Ok, my trans will downshif shift perfect under light throttle (and its of course hard under WOT and close to WOT), but in between where it gets close to boost or 1-3 lbs of boost the car just RAMS into gear when it downshifts, like makes my dash make noise and it feels sickening, like its gonna break something, is that normal like these cars are suppose to be like that, since the almost to no vacuum under partial throttle does it trick the trans into thinkin its at WOT?? This wont hurt my trans any will it, cause i like to go close to 1/2 throttle occasionally when im just drivin along just to pick up speed and it slams into gear as hard as if i went WOT
did you already try to adjust the TV cable? you use a screwdriver and push on the black square enough so the housing can be slid out until its tight. the little teeth on the end of the housing should be visible IIRC.
I did a little digging around, and Im gonna replace the Check valve that commonly leaks off the trans modulator, and see if that works, if not, the TV cable might be somthing too look into
Replaced it shifts quick and smooth, not slamming, so id reccomend replacing it, it was freakin 8.50 at the Dealer though
Coulda gotten a generic "HELP" branded one from any autoparts store for a few bucks. But at least that fixed it.
oh god damnit, there like 2$ at Napa
Is $6.50 really that big of a deal? :shock: :wink:
lol nothing to take it back over, its genuine GM :lol:
I say TV cable, mine did that same thing for the longest time, they were HARD, adjusted it, now its much smoother.....I have it set so it shifts a little high under light throttle but my bottom end sucks so I keep it....
It is kind of a pain to get to, I hope your left hand it strong. I reach down and push it in with that and retract it with the right hand, then us the TB to open it back up...if that makes sense?
Quote from: z284pwrI have it set so it shifts a little high under light throttle but my bottom end sucks so I keep it....
What is hurting your bottom end?
Quote from: TookyCatQuote from: z284pwrI have it set so it shifts a little high under light throttle but my bottom end sucks so I keep it....
What is hurting your bottom end?
My engine/camshaft combination.
An 1800 stall converter or whatever it is matched to an engine that doesn't make decent power till 2500 or so bottom end sucks. WOT from idle is even WORSE than 1/2 or 1/4 from idle. The 60 foot time would be so ugly.
Its even obvious in park/neutral when reving it. Its way slow, then picks up really fast. So I keep it set to where it will stay around 2500 or so under partial throttle instead of shifting to sub 2000 where its just a turb and ends up down shifiting anyways.
Quote from: z284pwrMy engine/camshaft combination.
An 1800 stall converter or whatever it is matched to an engine that doesn't make decent power till 2500 or so bottom end sucks.
What cam do you have?
Funny you mention the stall. I swear the converter on my TGP is one of the loosest I've noticed for a stock vehicle. It's not as loose as say an aftermarket 3000 stall in a V8, but it is loose enough to notice. When I had the tranny rebuilt, they matched up the stock converter to the remanufactured one, and on his chart it sounded like the same converter as a bunch of other Grand Prixs (non-turbo); I double-checked with him when I heard that because I thought the TGP had a special converter. But believe it or not, this replacement converter does in fact perform identical to the original! So I don't really have an explanation for that.
Quote from: TookyCatQuote from: z284pwrMy engine/camshaft combination.
An 1800 stall converter or whatever it is matched to an engine that doesn't make decent power till 2500 or so bottom end sucks.
What cam do you have?
Funny you mention the stall. I swear the converter on my TGP is one of the loosest I've noticed for a stock vehicle. It's not as loose as say an aftermarket 3000 stall in a V8, but it is loose enough to notice. When I had the tranny rebuilt, they matched up the stock converter to the remanufactured one, and on his chart it sounded like the same converter as a bunch of other Grand Prixs (non-turbo); I double-checked with him when I heard that because I thought the TGP had a special converter. But believe it or not, this replacement converter does in fact perform identical to the original! So I don't really have an explanation for that.
Here....take a look at this, you might be suprised... :wink:
QuoteGM FWD Torque Converters
GM uses the same type 4-digit ID method of identifying FWD torque converters as with the RWD units, however the digits have different meanings. All 125-C, 440-T4, 4T60, and 4T60-E transmissions use the same style torque converter, and they are interchangeable before 1996. 1996-up converters are built to be compatible with GM's PWM TCC apply strategy which means that you can use the newer converter on the older trans, but not the older converter on the newer trans.
