Alright, somebody has to know something to help me here. 8)
About a week and a half ago I was stopped at a stop sign, and my car stalled when I started to move again. Started it again, but it would die as soon as it was put into gear unless you were constantly feeding it gas. Changed a bunch of parts and checked some things out (new plugs, good wires, new TPS, new CPS, new IAC, new O2, good MAP sensor, vacuum lines are alright) and had a little missing issue (Luke cracked the ceramic on a spark plug putting it back in... geez).
Started driving the car again today after a replacement plug, and it was great for its first three trips. Parked it after work, and 3 hours later it won't start. First attempt got it started, but it soon died. Second attempt it started, but it died as soon as I put it in gear. Now it won't turn over at all. Fuel pump is good, FPR holds vacuum. Luke is thinking crossover or injectors. We're going to check the injectors this weekend when we have more time. It's the original crossover, but it was repaired previously. Not sure how (Paul, you out there? What'd they do?). Any ideas, suggestions, helpful comments, words of encouragement, pointing and laughing, or anything else would be greatly appreciated. I'm completely at a loss. :cry:
Don't know what you've done to the car as far as mods or anything, but my car was having a similar problem. It would stall anytime your foot was not on the gas. Have you tried starting it with you foot just barely pressing on the gas? That always worked before I fixed my problem. I ended up cleaning the IAC sensor on the TB and the sensor on the side of the plenum and after resetting the computer it idled ok, but it still stalled sometimes at stopsigns and wouldn't start every once in a while unless my foot was in it. A TopGun 160 chip fixed that problem and the car runs and idles smoothly as ever. The real problem is probably the crossover, but that fixed my problem temporarily anyways (been like 4-5 months now).
I'm guessing it is the IAC sensor or something like that. A chip, whether it just be a drivability chip, or a TopGun chip, would greatly reduce the stalling at stoplights and such that these cars so often do, if you don't already have one.
Shawn
Should have mentioned that earlier.... I have a TopGun 160. No other mods really, unless you count the 160 t-stat and my K&N.
The IAC has been changed out already. I'll try your little starting trick... but I have a feeling the car isn't really driveable once/if I get it started. We're kind've thinking about swapping Luke's crossover into mine. It'd definately clear up any doubts about the crossover causing the problem.
Well, the thing is, the crossover itself doesn't cause the car to run bad. Yes, the crossover causes 02 sensor to go bad, but the leaking crossover itself doesn't cause the car to run bad. The crosssover kills the 02 sensor. If you put a new 02 sensor in your bad crossover it will tell you if thats the problem because the car will run better until the crossover kills the 02 sensor, which could be like 20k miles. The car will run rich, because the 02 sensor is going to be reading that leaking air, but if the 02 sensor is the problem, then a new one will fix it temporarily, thus telling you thats the problem. Just a suggestion as tearing the whole crossover off is much more difficult than unbolting an 02 sensor.
Shawn
I tried to start the car this morning after letting it sit all night. It fired right up, but ran for a second, and then just died. Wouldn't start again after that, just turns over.
The IAC sensor in the car is one that had been in mine for a while. When i had my problems last month, that was one of the parts I swapped out, and I kept the old one, as I didn't know if it was bad. I'm thinking about cleaning up the one that was on her car and putting it back in and doing an idle relearn.
That actually sounds just like a crank sensor from your post luke. Have you checked it yet?
It's been replaced.. but I guess it's worth checking again.
The car is finally back up and running.
After a new crossover pipe, new IAC, and a new injector, the car finally runs the way it should. Flushed the cooling system and got all the Dex-cool out of it, and put the green stufff back in like it should.
And, I FINALLY get my garage back! :mrgreen: :drinking: :silly:
Was it what we talked about? 8)
kittie
You problen sounds like its the ICM. (Ignition Control Module) It's under the coil paks. You can remove it and take it to a parts store like AutoZone and have them test it for you. Tell them to run about 5 or 6 tests one right after the other. The first 2 test might show the ICM being Ok, but after it heats up, it would fail.
If the ICM went completely, you can tell by hooking up a scantool, you will not get any RPM's reading on the scan as the car is cranking. Because there is no signal from the ICM to the ECM.[/i]
ICM was fine..
I even put the ICM and coils from my car (all new) in and it made no difference.
Yes Kenny, it was.
was the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) checked?
Like Luke said, finally running again!! :D :D :D :D
Definitely good to be driving my baby after over a month and around five or six hundred bucks. Part of me wants to total up the receipts, but part of me doesn't feel like being even more pissed off. :x
Looks like it all boiled down to a leaking crossover, bad IAC, and failing injector. And of course an empty gas tank... haha
So, yes, Luke can finally have his precious garage back (and his ever-so-lovely Suzuki Samauri that I've been driving), and I finally get to enjoy my vehicle. I've probably driven it 2 weeks in the 2 months I've had it. Ah, the joys of the TGP.
Anyway, thanks to everyone who gave me their two-cents worth. Every piece of advice helps.
Quote from: LukeZ34Yes Kenny, it was.
Glad I could help! :drinking: