Okay 1st I replaced the thermo with stock 195, replaced the wp, replaced the cts (by TB), flushed the radiator, replaced with 50/50 green coolant, replaced the radiator cap, new belt tensioner and the temp still climbs when idling. When i start to drive for a distance or on the highway the temp stays 1 bar below half but if i sit it goes up immediately. Both fans work and cut on just past the half mark but they still are not enough it still gets hot. i was gonna do a manual fan switch but thats worthless because the engine gets hot (I guess the guage sender might be not working right) with both fans on. The only other thing I could possible think is the sensor connected to the radiator is bad. I called to get a price on the radiator which is NOT LEAKING and they said $1325. I was laughing my ass off!!!!!!! HELLLLLLLLLPPPPP :cry:
If the Guage reads correctly during normal temps. it is probably write at higher temps. I would recommend adding an extra fan in front of the radiators and put in a auto temp sensor or a manual switch. This is also helps keep the trans. cool which will extend its life. You live in a hotter area of the country like I do so keeping the cool requires extra effort.
I have also used "Water wetter" product with some noticable benefit.
Quote from: 1trucavalierThe only other thing I could possible think is the sensor connected to the radiator is bad. I called to get a price on the radiator which is NOT LEAKING and they said $1325. I was laughing my ass off!!!!!!! HELLLLLLLLLPPPPP :cry:
Don't laugh, thats a good price on a NEW one! Call the dealer, then start laughing when they say $2100.
The sensor on the side of the radiator is a low coolan/corrosivity sensor. It has nothing to do with overheating. Most likely since your fans work fine, and the coolant and temp sensors are new, the radiator is clogged up. Flushing the radiator will do no good, and few places can or will rod them out anymore. Guys here have found prices from $225 (amazing) to $500 to get radiators recored. I have seen very few in good condition, especially lower mileage ones as their maintenece is neglected. With the size of this radiator, you should have no problems keeping cool. If you have trouble finding a place to recore them, I have cores here and can have one made for you. My guys aren't the cheapest though, i've heard of cheaper, but I can't find anyone around me who is cheaper.
Chris
I had a new core built for $324. It was worth it though. Sitting on interstate in traffic waiting to get through road constructin the car will start heating up but never goes over the fan turn on temp. Mostly when it hits 195 the therm. opens and she cools down to around 160.
I also put in a new heater core and water pump when I did the radiator.
I have it taken apart now replacing the heater core, so if it still gets hot its got to be the radiator. I am going to have to check out your shop where is it? send me an IM or e-mail.
I am confused as to how you came to the diagnosis that if it still gets hot after the heater core is replaced, then it is the Radiator? Your heater core can assist in cooling the motor when you have it set to full hot and the fan blasting...it is just another radiator, just smaller to heat the cabin. It serves no practical purpose of cooling the engine though, that is strictly the radiator. If you have a hard time getting the cabin temp up in winter when the engine is at operating temp, then that is when you may have a heater core problem. Just curious... 8)
sorry! let me explain. I took the interior where the heater core is out all the way down to the heater core. I haven't replaced it yet. The engine was hot even after sitting 2-3 hrs so I couldn't get my hands in to reach the heater hose clamps so I just threw everything inside. I am gonna change the core after work today. If it still gets hot then there is nothing else that I can possibly replace but the radiator. as you know if the tiny fins in the core are block for any reason the coolant won't flow to its specified capacity at idle so I figured after 13yrs just replace it. I also need to get that 160deg. Does jeff make them custom or is it off a v-8 thats the same size. I called every muscle car shop and they don't have em for 60deg v-6. What about replacing the radiator with a non-turbo unit??
Have fun getting a non-turbo radiator in. They are longer and need the space that the intercooler uses. They are also thicker for increased capacity. I imagine it could be done but I don't think I'd do it.
capacity at idle so I figured after 13yrs just replace it.
I guess I can follow that logic, but doubt it would affect it.
I also need to get that 160deg. Does jeff make them custom or is it off a
I don't know where jeff gets them, but my brother got one from a speed shop, i think it was hypertech branded, powerstat, $15. I'll see if I can find the part number but doubt it.
Chris
well I finally replaced the heater core last sunday and the car still gets hot so its got to be the radiator
Have the Radiator shop, rod the radiator... if it isn't corroded up that will fix it, if it needs recored send it to Chris A... :drinking:
I need to know what our radiator is made out off. Is it copper/alum etc.... I found a place down the street from me called MT vernon radiator and they said if the radiator is not leaking or damaged they would acid dip etc... it to clean out any gunk and corrosion they just needed to know what the material it was made out of. Also today I am going to pick up two more fans to put in the front of the radiator. So it will be 4 fans. They are free so its costing me nothing.
4 fans...why bother having a 3.1 Turbo under the hood....just use the fans as propulsion! :lol: :lol: Just giving you shit...sounds like serious over-kill to me. I run the secondary fan constantly to move air over the inter-cooler, but it still moves a little air across the radiator. I hardly ever hear my Primary fan kick on unless I have the A/C on or I am sitting in traffic on a 95*+ day. Get your radiator taken care of, make sure you burp the cooling system, and make sure you have a new thermostat in there and it should be just fine... 8)
the fan thing was only if after the radiator was fixed and it still gets hot I would have no other choice because everything else has been replaced. I did burp the system also everytime I flushed or replaced a part and no air. WTFFFF is blowing me!
That thing will sound like a taxiing C-130 when you pull into a parking lot! :lol: :lol:
wells its like this you can either overheat and blow a headgasket or sound like a plane!!! of course if the radiator is fixed i won't have to go to drastic measures.
Your Rad. is copper. I see no one has told you that yet... :drinking:
Quote from: 1trucavalierSo it will be 4 fans. They are free so its costing me nothing.
I'd like to see 2 more fans shoved in there. The main fan is capable 2000 cfm :shock:
The radiator is copper and brass. I think the end tanks and fittings are brass and the core is copper.