Fuel injectors

[Jeff M]

Skalor, know that there is a parameter in the chip that stops you from trying to build a lot of boost when the vehicle is not moving, if you take a look at your timing when the black smoke is pouring out the back you will note timing takes a huge dive!!  Aside from this saving the tranny, it mainly saves the TC from the extreme heat when brake torquing.  I have seen some pics of burned off paint, bright blue metal bulging TC, that were cooked from too much BT, ouch so just that info.  NOW, at the other end of necessity, that being a good launch/60 ft time, I had a guy testing a race chip down in hot Arizona and not only did he run a corrected 13.56, he was running drag radials, and with that combo, found he did not need so much boost (as to initiate this rich belching smoke during brake torque) to get a great launch so, even he was able to build just enough boost to avoid building a lot of heat, kicking in the drop in timing/black smoke, but ran some great 60 ft and et times.  Just wanted you to know this feature was not going to rob you of you need for speed :twisted: .  BTW, his 60 ft were 2.0 every pass, nice and consistant!!

Jeff M

[idbeast]

In reply to John Jackson the ACDelco part #17086651... is taken right off the empty injector box setting on my computer desk, alomg with many other part boxes!!!
And as for other others asking about the injector style I've replaced the injector in my red 89 almost 4 years ago, the ones in my black 90 2 years ago, and my 1st white TSTE a year ago and none of them are leaking!!  :shock:  :crazyeyes:  :shocked!:

[skalor]

Skalor, know that there is a parameter in the chip that stops you from trying to build a lot of boost when the vehicle is not moving, if you take a look at your timing when the black smoke is pouring out the back you will note timing takes a huge dive!!  Aside from this saving the tranny, it mainly saves the TC from the extreme heat when brake torquing.  I have seen some pics of burned off paint, bright blue metal bulging TC, that were cooked from too much BT, ouch so just that info.  NOW, at the other end of necessity, that being a good launch/60 ft time, I had a guy testing a race chip down in hot Arizona and not only did he run a corrected 13.56, he was running drag radials, and with that combo, found he did not need so much boost (as to initiate this rich belching smoke during brake torque) to get a great launch so, even he was able to build just enough boost to avoid building a lot of heat, kicking in the drop in timing/black smoke, but ran some great 60 ft and et times.  Just wanted you to know this feature was not going to rob you of you need for speed :twisted: .  BTW, his 60 ft were 2.0 every pass, nice and consistant!!

Jeff M

It's amazes me more and more the amount of engine management that GM was able to put into these cars.  I mean this computer has more parameters that most aftermarket units.  

I don't think that I'm building that much boost on the line...I don't recall, but I think I was launching around 2000 rpm according to my tach, which is probably way off.  I was able to launch higher, but I would just spin.  At around 2000 rpm I would get a small chirp and would be off. My car smokes while I'm driving it as well.  I've even had someone else drive my car while I drive behind them.  I'm going to try GM TopEnd Cleaner first to see if that helps the situation.  In the summer I ran a consistent 2.2 on every pass, but that was with Kumho Ecstas which are notorious for not being very sticky.  I think that with some sticker tires, that I could easily get 2.1s if not 2.0s. I was also considering getting a small fan to mount to the factory tranny cooler to make sure the tranny fluid stays consistant while in the staging lanes.  Heat is the enemy and I'm going to try to avoid him at all costs :)

[TGPilot]

In reply to John Jackson the ACDelco part #17086651... is taken right off the empty injector box setting on my computer desk, alomg with many other part boxes!!!
And as for other others asking about the injector style I've replaced the injector in my red 89 almost 4 years ago, the ones in my black 90 2 years ago, and my 1st white TSTE a year ago and none of them are leaking!!  :shock:  :crazyeyes:  :shocked!:

ok...as said by you a few times...Jeff has the best prices on the TGP GM injectors. For those folks on this board who would be interested in purchasing injectors from you guys....ummm I mean Jeff...how much do they cost?

[Jeff M]

Skalor  Yea, when I hear of guys wanting to spend big bucks on a Greddy or Blitz (nice units) boost controller I cringe, there is more things in the chip?s boost control then any aftermarket has today, (except dual boost level at a flip of the switch) even though some of it we don?t like (that black smoke at BT) at least changes can be made.  I have an HKS boost controller for my Typhoon (T69 turbo) that is such a challenge to self/program and I still don?t think it does a good job, and what a pain to understand the manual, besides the Japanese interpretation of explaining in English, very different outside of just them trying to understand our words, other HKS owners have had more challenges than they expected or thought needed for such a piece.  

