I just got done replacing my oil return line. I haven't even started the car up yet (probably should check for leaks huh), but when I took the old line off the thing looked brand new on the inside, looked identical to the new one. I am 99.999% sure this new line is not going to fix any problems. So my turbo probably needs a rebuild....darn...now I'm gonna have to get that stupid GT2871R.... :twisted:
Shawn
i need to check my return line too. lately my car starts smoking if it sits idleing for more than a few minutes. that's the only time it will smoke.
Mine smokes like a mofo as soon as it gets warmed up. Then it smokes pretty much everytime the engine is at idle speed with no load after that. (if I bring the revs up to like 1k at stoplights its fine, at 800rpm it smokes like crazy) If I coast down from 55 to 35 it will leave a cloud of smoke. It runs really well though, spools quick, and makes boost just fine.
I drove it a little bit since I put the line on and the damn thing still smokes like crazy. It doesn't seem to be getting any better (I expected it to smoke a little to clean out the oil and crap in there, but its still smoking A LOT). God damn I don't really have the $ for a turbo but I've really wanted to upgrade anyways... SHIT SHIT SHIT, the money I've been saving is supposed to be for a 5 speed swap!!!
It actually seems to be a lot quicker now that I replaced the line. Maybe the turbo to I/C pipe wasn't tightened all the way before or something because thats the only thing I can think. I made sure that I tightened the shit out of it when I put it back on so maybe it was leaking boost...
Shawn
Ive been lookin arround for a way to upgrade my turbo without spending a whole lot of MONEY and aimed at the DIYer.I have found that the some(depending on year model) eclipse/talon turbocharged cars use a t-25/28 with a different exaust housing.I have noticed that several web sites offer a big t-25/28 for the eclipse/talon for a nice lumpsum of money.After a whole lot of searches I found that the big t-25/28 uses a 16g compressior wheel off of a t04.You half to sleeve the larger wheel so that it will fit on the exaust turbine shaft of the t-25/28.Next you can buy a housing for the larger wheel or you can modify your own(if you know of a good machine shop).I also read that the stock t-25 is good for about 250hp and with the larger wheel it was said to be good for 400hp.Sad thing is that the lil t-25 is already wearing out my auto.I am already lookin for a t-25/28 center section for this project.Without the cost of the turbo(and a new tranny) I'm lookin to have rite at 300$ in parts.Later
Quote from: flybyniteIve been lookin arround for a way to upgrade my turbo without spending a whole lot of MONEY and aimed at the DIYer.I have found that the some(depending on year model) eclipse/talon turbocharged cars use a t-25/28 with a different exaust housing.I have noticed that several web sites offer a big t-25/28 for the eclipse/talon for a nice lumpsum of money.After a whole lot of searches I found that the big t-25/28 uses a 16g compressior wheel off of a t04.You half to sleeve the larger wheel so that it will fit on the exaust turbine shaft of the t-25/28.Next you can buy a housing for the larger wheel or you can modify your own(if you know of a good machine shop).I also read that the stock t-25 is good for about 250hp and with the larger wheel it was said to be good for 400hp.Sad thing is that the lil t-25 is already wearing out my auto.I am already lookin for a t-25/28 center section for this project.Without the cost of the turbo(and a new tranny) I'm lookin to have rite at 300$ in parts.Later
I'm assuming you plan on making a new custom downpipe as well since that T-25 has a different turbine exhaust outlet bolt pattern than the TGP, the TGP has one of those awesome great basically "one of a kind" style bolt pattern, hence one reason why turbo upgrades aren't very popular around here :wink:
At $300 you are nearing halfway towards a NEW turbo that will bolt right in.
