Lots of topics on the PM3, but I couldn't find anybody who has put in the prior accumulator in their car. So has anyone? This is the one with the nut on the back, so any tips would be welcomed.
I installed a Prior acc. back in the late spring when I splurged and did some updates and mods to my TGP. With the factory accumulator, I was lucky to get 2 pedal presses and then the pump would run. Now I steadily get three presses to each pump cycle, but the anti-lock light still flashes from time to time. The Prior is a bit bigger than the factory one, and there wasn't the nut on the end, so tightening it was difficult. I was disappointed because of the antilock light, but I should have just expected it to not work.
So are you saying you're not a firm believer in their quality, of that you should have just had the entire thing rebuilt?
Did it help the braking? And how hard was it to install?
I went from 1 pedal press to 3 pedal presses per cycle just when I swapped the toasted GM acc. for the Prior one. So I am pleased with it as far as I have come to this point, and I will not complain that it's less than 1/3 of the price GM wants for the replacement. I know very little about the PM system, so I am learning as I go, but my next step is to get a rebuilt pump so I can avoid any further headaches, because I need to have the car in fully functional condition before I can justify any other modifications besides the Top Gun chip, which was the best investement I've made on my car.
As far as installation went, it wasn't all that bad, but the Prior Acc. is much larger than the factory one, so I disconnected the fuel lines to get more play and eventually it slipped right in there, although it was a fight to get it in. Be warned you may have to disconnect the throttle body to get it in with out breaking the throttle cable or vacuum lines. Make sure you get it in there good, because there isn't a nut on the top of the Prior acc., which makes it harder to get it on correctly. Then again, I might have done it in a way that other people may not, so if anyone else has any tips..
Ryan, about how long did it take you to install the accumulator? Just curious as my dads TGP is in need of one..pump cycles on almost every brake press and get the blinking anti-lock brake idiot light on the cluster...
If you do it right under a half hour. I think Chris A.'s site is the one with directions if I'm not mistaken. You need a universal socket to remove the factory one and then hand tighten the hell out of the Prior one.
Try here look under brakes on the left side and look for replacing accumulator.. that's everything you need, thanks to Chris A.
http://aldridgec.home.att.net/
Quote from: RyanIf you do it right under a half hour. I think Chris A.'s site is the one with directions if I'm not mistaken. You need a universal socket to remove the factory one and then hand tighten the hell out of the Prior one.
Try here look under brakes on the left side and look for replacing accumulator.. that's everything you need, thanks to Chris A.
http://aldridgec.home.att.net/
Thanks for the info. I have the GM service manual for the 90 GP's along w/ the TGP supplemental manual 8) ..I was just asking to see how long it takes everyone.. :wink:
I emailed prior and they said to use an oil filter wrench to tighten.
Yeah, but it's hard enough to get a hand on it as it is, let alone a wrench. Let us know if it works.
How much are the prior accumulators? Or do they only come with the rebuilt powercrapper??
You can get one for $89 or $99.. I can't remember exactly but right around there.
Best price I found was GM parts direct for $241 shipped. I dont know about the Prior one. The GM is a direct fit and needs no special tools. When I get mine I'll let you know how many brake applications I get till the pump comes on. Should be about 4-5 though not this 2-3 crap.
I'm still going to check into getting the old one serviced, if it can be done it will save us all $$$$$ thousands. Ya just need to get it to your local aircraft mechanic. :shock:
That would be interesting to see if it can be refilled. Wonder how much it would cost.
Hey sorry about not posting sooner but I have been testing out the car since its running and drivable.
I have been getting 5 easy brake applications and 4 hard ones. This PMIII system takes some getting used to thats for sure.
I cant say much about the Prior bottle but I paid $240 shipped for the GM bottle.
I call them bottles because I'm in the Navy in aviation and they are known as nitrogen bottles. I have not had the chance to look into getting these recharged but maybe next week.
I finally installed the prior unit yesterday. The GM one was easy to get out, but when I tried to tighten the prior one with a strap wrench, I was unsuccessful. You need a 1 inch wrench and can get to the back of the accum where the nut is, if you go in from the passenger side. Brakes still feel a little squishy but the abs and brake lights no longer come on. So it probably needs a better bleed. I used the engine tilter I rented from pep boys, and it worked out good. It made it so much easier to tilt although it won't go completely all the way. I might just keep it it's just $18.
Quote from: no1kickerThe GM one was easy to get out, but when I tried to tighten the prior one with a strap wrench, I was unsuccessful. I used the engine tilter I rented from pep boys, and it worked out good. It made it so much easier to tilt although it won't go completely all the way. I might just keep it it's just $18.
The GM one took me about 10 minutes to change. I even took a break. The engine tilter I have was a pry bar and a buddy, cost me a beer.
I never had to bleed my system, works like a champ.
Gregg, just a thought, since the "seal" for the accum is the O-Ring, it does not have to be real tight like to hold the 2,000 psi+ it runs, the O-Ring does that part mainly with the threads of the accum just holding things in place. Did you do the brake bleed such as wham the brake pedal 5 times, cycle the key till the pump stops running, wham the pedal 5 times and key on....several times? If you do this the bubbles of air will be dislodged free, basically the way to "Bleed" after an accum swap, but I like to also let the system set and do this again later as the fluid gets areated with bubbles easy.
Better luck now 8)
Jeff M