Anyways, so you ran the Kumhos V700? I am glad to hear you tell us how they worked out for you (sorry for you!) as I have been watching out for a tire that hooks and lasts a while on the street, and an excellent magazine that I really enjoy is Sport Compact Car, I don?t care if there is little for American cars, lots of stuff relates, and their latest issue covers all drag/competition tires, might want to snag it, its not a test/bummer but all info is good.  I do like the user feedback at Tire Rack and Discount Tire, and 1010Tires (small but coming up, and they are the only ones to show discounted Toyo tires) but at this time it looks like the best tire might be the Toyo Proxes RA-1.  8/32 inch tread so there is some road life to it before bald, not as awesome looking tread as like a Yoko A032R but lots of rubber real estate, and enough grooves to allow you to get home when it rains, only a 40 treadwear rating so maybe 10 to 15K miles if not used for other than spanking, but enough stick to be worth a try, will let people know how it works out.  How old are your Kumos?  I know you know age hardens them too fast but just wanting more info.  From the racing I did with a tranny temp gauge in the outlet line from the tranny, its surprising that the temps where not that high with normal road use and a lot of acceleration tests (verse auto-cross driving).  My digital temp read 180 most the time (160 thermostat for engine coolant, does help along with aux cooler) with a few spikes to low 190s, but did not stay there that long, and I was doing quite a few hard acceleration runs testing some things.

As for smoking, maybe your FPR is starting to leak allowing the fuel pressure to be just slightly higher than is needs during idle and cruise?  Pulling the o2 sensor allows you to determine if smoke is from the engine or the turbo, its after one and before the other, thank the car gods, nice tool for that!!

Jeff M

[Jeff M]

Skalor, an update.  Not to say you have not hear of this, or did not do it but those Kumos, and other comp tires need to be up to operating temp to put our thier goods, my book say 140 degrees so, heating them up after dripping out of the wet-box should get them as sticky as they are going to get, like most tires, just we would like a comp tire to always be ready  :)   I remember doing a movie, Terror from the Tarmac Part I, during some big smokey burn-outs, the Goodyear GS-C I was running started to get hot enough I could not get them to burn any more, but got some awesome launches, so had to let them cool to get back the smoking effect we wanted  :twisted: .

Later
Jeff M

[1trucavalier]

Well my accels are in and they fit perfectly.  I finally found another bolt to fit the oil p drive seal that disappeared into thin air.  I will have the car fired up this saturday.

[TGPilot]

Please let us know the end result of your new injectors... 8)

[bwawuz02]

http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~dzug/89iroc/pics/injswap/inj-swap.html

scroll to the bottom of the page, might be useful to those of you wondering about the ford injectors.

[1trucavalier]

My injectors have been in now for maybe 1 1/2 mos without problem.  I found out the same thing they said about the "appearance" of the injector not going all the way down into the hole.  The o-ring does totally seal the hole so no gas will escape and the end of the injector is longer and sits farther down in the intake manifold.  as said by Jeff M that the tgp stock chip values make the car run extremely rich (overly) which could possibley esplain why the cars kick out that black smoke when you punch it.  You would think the 24Lb would be to much for the stock chip but my car runs great.

[Mark Brownfield]

Sorry I haven't posted much lately...school sucks this semester.  Now I know why my advisor looked at me funny when he said "you realize nine of these hours are thermo based classes?"  Anyways.  I went down to Florida for spring break and I drove the STE.  Only had a couple problems :roll: The brakelight switch broke and I had to pull it out and fix it in the parking lot of the hotel because the brake lights were permenantly on or disconnected.  That and I had a tire come apart and was forced to buy four shitty tires in Alabama.  
But back to the original reason for the post...I drove down there with myself and 3 other guys all averaging about 200# each and all of our luggage and enough liquor to kill an elephant.  I got 35 mpg running about 75 mph the whole way.  If that's not f@*$'n awesome I don't what is.

[1trucavalier]

i posted before about the brake or stop lamp switch.  you are talking about the one under the dash above the steering assembly?  if so that thing is about one of the hardest parts to replace on the car and it only cost $12 :cry:

[R Dubya]

Now If I remember correctly, someone said that there is a recall on that part.  I replaced mine but the brake light still stay on sometimes, and occasionally when I am driving, and I go to use cruise, I have to pull back on the brake pedal just a little bit and then the cruise will work.  But anyway, it was a bitch to replace.

[1trucavalier]

if it stays on every now and then then its not adjusted correctly!!  when you got the part did you adjust the silver pointer in the middle or just put it in??  from the factory its not in the right place (sometimes) so you need to go back and move the pointer.  I found that out because it was doing it to me. 1st get a mirror (what i did) or a person so they can monitor the rear brake light,  then pull out  the switch but leave the plug connected.  Take the silver pointer and pull it upwards and either move it left or right to see when the brake lights come on.  When you have figured out which way you need to lock the pin in,  move the rectangular/circular section of the switch that hooks to the brake pedal arm until the light comes on at  a little more than what would be a touch on the brakes.  Then just reinstall it.  I know its a MF but that shit is dangerous when your brake lights stay on and someone is behind you and they don't know if your braking or not. :D

[Black Pheonix]

the guy that owned mine before me put a spring on the brake pedal so it would pull forward a little and the brake lights wouldn't come on, tacky, but it works i guess