Nick's Rolling TGP Thread

Started by TGP Nick, April 13, 2008, 05:31:20 PM

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TGP Nick

#90
Well I was able to get ahold of a test light today and checked some stuff out.

I tested the connector that connects to the driver's side of the ICM and I am getting power to my ICM. :icon_idea:

I tried testing the plug that connects to the CPS (not sure if there is any power fed to the sensor or not..) and it didn't light up when I stuck the test light in the CPS wiring connector.

Can someone tell me what this means? :laugh:
Nick
1989 Pontiac Turbo Grand Prix- LG5 - 4T60HD
2008 Ford Ranger XLT- 2.3 DOHC I-4 - 5MT
2012 Nissan Altima SR coupe- 3.5 V6 - 6MT

Bullet

Nick - the ones you're looking at getting have them so you are good to go.
1988 Fiero Base Coupe (The Show Car)
1992 Cameleon Firebird 305 T-Top 50k original miles

Quote from Shifter23 - "Money Talks, Bullshit Walks"

killinprixs

Quote from: TGP Nick on June 10, 2008, 06:54:58 PM
Well I was able to get ahold of a test light today and checked some stuff out.

I tested the connector that connects to the driver's side of the ICM and I am getting power to my ICM. :icon_idea:

I tried testing the plug that connects to the CPS (not sure if there is any power fed to the sensor or not..) and it didn't light up when I stuck the test light in the CPS wiring connector.

Can someone tell me what this means? :laugh:
Thats good you have power ,  there is a plug on the passenger side of the ICM, that runs to your CPS, switch your multimeter to OHMs, it should go to 0 when you touch the probes together indicating continuity,  Unplug the CPS harness from the sensor and from the ICM and check continuity of each wire from end to end, careful, there is a 3rd wire that doesnt run all the way to the  CPS its copper (very brittle) and sheilded, if that breaks the car wont start, peel back the tape on the CPS side of the harness and youll see it, check continuity of that wire to the ICM...  hopefully someone else in here knows what im talkin about...  IIRC the cps only gets signal when the starter is cranking or engine is running.

cobracmdr

Quote from: grandprixagain on June 11, 2008, 12:05:00 AM
Quote from: TGP Nick on June 10, 2008, 06:54:58 PM
Well I was able to get ahold of a test light today and checked some stuff out.

I tested the connector that connects to the driver's side of the ICM and I am getting power to my ICM. :icon_idea:

I tried testing the plug that connects to the CPS (not sure if there is any power fed to the sensor or not..) and it didn't light up when I stuck the test light in the CPS wiring connector.

Can someone tell me what this means? :laugh:
Thats good you have power ,  there is a plug on the passenger side of the ICM, that runs to your CPS, switch your multimeter to OHMs, it should go to 0 when you touch the probes together indicating continuity,  Unplug the CPS harness from the sensor and from the ICM and check continuity of each wire from end to end, careful, there is a 3rd wire that doesnt run all the way to the  CPS its copper (very brittle) and sheilded, if that breaks the car wont start, peel back the tape on the CPS side of the harness and youll see it, check continuity of that wire to the ICM...  hopefully someone else in here knows what im talkin about...  IIRC the cps only gets signal when the starter is cranking or engine is running.

I know what you are talking about, Nick if it is not clear get out the service manual and look up how to trouble shoot the CPS or the ICM is should give you a detailed step by step procedure for checking all functionality. 

Ike I don't think he has a multimeter more a logic probe or test light, Nick get a cheep multimeter at autozone or something they are like 10 bucks it is a must for electrical troubleshooting.  Good luck and follow what the book says.

Ken

1989 Turbo Grand Prix - missed very much!!!!
2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 M6 12.01 @117 mph - Inferno Orange Metallic, long tubes, x pipe, Cat back, all 3" pipe 321 SS, vararam intake, LC-1, diy tune
01 Grand Prix GTP - 3.4 pulley, plog, k&n drop in, u-bend & resonator delete, tuned
03 Suzuki SV650N - zx10 shock, racetech springs/emulators, streetfighter

TGP Nick

I swapped in a good ECM and there is still no change.

We are now looking at a wiring problem... I hate electronics.
Nick
1989 Pontiac Turbo Grand Prix- LG5 - 4T60HD
2008 Ford Ranger XLT- 2.3 DOHC I-4 - 5MT
2012 Nissan Altima SR coupe- 3.5 V6 - 6MT

Bullet

Quote from: TGP Nick on June 23, 2008, 12:09:37 PM
I swapped in a good ECM and there is still no change.

We are now looking at a wiring problem... I hate electronics.

just use the wire that you have at your place and re-use the stock connectors. (but replace all the wiring between the ICM and the CPS)
1988 Fiero Base Coupe (The Show Car)
1992 Cameleon Firebird 305 T-Top 50k original miles

Quote from Shifter23 - "Money Talks, Bullshit Walks"

cobracmdr

Quote from: Bullet on June 25, 2008, 09:18:52 AM
Quote from: TGP Nick on June 23, 2008, 12:09:37 PM
I swapped in a good ECM and there is still no change.

We are now looking at a wiring problem... I hate electronics.

just use the wire that you have at your place and re-use the stock connectors. (but replace all the wiring between the ICM and the CPS)

Guys guys guys what are you talking about?  Replacing wiring when you don't know it is bad?  your just introducing more problems and variation into the system.  Please somebody back me up on this one, Nick seriously you are going to beat yourself if you start cutting and splicing with no idea why it won't run.  You have to get a multimeter and follow the book and start troublshooting in a logical manner what could be malfunctioning, CPS could be, ICM harness could be it, but you need a multimeter to test and verify the units are getting power, ground or outputting a signal.  The manual will tell you exactly how to test each part without chopping up the wire harness. 

