'92 Cutlass Supreme SL sedan - white, 139k miles 3.1 4 speed auto, due for oil change, been sitting a little over a month. pw/pl/tilt column/console shift/front buckets/trunk release/dic (will need to be wired back in). needs two new tires (has two good Cooper Lifeliner Classic IIs or something like that, almost brand new), maybe a few tiny rust sand-down/touchups on the body, and something up front. I don't know what. I think it has a hub on the way out, and possibly driverside inner tierod end. runs slow (duh) but great.
scrape underneath front bumper and minor crack (damn snow). not that visible. also has very mild 1/4 panel damage where it kissed and dragged it's fatass along a concrete barrier on the highway. It's just the very edge, near the tail light. it's flattened a little. rear bumper's also a little banged up. foglights need some help but I have replacement parts.
interior is blue and in near-mint condition. carpet is worn a bit in driver-side footwell. headliner is perfect. front doors have ~5.25" holes cut in them from my kenwood's, so it either needs door panels or speakers to throw in there. I might put mine in with the car. stock Olds cassette/radio. walmart floormats, look/match great.
I'm the third owner, my grandparents owned it for a long ass time so it was babied most of it's life. not gonna lie, I beat on the thing. I only drove it for about ooh 15k miles or so. rear brakes rotors/pads are new and calipers are fine. just regreased them. they've never ever seized on me. somehow managed to stretch the e-brake cable so only the passenger side really closes w/ e-brake, but I promise that it's just the cable. front rotors are just over a year old - '96+ front brake swap. passenger side pads are new too. I had been using the original calipers so that I wouldn't have to go throught the trouble of messing w/ fluid etc, but the driver's side caliper started making loud noises in reverse so I swapped it with the caliper that came on the strut towers I got for the big brake swap (think it was a '97 lumina, dunno mileage). The pads from that caliper also got put on, because the driverside had somehow worn down way faster than the passenger side, and the pads on the lumina caliper were almost brand new.
tranny slips occasionally in the winter until it gets warmed up. I've never done a fluid change on it, was afraid too because I didn't know if it had ever been done before and supposedly it's not good to do it in that case. if you're not afraid, then by all means I would change the fluid/filter.
the sawblades look like shit. if you're gonna keep them, reclear coat them. Pretty sure the spare tire doens't fit over the new front brakes, but I could grab a proper sized one from a j/y and throw it in.
It looks like I'll be driving it for the next few weeks possibly, so it'll be going back on the road, most likely getting an oil change etc.
Asking $1100 obo.
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'90 Turbo Grand Prix STE - white, 155k miles. Been driving it daily for a little over a month, previously owned by no1kicker. Not running. Camshaft is shot, the lobe for the exhaust valve on cylinder 6 is rounded off. I'd recommend a new set of TB vacuum lines in addition to the rest of the parts you'll probably want to replace. Also needs at least two spark plug wires, and good luck getting the rest of them off (actually I have some spare wires that should fit that I'll include.) If you thought the outside of the motor was bad, you should see the inside. If you're tearing it down and rebuilding half of it anyway it won't matter, but there is some oil cakage in the inside of the LIM, heads and old valve covers. Needs a new EGR tube. Also needs a new coolant line: the short section of pipe that runs from the side of the lower intake manifold and down to the back of the motor - think it leads to the heater core. twisted the hell out of it when trying to remove the LIM yesterday. Turbo has tiny amount of shaft play.
Transmission's 1-2 shift slips/shudders bad. I have a spare 4T60-HD that was supposedly rebuilt ~2-3k ago that came out of my red TGP; it will be included.
PM3 ABS pump runs nonstop, but brakes are still awesome. Fuse is pulled, so no ABS obviously, but they'll lock up pretty nice. Also have two full spare PM3 master cylinders, one out of my TGP and the other out of no1kicker's old parts car TGP. Only thing either of them should need (if anything) ais maybe a new accumilator or pressure sensor (I think). none are cracked or anything as far as I know.
New idler/tensioner pulley, FFP UD-pulley, TG-160 Jeff M. chip, very mildly ported throttle body. 4 KYB GR2 struts ~ 1 year old. Will include a Buick F-bar STB for the front, but it needs at least one new stud (or you could go with the ZZP mounts). Can't remember when he said the last time the brakes were done. As I said they feel pretty good though. White 5-spoke wheels (1 has tiny bit of curb rash :oops:) on fairly new 215/60/R16 tires.. I'll check brand/model later. Will include all 4 stock nucleus wheels without tires. Will include polished valve covers, unsure about which plenum yet. Dogbones have poly mounts on the engine side. Cradle bolts (and bushings?) were replaced like a year or two ago I think by the dealer after they gave out. Didn't cause any other damage I don't think.
