3100 swap dead fuel pump? / NEW PLugs Wires ICM and PACKS NO START

[killinprixs]

I almost got this thing started but i think i had the fuel lines backwards.  One of the TGP fuel lines is bigger than the other , i think i have it right now but i think the fuel pump just died.  Dont have access to fuel pressure gauge but it doesnt spray out and i dont hear the pump anymore.  It sounds like it wants to start with a little starter fluid but it back fired mad loud ,cought fire in TB and i stopped.  Does anyone know which line is the send and goes to the regulator?   Any help apreciated>

[sleeperred90tgp]

Boy your having a time.  :icon_sad: The pressure or big line goes in the fuel rail at the rear fuel rail, the small one is the return and goes to the regulator. You can tell the pressure real easy if it is disconneted and stuk in a can. Just turn the key on, you'll soon know.

If it sprays real good when you depress the sharader valve you have enough pressure. It will start with as low a s 15#. Won't run worth a shit.

Jud

[killinprixs]

O wait, thats the way i had them before, i guess now theyre backwards.   The pump came on tonight and i got )zero PSI  (bought a FP tester) .   I turned the key back off and then back on and no fuel pump that time.  Im gonna switch them back and see whats up.  Yea Im having a bLAST!  My Iroc just spun a bearing too so i need this turbo junk grand prix to fire up.

[killinprixs]

Ok  i finally got it started.  I switched out those autolight racing plugs and put stock delcos and it fired up.  I had to gas it a little to keep it running but it ran pretty smooth while it was cold.  I tried keeping it at around 2000 rpm to break the cam in a little, it kinda wants to idle when i let it go. when it got to operation temp it started running like crap.  I think new wires cant hurt but something is going on with the sensors maybe?  Also it wouldnt start with the IC pipe on.  At least it finally runs, ill see what tomorrow brings.   Thanks to everyone for helpin out. 

[killinprixs]

Some of you know im having some problems with this car.  It ran last night once but now it wont start at all,  New ICM, plugs, wires, and packs still no start.   it is a 3100 topend.  Also new motor, crank sensor, could injectors be bad? They are brand new from 5.0  (30 lbs).  The check engine was on when it ran but it only gave a code 12.  Im about to give up on this car that how frustrated i am.  Soo much money and nothing.

[TGPilot]

Have you verified you have spark? Seen it for yourself?

Have you verified you have fuel pressure at the rail with a gage? Not the spittle test with a screw driver at the shrader...with a pressure gage?

[grinders_18]

SOrry I haven't been following the progress as much as others. Does it backfire at all? Or does it just crank and not get anywhere? If that's it, I had a few things that went wrong when mine did the same.

1) Crank Sensor, backside of the block, closest to the firewall, way back beneath the middle plug wire...past that you will feel the connector for the sensor.

2) Check the fuel injector fuses under the hood...there's a fuse block on the passengers side under the hood, and there are 2 10 amp fuses ( I beleive 10 amp...they say which are which)...my guess is atleast one is blown...free and easy to check this one.

Crank sensor is like $18 from Advance...under $20 for sure, and relatively easy to replace. I've done two. Fuses should be checked first.

Let me know!

Krenzy

[pontiac6ksteawd]

ECM is what comes to mind for me..

[killinprixs]

I used a pressure gauge yesterday, fuel is over 40psi.  It seems since the car first started, it kept running more and more like crap when it  warmed up, i replaced the whole ignition hoping that would do it but it wont throw spark anymore.    Does this sounds like i fried the computer or prom is ruined?     Crank sensor is brand new by the way, fuses all good. 

[sleeperred90tgp]

Well Ike as far as I know you haven' checked out your CS as I asked you to do. Until you satisfy that that system works properly I don't think your car will ever run. I told you that you have an electrical problem and from what you have told me you still do. You have power to the ICM but the CS and what you have done to it leaves suspicions. DO THE TEST I ASKED YOU TO DO AND GO FROM THERE. OR GO AHEAD AND REPLACE EVERYTHING ON THE CAR AND THE CHANCES ARE IT STILL WON'T RUN.

