 @ 90 mph
2003 Sonic Yellow Subaru Impreza WRX  Turbo XS Stage 3
Perrin GT35R, 2.5 STi Block, JDM 6 speed swap underway.
Goal: 450 AWHP, mid 11's.

mfewtrail

#6
Quote from: god9102nd gear will give you a skewed reading won't it?  Don't you have to be in 3rd (or whatever your direct drive is)?

The guys at clubgp dyno in 2nd or 3rd and "Intense" had something on there website about there being like a 1% or so difference in the numbers they got in either gear.  Most over there dyno in 2nd so they won't have to run so fast on the dyno/stress their cars for a longer period of time.  I would like to hear some other opinions on that as I want to dyno my TGP soon.
'93 SE, '90 Black/tan TGP, & '90 Red/tan TGP

god910

Now that I think about it, most dyno's can be setup for either, but they have to know what the ratios are (IIRC) becaue w/o a 1:1 ratio you would be getting torque mult. and the #'s would be off.  But I think that can be adjusted for.
1990 Turbo Grand Prix Black Sunshine
282 5 speed, Custom Chip, 1G DSM BOV, K&N on turbo, Centerforce Clutch, Accel 8.8 Wires, no kat, straight exhaust, TB bypass (200HP), Jeff-M cro$$over ;)
Jay Warfel
Muncie, IN
2nd TGP "TestBed" 90, Black JeffM TG160 & X-over, ractive filter, 15.21 @ 90 mph
2003 Sonic Yellow Subaru Impreza WRX  Turbo XS Stage 3
Perrin GT35R, 2.5 STi Block, JDM 6 speed swap underway.
Goal: 450 AWHP, mid 11's.

Jeff M

Quote from: god910Now that I think about it, most dyno's can be setup for either, but they have to know what the ratios are (IIRC) becaue w/o a 1:1 ratio you would be getting torque mult. and the #'s would be off.  But I think that can be adjusted for.

That would be my take on it too!!

Jeff M

90TGP

Most dynoshops have large powerful fans they put infront of the car to keep them cool.

Jeff M

And those would be the better shops that use fans!!!!!  Too often you see them with some carpet dryer type fan, lame but at least something, but there are a lot of differences with little fans like this and even pretty big fans verses what happens when you accelerate on the road or at the track!! :shock:   Seen some article written by Dinan showing how their tuned engines produce 600 hp with full blown air simulation, then 550 with typical fans, and 500 with no fans :shock:   Then there are variations between like dynos and a lot of differences between the different types of wheel dynos.  Not to discourage you but to warn you that if your numbers don't make you happy, don't sweat it!!

Also pick the best day, low temp and low humidity.  Don't bring your hot ass heat soaked engine right off the road into the dyno shop and run it, let it cool with the hood open.  ALSO chips have a safety feature that limits full power until the engine is above a certain temp, even then it takes a quick few hits on the gas pedal before it will allow full timing and boost!!  I would bring it in cool as you can get it, set it up, start it up and do a little pull on it (2 short stab into boost, not a long one!!) to get it a little temperature acclimated, and the chip happy so your next full pull will be more representative of the engine's potential.  Ice bags on the upper intake, water sprayed on the intercooler, air filter off/intake hose instead ran outside of the engine bay, a host of things you can do to get better numbers/few extra ponies 8) .

Good luck!

Jeff M

tyroelite

Well, we went to the dyno this past weekend but it broke.... wasted 3 hr drive.  But the shop did give everyone at the meet a free pass to come back.  I'd recommend the shop to anyone, meet prices are $40 for 4 pulls w/ wideband O2.  I'll get the name of it shortly... its in Lancaster, PA. People there were friendly and helpful.  Can't do much about a software problem... not their fault.

z284pwr

oh wow, 3 hour drive to get there, your spark plugs will be all "glazed."  That will hurt your power somewhat as well, it makes a difference in E.T. so i'm sure its affecting your HP.  You may want to leave an extra hour early to let the car cool down somewhat and do what Jeff said and do a few short boost pulls to get the car ready

Jeff M

Quote from: tyroeliteWell, we went to the dyno this past weekend but it broke.... wasted 3 hr drive.  But the shop did give everyone at the meet a free pass to come back.  I'd recommend the shop to anyone, meet prices are $40 for 4 pulls w/ wideband O2.  I'll get the name of it shortly... its in Lancaster, PA. People there were friendly and helpful.  Can't do much about a software problem... not their fault.

Now that is the way I take care of people, do it proper or don't bother :twisted:   And good when people don't go off the handle just because shit happens 8) , the guys are more than trying to make up for it and that is some awesome "making up for it"  :D So I am with you, great guys and would go there again, maybe give them your cel phone number though just in case :lol: .  Now only thing with a wideband that goes into the end of the exhaust pipe is it gets a false reading from the cat changing the exhaust mix, unless they have ways to compensate, if they are slick they will have a wideband o2 system with an extra 0-1 volt output to feed your puter when they stick their wideband o2 sensor in the original o2 hole in the turbo, though back pressure messes up these readings too since these are pumping cel wideband o2s, man all this info, why you never hear about it as often as you should :roll:

Jeff M

tyroelite

Quote from: z284pwroh wow, 3 hour drive to get there, your spark plugs will be all "glazed."  That will hurt your power somewhat as well, it makes a difference in E.T. so i'm sure its affecting your HP.  You may want to leave an extra hour early to let the car cool down somewhat and do what Jeff said and do a few short boost pulls to get the car ready


heh, no problem there... we got there at about 1 o'clock and were 20th on the list... we had more than enough time to let the cars sit before the pulls.