1st Digit (application trans)
F -- 125C, 440-T4, 4T60, 4T60-E
2nd Digit (approx stall (depends on engine)
A -- 2795 rpm
B -- 2560 rpm
C -- 2385 rpm
D -- 2095 rpm
E -- 1865 rpm
G -- 1630 rpm
H -- 1515 rpm
J -- 2060 rpm
K -- 2760 rpm
L -- 1895 rpm
M -- 1525 rpm
Y -- 1420 rpm
Z -- 2375 rpm
3rd Digit (TCC clutch material)
0 -- Clutch omitted by factory
5 -- Clutch contains poppet valves
All other digits (pre 1996):
Red Fiber material
1996-97
C, E, H, K, P -- Carbon filled clutch
1998-up
F, H, K, Q -- Woven graphite clutch
4th Digit (Clutch Type)
B -- standard
C -- viscous (stay away from these type)
Unless the converter isn't original *the trans was rebuilt like in 1998 by a shop the previous owner took it too*
If we go with our plans, we will be rebuilding a 4T60-HD and putting in an FKxx converter *2760 stall*
Oh and the cam, its a custom grind cam from Crower, specs here
http://home.earthlink.net/~z284pwr/beretta/engine_stuff/cam_small.jpg
The bottom end sucks, it even sucked behind a 3.1 N/A 5spd with a Fidanza flywheel and a Haltech EMS, however, top end is excellent. Unlike stock that dies at what 5200 or so, it pulls to 6500 no problem, the turbo/transmission don't like it though :lol:
oh damn its still sorta doing the slaming thing, not AS bad but it still jolts into gear, I didnt really understand how to adjust the cable, like, do they auto adjust or somthing? cause i dont wanna over adjust it or somthing
Quote from: Prospeederoh damn its still sorta doing the slaming thing, not AS bad but it still jolts into gear, I didnt really understand how to adjust the cable, like, do they auto adjust or somthing? cause i dont wanna over adjust it or somthing
Its really simple actually once you figure out the how it works and over adjusting it isn't really possible as the TB only opens so far... :wink:
If you would like, I can snap up some pictures later of what to do for ya
i would like some pics of this. Mine only does it under WOT, I just thought it was from lack of vacume, but if there is a way to correct it...
Pics would be great, thanks! Id like to get it cleared up, it feels bad for the car
Okay, here we are, first off, obviously, these pictures aren't from the TGP, since well, its like impossible to get a good picture, well, i think I got like 2, without destorying it, and the extra one we used to have from our Lumina engine we cut up for experimentation, so this will work, from our '90 INDY which I might add I hit the hood prop and dropped the hood on me!!! :x , same concept though, I uninstalled my photshop during reformatting time, so I had to use PAINT to resize them............and we are off.....
TGP....you see that circular with the line coming out the center, which is the TV cable right, yes, it is.....
(http://home.earthlink.net/~z284pwr/grand_prix/tv_cable/tv_1.JPG)
On the top of it behind the big cicular thing *from looking at the first picture, there is this, with 2 shiney metal "things" on it....about middle of picture with a hole in the center
(http://home.earthlink.net/~z284pwr/grand_prix/tv_cable/tv_2.JPG)
Here, close up view...*linked because its not resized....*
http://home.earthlink.net/~z284pwr/grand_prix/tv_cable/tv_3.JPG
I'm a skinny mini so I was able to reach my hand down too it. This is how I went about it.....Standing on the driver's side, by the fender, reach over, stick your hand down between the firewall and the back of the engine, its like directly below the purge canister solenoid, using my right thumb, pushed down on it....then with the left, slither down under the EGR, push the thing in the center of the connector in, there is a little CONE type thing, if you look in the first picture you can see it slightly, its what the cable comes out of, it will go quite a ways in when you are pushing the thing down, if not, push harder or find a way to use a big object that you can push it down with....THEN, after its retracted, take the right hand and OPEN the throttle body, you will hear the thing click, which is does when you push it it, you open the TB all the way, WOT, and then let go with the left hand on the "button" I'll call it. That should put it pretty close to what its at. My poor back has about 2 cuts in it or I would go outside and look in the manual, or someone will chime in, but you do a test drive and at partial throttle you check to see what it shifts at RPM/Speed wise, and that will tell you if it needs more adjusting, I believe the more IN the cone type thing is, the higher the RPM/Speed must be at partial throttle to shift....
