Hey Guys
Does the Turbo Need to have the stock heat sheild or some kind of other insulating material to optimize performance???
Could someone explain the theory behind insulating the Turbo Exaust side??
and
What other components "should" be protected from extreme heat inder the Hood Of the TGP??
any info or recomendations is welcome
Dave
Lots of people run without a shield on the turbo exhaust side, just be sure that you have the shield around the PMIII. I bought a kit from Summit that included insulation and ties and wrapped mine when I had it out.
ya mine is out also and the original heat insulation pieces are in real bad shape......
i was just wondering what I should do???
i saw that kit from Summit also
do you like it ????
dave
I posted a reply to your question in the w-body forum. I'm not an engineer but I posted what I know. Hope it helps.
Mike
I got the DEI Turbo Insulation Kit from Summit. I love it. When my stock one fell apart, I got the DEI for $80. But be warned when you first take a drive and that heat wrap warms up, it'll smoke like no other. It won't do anything, just smoke for a few minutes and it smokes like crazy. But the smoke and smell will go away after a while.
Smoked like crazy eh.......
sounds like my trip home when i bought the TGP lol
out the exhaust though......
thanks for the info
im going to get that Turbo Wrap you mentioned from DEI
and some of there other heat sheilding products.
Cheers
Dave
I wrapped my intercooler to TBI pipe with a double layer of heat wrap from Summit. This metal pipe gets hot due to eng bay temps and any air going thru it will be warmed as well.
I am going to see what happens without the turbo blanket. I have my turbo exhaust ceramic coated to retain 1400 degrees. Interested to see what happens when I reassemble my car in Jan. Will follow up then with lots of info on engine bay temps. due to much investment in thermal coatings. I've been told that this eliminates the need for the blanket so i'll reposst when I'm finished with the rebuild.
I am by no means a turbo expert but when your ceramic coating to keep the heat from roasting everything around it , wouldent you be maken the turbo life shorter,cuz the internal aspect of it get hotter?Heat cant be good for anything. I Heat wrapt the crossover pipe on my non turbo 3.4 DOHC only to notice that it makes the exhaust on front manifold hotter cuz doesnt disperce heat from the actual metal its self. Didnt notice power gain but wasnt expecting only wanted to keep heat away from my intake filter....I'd like to take a inferd thermometer n check the diffrence of a rapped n none rapped unit once i get my turbo car(i hope its soon to im bored w/my 3.4 dohc)
Heat in exhaust gasses keeps it flowing faster and further. The faster it gets out, the better off it is. Helps scavange the cylinders as well.
Well I have finally reassembled my motor and everything else. The components I had coated are as follows as well as what I think of the quality of the investment. Aluminum color (chrome in appearance) ceramic thermal barrier 900-1000 degrees F---turbo compressor housing, lower intake manifold, front rocker cover, upper intake plenum---really withheld the heat well, could put my hands on all of it while the car was running---cost about 225.00---I think with the enhanced ease of cleaning these parts combined with the appearance and the thermal aspects it was well worth the price. Black color ceramic thermal barrier 1100-1400 degrees F---turbo turbine (exhaust side) housing, both exhaust manifolds, Jeff M. crossover (minus the flex piping via Jeff's advice)---cost about 250.00---didn't really seem to make a difference to the touch (burnt the shit out of one of my fingers checking the turbine housing READ:IDIOT!!!!), will not be able to run car without a blanket on the exhaust side of the turbo in my opinion which really dissapoints me, although I'm almost sure if I could measure the air temperatures around these components it would show a decrease from a stock setup---maybe worth the investment but would really like to talk to the guy that did this coating and will be doing so tomorrow. In hindsight I should have spent the extra money and had the downpipe coated. Will probably have the fuel feed and fuel return lines that go over the braided downpipe coated in the aluminum color this week to eliminate any worries in that area---they were really getting baked when I fired my car upafter the rebuild. Overall I would recommend the coating in the aluminum color and after speaking to the guy tomorrow I will update on the black color. If anyone knows the exhaust gas temperatures of our TGP post that in this topic please. To all a good day, I'm going to go drive my car that has been in pieces for the past 7 months. HA! HA! Dale Malcolm, Omaha, NE.
Quote from: TGPRobNYI would wrap the fuel lines with a heat "reflective tape" and I also wrapped the intercooler to TBI pipe with tape to keep this pipe from warmimg up since its purpose is to deliver cooler air from the intercooler and without the tape it definately gets very warm from underhood heat.