If I understand what I,m reading correctly all I half to do is replace my stock compressior wheel with the larger one and machine the the stock compressior houseing(or buy new one) to accept the larger wheel.Basically It will look like the stock t-25 but on the inside it will have the larger compressior wheel.You can also go to the next level and bore out the stock t-25 exaust houseing and use a larger exaust turbine wheel and shaft.This will increase hp levels to 450 plus.The reason I,m lookin a used TGP center section is because I dont wont to take apart the car and let it sit in the way(very limited with space here)My goal is to buy a used TGP center section,rebuild it with new parts,larger wheel and install on car when I,m ready.Yes a new turbo is the way to go if ur loooaaaded or never rebuilt one.The ones I looked at were in the $800 range.Later
The stock t-25 I believe is good for more than 250 HP, but it is not as good quality of boost. meaning you could up the psi but it is not designed for high psi. we want quick spool torque for rally racing. We should all get a group buy going through Garrett for some T-25s with ball bearings if possible. and another one for the future when someone gets a reliable system completed for higher boost which will be pretty involved.but for now we should go with stock for numbers. everyone knows that when dealing with manufacturers like that, it has to do with quantity.
yeah i think the stock T25 is good for at least 250hp, at least at the crank. i'm not sure if anyone has reached 250whp with a stock turbo or not, but i'm betting it could be done ecspecially with a good FMIC.
Quote from: TurboSedanyeah i think the stock T25 is good for at least 250hp, at least at the crank. i'm not sure if anyone has reached 250whp with a stock turbo or not, but i'm betting it could be done ecspecially with a good FMIC.
The advantages a FMIC has doesn't really matter on a dyno, the big fans only do so much to simulate the air that an actual car would have on the FMIC. In the "dyno" world, they are going to suffer heat soak just like a normal intercooler, that is the problem there. :cry:
Just to bad there is no "easy" way of getting lines run to a FMIC without removing stuff, they one we have laying in the garage just collecting dust could be of some use if we could get lines to it
Quote from: z284pwrQuote from: TurboSedanyeah i think the stock T25 is good for at least 250hp, at least at the crank. i'm not sure if anyone has reached 250whp with a stock turbo or not, but i'm betting it could be done ecspecially with a good FMIC.
The advantages a FMIC has doesn't really matter on a dyno, the big fans only do so much to simulate the air that an actual car would have on the FMIC. In the "dyno" world, they are going to suffer heat soak just like a normal intercooler, that is the problem there. :cry:
Just to bad there is no "easy" way of getting lines run to a FMIC without removing stuff, they one we have laying in the garage just collecting dust could be of some use if we could get lines to it
i would have to disagree. my brother took his Omni GLH to the dyno and it has a BIG NPR FMIC. while the pre intercooler pipe was obviously HOT, the pipe between the intercooler and TB was cool to the touch! that is one big ass intercooler though:
http://www.turbosedan.com/omni/DSC01319.JPG
although after a hard WOT run on the highway the post-IC pipe is COLD to the touch :lol:
my brother also had his Shelby Lancer at the dyno with a stock intercooler (stock Turbo Dodge intercooler is almost identical to a TGP intercooler). the post-IC pipe was very very warm after the dyno run....so much so that it was hard to hold onto the pipe.
If someone can dyno 250whp with a stock T25 it will be pretty hard to do. I'm going to dyno my STE as it is right now in the spring when the MI gp club has their dyno day. It should be in the 230whp range at least I hope, but we'll see. If I get injectors by then then I'm sure it will be in that range. My turbo is really maxed out though. I get full boost at stupid low rpms and it starts to fall on its face in the 5krpm range.
We'll see what I dyno in the spring (I believe I have the most done with the stock turbo of anyone on here...although I could be wrong???) but I don't think it will be near 250whp. If I had a 5 speed it might be close though. But I need to get injectors so I can run more than the ~9-9.5psi I'm running right now. At 12-13psi I think it can be done with my setup. Based on the torque numbers everyone else has been getting and comparing the torque my car has now to what it had when it had similar mods to what you guys are running, I'm thinking I'll put out some pretty large torque numbers as well. We'll see.
But as soon as I make a baseline dyno pull and a baseline 1/4 mile, I'm going to install a GT2871R and see what I can do with that. I'm hoping to get in the 12's by the end of the year, although I don't know how realisitic that is, its my goal.
Shawn
Quote from: z284pwrJust to bad there is no "easy" way of getting lines run to a FMIC without removing stuff, they one we have laying in the garage just collecting dust could be of some use if we could get lines to it
We need to get to work on finding a narrower A/C condenser. It kills me to see such a perfect spot to run pipes through next to the radiator be block by some small tubing. (I have NO plans to ditch my A/C, so that's not an option for me).