[killinprixs]

ok  good thing the PMs are still there. Unplug Knock sensor (has brand new connector on it now).  So the 3 connector pin on the ICM?  On ohms, probe one to ground the other to each pin,  im not supposed to get O on any of them?  Then probe pins together to look for shorts.   Ill do it first thing tomorrow morning and ill tell you what ive found.  Does this sound right?

[sleeperred90tgp]

CS test

1-With meter on 2k ohms probe wires a and c at cs to icm plug (wire end)=900 to 1200 ohms
move  and bend cs harness  around,  you could have a short in one position and not in another.

If this fails or your meter wont read correctly than then go to 2 and 3.

2-cs plug disconnected, ICM 3 pin plug disconnected, meter on contunity check. Touch probes together on meter and note the reading=0 resistance. When doing these test move the cs harness around, you could have a short in one position and not in another.

probe each of the 3 pins (cs wires not the ICM)to ground=  no reading (needle should not move)
if you get a reading that wire is shorted to ground

probe each pin to each other= no reading (needle should not move)
if you get a reading those two wires are touching.

3-cs plug disconnected, ICM plug disconnected and tape peeled back on cs wires at cs plug to expose the shielded cable at cs plug. You may have to peel back some of the alum foil to get to the shield wire.

probe each wire individually, pin to pin and center pin to shielded cable at cs=0 resistance.
if it doesn't you have a broken wire. The only way to assure that the shielded wire is in one piece is to pull on it from each end or unwrap and inspect it. The foil will indicate its ok but could still be broken.

Check where the wires go behind the AC bracket and make sure they aren't pinched.  It's easy to do.

If the above is all good put cs shielding back together, tape and connect to cs. Do test 1 again.

If this all checks out your cs and cs circut is ok. Make sure your battery has a full charge. and your icm has power (check fuses).

Good luck

Jud

[killinprixs]

Jud im having alittle trouble doing this. 

"3-cs plug disconnected, ICM plug disconnected and tape peeled back on cs wires at cs plug to expose the shielded cable at cs plug. You may have to peel back some of the alum foil to get to the shield wire."

I see a little copper wire at the 3 pin ICM plug .  There are only 2 wires at Crank Sensor plug. Is there a shield wire that runs to the crank sensor that i cant see or is it broken?  I would like to check continuity of this wire but cant find the other end. 

OK-  1.  A+C on CS to ICM plug = .961
2.  CS + ICM 3 pin unhooked.  Each pin to ground (  no reading)
3. PIN to Pin from CS plug to ICM plug.  (CS AB to ICM ABC?) 
CS A to ICM A=0
CS B to ICM C=0
I can understand the copper wire getting brittle during install but i cant find the other end to check it.  Thanks  a lot Jud.

[sleeperred90tgp]

Ike, are you sure about .961, on test  1, what kind of meter are you using digital or analog (needle)? Do you have a 2k or 2000 position on the switch?
My readings on a 2k setings are in the same range but with no "."

test 2  sounds good

test 3 sounds good except for b wire. I would open the harness and find the end and check it. As I remember it doesn't go to the cs plug but I can't remember how close it got. If it is broken it will most likley be near the exhaust manifold. Thats where mine broke. It's been years, left me on the road dead.

Ill check back every so often I am at home also.

Jud

[killinprixs]

Yea i definatley got .961, im pretty sure i put it on 2k ohms (digital).  The car is 2 houses up at my grandmothers so im kinda running up and down the street to the computer.   I peeled back CS foil and tape and found the wire about 3 inches from CS plug, Ohm'd both sides and it was 0.  Ohmed it to ground and got nothing.  -  The knock sensor has a new plug but is original.    Should i ohm ICM A+C again on 2k ?   Thanks