Has anybody tried replacing the cartridge inside of there turbo at home and taking the chance of it not being balanced? What was the results and where did you buy the kit, how much was it? Thanks in advance.
Catridge? :? You mean the bearing?
I rebuilt my own turbo. I used a kit that I got from a guy off ebay..I think his s/n was turbopimp. It was a rebuild kit for the T25/T28. You don't have to worry about balancing it. Just make sure you mark the housings/shafts before you start. Seaperating the exhaust housing from the compressor housing is a PITA though! :shock:
Mine has run good so far since then...the very little that I actually get to run it anyway :cry: At least it stopped throwing oil into the IC/Intake. 8)
Yeah the bearing, but the kit i found was considered a cartridge because you get the whole center of the turbo including the oil seal and whatever else is in there......also how much did you pay for your kit from ebay?
can you explain how to mark the housing/shafts so I dont screw everything up....and have to send it to you to fix it.....LOL....thanks in advance.
Kind of an old post here.. Burning Rom - how much did that rebuild kit cost you? I'm in need of one now.. it's burning some oil.. blowing blue smoke.. already did the return line with high quality hose. Thanks.
Quote from: RyanKind of an old post here.. Burning Rom - how much did that rebuild kit cost you? I'm in need of one now.. it's burning some oil.. blowing blue smoke.. already did the return line with high quality hose. Thanks.
I've seen them from around $70-100 on ebay, I guess it just depends on where you buy it.
Quote from: mfewtrailI've seen them from around $70-100 on ebay, I guess it just depends on where you buy it.
I paid $90 for it from a seller with the S/N turbopimp on ebay. It was a T25/T28 rebuild kit...so I had a few extra parts left over. 8)
no problems? this will be the only time i've taken a turbo apart, i would be able to figure it out.. i just dont wanna put it back together and find out if damaging the housing..
I would recommend you magnaflux the housings, especially the main one. Mine had a slight hairline crack and required precision welding. It works fine now and this problem is not unusual considering the heat and stress it handles. Good luck
How about this kit? I'm pretty sure this is the right one... but I need to be sure. And magnaflux? Could I have that done locally do you think or need to be sent to a specialist? I've never heard the term, but I assume its pressure test for cracks? There are a few speed shops around here but I'm not sure they deal with turbos..
Thanks for any help.
here's the kit -
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=46098&item=2448443035
That is the kit I used. I haven't had any problems with the turbo so far. I did have cracks in my housing, but I didn't worry about them. I'm replacing the turbo with a hyrbid later anyway. 8)
As far as not screwing up, make sure you mark the housings, turbine, and compressor before you take it apart. I'm pretty sure that's all I marked when I took it apart. It's a PITA to split the turbo into two separate parts though...those bolts have been cooking on there for a long time and they do not want to come off. :oops:
mark them? so not to screw up the alignment? or keep it in balance? or just so I know which part is which? thanks man.
Just thought I would through in a couple words to maybe help you out or take some of the scare factor out of taking a turbo apart. :D Alignment is called the clocking of the turbo sections. All three sections will rotat to any degree on the clock. For your d/p xover outlet and i/c hose on the compressor to be aligned mark them as carefully as you can. Should you loose the marks do to cleaning or new parts ( as I always seam to do) it's easy to re-clock it. Just bolt it in with the bolts loose, put a couple bolts in the d/p and the crossover and hook up your i/c hose then tighten the bolts around the front and rear section. You may have to take it off again to tighten the bottom bolts but thats the brakes. But at least it will fit properley. :lol:
Don't forget the never seize on all the bolts but the compressor housing.
Magnaflux can be done by any automotive machine shop and is only done on the cast steel parts. Can't Mag the compressor housing cause it's alum.
You could dye penatrate it but i would think its not worth the money. Same for magnaflux. You can visualy inspect your turbine housing and you will see the cracks. The ones you can't find don't worry about unles there in a bearing bore in the center section. :wink: The area of concern is the waste gate hole. Clean it up an you wll be able to see any cracks around the hole under the flapper. They can be welded and machined but a new housing could be cheaper. Or you can just leave them if there not to bad and the flapper sits flat against the hole.
Good luck on your rebuild.
Jud