It wouldn't be that hard to bend some tubing to match up lines from a new condenser to the stock A/C lines.
Quote from: GutlessSupremeQuote from: z284pwrJust to bad there is no "easy" way of getting lines run to a FMIC without removing stuff, they one we have laying in the garage just collecting dust could be of some use if we could get lines to it
We need to get to work on finding a narrower A/C condenser. It kills me to see such a perfect spot to run pipes through next to the radiator be block by some small tubing. (I have NO plans to ditch my A/C, so that's not an option for me).
It wouldn't be that hard to bend some tubing to match up lines from a new condenser to the stock A/C lines.
Yes same here, AC is not going anywhere. The next question is finding a car that would actually have an AC condensor that short, since most cars have the condensor the entire length of the car. Welding and fittings definitely wouldn't be a problem there. However, the 2nd intercooler fan would also have to go away or be moved, which kinda sucks...
QuoteIf someone can dyno 250whp with a stock T25 it will be pretty hard to do. I'm going to dyno my STE as it is right now in the spring when the MI gp club has their dyno day. It should be in the 230whp range at least I hope, but we'll see. If I get injectors by then then I'm sure it will be in that range. My turbo is really maxed out though. I get full boost at stupid low rpms and it starts to fall on its face in the 5krpm range.
We'll see what I dyno in the spring (I believe I have the most done with the stock turbo of anyone on here...although I could be wrong???) but I don't think it will be near 250whp. If I had a 5 speed it might be close though. But I need to get injectors so I can run more than the ~9-9.5psi I'm running right now. At 12-13psi I think it can be done with my setup. Based on the torque numbers everyone else has been getting and comparing the torque my car has now to what it had when it had similar mods to what you guys are running, I'm thinking I'll put out some pretty large torque numbers as well. We'll see.
But as soon as I make a baseline dyno pull and a baseline 1/4 mile, I'm going to install a GT2871R and see what I can do with that. I'm hoping to get in the 12's by the end of the year, although I don't know how realisitic that is, its my goal.
Shawn
Those numbers sound doable, if these guys are pulling 210 with a 5spd, I think your cam, heads, and intake make up for the weight added, just hope the drivetrain loss isn't to much. The power range definitely sounds right, my cam prevents low end but it the dying past 5k is somewhat true, the engine starts outflowing the turbo then. However, if you do a 5spd swap, you will probably just run into the same problems the 5spd guys are having, traction in 1st and 2nd gear is non-existant, so really the weight savings from a 5spd goes out the window. You have to get the power to the ground to go anywhere :wink: Especially with your low end torque.
I don't see the 12s being reached without slicks, which brings in the next problem, as posted in the other thread, "Black Sunshine" let the track have all his trans parts :shock: , which will probably be the same problem you end up with if you don't have the trans beefed up if you are running slicks.
Quote from: z284pwrThose numbers sound doable, if these guys are pulling 210 with a 5spd, I think your cam, heads, and intake make up for the weight added, just hope the drivetrain loss isn't to much. The power range definitely sounds right, my cam prevents low end but it the dying past 5k is somewhat true, the engine starts outflowing the turbo then. However, if you do a 5spd swap, you will probably just run into the same problems the 5spd guys are having, traction in 1st and 2nd gear is non-existant, so really the weight savings from a 5spd goes out the window. You have to get the power to the ground to go anywhere :wink: Especially with your low end torque.
I don't see the 12s being reached without slicks, which brings in the next problem, as posted in the other thread, "Black Sunshine" let the track have all his trans parts :shock: , which will probably be the same problem you end up with if you don't have the trans beefed up if you are running slicks.
I believe Kenny is pulling in the 220-230whp range with his 5 speed car, and IIRC his AUTO STE pulled like 221. So I think 250 is doable I just don't know if my setup is capable of it or not. But, weight is not of a big concern to me. The extra 100lbs. my trans weighs is only a tenth in the 1/4. There are lots of other things I can do to gain a tenth. But I would like to put a 282 from a Beretta or something like that like Josh is talking about because then the gears will be halfway useful. Then if I get some drag radials and launch mildly the trans shouldn't blow to pieces. If it does, I'll have to figure out what to do to keep it together.
