I am looking to hear detailed accounts of owners who have VERIFIABLY ran 13 seconds in the quarter mile at an actual dragstrip, with timeslips. I have heard a lot of tales 3rd hand and I am sure a portion of them are true but I am looking for what main modifications were required to accomplish this. I will be honest and say that I have some doubts as to whether or not the stock T25 could push this 3600+# pig into the 13s.
So if you ran 13s, what was your timeslip, what was the vehicle's weight, what boost did you run, what fuel, what tires, and finally what main modifications made you so much faster than a standard "Chip and air filter" TGP that is common here (like mine). Thanks,
I am too curious.. I at the moment just have custom air filter and top gun thanks to jeff. I dont know what my quarter is though.
PM JeffM his car is running 13.5 in the quarter with the stock t-25 turbo. He can probably give you a list as to what you can do to the car along with a list of parts that you can bolt on. I plan on hitting 13's by the end of summer. Here is just some of what I'm doing.
TopGun 160 chip
Custom Air Intake setup (Home Depot Special)
Phantom Grip LSD
FFP dogbones and underdrive pulley
A/C and power steering unit removal
Chill Factory fuel pressure regulator (www.chillfactory.us)
Chill Factory Mr. Freeze CO2 charged front mount intercooler
Stronger Drive Axles
MSD Ignition Coil Packs
Accel 8.8mm Plug wires
NGK Iradium Spark Plugs($9.50 a Piece)
3" Exhaust Straight through Hi-Flow Cat with no mufflers
:twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
If that doesn't put me down in the 13's I don't know what will.
When I get done with my STE it should be running consistant mid-high 13's on the stock turbo (I hope).
I will hopefully have all of these mods:
K&N Filter on Turbo
2.5" Exhaust w/no cat spliting into 2 straight through 2" mufflers
Removed A/C Fins
TopGun 160 Chip
160 Degree Thermostat
FFP Dogbones
FFP Underdrive Pulley
3100 Topend Swap (heads, intakes, throttle body)
1.6:1 Roller Rockers
Custom Headers
Custom Larger Crossover (to try to get exhaust pressure down)
If I don't hit 13's consistantly with that, I'll be pissed!!!
Shawn
Quote from: ShuGTXTurboPM JeffM his car is running 13.5 in the quarter with the stock t-25 turbo. He can probably give you a list as to what you can do to the car along with a list of parts that you can bolt on.
JeffM is a great guy and his dedication to the McLaren Turbo Grand Prix is unrivaled. So with that said and with all due respect, your statement leaves a number of serious questions regarding the validity of your claim.
First off, the Garrett T-25 stock turbo appears to only be stretchable to about 250HP-275HP tops. According to information on http://www.dune-buggy.com/turbo/turbo.htm, they say it's "good for 125-210bhp, maybe up to 250hp." So how did he manage to get an extra 40% air flow out of the T25 over what is beleived to be the limit of this turbo? I've never seen the answer to this question. Let's allow for the possibility that the motor was enhanced internally to flow the extra air that the T25 compressor cannot (perhaps a stroked crankshaft, better flowing heads and camshaft); in such a situation how would this extra charge mass be exhausted when the stock crossover outlet and T25 turbine housing presents two of the largest bottlenecks in a STOCK power level? This also has not been explained to us.
We also have no answers as to what fuel, what timing, what boost, or what other major modifications would make his car so much faster than any similar TGP (stock turbo equipped). For years now, I've been hearing reports that he ran 13s. If Jeff wanted to share this information, I think he would have done it by now...
So while he may have run 13s (verification/confirmation of those results remain to be seen), he hasn't let on to the "secret" and it certainly is NOT representative of what any board member might reproduce with THEIR TGP and the stock turbo, so it's a pretty worthless point of reference as far as I'm concerned.
Hopefully someone else can still provide a quantifiable report of their car running 13 seconds with a timeslip and the story on how it was accomplished, and especially the steps that any regular TGP owner might take to achieve the same results.
Quote from: dbtk2When I get done with my STE it should be running consistant mid-high 13's on the stock turbo (I hope).
I will hopefully have all of these mods:
K&N Filter on Turbo
2.5" Exhaust w/no cat spliting into 2 straight through 2" mufflers
Removed A/C Fins
TopGun 160 Chip
160 Degree Thermostat
FFP Dogbones
FFP Underdrive Pulley
3100 Topend Swap (heads, intakes, throttle body)
1.6:1 Roller Rockers
Custom Headers
Custom Larger Crossover (to try to get exhaust pressure down)
If I don't hit 13's consistantly with that, I'll be pissed!!!