Randomly replacing shit is a real redneck way to fix a car.....testing and troubleshooting is a techincal a sophisicated way of solving the problem without spending a ton of money.  In the end this way will save you a lot of frustration.

Ken

1989 Turbo Grand Prix - missed very much!!!!
2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 M6 12.01 @117 mph - Inferno Orange Metallic, long tubes, x pipe, Cat back, all 3" pipe 321 SS, vararam intake, LC-1, diy tune
01 Grand Prix GTP - 3.4 pulley, plog, k&n drop in, u-bend & resonator delete, tuned
03 Suzuki SV650N - zx10 shock, racetech springs/emulators, streetfighter

grinders_18

Quote from: cobracmdr on June 25, 2008, 09:44:00 AM

Randomly replacing shit is a real redneck way to fix a car.....testing and troubleshooting is a techincal a sophisicated way of solving the problem without spending a ton of money.  In the end this way will save you a lot of frustration.


He's got a good point. I went through that process when my TGP was acting up. 9 months of replacing "maybe this is bad" parts, and it turned out to be something simple...all it took was an electrical genius 2 hours to figure it out.

This radio station was renamed Krenzy in honor of the last American hero to whom speed means freedom of the soul. The question is not when he's gonna stop, but who is gonna stop him.

TGP Nick

Are there any electrical geniuses in MN?  I've done everything I can to try to figure this out, and with this electrical stuff, I am just taking a stab into the dark.  I'm ready to hand this to someone else, because I obviously have no clue what I am doing when it comes to electrical.
Nick
1989 Pontiac Turbo Grand Prix- LG5 - 4T60HD
2008 Ford Ranger XLT- 2.3 DOHC I-4 - 5MT
2012 Nissan Altima SR coupe- 3.5 V6 - 6MT

meltboy11

have you ever thought of bringing it to a GM dealership.. I hate to suggest that, but I gotta agree with ken on this one, you don't wanna start fixing shit that aint broke, that's a good way to break something... lol
90 TGP ~70k miles 5/15
04 Wrangler 4.0 5 spd
Litchfield, NY

TGP Nick

I called the local GM dealership yesterday and they want $200 just to take a look at it..
Nick
1989 Pontiac Turbo Grand Prix- LG5 - 4T60HD
2008 Ford Ranger XLT- 2.3 DOHC I-4 - 5MT
2012 Nissan Altima SR coupe- 3.5 V6 - 6MT

Bullet

Quote from: TGP Nick on June 25, 2008, 11:36:31 AM
I called the local GM dealership yesterday and they want $200 just to take a look at it..

don't do it!!!!
I hope you don't do it, they wont be able to actually tell you exactly what it is, they'll just say the "we think it's the..." or "It could be the"
and then  $200 dollars wasted.
I'm sorry but I've swarn of all dealerships. If one of my cars had something wrong with it and it had a warranty I'd still try to keep them away from dealers...I've just had all bad experiences with everybody who's worked on my cars except me. sorry but I just needed to vent that out.
1988 Fiero Base Coupe (The Show Car)
1992 Cameleon Firebird 305 T-Top 50k original miles

Quote from Shifter23 - "Money Talks, Bullshit Walks"

cobracmdr

Quote from: TGP Nick on June 25, 2008, 11:28:17 AM
Are there any electrical geniuses in MN?  I've done everything I can to try to figure this out, and with this electrical stuff, I am just taking a stab into the dark.  I'm ready to hand this to someone else, because I obviously have no clue what I am doing when it comes to electrical.

Find a good repair shop or electrical technician or electrical engineer to help you.  I'm sure they can help you test the systems on the car.  Any good modern repair shop will be able to fix this for you if you are willing to pay.  I wish I could help more but unless I'm there I can't do much for you other than tell you to start reading up on basic electrical theory for automotive applications, and read up on how to use a multimeter.  It is really not all that complicated.......you have voltage usually 12 DC (from the battery) Ground and signal (depending on the sensor could be 5 DC)

Learn how to check DC voltage, resistance, continuity and that is it.

Ken

1989 Turbo Grand Prix - missed very much!!!!
2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 M6 12.01 @117 mph - Inferno Orange Metallic, long tubes, x pipe, Cat back, all 3" pipe 321 SS, vararam intake, LC-1, diy tune
01 Grand Prix GTP - 3.4 pulley, plog, k&n drop in, u-bend & resonator delete, tuned
03 Suzuki SV650N - zx10 shock, racetech springs/emulators, streetfighter

jimmy

         we'll we do know that everything worked before all the sensors were changed, right.       
         so that tells you that you have something's not making its connection, you just have to
         find it.
         if your going to start at the CPS then simply take the connector off completely, cause its prolly bad anyway
         and wire it straight (wire to wire) this elliminates the possible bad connection
         and only do this to the ones that you have disconnected untill you find the bad one
         my knock sensor connector was bad, and this is the process I took to locate it.
         hope it helps you as well.
             

grinders_18

But he said it ran fine for about 10 minutes before it mysteriously died.

So all the sensors had to be working fine for atleast that period of time, right? Not a bad suggestion though, Jimmy. Definately a free method!

This radio station was renamed Krenzy in honor of the last American hero to whom speed means freedom of the soul. The question is not when he's gonna stop, but who is gonna stop him.