Shawn
fmic=gay compared to smic.
Quote from: GangstGPfmic=gay compared to smic.
crack?
Quote from: GutlessSupremeQuote from: GangstGPfmic=gay compared to smic.
crack?
Yes sir I think you are correct :shock: :idea:
Why would you think FMIC is "gay" compared to SMIC? Having a sidemount without a ton of breathing and airflow ability is not better than what is in place now. Why do you think the DSM guys are pulling there SMIC and putting in FMIC's? One and only reason...not enough frontal area to flow air across.
Now one thing that will not be tolerated here...flaming or digs in a negative way without cause! Please make sure you use your smilies to avoid waking up the caged animals! :wink: :lol: 8)
Quote from: dbtk2I believe Kenny is pulling in the 220-230whp range with his 5 speed car, and IIRC his AUTO STE pulled like 221. So I think 250 is doable I just don't know if my setup is capable of it or not. But, weight is not of a big concern to me. The extra 100lbs. my trans weighs is only a tenth in the 1/4. There are lots of other things I can do to gain a tenth. But I would like to put a 282 from a Beretta or something like that like Josh is talking about because then the gears will be halfway useful. Then if I get some drag radials and launch mildly the trans shouldn't blow to pieces. If it does, I'll have to figure out what to do to keep it together.
Shawn
considering your current mods i would be surprised if you didn't reach 250whp after swapping in a 5-speed. i got 227whp with only a K&N, MBC @ ~10psi, testpipe/straight through muffler and chip (and 5-speed of course).
hopefully i can dyno my TSTE soon; not sure if it will be auto or manual by the time i'll be able to though.
Quote from: TGPilotWhy would you think FMIC is "gay" compared to SMIC? Having a sidemount without a ton of breathing and airflow ability is not better than what is in place now. Why do you think the DSM guys are pulling there SMIC and putting in FMIC's? One and only reason...not enough frontal area to flow air across.
Now one thing that will not be tolerated here...flaming or digs in a negative way without cause! Please make sure you use your smilies to avoid waking up the caged animals! :wink: :lol: 8)
I think there is too much piping in a FMIC. I do not mean to be negative, but I have seen some pretty weak FMIC setups. DSM, I would never own so I dont care about them. :wink: nice to have their input, learn from their mistakes for sure.I know this has already been argued, and gains are minimal, so until someone completes a doublestacked smic, I will not be impressed.but there is no room for that mod either. I guess the best gains would come from paint stripping the IC and the ac fin mod.
I like to wake up the animals!
piping for a FMIC would likely only be a few inches longer.
and you definately would not want to 'stack' intercoolers together :? that doesn't make sense.
Quote from: TurboSedanpiping for a FMIC would likely only be a few inches longer.
and you definately would not want to 'stack' intercoolers together :? that doesn't make sense.
A few inches! more like a few FEET!
And stacking them would be sweet! I have no idea why you think that dont make sense. no added piping and twice as much cooling! our setup already drops temps over 100 degrees! you look at Banks turbo kits and wrx ic's they are close as possible to the turbo. sometimes no IC at all!
In my opinion tall ic's with big tanks=high flow efficient. long IC's less passages+long tubing=restrictive. Do the math.
Butcher the car for minimal gains when the state of the art system already rules? Jeff M already convinced me that route sucks.
Quote from: GangstGPQuote from: TurboSedanpiping for a FMIC would likely only be a few inches longer.
and you definately would not want to 'stack' intercoolers together :? that doesn't make sense.
A few inches! more like a few FEET!
And stacking them would be sweet! I have no idea why you think that dont make sense. no added piping and twice as much cooling! our setup already drops temps over 100 degrees! you look at Banks turbo kits and wrx ic's they are close as possible to the turbo. sometimes no IC at all!
In my opinion tall ic's with big tanks=high flow efficient. long IC's less passages+long tubing=restrictive. Do the math.
