Budget Performance Mods

[Mr. Mod Man]

want to put more power to the road for less than $5? Then go to the hardware store and buy some washers to hold the stock rubber bushings on the dogbone motormounts :shock: in place. No need to keep replacing them, heck even if they are blown, 8 large washers is all you need to restore them(unless they are completely chewed on).No need for aftermarket upgrades this way, and it still stiffens it up some.

I dont know why the factory forgot to put these on, after doing it you wonder why it wasnt like that.

[Chris A]

I dont know why the factory forgot to put these on, after doing it you wonder why it wasnt like that.

Probably because the washers can contact the mount or the bracket and vibrate. This procedure is very similar to the shock preload bolts they sell for trucks.

[HiZ]

how do you mount them?
For some reason it's not making sense to me?
do you pull out the old rubber or grind down the center support>
details, Thanks

[1trucavalier]

I removed all my rubber from the damaged side and cut a large poly bushing from some muscle car (pepboys) slid it inside and packed with washers as you explained.  Almost the same mod.  My dogbone engine sides were so brittle when i took them apart the rubber just fell out :oops:

[Mr. Mod Man]

All you have to do is put one washer on each side of the rubber bushing and bolt it back in, repeat. Pretty simple, just make sure it is the right size about 2" diameter with a hole big enough to fit the bolt through. Trust me, this is easier than shit. Bring the dogbone into the hardware store with you if you  have to. For the really chewed on ones, buy a new one, and then install the washers. You should not pay more than 30 bucks. Or use a donor bushing from the local yard. You can pop out the bushing from the dogbone sometimes w/out damaging it if you are carefull.

[Jeff M]

Woh, careful least we not forget that the engine must remain electrically isolated from the rest of the car meaning no grounding points intentional such as a dog bone being washered and no longer isolating with the rubber or urethane portion or, unintentionally such as an oil soaked deteriorated dead motor mount.  IF the washers are small enough and kept just short of contacting the dog bone while still providing support to the isolating/vibration absorbing material, should be no problem EXCEPT the engine shifting under hard acceleration and/or gear shifts may be able to squish the isolator and move the washer into contact with the dog bone.  All this means is there needs to be a little more research and some playing/testing to make sure to avoid adding a ground source from the engine to the car/chassis and to still gain from this great idea.

Jeff M
One who has replaced dog bones too often
Now back to work for me, just wanted to head that one into the right direction.

[1trucavalier]

ty for the info! my poly that i shoved in there was so thick it comes out on both sides so it didn't touch.  This was just a temp thing though I a going to purchase the fast forward units.

[Mr. Mod Man]

Why cant you ground the block? I believe you but never heard of this!

[idbeast]

It causes a false ground loop, and the computer gets false information!!

[Mr. Mod Man]

I just checked it out and there is no concern about grounding through the mounts because there is no contact with dogbones or vibration. The motor will remain isolated during hard acceleration(even more isolated than without), as well as having more power to the pavement.