Sunroof leaks a little, and as a result the headliner's not looking to healthy near the rear window. Seat control wires need to be resolderd. Only recline/back&forth/up&down work, leads me to believe there may be a leaking pneumatic line. I'll include a known good "parts seat" or two from the TGP that you should be able to fix it with. later model heads-up display installed, needs a controller (works fine but the height adjustment tab is broken off so it's a pain to move around). Stock cassette deck. Radio controls work great, though no1kicker mentioned they didn't always work right away on hot days. Power antenna motor- works, but it's not very securely mounted. Has been making weird squeeling noises lately when it retracts. Trunk release works fine, as well as all windows/locks/sunroof/mirrors/security lighting. Locks were only working intermittently, turned out to be loose pins on the relay connector so it should be all set for now. Keyless entry box doesn't work. When grounded it unlocks but doesn't lock again. If I press a button on a keyfob with it still grounded, it tries to unlock again but that's it. Instrument cluster is very inaccurate, check gauges light is usually on (as well as ABS obviously). Driver's infromation system works perfectly. Got rid of most of the white interior parts, and have replacements for those I didn't switch out yet (as well as the white ones, if you really want them).
Exhaust needs a little work; all new middle pipping, but kinda shoddily thrown together. Needs a hanger and better weld job (hangs a little low). No cat, but may include a brand new one.
Paint's decent. Chips are starting to show up here and there, but it's all touchup stuff. Doesn't seem to be oxidized or anything anywhere, though the front bumper's got a lot of spider cracks. Some rust inside around the sunroof. Also around the hoodvents. Front lower valence is cracked and beaten up. For a New England car rust isn't very bad at all. The cradle has some surface rust. Rear suspension and fuel lines are rusty. The rest of the underbody looks pretty damn clean though. Mirrors look like ass, need to be repainted. Driver's side triangular trim piece around the mirror is a little fucked up/bent.
foglight bulbs are burnt out. windshield's cracked, parking brake doesn't work, but it could just be that the pedal needs to be lubed.
asking $900 obo.
I'll post pics of whatever anyone wants, just ask. I'm going to try and get some current pics tomorrow, just need to find my camera battery charger.
Both cars are located in North Kingstown, Rhode Island. And I need them gone soon.
Some older pics (TSTE is pretty much the same, Cutlass is a little more banged up).
http://www.cardomain.com/id/sblmnlexistence
How much work would it take to make the TSTE driveable? Obviously it wouldn't have tons of power with the problems, but driveable enough to cruise down the freeway is all I'd need. I'm interested but it would be much easier to pick it up if I could attempt to drive it home. I've always said I wanted that car... Since I have all kinds of spare turbo parts lying around, including a very nice turbo cam, I could definately make it run pretty good.
Please let me know more info about it. More pics of it would be excellent, even though I've seen plenty over the years.
Shawn
Well, it technically only needs a camshaft (as far as I know). Possibly a lifter and pushrod, as they might've been the cause of the problem in the first place. I would not drive it otherwise. You'd have one exhaust valve that isn't opening.
Pics I've been meaning to get to... I'll try again tomorrow I guess.
Remember, trying to get it gone sooner than later. I know there are some offers out there but none want to pick it up until spring. I'd like to avoid that if possible.
The car would cruise down the freeway just fine on only 5 cylinders. I can't see anything getting damaged from driving it on 5 cylinders, and if something does get damaged it shouldn't be the bottom end, and I have the whole stock topend off my STE sitting in a box, so thats no problem. After I get the car home it would be getting a cam (and not a stock one) pretty much immediately. I looked it up on Mapquest and it is ~12-13hr drive to pick it up. All I would have to do is get two days off work and probably fly there and drive it back, there wouldn't be any waiting until spring. I'd just want to see some pics and I should be able to pick it up by the end of the year.
Shawn
The car was solid, I can probably help Tony out with any questions, and I have tons of pics. Let me know and I'll dig through my comp for some.
I would be very leary of driving a car for any distance with an exhaust valve not opening. You will still have compression and combustion in that cylinder which will blow back up into the intake stream when the intake valve opens because it has no-where to go. If at all possible I would pull that spark plug wire and let it only fire on 5 cylinders. Only thing would be the possibility of damaging that coil from not discharging on that cylinders stroke.
I am thinking out loud here...but I would not purposely drive a car knowing was only running on 5 cylinders unless it was dire emergency!
That is just me and my opinion...but be careflu that you do not destroy the rest of the engine! :wink: 8)
Quote from: TGPilotI would be very leary of driving a car for any distance with an exhaust valve not opening. You will still have compression and combustion in that cylinder which will blow back up into the intake stream when the intake valve opens because it has no-where to go. If at all possible I would pull that spark plug wire and let it only fire on 5 cylinders. Only thing would be the possibility of damaging that coil from not discharging on that cylinders stroke.
I am thinking out loud here...but I would not purposely drive a car knowing was only running on 5 cylinders unless it was dire emergency!
That is just me and my opinion...but be careflu that you do not destroy the rest of the engine! :wink: 8)
I was thinking I'd just pull the plug wire, or maybe even the plug (but then I'd have to worry about dirt, water, etc... getting in the cyl.). I wouldn't be driving it with that cylinder firing. I would obviously be harder on the rings to have the exhuast valve not opening either.
I'm very interested in the car. I need to talk to some friends of mine to see if I can get some people to come with me to pick it up, because if I can do that I can be there to pick it up in 2 weekends. (the weekend of the 10th I believe)
If you have tons of pics (which I'm sure you do because you've posted tons over the years) I would appreciate you sending me some. I've seen tons of pics of it before but I would just like to make sure its still in about the same condition it was last time I saw pics of it before I go drive 12+ hrs. to pick it up.
Shawn