Shawn
To help achieve your goal, I would recommend that when you do the Custom Larger Crossover, you do it with a T3 flange and put on a larger turbo, for I beleive this mod will give you all the performance of the rest of your mods put together, for 1/3 their collective price. The only problem is fabricating a downpipe but it should be a snap compared to fabricating custom headers. On the other hand if you were someone to not do any custom fabricating, I'd recommend trying some of the largest T2 style bolt-on turbos you can find, they do exist if you look carefully...
in sizes up to 450HP :shock:
Shawn, I'd drop the headers out of your equation. Turbo cars tend to not like them as much, especially single turbo V-engines. The reason is the exhaust pulses. Unless you have equal length headres(which are impossible in our engine compartments), you would actually lose power over the stock manifolds. I would port the stockers, and go for more time on the x-over pipe.
Speaking of the crossover, why in the hello do these things need those stupid bellows joints? I see no reason wht they can't be solid pipe, anyone else have a better answer? I'm looking to do the same whne I build my spare engine for the turbo I have from my Supra project.
When you rev the motor, it likes to rock back and forth. The bellows are flex joints which allow movement for the motor. No flex joints, cracked pipe from stress.
Back to the subject. Here's my list of mods. I'm hoping to break into the high 14s this year with good tires and traction. I ran a best of 15.09 while spinning all the way through first. I need better tires :oops:
TopGun 180 chip.
Cross-X Pipe.
180 thermo.
FFP Underdrive pully.
FFP Upper motormounts with polyurethane bushings.
CarSound 2.5" in/out high-flow cat.
Dynomax 2.5" in/out bullet mufflers.
2.5" Cat-Back exhaust.
K&N filter on turbo.
Blitz Super Sound BOV.
DEI turbo insulation wrap.
DEI intake tube cover. It's placed around the upper intake pipe to keep the heat from the turbo out of the freshly cooled intake.
Removed a/c condensor.
Spring Plans:
Custom front mount intercooler.
Lighter 17" 17lbs/wheels.
Z-Rated tires.
Light weight race seats.
Hopefully I'll break into the mid-low 14s with the spring plans.
My thoughts on the flex joints in the x-over. :roll: Yes they are there to prevent stress cracks when the motor rocks. BUT the front and rear of the motor rock together. So, if the turbo bracket was built so it could flex, why couldn't the x-over be solid?
The metal and fittment tolerances. Stainless expands at a higher rate than regular steel. The bellows allow for the turbo, and both manifolds to line up properly and seal. I've seen it that without the bellows the metal will crush and fail, and there can be leaks because of bad alignment. It has NOTHING TO DO WITH THE MOVEMENT OF THE MOTOR. The turbo, crossover, and downpipe move together as a unit. The downpipe is attached to the back of the engine and uses a donut gasket with spring stud retainers to connect to the exhaust. The movement is there for the engine rocking.
The original bellows failed mostly because they were of poor quality, and moisture buildup. Straight pipes would probably crack in a similar fashion. At the very least it would crumple.
Chris
Quote from: Chris AIt has NOTHING TO DO WITH THE MOVEMENT OF THE MOTOR.
Finally someone said it. Thanks Chris. I've been wanting to say something about this for a while now but didn't want to get into a pissing match with anyone.
Quote from: 4PASNUQuote from: Chris AIt has NOTHING TO DO WITH THE MOVEMENT OF THE MOTOR.
Finally someone said it. Thanks Chris. I've been wanting to say something about this for a while now but didn't want to get into a pissing match with anyone.
