Bad hesitation off idle?

z284pwr · April 26, 2005, 10:19:55 PM

After finally getting the exhaust done in hopes it would fix the problem, still having this problem....Off idle, to WOT the car hesitates pretty badly, ha, real bad before finally gettin going then up to about 2500 when it hits the fan.....Here is a little info to help possibly remove some possibilities
Built "3.2* Engine, basically custom everything, FAR from stock...
Jeff M Crossover and TopGun 160 Chip
All new sensors, new AC-Delco Plugs and new wires
New Full 2.5" exhaust all the way back

Some more info would include, the car is running rather rich, black 02 Sesnor, ~15 MPG all city driving basically, bad throttle response off idle under no load, hesitates badly off idle WOT, terrible bottom end till 2500, brake torque to ~2000 still doesn't produce boost, and terrible response off brake torque till about 2500 as well.

We are lost on what to try next, we are probably going to try new Coils and/or Injectors, *possibly leaking?*
If this sounds right or anyone has any other ideas/suggestions, please feel free to offer them....

GangstGP · April 26, 2005, 10:52:20 PM

first things first when you get these symptoms, pull the front three plugs and measure the gap so we can rule them out.
I know they are new but use a feeler gauge on them and let us know so we can go from there.

z284pwr · April 26, 2005, 11:14:24 PM

Quote from: GP Apefirst things first when you get these symptoms, pull the front three plugs and measure the gap so we can rule them out.
I know they are new but use a feeler gauge on them and let us know so we can go from there.

.045 all around, all look good and no rounded edges or signs of anything bad there

GangstGP · April 26, 2005, 11:56:03 PM

Lemme ask you this. How well are your cruise control and heater vents working? And do you get any trouble lights or SES light?

z284pwr · April 27, 2005, 12:51:53 AM

Umm, cruise control? Who knows now, before it didn't work very well at all, it would drop ~10-15 MPH before picking up and getting right. Now, we just had the PMIII out and toying with the brake/cruise switch under the dash, so I'm sure its all out of wack now....

I'm guessing you ask this because your thinking vacuum leaks?

Oh yeah, heater vents "seem" to work just fine, not that the car has much of a heater and the AC works fine and dandy even with the AC Condensor mod

GangstGP · April 27, 2005, 01:23:22 AM

just wondering because my cruise and heater vents do not work when there was vacuum leaks everywhere under the hood, and also the boost and operation of the motor is twacked also.
I just found that if you flare all the vacuum couplings with a bead of jb weld applied with a toothpick on the plastic tubes and let it dry before putting it back together. it just takes a thin bead to flare it.

TGPRobNY · April 27, 2005, 06:22:45 AM

Replace your coil pack...will make a huge difference. Not an easy job.

god910 · April 27, 2005, 07:17:59 AM

First of all, .045 is too big of a gap for a TG160 chip. I'd knock down the gap .010 to be safe. W/ all that fancy custom stuff do you have $50 left over to buy a cable and log the darn thing? It could be: coils, IGN Mod., plugs, wires, TPS, vacuum, CTS, injectors, FPR, muffler bearing, rotary girter, etc... And I don't care if they are all new. I work in manufacturing, you can't rule out a new part :lol:

If you have the means, a cable could be your best friend in this situation. If not, we'll help get you through it. :D Hang in there, it'll be worth it. It's making you work for it's love.

Jeff M · April 27, 2005, 09:26:31 AM

Those that buy my chips get the 9 page install packet that some have called the FixAll (same with the TopGun chip that they named), other than a lot of very key items to check to make things run proper now and in the future, spark plugs and upgrades are discussed, along with it stated to close the gap to .040" from the stock .045" 8) Yes I would be looking at the ignition module and coil packs, ebay has these new at times for super cheap/dealer take-offs. Since you have black plugs I would ask if the center electrode ceramic is black???...if yes then for sure too rich, if just the surrounding metal of the plug then not that much of a concern. Also confirm good vacuum lines as it was said as well good engine grounds. Don't forget to test the FPR!!!, pull off the hose to it, slap on another short piece of rubber hose and suck on it!!!!..hold a vacuum then good, does not hold a vacuum, then since you did mods who knows beyond 3.2L then you should at least get new injectors with the new FPR. Last is how good the gas is, old or not enough get her fixed, new fuel filter if more than 60K on the car and if more than 150k then new fuel pump also, got to fee the beast 8).