Butcher the car for minimal gains when the state of the art system already rules? Jeff M already convinced me that route sucks.
If you got a double driver's side ended Front Mount, your piping distance wouldn't be very long at all. Yes its one thing running it clear over to the passenger side, but if you can get one with double ended Driver's Side, you would really not lose that much in piping distance.
Quote from: GangstGPQuote from: TurboSedanpiping for a FMIC would likely only be a few inches longer.
and you definately would not want to 'stack' intercoolers together :? that doesn't make sense.
A few inches! more like a few FEET!
And stacking them would be sweet! I have no idea why you think that dont make sense. no added piping and twice as much cooling! our setup already drops temps over 100 degrees! you look at Banks turbo kits and wrx ic's they are close as possible to the turbo. sometimes no IC at all!
In my opinion tall ic's with big tanks=high flow efficient. long IC's less passages+long tubing=restrictive. Do the math.
Butcher the car for minimal gains when the state of the art system already rules? Jeff M already convinced me that route sucks.
i think you should do more math or back up what you are saying so it makes more sense.
why would you stack two intercoolers together? i doubt you'd be getting much air through the cores because it would be so thick. i doubt longer piping is going to hurt anything either, unless the pipes are sitting over an exhaust manifold or something. it's not like you'll have a pressure drop over a foot of intercooler pipe.
this is probably what i would use for a FMIC:
http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=80
it's a Spearco and a bit expensive. inlet/oulet on same side. intercooler pipes wouldn't be much longer at all, not that it makes a difference. of course, you'd have to ditch AC (or use a shorter condensor) and run the pipes through the 'window' where the stock SMIC was.
if you want to use 2 stock intercoolers together, place them side by side. check this out:
(http://www.thedodgegarage.com/reliant/reliant_51.jpg)
or course, it's now a FMIC. that's a stock Turbo Dodge intercooler on the ground, but it is exactly the same core size as the TGP intercooler - only the endtanks are different (they also have more fins/inch internally and likely don't flow as much as a TGP core...but that's besides the point). i would probably choose a double core intercooler over a Spearco, but i have no idea who could make the custom end tanks. obviously a 4-core wouldn't fit, but you could probably do a double core without hacking the car up. i see no reason why you'd have to hack anything up by using the Spearco either.
Personally, I was thinking of getting a FMIC for the STE and this is one I found that I liked, but I think it might be overkill? What do you guys think. This would go along with a GT2871R.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FMIC-Turbo-Intercooler-27x11x3-One-sided-New-Product_W0QQitemZ8034896404QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Shawn
i like!!!!! :shock:
as long as it's not too long i think that would be great. i need to look under the nose of my car again and see for sure what LxWxH i could get away with.
might be able to get some pics how not to do it. :lol: I thought DSMs used wwmic's? They probably had smic's on early ones.
I do not think DSM's ever had Water to Water. Celica All-tracs had them in the late model cars...but I do not think WWIC was ever used on DSM's.
Water to Water would be a Superb idea for TGP's. I know people always say they are heavy...but with the weight savings of converting to a 5-speed you would still be 50-60 lbs lighter than an automatic TGP. There is a guy here in the springs who has a Honda shitbox test bed car. He is working with a WWIC that is cooling the charge temps to a point were he is getting SES lights for a malfunctioning MAT sensor! :shock: :lol: 8)
Quote from: TGPilotI do not think DSM's ever had Water to Water. Celica All-tracs had them in the late model cars...but I do not think WWIC was ever used on DSM's.
Water to Water would be a Superb idea for TGP's. I know people always say they are heavy...but with the weight savings of converting to a 5-speed you would still be 50-60 lbs lighter than an automatic TGP. There is a guy here in the springs who has a Honda shitbox test bed car. He is working with a WWIC that is cooling the charge temps to a point were he is getting SES lights for a malfunctioning MAT sensor! :shock: :lol: 8)
Yes good idea there, another one would could just be the regular setup and just run Alcohol Injection, there may even be enough room under the plenum and between the Lower Intake to create some kind of "Direct-Port" Alcohol one.
I don't know much about computer water cooling or WWICs, but how could a WWIC if you setup a system running a computer water cooling system seperate from the car's one obviously? Ah the crazy ideas people come up with....
Quoteobviously a 4-core wouldn't fit, but you could probably do a double core without hacking the car up. i see no reason why you'd have to hack anything up by using the Spearco either.
I'll agree with this too, I really don't see why you would really need to hack the car up to get one to work, if you can get the smaller condenser, you have plenty of room between the radiator and the frame. Just build some brackets to mount it with, ditch the 2nd fan, and fix up the AC, or just remove it if you insist, then there is no problem. Obviously we all must like our A/C, as I'm suprised no one has really done this yet. Without that condenser, I don't see how a FMIC would be hard at all. :?
your going to have a hard time convincing people to ditch the secondary fan, maybe relocate it. but that is why on 90 * days I can stick my hand down between the air filter and the turbo and feel gusts of cool air cooling the tranny and intake pipes. And I can run it hard, pop the hood and the charge pipe is always cool to the touch. no heat soak at all.
Quote from: GangstGPyour going to have a hard time convincing people to ditch the secondary fan, maybe relocate it. but that is why on 90 * days I can stick my hand down between the air filter and the turbo and feel gusts of cool air cooling the tranny and intake pipes.
why not? after ditching the stock SMIC there is no need for the pusher fan. i'm sure the advantages of a larger FMIC will far outweigh the stock SMIC + pusher fan. after all, when you are moving the pusher fan is pretty much worthless ecspecially when you have all that frontal area the FMIC provides.
Quote from: GangstGP
And I can run it hard, pop the hood and the charge pipe is always cool to the touch. no heat soak at all.
i don't believe that at all. it isn't possible due to the charge pipe being right over the turbine housing & the stock intercooler simply isn't so effective that it will make the upper charge pipe "cool to the touch after a hard run". it will be far from cool - it will be hot as hell after a hard run. anyone here can do that test...i would bet you are the only one that has a charge pipe that is "cool to the touch" after a hard run. i likely have a more effiecient stock IC than most people here - no condensor in front of the intercooler, and chip programmed to run the pusher fan nearly all the time. after a hard run my upper pipe will be HOT.
it blows me away you are so bent on keeping the crappy stock intercooler yet you preach that CS-130D alternator stuff like it's the best TGP upgrade ever.
Quote from: TurboSedanQuote from: GangstGP
And I can run it hard, pop the hood and the charge pipe is always cool to the touch. no heat soak at all.
i don't believe that at all. it isn't possible due to the charge pipe being right over the turbine housing & the stock intercooler simply isn't so effective that it will make the upper charge pipe "cool to the touch after a hard run". it will be far from cool - it will be hot as hell after a hard run. anyone here can do that test...i would bet you are the only one that has a charge pipe that is "cool to the touch" after a hard run. i likely have a more effiecient stock IC than most people here - no condensor in front of the intercooler, and chip programmed to run the pusher fan nearly all the time. after a hard run my upper pipe will be HOT.
it blows me away you are so bent on keeping the crappy stock intercooler yet you preach that CS-130D alternator stuff like it's the best TGP upgrade ever.
Yeah, I'm thinking the same thing. I still have my AC condensor (not for long) but the fins are removed from it in front of the IC, and with anything more than normal driving the charge pipe isn't "cool to the touch." I don't have a charge pipe anymore due to my topend swap (I have hose instead) but that was always hot before I did the swap, and my hose is pretty warm as well. And I can garuntee you that my dads is also hot after a short run. The stock intercooler with a pusher fan is nowhere near as efficient as the intercooler I posted above alone with no fan. Hell, if you really want the pusher fan mount the thing on the fmic, but I don't know what good it will do.
Shawn
I really like that top down FMIC Josh has pictured! :shock: I did some hokey measuring last week. Doing a top down FMIC, running the piping through the stock IC hole with the stock A/C condenser removed or resized, would only be 34" of piping with only three bends. Then to return to the throttle body would be 51-56" with 4 bends depending on how you bring it back up and what top end you have in place.