Me too, especially since I can?t be everywhere all the time to help out, nor want to spend time arguing a learning curve :roll: . From previous owners who have welded their crossover pipe solid, and in sending them to me as a restorable pipe/core for mine :evil: , I have found out first hand, and painfully as well when it comes to using these solid pipes, that the expansions and contractions destroy these solid pipes, and I mean destroys them from nearly collapsed pipe sections, horrible bends and deformed pipe sections, and huge gapping cracks, bad idea to go solid specially if you do not have some compensation for this. And a little info on what puts the pipes into extreme temperature cycles and expansion/contractions is the range of exhaust heat/or lack of heat going from WOT power runs to deceleration fuel cutoff/DFCO. Obvious we understand the heat in the exhaust from running safely rich under boost, but then toss in the computer shutting the fuel off during DFCO when under heavy deceleration brings an exhaust that has no heat from combustion, damn cold as compared to regular exhaust temps cruising or during a power pull. And before you get mad at the DFCO, think of its benefit in cooling down a hot piston and combustion chamber readying it for the next blast down the road :twisted: . Very glad to hear maximage make this point of not just throwing some headers on the engine, managing the exhaust pulses is very important, very much so!! That also includes the crossover pipe as well!!! Crossover pipe you say??yes it is receiving exhaust pulses as well and if not built to coordinate/time properly those pulses, exhaust pulse from each side of the block will meet against each other at the Y joining part of the crossover pipe! Looking at the design and pipes of the stock OEM crossover, the short end has nothing to complain about, smooth transition bend all the way through, the long end makes a nice gradual bend as well, with a very small single bulge on the short radius of the curve, no effect in disturbing the air flow!! All in all a design that compromises little aside from poor workmanship and components that can be rectified! Now if we had a bigger turbo that was showing some signs of turbo lag, some properly designed headers would be of value but how much :?: without tests you won't know, but like anything, if you don?t got money to make your car run right (fix overheating, fix a tranny, fix whatever) then you should not be spending time and money on coming up with custom parts to go faster yet, make it run right before you make it run faster!
Bottom line, people need to first not get mad at the items on their car 8) , but keep an open mind and just ask how good they are, and if there is better, but MORE importantly, just how much better something could be AND worth the time and effort and $$ to make or buy it.
Jeff M
Quote from: 90TGPWhen you rev the motor, it likes to rock back and forth. The bellows are flex joints which allow movement for the motor. No flex joints, cracked pipe from stress.
The cross-over pipe flange (where the turbo bolts to) is a fixed mount to a tranny bracket. As said by others they are not there for flex during the tilting of the motor. An analogy that might explain what the bellows are for goes something like this :wink:... Remember every Thanksgiving when people would fight over the wish-bone? Two people would put their thumbs on the top of the wish-bone where it comes together. Then you and the other person would put their fingers towards the bottom of the bone. You and the other person would pull until the bone snapped. Your thumbs don't move...but your fingers pry the bones apart until the bone breaks. One person would get the fat portion of the bone the other would get just the skinny portion.
Ok...picture the wish-bone which is now the
cross-over. Your fingers are now the heads and exhaust manifold. Your thumb is the turbo mounting flange and tranny bracket.
If the wish-bone isn't dry it will
flex and not break right? But if the bone is dry and rigid it will snap real clean. Well if you make the cross-over solid (rigid) it will work against itself with the extreme heat expansions and contractions and break or mangle itself... 8)
Quote from: maximageShawn, I'd drop the headers out of your equation. Turbo cars tend to not like them as much, especially single turbo V-engines. The reason is the exhaust pulses. Unless you have equal length headres(which are impossible in our engine compartments), you would actually lose power over the stock manifolds. I would port the stockers, and go for more time on the x-over pipe.
I am getting headers only because I have to get custom manifolds for the 3100 heads anyways (different shaped exhuast ports). Otherwise I would just leave the stock manifolds on there. So I am hoping to have a guy make me some headers and a custom crossover (since the crossover is suposedly the biggest exhaust restriction we have)
QuoteTo help achieve your goal, I would recommend that when you do the Custom Larger Crossover, you do it with a T3 flange and put on a larger turbo, for I beleive this mod will give you all the performance of the rest of your mods put together, for 1/3 their collective price. The only problem is fabricating a downpipe but it should be a snap compared to fabricating custom headers. On the other hand if you were someone to not do any custom fabricating, I'd recommend trying some of the largest T2 style bolt-on turbos you can find, they do exist if you look carefully... in sizes up to 450HP
I am planning on going to a larger turbo among many other things eventually, but I want to hit 13's on the stock turbo and what I listed above first, just to see if I can. If not, then a larger turbo, as well as a few other things will be going on. I haven't been able to find any big enough to support 450hp with the stock flanges though. Are there any in the 300-350hp range with the stock flanges? If so, let me know where I can find one, preferably fairly cheap, I would be very interested.
In my dads TGP I ran a 14.819 @ 92.72 with JUST a Topgun 160, 160 T-stat, and no cat, and it backed that up with a 14.842 @ 92.62, so it wasn't a fluke run or anything. Everything else was stock, even the VERY restrictive stock air intake. Not to mention that it needed a tune-up BAD at that point. We put new plugs in it, and a K&N filter on the turbo, and there was VERY noticable difference, I would say 15-20hp. It feels like a ~14.5 car now. And my STE was significantly quicker stock than that one ever was, so I am hoping it will perform at least as well as that one did with the same mods. So I find it hard to believe that with a little bit better launch, an underdrive pulley to reduce drag, a much better flowing intake and heads, and a larger crossover that I can't pull 13.9's consistantly. Maybe you're right, maybe I can't, but I'm sure as hell gonna try. I'm 16, I'm too stupid to know any better.
Shawn
Quote from: dbtk2Maybe you're right, maybe I can't, but I'm sure as hell gonna try. I'm 16, I'm too stupid to know any better.
Shawn
Give 'em hell man!! 8)
Quote from: dbtk2I am getting headers only because I have to get custom manifolds for the 3100 heads anyways (different shaped exhuast ports). Otherwise I would just leave the stock manifolds on there. So I am hoping to have a guy make me some headers and a custom crossover (since the crossover is suposedly the biggest exhaust restriction we have)
Did you ever think to just mill the exhaust manifolds out to match the "D" shaped ports from the 3X00 heads?? That's what I'm planing on doing if I ever do a 3x00 head/intake swap.
Go for broke shawn!
I will say this about the headers idea though. Unless you have a fabrication artist that is good enough to do equal lenghters, and make them fit the TGP engine bay(which from what my shop has determined is nearly impossible), port match your stockers, or grab a set of 3100 mani's and TGP manis and hack them both apart and make them work. If you try to run non-equal length headers on a Turbo car, you will lose a LOT of power, as well as possbily hurt the turbo, because the pulses will be way off. There is a fine balance in working with a turbocharged engine. A lot of people have found this information out the hard(and expensive) way. Trust us on this.
Quote from: maximageIf you try to run non-equal length headers on a Turbo car, you will lose a LOT of power, as well as possbily hurt the turbo, because the pulses will be way off. Trust us on this.
Ok I have a question. How could non-equal length headers be worse than the stock TGP exhaust manifolds? The #1 and #2 are the only exhaust ports that are given direction towards the turbo. #2, 3, 4, 5, 6 run into a "T". 2 through 6's exhaust pulse would hit the T and then go both towards the other exhaust ports and towards the turbo. If one of the pulses is going towards an opposing exhaust port...wouldn't that cause more restriction for that pulse? 8)
With the manifold, it all collects right there in the manifold, therefore reducing the pulses, and making the turbo see a more steady flow. If you ran unequal lenght headers, even with the collector at the end, you are still bringing each individual cylinder to the turbo itself, causing each one to pulse at the turbo. But since some are reall shotr in distance, and some a re long, you essentially wind up with 2 big pulses, and nothing between. Ever listen to a v-6 or 8 on open headers? It pulses out of each side, and has a lag between them.
Quote from: maximageor grab a set of 3100 mani's and TGP manis and hack them both apart and make them work.
Thats what I am thinking about doing, but I would think that would be fairly difficult to do also because you would have to make it smooth so it flows well, correct? Or should I just cut both manifolds in half and weld them together? I can easily do that, I just figured (not being the most knowledgable about turbos) that headers would be better than manifolds. If the headers will make it worse, then I will get some manifolds custom fabricated, but being used to supercharged cars, I didn't think headers would hurt anything. Stupid power adders that rely on the exhaust!
Shawn
why not just make a set of log manifolds so you wouldn't have to screw w/ frankensteining 2 mani's.
Quote from: TookyCat
So while he may have run 13s (verification/confirmation of those results remain to be seen), he hasn't let on to the "secret" and it certainly is NOT representative of what any board member might reproduce with THEIR TGP and the stock turbo, so it's a pretty worthless point of reference as far as I'm concerned.
Hopefully someone else can still provide a quantifiable report of their car running 13 seconds with a timeslip and the story on how it was accomplished, and especially the steps that any regular TGP owner might take to achieve the same results.
Granted JeffM may not be willing to share all of his secrets that he has done to his car but I'm sure he would be more than willing to help out and give pointers in the area of improvement. As far as the validity of his 13 second quarter mile times check out his website there is a lovely picture of the time displayed on his G-Tech Pro which is acurate to within 1/10 of a second. :D :headbang:
Quote from: ShuGTXTurboGranted JeffM may not be willing to share all of his secrets that he has done to his car but I'm sure he would be more than willing to help out and give pointers in the area of improvement. As far as the validity of his 13 second quarter mile times check out his website there is a lovely picture of the time displayed on his G-Tech Pro which is acurate to within 1/10 of a second. :D :headbang:
Not that I don't believe his car is that fast or anything, but I have run a 12.1 @ 130 on my G-tech pro competition in my STE, so I tend not to believe those much.
Shawn
imo, g-tech = devil... wrecked my tgp testing w/ one of them....
From every forum I've been in; the GTech is not and has not been an acceptable method of verifying a cars performance. Especially when extraordinary times are in question. You may say it's accurate to within 1/10th of a second but what happens if the road you are on has a downward slope to it? Or the unit is not perfectly (0.00) levelled before you run the car?
I agree Jeff normally is willing to help and give pointers for improvement but unfortunately has not replied to my significant post effort on the "Take the TGP to the Next Step of Performance" thread posted over a month ago... :( It was the most-viewed thread for the last Month, but maybe he missed it...?
And for the record I am also not saying his car isn't that fast, only pointing out that he hasn't provided sufficient evidence to prove that it is that fast, and when making an uncommon claim (i.e. a 13 second TGP and/or a TGP running 1.5 seconds faster 0-60 than similarly equipped cars), the burden of proof lies on the person making the claim.
Well some people raise the BS flag and the person being called out would go to the track to prove them wrong. I know I would! 8)
5 days and no timeslips. I am beginning to wonder if anybody on this board has run 13s? The best my TGP ran was 14.7, I'm willing to post the timeslip if I have to; I sure didn't think I'd have the "fastest timeslip" when I wrote this post :roll: :oops:
I wont post a time, because I dont have slips yet. But I guaruntee you arent the fastest TGP on the site(not trying to sound like a prick....insert my evil giggle here, because I need to get my car tuned and to the track to show smoe slips!)
If my TGP isn't faster than 14.7, I'm cutting that mutherfucker in half.
Quote from: maximageBut I guaruntee you arent the fastest TGP on the site
I sure hope not!! I was posting that kind of tongue-in-cheek, that's why I made the rolly-eyes icon :)
Quote from: TookyCatFrom every forum I've been in; the GTech is not and has not been an acceptable method of verifying a cars performance. Especially when extraordinary times are in question. You may say it's accurate to within 1/10th of a second but what happens if the road you are on has a downward slope to it? Or the unit is not perfectly (0.00) levelled before you run the car?.
It depends on how you use it, I know to level mine and if you own one(?) it tells you/won?t work if its not close enough to being level! I know guys who ran these at the track and were within 2/10s, some off as much as 4/10ths but those are fast SyTys that pull the front end up enough to add the G-Force of earth's gravity to skew the G-Tech reading, the TGP don't lift that high :lol:
Quote from: TookyCatI agree Jeff normally is willing to help and give pointers for improvement but unfortunately has not replied to my significant post effort on the "Take the TGP to the Next Step of Performance" thread posted over a month ago... :( It was the most-viewed thread for the last Month, but maybe he missed it...?
You can make a significant posts if you like 8) , sure was enjoyable for many and that's all good, but first I am not sure why I am committed to reply to everything that could be talked about in such a vast subject, and that could be a huge amount if I look over the last 14 years for me at least. Next I am not done with what I would recommend to people :!: for their own mods to be done or anything I come up with or can offer up, like here there were those thinking headers, then told not to for good reasons, then heads/cams but I at least saved people from jumping the gun on that one until they resolve the stock turbo backpressure problem. I got too much going on that keeps me busy 20 hours a day and some times many 40+ hour days, but soon as I find info that is helpful/proven from tests (
is anyone else going to run tests other than me????), I will only tell what I know for sure, and ask what I don't!
Quote from: TookyCatAnd for the record I am also not saying his car isn't that fast, only pointing out that he hasn't provided sufficient evidence to prove that it is that fast, and when making an uncommon claim (i.e. a 13 second TGP and/or a TGP running 1.5 seconds faster 0-60 than similarly equipped cars), the burden of proof lies on the person making the claim.
Uhhh, what?s my motivation here??? :roll: Mike Gardner with a stock turbo, upgraded heads and cam/100 octane ran a corrected 13.56 and I have scanned time slips, I ran a 13.89 years ago with stock turbo and stock engine complete and have a time slip, then ran a 13.3 with a friends here, but once those are shown, what significance will that provide :shock: but I think it would be easier just to save me the time and stick up a BS sign :lol: on me, I won?t take offense 8), there will be a time when I will stick those up on my web site, but the times so far are what they are, veriefied or not, hell I could borrow a few 10 second time slips from my truck and say I was driving a TGP :lol: , without a movie clip, who?s to know :roll: .
Got to go, long list as always, just boxed up today an entire engine/all parts and took to the machine shop for work, cleaning and stripping and painting what is left here tonight with subframe, a-arms, tranny lines, power steering lines, radiator overflow and windshield tank clean, sand blast some aluminum parts and coat, got to pay for an eBay item I just won, need to reply to more emails, and just a NOTE, 2 months ago I cleaned out and filed all the emails in my Inbox, tonight (2 months later) my Inbox is back up to 688, fact!! I spend 80% of my time on-line doing emails fixing TGP and TSTE owners (and all those "I want to turbo XXX :lol: ) so I am sorry I can't be enjoying talking tech as much as I would like here :cry:
Jeff M
I will post my times up when I go to the track on april 4th I better be quicker than 14.7. Sorry for starting a post argument between JeffM and everybody just trying to help a little bit
Quote from: ShuGTXTurboI will post my times up when I go to the track on april 4th I better be quicker than 14.7. Sorry for starting a post argument between JeffM and everybody just trying to help a little bit
Cool 8) . I know a few around on these boards that run 14's, anywhere from 14.2 best to 15.3 worst, and I love this as it snarls people all the time like WTF!! In 1989-90 NEW TGPs where tested and ran from a 15.3 best to 16.3 worst, 7 second 0-60 best and 8.18 worst, all on TGPs with nearly new miles. So given this, add some miles and years to these TGPs and those stock times better vary even more!!!!!!! Each time I take apart another engine I find more reasons for contributors to variations in acceleration times; carbon buildup beat into the valve lip area and the valve seat in the head, some showing a little blowby/leakage, some showing a lot. Next, ring lands filled with burnt on carbon reducing the sealing effect when holding in a combustion cycle. Dark oil stain marks at the entrance to the head?s intake port, showing the port matching being off from the lower intake, some being worse than others from casting and assembly variations. I can go on, but add things from traction at the cement/asphalt (tire pressure, tire compound/old hard rubber/new sticky, wider 245mm tires than others, or not etc, lack of throttle control :roll: ), brakes dragging in the back (frozen?), tranny condition from old fluid and a mostly plugged pump screen limiting fluid pressure and volume, even worn clutches, or someone burning the piss out of one tire around the corner so they only spin one tire on a straight take off when both once spun/pulled together. More variations such as fuel quality (when tested, 75% of Detroit Gas Stations FAILED the posted octane on their pumps?.too expensive for the State to take them all to court :evil: ), to oil quality (old has more evaporation/blowby, along with the obvious), the list goes on and on but the value and point I am trying to offer here is to NOT obsesses with a lesser et time than someone else mod?d the same or not as much, many variables, many more not listed!
As for things getting tight around here, it happens :) , I don?t need or can be friends with everyone, I do what I can to help people run right before they run faster, and help in other areas when I can, we all do, I just don?t obsesses of get disgusted with my car not being perfect, that?s my job/hobby/passion to make it.....welllll close to perfect as I can.
As for the desperation to see some 13 second times, those guys can go to the 60 degree forum and pester them there as they have 13 second turbo 3.1/3.2L vehicles :lol: .
Jeff M
i sure hope im faster than a 14.7 too! lol i just spent over 800$ on parts for an engine rebuild and 850 on a gt28 turbo SUPPOSED to be good for 350 hp....flows 505cfm :) although i am runnin really junkie tires for now im spinnin the crap out of them now so i can get nice ones for summer thinkin nitto extreme 555's my budyy has them on his GTP and can barley break them loose on dry blacktop.....anybody else have an opinion on them? (since that is sorta off topic u can send it to my PM box if ya want) :wink:
btw im workin on gettin all my part numbers and stuff written down so i can put it in here for all to see everything i have down to my car
sry im not sure if i made it clear that the 800$ i spent was on parts not labor........my friend and i did all the work :lol:
The Nitto's are a great choice. Just be warry on the transmission o this modded beast, unless you go 5-speed.
