Hey all, I saw on the W-Body message board about the tranny shifting at something that seemed ridiculously low to me. Mine shifts anywhere from... around 6K to 8K. Is that about right? If not, how can I adjust that? Sometimes to shift too, I'll have to ease off the gas. That can really be rough when the kid in the tinted civic wants to show off for his girlfriend. Thanks everyone.
It should never come close to 8K. Either your tach is messed up or something else is wrong. Pull your vacuum modulator out and see if there is fluid in it. That may be part of the problem.
It might be a little lower, but the tach def goes past the numbers past the orange and redline.
mine seems to do something like that also. On my old N/A GP it did the same thing and pretty soon after the tranny really stopped working... as in, its in gear but revs like its in nuterual and then all of the sudden grabs the gear and skips the front tires from grabbing unless i ease off the gas as soon as it happens and shift to park then back to drive. The TGP is sort of doing the same thing, it seems under WOT it doesn't shift where it should or as quickly as it should. I'm not as worried about it because I am planning a tranny swap to a 5speed this summer but it would be nice to know what the problem is... perhaps some sort of lightened or performance flywheel would help?
That might be my alternative-- I was planning on diving into a 282 swap sometime, but if my tranny is going why not just get into it this summer?? :D
I'm thinking I can do all the wrench work, but did you guys with the 5-speeds have to do any kinda of fabrication. I read somewhere something about converting axels to deal with the abs... Not real sure, couldn't find it again. Thanks
8k???? yeah i would say that is a little high! :shock:
May want to hook up a scan tool / datalogger and verify the actual RPM... on mine it looked like it was hitting 6100 but in reality only was 5500 tops. The stock TGP gauges are just heinously inaccurate. My spedometer is also the worst of any vehicle I've ever rode in... (the HUD however is accurate).
the RPMS were a little higher on the gauges than in actuality-- but the clogged CAT made the engine rev more to get up to the speed to allow the tranny to shift
thanks everyone
Before I replaced the dash in my TSTE the speedo read a little over 20% fast, and the tach read like 25-30% high. With the new dash the speedo is right on, and it appears that, if anything, the tach reads a little low. I was told the rev limiter is set to 6212rpm, and the car looks to hit the limiter at like 6100, so the tach is probably very accurate as well. However, in the 2 door tgp the speedo and tach appear to be about 7% fast...but the HUD is right on.
So the gauges being off is something that you should really expect with these cars.
Shawn
perhaps a TV cable would have helped this guy?
You engine would have many many small little pieces scattered everywhere if it was reving to 8,000 RPM, anything after about 6400 stock can do bad things. I have seen the Tach definitely high. The higher it gets the worse it seems to, its kinda hard to get a nice good shift when you want shifting manually when you don't have a clue what its turning.
Quote from: dbtk2Before I replaced the dash in my TSTE the speedo read a little over 20% fast, and the tach read like 25-30% high. With the new dash the speedo is right on, and it appears that, if anything, the tach reads a little low. I was told the rev limiter is set to 6212rpm, and the car looks to hit the limiter at like 6100, so the tach is probably very accurate as well. However, in the 2 door tgp the speedo and tach appear to be about 7% fast...but the HUD is right on.
So the gauges being off is something that you should really expect with these cars.
Shawn
I did the exact same thing and now mine is dead on too. My tach said the car was idling at 1200 RPM (after it was completely warmed up) but it sounded to much like 600 RPM to me. And the speedo was 20 MPH high but my HUD was correct. After I got My cluster back from GM the speedo is right on with my HUD and my car registers 500-600 RPM idle. But well worth every penny to get it fixed.
Who is fixing clusters? I know I saw it way back when...but I wouldn't mind sending mine in for a once over... 8)
mine is wayyyy off too. i've heard of some people resoldering it themselves and fixing things like this, but i didn't own a TGP back then and didn't pay much attention to what actually was done.
has anyone here fixed their own cluster?
only thing i fixed was the CHECK GAUGES light on my cluster by sodering, i dont think any ammount of resodering will held, but if some1 has alot of time, go for it and see if it helps
Quote from: TurboSedanmine is wayyyy off too. i've heard of some people resoldering it themselves and fixing things like this, but i didn't own a TGP back then and didn't pay much attention to what actually was done.
has anyone here fixed their own cluster?
Shawn(GnatGoSplat) posted this on the W-body board before.
"I jumpered a 1 or 10megohm resistor across the calibration resistor on my cluster and then it was pretty close to dead-on accurate."
I've been meaning to shop around for some variable resistors around that range in order to fix my speedometer.