I hope this explains it well enough, any more help needed?
Just in case anyone else had trouble telling what was what in the above pics, I happen to have a cable out in my trunk so I snapped a few quick close up pics. Hope they help.
(http://psubooks.creamyfetus.com/tgp/TC1.JPG)
(http://psubooks.creamyfetus.com/tgp/TC2.JPG)
Stuped Automatics :x
:wink:
that is all......
Quote from: Invasion1Stuped Automatics :x
:wink:
that is all......
Us Drag racers love them :) Fast/hard shifting automatic + high stall converter > manual :shock: :P
well ya have the right tranny for hard shiftin :P
just bustin the majorities chops a bit :wink:
erm, so theres the button, the further you press it the more it adjust or what? or u press it as far as it goes? And then open the throttle all the way, let off the button, then let of the throttle, and it adjusts? How do you adjust it more or less, i didnt see that part? just press the button more or hold it longer or what
Quote from: Prospeedererm, so theres the button, the further you press it the more it adjust or what? or u press it as far as it goes? And then open the throttle all the way, let off the button, then let of the throttle, and it adjusts? How do you adjust it more or less, i didnt see that part? just press the button more or hold it longer or what
No....
You press the button to allow the thing to adjust....The little "cone" thing at the end down by the end is what you adjust. Push the button down, then push that "cone" thing in, then, while still holding the button, you open the throttle and it will click and the "cone" will move out. Open the throttle ALL the way while holding the button, then let go of it, then you are done for the first part. The small adjustments are probably easiest with just pushing the button in and moving the "cone" in a couple click, you may be able to move it out some too. Like I mentioned before, I believe that the further IN the "cone" is the higher the RPMs must be under partial throttle for it to shift.
Quote from: z284pwrQuote from: Invasion1Stuped Automatics :x
:wink:
that is all......
Us Drag racers love them :) Fast/hard shifting automatic + high stall converter > manual :shock: :P
Nuh uh! No way! Nope! :wink: :lol:
I will take a manual over an auto anyday! Cheaper to fix, more power to the ground, and just plain more fun! :wink:
dont listen to the clutch dumpers, and shift fumbling whiz bangers. :lol: :roll: they are used to keeping their hands busy with knobs :P
just remember to double or triple heat shield the cable as it runs down in between the x-over,turbo and downpipe, otherwise the thing will strech (if it hasnt already 'turboblanket? Y/N') from all the heat. even crack off the plastic cable housing.new ones are $150+ so I hope yours is not all streched out yet.
My turbo is not insulated and I have never had an issue with heat. No cracking or stretching at all. If you use the dimpled hole in the floorboard to run the shift cables out you will not come any closer than 6" to the downpipe and they are a long ways from the cross-over. I will have to look at it again...but I remember being nervous about the fitment when I was mocking things up 3 years ago...but was very relieved when I saw where they were after it was bolted together.
the plastic covering the TV cable in my TSTE is all cracked up and coming off due to the heat. and it had the original turbo blanket on it too :(
manual shift cables are a different story. they don't come very close to the downpipe but i do have mine wrapped in Thermo-Tec heat wrap from Summit anyway. i have my regular NA 3.1 fuel lines wrapped it Thermo-Tec heat wrap as well because they are sort of close to the turbine housing.
Quote from: TGPilotQuote from: z284pwrQuote from: Invasion1Stuped Automatics :x
:wink:
that is all......
Us Drag racers love them :) Fast/hard shifting automatic + high stall converter > manual :shock: :P
Nuh uh! No way! Nope! :wink: :lol:
I will take a manual over an auto anyday! Cheaper to fix, more power to the ground, and just plain more fun! :wink:
And like I said,
Us Drag racers :P
Its a never ending no win battle, I could go into the torque/low end/launching/etc.etc. with the two and it would be the same outcome, yes no thing :lol: Good debate material there, haha....
On Topic, My TV cable down between turbo/crossover still looks in pretty good shape actually, it still works so I'm not going to fix it, don't fix what isn't broken they say :wink: