need help interpreting OTC scan

[twinturbosedan]

ok so my brother just got an OTC 4000E scanner on ebay and it included the cables and software i needed for my car.  so i decided to mess around with it today...

idle:

idle RPM - fluctuating between 600-800 RPM mostly, sometimes as low as 500-something and as high as 900-something RPM
IAC - 34ish
MAP - .66 - .79v
IPW - .9 - 1.1
spark advance - fluctuating between 13 - 20
BLM- 125
integrator - 113
throttle angle - 000
TPS - .62v

i couldn't really check it out on a WOT run since i was by myself, but i DID notice that i was getting 8-10 degrees of knock retard and IPW went as high as 15 at WOT.  i'm totally new to this so i'm not sure what all of this means.  all i know is i'm going to turn the boost down due to the KR.  can anyone tell me what the 'normal' values should be at idle...does mine seem way off?  i still have no idea why the idle is so wierd.  i can't seem to get it to hold a steady RPM in neutral until RPM is higher than 2000ish.

[twinturbosedan]

well i decided to put Kenny's chip back in before i lowered the boost.  several WOT pulls in 3rd again and the most KR i seen was 7 degrees, highest IPW i seen @ WOT was 15.4.  idle is now alot more steady between 950-1000 RPM.  BLM at idle is 128 with INT at 118ish.  IAC is a little higher than before.  spark advance was alot more steady at around 17-18.  IPW at idle is now .8 - .9

for some reason the RPM likes to flare up alot when i shift, and the RPM will fluctuate between 1500 - 1800 in neutral while moving.  annoying as hell.  i don't know if it's the chip or part of the idle relearn procedure (i disconnected the battery when swapping memcal's of course).  it's like it just doesn't know how to idle unless the car is stopped.

i searched for a vacuum leak by spraying brakleen around various places.  if i spray it at the EGR valve the car will almost die.  is this normal?  i'm not too keen on EGR valve operation....shouldn't it be completely closed at idle?

[TurboGTU]

THeres a filter on the EGR under the round black plastic cylinder. If you remove it..there should be a port there. Put your finger on there and spray again. Idle shouldn't change. If it does...your EGR diaphram is torn or leaky gasket.

This port stays open when EGR is off. Don't worry..it has a check valve built in to keep boost from leaking...well you might want to blow on the other hose to check if the check valve is working.


If for some reason in the past..you had messed with the throttle body adjustment screw...this can also cause this problem. A slightly open throttle will expose the EGR port and suck more air into the engine..as where when its almost closed...it blocks off the EGR port in the TB. THe ECM for some reason doen't like open TBs. It has to do with the idle fuel, IAC tables, and EGR tables.

The high idle driving could be a missajusted spedo setting or sticking IAC or programming to save the engien from stalling? ?. Did it do this with your memcal?

[TurboGTU]

Oh yea...also check your Evap hoses and selinoid. I had mine torn when it deteriated.

[TGPilot]

BLM = 125
INT = 113 means your ECM thinks you are rich.

With the higher numbers with my chip you are leaning out towards a good A/F ratio. Those are the numbers I would get all the time before I changed my injectors. Now she holds perfect most of the time around 128-130 BLM and INT will fluctuate slightly depending on load.

The only time my idle "runs away" is when my A/C or Defrost is on. It adds steps to the IAC to avoid bogging or stalling both for the A/C pump load (adds IAC steps for A/C pump and also for the fans). I have made many more changes to my chip since I sent you that one. Do you have a burner yet? I can send you my current .bin. Is that the RPM you see in the datalogger or on your dash?

One problem with the 5-speed is the noise it is transmitting to the block and into the knock sensor. I have normally seen 5-7* of KR. I have lowered boost...still there. I have changed timing...still there. I have added and removed fuel...still there. I see some knock in the TSTE with Jeff's chip that came in the car and the chip I have programmed for it at the same RPM's and load as the TGP but much much less. In the chip it will begin to retard boost when it sees greater than 8* KR and return full boost when it drops back to less than 4* KR. That can be raised but it will not effect you any with a manual boost controller. It does not change the amount of fuel delivered when KR is sensed.

If you want a copy of the chip I am currently running let me know and I will get it to you. Adam (flybynite) fixed the Intercooler Fan on/off settings as well as the Rad fan on/off settings. Was a minor omission in the xdf we were using before. He has helped me MASSIVELY with teaching me tuning again. Amazing how much you forget in a few years of not tuning a specific chip layout.

