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MODIFICATIONS => Performance => Topic started by: GangstGP on October 15, 2005, 10:58:36 PM

Title: Lower engine mount rebuild
Post by: GangstGP on October 15, 2005, 10:58:36 PM
Just found out that you can refill the lower engine and tranny mounts with 3M Window Weld

Anybody worked with this stuff? Just stole this info from another forum (60*v-6.com) to share with you guys.
Title: Re: Lower engine mount rebuild
Post by: Jeff M on October 15, 2005, 11:45:45 PM
Quote from: GangstGPJust found out that you can refill the lower engine and tranny mounts with 3M Window Weld

Anybody worked with this stuff? Just stole this info from another forum (60*v-6.com) to share with you guys.

I would NOT do that!!  The one on the tranny side is solid rubber, and cheap$$  The one on the engine side is a little more money but that one is fluid dampened, and once it splits it can loose the internal fluid, and no glue is going to grab well to this oily stuff!

Jeff M
Title: Lower engine mount rebuild
Post by: GangstGP on October 15, 2005, 11:51:00 PM
I know, I have heard of the mount being fluid filled. But how does that work? I never could figure out how they managed to fill it with fluid?

Mine looked like it was just some goop dried in to a link thingy.
Title: Lower engine mount rebuild
Post by: Jeff M on October 16, 2005, 12:56:57 PM
Quote from: GangstGPI know, I have heard of the mount being fluid filled. But how does that work? I never could figure out how they managed to fill it with fluid?

Mine looked like it was just some goop dried in to a link thingy.

Well just rubber alone can only do so much absorbing vibration, so they add a thick hydraulic fluid sealed inside the rubber to do a better job at absorbing engine vibration.  As for how it is made, well go visit the plant :lol: , they have the empty rubber mold and use a machine to insert the fluid, then with the same heat they used to make the rubber mold, they seal up the fluid entry point, not something the diy'er can do nor should try, I mean if you go to all the trouble of taking the part out, why not just use new :wink:  Fluid dampening is also used in other areas, CD shuttles and CD players have a gooey center inside a rubber mounting connection that is used to secure the CD transport to the chassis, Alpine came up with the first and best, others use it now too.

Jeff M
Title: Lower engine mount rebuild
Post by: GangstGP on October 16, 2005, 09:02:14 PM
Oh, nevermind then. I was thinking that it should be stiffer than stock anyway, and maybe that would help it hook up better.

It would probably be a waste of time. Other cars got solid lower mounts but ours is better because they are fluid filled. that what you are saying?
Title: Lower engine mount rebuild
Post by: mfewtrail on October 16, 2005, 09:25:20 PM
Quote from: GangstGPOh, nevermind then. I was thinking that it should be stiffer than stock anyway, and maybe that would help it hook up better.

It would probably be a waste of time. Other cars got solid lower mounts but ours is better because they are fluid filled. that what you are saying?

The fluid filled mounts are only better at absorbing vibration. If you want a solid engine mount, they're available from NAPA auto chains under the brand "Balkamp."  If you go to NAPA, make sure to take the mount out of the box before buying it and shake it to see if you hear fluid. I know people with later model GP's have gotten hydraulic mounts that were placed in the boxes for the solid mounts(not sure if that's an issue with ours, but it doesn't hurt to check to make sure you're getting the right part).
Title: Lower engine mount rebuild
Post by: Jeff M on October 16, 2005, 09:35:15 PM
Well some believe that solid motor mounts launch better and make the car faster :? but with stock mounts the engine moves/rocks maybe an inch :lol: and is an occurance that lasts too brief to be timed.  And someone that is doing any amount of brake torque/brake stand/spooling up the turbo a little/loading the engine against the torque converter before they race, is not going to have any play in the motor mounts before they take off.  I had a buddy here that made his own urethane mounts years ago/before they came out or were talked about, I don't really see mounts adding much of anything other than making the car/driver feel the motor shaking more, and of course not wearing out as easy (if ever? 8) ) as stock :( .

Jeff M
Title: Lower engine mount rebuild
Post by: GangstGP on October 17, 2005, 12:53:01 PM
OK, I must have accidentally gotten the solid one and blown it out!

I was unaware there was 2 types available!

My bad.

There appeared to be fluid, but I think what happened is the PS pump was leaking bad, and the rack, before I got all new front end.  

The oil breaks down the mounts WAY faster, like 1 year. If it is external, it seeps in, thats why I tell people to throw a big gulp on there occasionally to eat up that oil and make it sticky.

I wish I knew what kind I have now, I never shook it to see. My mechanic threw one on for me when I got the new rack put on.
Title: Lower engine mount rebuild
Post by: Jeff M on October 17, 2005, 01:46:51 PM
Well you might have a solid lower motor mount, its possible, only ones I have seen and heard others get are the ones when you shake them they slosh :lol: but there might be others I have not seen or heard of yet that are more solid/solid.

Yea front main engine oil seal, power steering leaks all drain right down in that sub-frame/engine cradle area :evil: usually takes a little longer for that oil to attack things but anything is possible.  

I would not worry about it now, less you have a problem, was that what we were trying to figuer out :shock:  :lol:

Jeff M
Title: Lower engine mount rebuild
Post by: GangstGP on October 17, 2005, 03:21:25 PM
thats it for the mount.
Title: Lower engine mount rebuild
Post by: Jeff M on October 17, 2005, 04:16:46 PM
Quote from: mfewtrailThe fluid filled mounts are only better at absorbing vibration. If you want a solid engine mount, they're available from NAPA auto chains under the brand "Balkamp."  If you go to NAPA, make sure to take the mount out of the box before buying it and shake it to see if you hear fluid. I know people with later model GP's have gotten hydraulic mounts that were placed in the boxes for the solid mounts(not sure if that's an issue with ours, but it doesn't hurt to check to make sure you're getting the right part).

Whats this :shock: and I missed you posting this, shit, whats the benifits the guys are looking for??  Always ready to learn :lol:

Jeff M
Title: Lower engine mount rebuild
Post by: mfewtrail on October 19, 2005, 12:15:05 AM
Quote from: Jeff M

Whats this :shock: and I missed you posting this, shit, whats the benifits the guys are looking for??  Always ready to learn :lol:

Jeff M

From what I've read on solid mounts, they're basically to eliminate engine/drivetrain movement even more.  I seem to remember guys with later model W-bodies posting about having lower OEM mounts fail at a much quicker rate when they're making pretty decent hp/torque numbers.
Title: Lower engine mount rebuild
Post by: Jeff M on October 19, 2005, 01:13:26 PM
Quote from: mfewtrail
Quote from: Jeff MWhats this :shock: and I missed you posting this, shit, whats the benifits the guys are looking for??  Always ready to learn :lol: Jeff M

From what I've read on solid mounts, they're basically to eliminate engine/drivetrain movement even more.  I seem to remember guys with later model W-bodies posting about having lower OEM mounts fail at a much quicker rate when they're making pretty decent hp/torque numbers.

Good info, thanks :D All seems to make sense too, will add that to things I know to tell others, cool!!

Jeff M