Traction is my issue, or lack of traction. Got to replace those R-Rated pepboys tires this year.
i do plan on goin 5 speed....as soon as my tranny blows.....not that i want it to but when it does im just gonna put in the getrag 282....and since greg is comin here in may to do his i will have a little know how on how to do it...plus i can always ask skalor to help me with mine too since he is gonna help with gregs..... :lol:
might want to plan on doing a drive axle upgrade to. more power will break the stock axles clean in half if you dont have any slippage.
Who's making axle's? I know I'll need some shortly.
Any driveshaft shop that can do halfshafts.
Quote from: ShuGTXTurbomight want to plan on doing a drive axle upgrade to. more power will break the stock axles clean in half if you dont have any slippage.
Says who? Have you ever heard of a TGP half-shaft even bending from high torque let alone breaking? When I had the half-shafts rebuilt for the 5-speed swap the driveline shop that did them said "they looked strong as hell" and he was going to try them on his 550 HP Karman Ghia drag car. He told me the CV knuckles could use a higher tensile strength needle bearing in the rollers...but the axles themselves would handle more than a 3.1 Turbo motor could throw at them... 8)
Don't you just love overkill? :lol:
Quote from: TGPilotQuote from: ShuGTXTurbomight want to plan on doing a drive axle upgrade to. more power will break the stock axles clean in half if you dont have any slippage.
Says who? Have you ever heard of a TGP half-shaft even bending from high torque let alone breaking?
Thats what I was thinking. My dad didn't break any halfshafts in his GTP until the day he ran a 12.40. The only reason he broke it then is because beating the piss out of it. He broke it on the very first run (but at that point we weren't sure that he had broken it or no) and he kept making runs, and kept getting faster each time, even with the broken halfshaft. He even ran his best of 12.40 with the broken half-shaft. And he still drove the car home 70+ miles after that. So you're gonna tell me that a TGP with SIGNIFICANTLY less torque (my dads GTP has ~500ft.lbs.) is going to snap them clean in half, when my dads GTP barely even cracked ONE halfshaft. Yeah, the TGP's halfshafts are a LITTLE more weak because they are slightly smaller, but you can't tell me they are that much weaker!
Shawn
i have 2 half shafts layin around "just in case" lol i dont think im ever gonna need them but hey they are here for me to say that i have them....lol.......anybody want them? :roll:
Quote from: TGPilotQuote from: ShuGTXTurbomight want to plan on doing a drive axle upgrade to. more power will break the stock axles clean in half if you dont have any slippage.
Says who? Have you ever heard of a TGP half-shaft even bending from high torque let alone breaking? When I had the half-shafts rebuilt for the 5-speed swap the driveline shop that did them said "they looked strong as hell" and he was going to try them on his 550 HP Karman Ghia drag car. He told me the CV knuckles could use a higher tensile strength needle bearing in the rollers...but the axles themselves would handle more than a 3.1 Turbo motor could throw at them... 8)
mclaren18psi(I think that's his name) posted something about "blowing out" a half-shaft when running ET streets at the drag strip, maybe he can give us more details.....
I personnally dont think that equal length headers in a turbo app is that big of a deal. In fact I dont really see many turbo headers that are equal length. The main reason being that the exhaust system before the turbo is under a lot of pressure. Especially during spool up time before that turbo gets going. I've heard (on SyTy's) that the pressure in the exhaust can be as much as 40psi. To me under that much pressure the pulses really wouldnt matter anymore. Id think that headers would hurt performance because they move too much air and therefore kill you spool up time. Im not an expert or anything but thats just the way I think of it. I very well could be wrong.
More air moved in the right way is EXCELLENT for spool. The more air you move, the faster and harder you push the turbo, therefore, the faster it will spin up. As far as headers, equal lenght headers make a "slight" improvment over manifolds, but unless you are a serious racer looking for every little bit of power(in which case you probably arent driving a TGP), they are a waste of a LOT of money. I'd stick to ported manifolds.