Moved this to here. For some reason a new thread was started with this reply... 8)
Well I have had the turbo blanket removed for about a year and 3 months now and it has had a negative effect on the powermaster III. I noticed a wet fluid on the top of the cover and around the sides of the cover/reservoirs about 3 months ago and my brake light started coming on about a week ago so I depressurized and checked the fluid level. Way low and probably air in the system. Bled air out and added fluid a couple times to get it topped off. Dried and cleaned everything off so I could tell if the reservoirs were leaking or if this thing had cracks in the actual body. I don't think the body is cracked but I have noticed the cover to the reservoirs is warped from all the heat that is now getting up there and "warming" it. The reason I left the blanket off is because I wanted to see if it was a good idea, now I have updated this OLD POST so others don't have to go through finding a new cover or anything that may be much worse or more expensive. Does anybody know where you will see the brake fluid if the main body of the powermaster is cracked?? I have read in the past that these poweremasters get cracks in the body and they will leak and loss of fluid will overstress the accumulator. Please post if you know about this. TIA, Dale Malcolm, Omaha, NE.
holy old post :shock:
I would first check the rear brake proportioning valve, more common for those to leak and would show in only one of the fluid chambers getting empty. The casting that houses the Accumulator/Pressure Switch/Pump Motor is the one that can leak, best to climb under the car and look up behind the driver's side wheel well and maybe past the subframe more under that area, lay you head on the ground and use a flashlight in a dark garage/overcast day so you can see clearing under the ABS Unit, where you will see these 3 items screwed into the housing, checking for wet spots in those areas, and of course under there too and if this much fluid has leaked, did you not have some wet spots on the ground? Never heard of a cap warping from the heat, seen a few TGPs run without the blankets like you, don't want to suggest running without one, I could be wrong for sure. I have seen wet spots around the lid many times, even after cleaning one up good, found there is a bulge where the rubber has a rib that goes across the center that on the ends actually causes a bulge that does not allow the rest of the rubber to seat in that area, so I use a sharp razor blade to trim off just a tiny bit of that fatter rubber area and had less seepage 8) , though some fluid will always find its way out over time, specially if you notice fluid can get into the top of the lid/over the rubber and find its way out at the attachment nubs and the ridge.
So, hoping you don't have a bad casting and find something else were!! Good luck!
Jeff M
I knew that Jeff M. would have encountered this before. Thanks for the post, you have eased my worries a bit. Just to be safe, I will do the check underneath that you mentioned. Thanks for the info.
Jeff you forgot to tell them to turn the key on so the PM is pressureized, then they can see where the fluid is comming from otherwise its just all wet under there and almost impossible to see where the fluid is comming from. :)
As for turbo wrapping I just use heavy duty alum foil. Put it on top of the down pipe to prtect the PM, around about 3/4 of the hot side of the turbo and the top side of the xover. Seems to work. Maybe I would go .001 faster with a blanket, I don't know but it's only about $3 a roll.
Jud
Wellll?..actually the ABS Unit will remain pressurized for quite a while after its shut off, even a few months as I have found from the ones I have sitting in storage, and at least 10 to 15 stops with no pump running is the average, that is why you need to depress the brake pedal 30 time to depressurize the unit before removing the lid. I was hoping that since he had lost so much fluid, there would already be wet spots somewhere to lead him to the area; at front under the ABS Unit or, at the rear with the Brake Proportioning Valve, or a brake line, have heard of these too but not as common.
If there is no turbo blanket left to put back on, a few companies sell kits that you fit yourself custom, that are made with the proper high-temp ceramic woven material, a number of owners here have installed them. Fiberglass insulation and other such things are not going to last with that much heat and you need something with some R-Value to ?insulate" things if that is the intention.
Jeff M.
maybe I'm the first to encounter this but my reservoir cover is warped and that is where I believe the leak is coming from. When I cleaned everything up, the next day it was wet around the area that the cover seals to the reservoir. Not a big deal but I will get it fixed cheap before it costs me later. Checked the things that Jeff mentioned and they don't seem to be the problem.
I am thinking that if your lid got hot enough to warp that would be extremely hot enough to do other things :? but if not well that good 8) .
Whatever the cause the GM part number for a new lid with seal is: 18060104 around $30 final cost.
Jeff M