Jeff M

TurboGTU · July 17, 2005, 02:43:49 AM

Check fuse links around strut tower on drivers side. They are for the fuel pump and ECM if you haven't done so.

z284pwr · July 17, 2005, 02:59:01 AM

oh wow, lost 2 months worth of stuff, joy.....

This damn car is such a PITA i have decided.....

Brake light switch decided to melt itself and die, so that side tracks thing, now its really messing with my head.....

Hmm, where to begin, speedo is still all waked out....it has read upwards of 120 or so doing 35 getting on the highway, while the HUD reads just fine.... :shock:
oh, and this is really nice, now the cars like to have attitude problems. Some days, it will run just fine, like nothing is wrong at all, like a normal car, others, it won't kill and die out, but it will shudder on top end in 2nd and 3rd gear, then other days it will kill miss and die like it has just once and run fine, and then others it will kill die miss four or five times on and really have an ugly experience driving...wow, this is wonderful.... :x :x :x :roll: :evil: :x :?: :!: :?: :idea: :?: :!: :idea:

GangstGP · July 17, 2005, 12:18:30 PM

Have fun with the brake light sewitch. I have not burned mine out since I got LED taillight replacements . Cost me 60 bucks at Autozone.

Jeff M · July 17, 2005, 09:23:42 PM

A little starting from scratch since it?s been so long. All that you describe sends me down this path; Weak ignition module and maybe coils/wires. Low ohm injector(s), loose/corroded grounds at the battery and/or block up front and/or at the ECM grounds back by the crank sensor (do the crank sensor just because everyone knows it?s a part to fix now!!!). Alternator doing whacky things such as AC volts (like the guy here that mentioned that one, and the Wells Counter Point Subscription I have with over-details on this). Low ohm injectors and age can also take out the ECM, making for these wild other problems, though with such electrical problems I tend to wonder what crap the previous owner did that might be causing this. Other odd issues that mess up the 5 volt signal to the sensors and controlled devices that are tricky to track down. Maybe even a shorted engine mount, the one under the crank pulley, taking an ohm reading from the engine to sub-frame to check this, should be around 150 ohms and up, less or near zero is at least one issue to resolve before final results will happen from other repairs. Brake light switch has been shown to cause stalling when coming to a stop, when the brakes are applied, that does not happen/stall, when coming to a stop without the brakes (coasting), something again that should be fixed before expecting other fixes to be the one(s) that are causing the problems.

Jeff M

z284pwr · July 17, 2005, 10:12:09 PM

Thanks for the info Jeff, since we lost all the other posts, here is some info I guess isn't available anymore...

The injectors are all brand new from the box. The brake light switch has been replaced and working just fine. I should throw up pictures of the old one, haha....

Anyways, grounds at the battery are brand new, all the battery cables are brand new, the ones down on the block were cleaned up and are basically new as well. The alternator was checked and passed okay, but no I'm not saying that isn't causing it.

The previous owner had all the work done at a dealership, however there are some questions about the car's history so who knows?

What is with the shorted engine mount thing though? Thats confusing. I will mention that the mount down there you mention was replaced when we did the engine swap, but we can still give it a looksy....

GangstGP · July 17, 2005, 11:43:34 PM

Yea some of that stuff is pretty funny Jeff I have to admit. :lol: like the ac volts. At least you can get the cs-130 D alt to fab up to our car now. But since we are on the subject of brake light switch any body else tried these LED brake light bulb replacements. They use way less power.