What would be a better choice with a rebuild of the 3.1 turbo, a new crate shortblock $$$$, or rebuild the engine with some stronger parts. I here everyone say how strong these engines are but I have only 68,000 miles on mine and it took a major shit on me last night at 65 mph. It's something in the bottom end like a cap or a rod. I have so many questions I don't know where to start. Would the 3800 block from the newer grand prix's work with gtp engine management and heads, intake, transmission, etc.? Do I need to beef the motor up a little bit while it is apart or is this a rare failure? Where can I find a rebuild kit with equal or superior components. Northern auto sells a kit but with some inferior components. While the engine is out (who knows how long) should I rebuild the tranny with the kit I've heard Jeff M. sells (haven't confirmed this)? All sensors, coils, plugs/wires, k&n filter, tires, struts, rear sway bar, etc. have been replaced within 15,000 miles. I just don't want to throw another $3,000 into a car that cost me $4,000. All replies and sympathy will be greatly appreciated.
Nothing can withstand poor maintenece. Unless you are the original owner, who knows whats happened in the last 13 years. These engines are among the more reliable ones.
Nothing from a 3800 will work, 3100 and 3400 blocks wonn't easily interchange, their heads can be made to work.
There aren't really any performance "kits" because these engines aren't typically a performance motor. You can rebuild it with good quality parts, but unless you go cutsom forged, stick with the Mahle Pistons. You can get them oversized if it needs to be bored.
I wouldn't go with a crate motor, invest the time in your block and you can have a very strong powerplant.
It wouldn't hurt to go throught the tranny if its in the budget, and the engine/trans combo come out rather easily together.
Maddux31,
Sorry to hear of your misfortune. There are a few like TurboSTE, & some others who have rebuilt their motors but as far as listing their upgrades or rebuild sheets...there have been none posted.
Some links that might help towards the rebuild are:
http://www.jbodyperformance.com/
http://www.60degreev6.com/
http://www.60degreev6.com/members/gpxss/
http://webhome.idirect.com/~rsm1/main.htm
http://www.v6z24.com/links/performance
and many others :)
As far as Transmission rebuilds.....llittle is known. Keep us posted on your progress.
Thomas
I'll be starting my rebuild this summer :D
Or me! :)
As far as the block is concerned, there isn't alot that needs to be done. The rods are forged, the crank is rolled and hardened and the pistons reinforced from the factory.
I would highly recommned balancing, as factory engines aren't commonly balanced to the harmonic balancer and flywheel.
The only other things you can really do are very heavy duty rods (pre 1968 small block chevy rods can be modified) or custom forged pistons. However, I've seen little proof that these means are neccesary for even moderate powerlevels.
Sorry Chris..... :oops:
I think I'm going insane. I listened to the same noise up close and I looked at the turbo impellar, it feels like there is abnormal play/movement, it moves around when I touch the impellar. Is there supposed to be a vaccum line coming out of left side of the boost control solenoid? My Pontiac P&I catalog doesn't show one but my car has a retaining clip on the left but only one line coming out of it(two male fittings on left) Anybody know Dave Yeung from Houston? I bought the car off of him and he did all maintenance at proper intervals, I verified all this with him before I went to Houston, gave me all the paper work when I picked the car up, so I don't think it is a maintenance issue. I keep recalling someone on this forum talking about "do not buy this car unless you're willing to spend a large amount of money at any time...." When I figure out All that is wrong with my car I will return with some more words of nonwisdom. :cry:
No vacuum line, the clip used to hold a little sponge filter. THere should be one line coming out of the left and right side. There are a couple of engine pics on my site that you might be able to see what I mean.
I assume you have some sort of knocking sound? If it sounds deep in the middle of the engine then yes you probably have something wrong. But if its knocking or making noise elsewhere, or your turbo blades hit the housing or there is a LARGE amount of play then it could be a cheaper problem.
Chris
Sometimes I use a mechanics stethescope to isolate noises, Using a regular small diameter hose works also, Just watch your fingers / when moving the hose around on the running engine.
I'll try anything at this point, It's just hard to get close enough to isolate the noise. Thanks, I'll try that before I take the turbo off tonight. Who do the gpt nation go to for turbo rebuilds?
oops, that's tgp nation.
Hi, Sorry to hear about the misfortune. I had the same thing happen, but alittle softer, slower speed, etc and decided to pull the whole eng/transaxle and totally rebuild. The turbo, x over, coils, timing chain , etc as well as excessive detailing to the assembly and engine bay. I can tell you it's an amazing car car to drive once things are sorted out. I'll put the Topgun chip 160 stat in soon to take it to a higher level... Take your time and rebuild what you have. I had no leaks or problems upon startup and extremely pleased with the investment. Good luck !
how much play is normal on the turbo impellar? My impellar is moving up/down, side to side at least 3-4 millimeters. that doesn't sound like much but it seems like it did not have that much movement when I cleaned my k&n. the impellar is not moving front to back at all. tried the stethoscope thing and i think that it is definitely the turbo. Pulling it apart tonight maybe.