Check to see if your A/C pump is running or if the climate control switch (A/C settings or Defrost select) is shorted trying to tell the A/C to turn on. That is the only time my idle stays high. I need to work that area of the chip to correct for much higher idles for A/C on...it drives me bonkers also when my A/C is on and I pull up to a stoplight at 1300RPM! :icon_evil:

[twinturbosedan]

THeres a filter on the EGR under the round black plastic cylinder. If you remove it..there should be a port there. Put your finger on there and spray again. Idle shouldn't change. If it does...your EGR diaphram is torn or leaky gasket.

This port stays open when EGR is off. Don't worry..it has a check valve built in to keep boost from leaking...well you might want to blow on the other hose to check if the check valve is working.


If for some reason in the past..you had messed with the throttle body adjustment screw...this can also cause this problem. A slightly open throttle will expose the EGR port and suck more air into the engine..as where when its almost closed...it blocks off the EGR port in the TB. THe ECM for some reason doen't like open TBs. It has to do with the idle fuel, IAC tables, and EGR tables.

The high idle driving could be a missajusted spedo setting or sticking IAC or programming to save the engien from stalling? ?. Did it do this with your memcal?

acually the speedo is very accurate with Kenny's chip in the car.  the other chip i have (from god910) made the speedo read ~27% too slow.  i never have messed with the throttle stop screw and my scanner is showing 000 for throttle angle.  the IAC numbers are all over the place depending on engine load but pretty steady 34 at idle.  i wasn't seeing any leaks around the canister purge solenoid with the spray test and i have the vacuum line ziptied there too.

[TGPilot]

On my current chip (not what you have Josh) the allow idle fuel, timing, and IAC counts are set to 50 MPH. Much different. I have pretty much killed the throttle follower settings also.

Luke drove my car last weekend when he was here and I am pretty sure he was impressed all the way around with the way the car pulled and drove. :icon_cool:

[twinturbosedan]

BLM = 125
INT = 113 means your ECM thinks you are rich.

With the higher numbers with my chip you are leaning out towards a good A/F ratio. Those are the numbers I would get all the time before I changed my injectors. Now she holds perfect most of the time around 128-130 BLM and INT will fluctuate slightly depending on load.

The only time my idle "runs away" is when my A/C or Defrost is on. It adds steps to the IAC to avoid bogging or stalling both for the A/C pump load (adds IAC steps for A/C pump and also for the fans). I have made many more changes to my chip since I sent you that one. Do you have a burner yet? I can send you my current .bin. Is that the RPM you see in the datalogger or on your dash?

One problem with the 5-speed is the noise it is transmitting to the block and into the knock sensor. I have normally seen 5-7* of KR. I have lowered boost...still there. I have changed timing...still there. I have added and removed fuel...still there. I see some knock in the TSTE with Jeff's chip that came in the car and the chip I have programmed for it at the same RPM's and load as the TGP but much much less. In the chip it will begin to retard boost when it sees greater than 8* KR and return full boost when it drops back to less than 4* KR. That can be raised but it will not effect you any with a manual boost controller. It does not change the amount of fuel delivered when KR is sensed.

If you want a copy of the chip I am currently running let me know and I will get it to you. Adam (flybynite) fixed the Intercooler Fan on/off settings as well as the Rad fan on/off settings. Was a minor omission in the xdf we were using before. He has helped me MASSIVELY with teaching me tuning again. Amazing how much you forget in a few years of not tuning a specific chip layout.

Check to see if your A/C pump is running or if the climate control switch (A/C settings or Defrost select) is shorted trying to tell the A/C to turn on. That is the only time my idle stays high. I need to work that area of the chip to correct for much higher idles for A/C on...it drives me bonkers also when my A/C is on and I pull up to a stoplight at 1300RPM! :icon_evil:

i'm pretty sure the injectors are alright in this car.  they all tested ~12.8 ohms a few months ago anyway.  AC is off (i removed all of it) and the scanner shows no AC request.  defrost is off as well.  i haven't messed with it much in the past couple days but i'm going to try out the TGP wastegate solenoid i have.  i'm also going to see if the idle returns to "normal" to rule out any idle relearn it might be doing.  it's still revving up when i shift and surging ~1500 - 1800 RPM when i put the clutch in and coast...then comes down to 975 RPM when i come to a stop.  it also idles up high when i start the car and then settles down to about 975 RPM after a few seconds.

still don't have a burner or even a PC for that matter :icon_confused:  lately all of my money has been going to the TSTE.

[TGPilot]

Mine will do that if the A/C is on. If not it will drop to 1000RPM as soon as you push in the clutch or put her in neutral.

My injectors ohm'd in range...but as soon as I put in the new ones it was a different beast. Much better throttle response, no longer miserably failing emissions, better load pull under boost. I never messed with them after they came out but I am sure a couple were leaking.