Having more fins does not necessarily hinder the cooling power of an intercooler. If anything it allows more radiant heat to escape. Now if they are packed together so close that it chokes off the airflow then sure it hurts. But if the fins are straight and there is enough room to the front and rear of the IC to allow for good airflow...the more fins the BETTER! :wink:
Quote from: TurboSedan
i don't believe that at all. it isn't possible due to the charge pipe being right over the turbine housing & the stock intercooler simply isn't so effective that it will make the upper charge pipe "cool to the touch after a hard run". it will be far from cool - it will be hot as hell after a hard run. anyone here can do that test...i would bet you are the only one that has a charge pipe that is "cool to the touch" after a hard run. i likely have a more effiecient stock IC than most people here - no condensor in front of the intercooler, and chip programmed to run the pusher fan nearly all the time. after a hard run my upper pipe will be HOT.
I wasn't going to be the first to say this either....
However, Im not going to say anything about mine, mine has been chromed and no heat shielding at all on the turbo itself, its not extremely hot after driving hard, but you let it sit for 2-3 minutes and the pipe is an oven. Oh and I also hae a chip that runs the pusher fan almost all the time as well, hell the cooling fan does to for that matter
Quote from: z284pwrQuote from: TurboSedan
i don't believe that at all. it isn't possible due to the charge pipe being right over the turbine housing & the stock intercooler simply isn't so effective that it will make the upper charge pipe "cool to the touch after a hard run". it will be far from cool - it will be hot as hell after a hard run. anyone here can do that test...i would bet you are the only one that has a charge pipe that is "cool to the touch" after a hard run. i likely have a more effiecient stock IC than most people here - no condensor in front of the intercooler, and chip programmed to run the pusher fan nearly all the time. after a hard run my upper pipe will be HOT.
I wasn't going to be the first to say this either....
However, Im not going to say anything about mine, mine has been chromed and no heat shielding at all on the turbo itself, its not extremely hot after driving hard, but you let it sit for 2-3 minutes and the pipe is an oven. Oh and I also hae a chip that runs the pusher fan almost all the time as well, hell the cooling fan does to for that matter
Well you shoulda listened to Jeff M like me. He helped me pimp my ride, and everyone knows he is the legend. the other forum just banned me so later yall, figgur it out yourself from now on. PEACE!
Rick.
Quote from: GangstGPWell you shoulda listened to Jeff M like me. He helped me pimp my ride, and everyone knows he is the legend. the other forum just banned me so later yall, figgur it out yourself from now on. PEACE!
Rick.
is there a reason anyone should listen to you in the first place? your posts speak for themselves and it's clear to me you don't know much about these cars at all. most of your posts don't even make any sense. and yet you play it up like you know everything and everyone else here are complete idiots. you're not fooling anyone but yourself here.
Quote from: GangstGPWell you shoulda listened to Jeff M like me. He helped me pimp my ride, and everyone knows he is the legend. the other forum just banned me so later yall, figgur it out yourself from now on. PEACE!
Rick.
That is the quickest way to get him to not answer your calls or emails. He does not appreciate idol worship and he knows just like the rest of us that the TGP/TSTE is a mechanical beast. You will learn something new everyday as is he!
You were dismissed from the other forum because of your outbursts that seem to have no rhime or reason. Take it easy or you will be removed from here also. The other forum is only temporary...here will be permanent!
Have a great day!
-Kenny 8)
Okay, I think the comments about his pipe not being very hot may be over reacting, I did check out his Cardomain site and there does appear to be some heat shielding on both the turbo, the intake tube, and some other stuff around the engine bay, so i think it may be possible thats not super hot right after a hard run, the moving air can keep the upper intake tube cool enough to the touch until you let it sit and let the heat soak take over, then yes I can see it getting way hot.
I also looked at his cardomain site and he does have heat wrap around his upper charge pipe, which is probably why it feels "cool to the touch" after a hard run, when in reality the actual charge pipe is very hot because the heat wrap is just holding the heat in.
Just my opinion though.
Shawn
Alrighty...That's enough.
If you would like to open a new thread about Intercoolers and the pros and cons of each....do so, but this thread has gone far enough off topic. :wink: 8)