brakes

bmktrexpro · October 11, 2002, 08:07:52 PM

I've had new bakes put on the car and bleed the entire system. Brakes were working just fine other than the ABS light coming on, and then one day went out and hit the brakes and the brake light came on and then went off. I checked the fluid level and it was full of bubbles and real milkie looking and the level was low. Called the dealer and they of course want me to bring them the car and let them check it out at $66/hour. But they also said that it could be one of the valves that is located underneath the mastercylinder. What do you think? Also, can these break systems be converted over to a different type of ABS system, one that dosn't require a million to get repaired?

Chris A · October 11, 2002, 09:08:12 PM

The brake light coming on is becaue the pressure is dropping low momentartily. It cam be from a weak pump or low accumulator precharge. The fluid level low is decieving. You have to fully discharge the MC by pressing the brake 40 times. THe fluid being in that condition is becaues the fluid squirts back into the resivour and gets aereted. Its normal with repeated brake applies and the pump running.

It has been converted to normal brakes, but not another abs system. Either way its not easy to do.

bmktrexpro · October 13, 2002, 08:54:15 AM

I've had it checked out and it came back as low accumulator precharge powermaster solenoids to the left front wheel. Mean anything to you?

Chris A · October 13, 2002, 10:26:05 AM

Quote from: bmktrexproI've had it checked out and it came back as low accumulator precharge powermaster solenoids to the left front wheel. Mean anything to you?

Do you have the code numbers?

The low acumulator precharge is what is causing the light to blink on because its not holding any pressure to supply the boost circut when you step on the pedal.

The solenoid error I don't know. It could be picking up a short in the left front solenoid, or it could just need to be bled. I would need the code number for that one.

chris

bmktrexpro · October 14, 2002, 01:24:18 PM

Code 62. This code is not from the dealer. It's from a local shop. Is it hard to convert? Is there a parts list that I can get?

Chris A · October 14, 2002, 05:32:07 PM

Doesn't matter the code is specific to the car.

Check this out....

goto www.turbogpgarage.com

click on Powermaster Info on the left

on the right side is a menu, click on ABS CODES

code 62 means low accumulator precharge. Considering the conditions you describe it follows that the accumulator needs to be replaced.

Chris

bmktrexpro · October 16, 2002, 08:09:33 PM

thanks so much for the info., very helpful. I was also wondering of you've ever had any problems with the car shutting off when you came to a stop? I get no trouble codes and I'm able to start it right back up. I've been told that it was my tourqe converter switch. Possible? I almost had it replaced one time at a local garage. He was going to charge me $300, then when I took the car in he came up with another cost of $500 or more cause he said he did'nt here me tell him it was a turbo, so I left and hav'nt fooled with it since. Are you from Baltimore, or is that someone elses car on the garage site? I'm from Martinsburg, WV.
Thanks Again

Chris A · October 16, 2002, 10:21:28 PM

Your welcome!

I guess it doesn't say where i'm form in my info, but yes I actually live in baltimore.

It doesn't surprise me about the cost, its alot of time to get the parts out of there, because the tranny has a bracket on the side of it to support it, and the turbo attaches to that. So you have to take out the turbo, and the bracket, then disassemble the side of the pan. Definitely sounds like the TCC sol though. Very typical pattern. Come to a stop and the car stalls because the clutch is still engaged. Doesn't do it all the time does it? I'd figure a normal 4t60 TCC is about 2hrs of labor or so maybe 3. With the turbo its 5 or 6. If the bolts fight it goes up from there i'm sure. So 6hrs at $70/hr is $420? Plus the part tax and shop supplies at the least.

A quick check is to drive with the plug on the front of the tranny undone, and see if it stops stalling. Then plug it back in and see if it starts the stalling again. If so its definitely the TCC Sol.

bmktrexpro · October 20, 2002, 08:26:02 PM

I have another question for you. When I had new brakes put on, we didn't bleed it like the instructions tell you to. I was told that you are able to bleed them just like a typical brake system, you know pump, bleed. Nor did I bleed the master. Could that be the problem? Should I try to bleed them the proper way to see if that fixes the problem? I would be nice if it did, but my luck it won't. I printed out the instructions on how to bleed and how to replace accum.
Thanks again for your help. You've put some hope back into me about the car. Me and the wife were about to take the car to the auction and get what we can out of it. Now, if this fixes it then we are going to keep it and maybe repaint and put it some car shows.