Ok so I will be pulling the block on Wednesday hopefully, heads are going to the shop before so I can have them ready to install when the block is cleaned and ready to go. I have some questions on what I should be doing here as far as replacement goes..
The guy at the machine shop told me ~$300 to disassemble, clean and glaze, then reassemble the block with new cam, lifters, main and rod bearings, etc.
I want to do this myself though. I have the service manual so torque specs are taken care of, but I've never done this so I'm a newbie and need advice on what else I should replace. The machinist told me to remove the freeze plugs and something else, and says he wouldn't install the old oil pump because of the metal from the cam lobe. Also cam tensioner and chain. Anything else that should be done? I'm fairly sure I will be doing this all myself so I can save the cash for parts. Thanks.
Ryan If you want to do it yourself read section 6A about 6 times. The 300 for what you mentioned sounds pretty fair. Just make sure that the oil gallery plugs and frost plugs are removed before boiling the block. A diseased cam puts crap everywhere. If you are going to slug it yourself make sure you have marked the rods with a little grinder on the outside of the rod and the cap so you know where they go Do this regarless.. Don?t stamp them. Glazing is fine as long as you don?t have a ridge at the top. It should be ridge reamed or your top ring will slap the ridge.Not preffered.
As far as putting the cam bearings in I would let them do it unless you can get ahold of a tool or make one as I did.
There are 100 ways to screw up a rebuild. Not trying to discourge you and I am sure you will get a lot of help here.
You havent told us anything. What lobe/s went out on your cam. What does your 3rd main look like. Do you have to grind the crank. How much crap is in your oil pump. Have you cut your filter apart to see what is in it. Have you measured your pistons to see if they are worn out and need replacing. (Don?t have them expanded).You have a long way to go before you can be advised.
Any thing else.
Jud
Jud -
The lobe on the stock cam was for cylinder #5, I believe it was the intake lobe, which would make it lobe 10. I have not removed the engine yet, the car only had 38k so I'm not too worried about the pistons being worn, but as I have been told the only way to reinstall the pistons is with new rings. :?: Total dissasembly is only a week or so away, I will hopefully have the block out by Saturday night, so I can start tearing it apart and finding my problem. The heads will go to the shop Thursday for resurfacing and resealing, and I will ask for an inspection in them as to find a cause for cam failure. I took a quick glance at your oiler for 9 and 10, it seems like a great idea and I will most likely be doing something like that. What connections did you use? Is that an oil passage that it connects to? First time doing anything of the sort, but have a lot of help here, but those who have actually done it with these same engines makes me feel more comfortable taking advice. Is that what saved your cam? The last time you changed it is that what you did to insure proper lubrication? Have you upgraded without issues or are you with the stock still?
Well Ryan lobe 10 (exhaust)is the one that goes out. I'am surprised that it went out in 38k miles. :roll: You must have the lowest milage TGP in the world unless it's a rebuilt engine.
I would check your pistons and pin bores carefully as you have had like grinding dust in your motor. Pistons are 100 and about 30 to swap them on the rods. And yes you should use new rings.
The oiler only does 10. a simple tee and you could do 9 and 10. I contemplated doing them all on the back bank.
The tubing and fittings are from the hardware store, cheap stuff, less than 5. When you get your intake off you will see three plugs on the oil gallery.
I used the center one because the fitting wont clear the block on the outside ones. I just drilled and tapped a 1/4 pipe plug to 1/8 pipe in the center. That allowed the fitting to clear the block.
That cam was in before I put the oiler on. Having trouble before I checked the pushrods for rotation and 10 wasen't rotating.
Had a few issues. holes in pistons bent rods, runied bearings flat cams. :( The cam is 487 lift by 280+/- duration with the matching springs. I wouldn't even worry about springs unless you are going over like 450 lift, or your going to twist it over 6k.
Well get that thing apart.
Jud