Anyone have an Optima Redtop in their car? What is the model number if you have it?
Or is there a chart somewhere for cross-reference other than Optima's site? Does nto show a battery for our 3.1 89-90 GP's. :roll:
Never mind. Guy at Advance looked it up for me. It is a 75/35 RedTop. :roll:
Shows for the 89 GP, and 88 GP. They have the same location right? 8)
you have to cut the battery box to install one just so you know.
I had one and now use AC Delco because they are better.IMHO.
But if you get AGM cell batteries (absorbed glass mat)you should check out Stinger and Lifeline batteries first. not so run of the mill.
i have an optima red top in my TGP and didn't have to cut anything... I had lost the battery tiedown thingie and just got a generic one at A&A auto and it worked great.
Also, just confirmed it is the 75/35 that I have.
I picked one up on my way home today...will be putting it in tonight. :wink: 8)
Well I put in the 75/35 RedTop. I had to open the holes in the battery box cover. Needed to raise the holes about 1.5" to get the right location. Other than that it fit in the hold down bracket perfectly...side to side fitment had more then enough room for adjustment.
She is starting on command now...when cool. Need a new starter for my warm start issues.
That and a larger alternator and electrical will be mint! ;)
Sound good Kenny
I have a 160 amp Alternator on mine due to all the gadgets and such......
i have the ebay link if ya want it ?
lemme know
Dave
It will be a couple of weeks before I pick one up. ;)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/89-94-REGAL-LUMINA-CUTLASS-GRAND-PRIX-2-8-3-1L-160-AMP_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33573QQitemZ7933450141QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
thats the one i have on two 3.1's
very happy with them
QuotePositive Battery Cable to Alternator must be Upgraded to Heavier Gauge Wire(4 Gauge Recommended)
Did you do this? I always thought the stock wire was too small even for a lesser output.
4 gauge seems rather large though. We have what 6 or 8 from the manufacturer?
160 Amp though...that is a powerful alternator...will have to ad steps to the IAC to keep the motor from stalling!! :o ;D ;D
No i never upgraded the wires as they said..... :P
spoke to the techs at work and tht said the stock size was good enough.
no problems running mine in both cars....
Had a redtop in my STE for about a year, and when it was sitting with the bad tranny we pulled it out and put it in my dads TGP. It fit in both cars with no modification at all, and it is a very nice battery. Car starts everytime with no problem, and lights don't dim when accumulator pump runs like it used to.
Shawn
you wont notice the difference unless you really put the battery to the test and then it will take a major shit and put out like 2 or 3 volts. they are total turds like that. went thru like 5 in 1 year same with those cs-130s ....garbage.
I think alot of your stuff is an acception to what is normal. I have had 4 Optima batteries in car over the last 4 or 5 years. They all worked perfectly. Now if you are plugging in 10,000,000 watts of bass banging stereo equipment and do not properly create load circuits to take the strain off of your battery and alternator then yes all of a sudden things will say "piss off I am not working anymore!" :icon_wink:
It makes me laugh at some of the car stereos that are out there...if it was in a house you would have to have a third phase added to your house and hook it into it's own 440Volt power source! :icon_lol:
I have heard of plenty of guys using the higher amp alternators without issue as well as the Optima series of batteries. If I went through more than 3 batteries and 3 alternators in one year I would have to use common sense and realize SOMETHING IS WRONG WITH MY CAR! :deal:
there is nothing wrong with my car now. and yes I could weld at over 100 MPH on a race track if I wanted. although I do NOT believe it is excessive, just better than a factory new 2005 GM has to offer. which is just right for what I am doing. no 10 k watt system like team toxic bass with their soundstream tarantulas. But enough for some hair tricks and makes the whole dash board flex. thats with 1 little speaker in the trunk ;) and yes the amp is capable of sucking every ounce of life from a red top or any battery the market has to offer but the alt must be capable of outputting current before during and after the w-7 drinks the battery, and do it without overheating. thats where the new alternater with the internal cooling fan really has the chance to shine.
Uhhh, yea :laugh:
So the stock has like 10 gauge, not big enough, sorry, do go with 6 gauge from alternator to battery, or to that post on the strut tower which is easier to access for most, not mine, so many take-offs its like nasty full, 2 gauge to the trunk to a 15 farad cap box, 800 watts (enough for me, don't like to advertise I have something worth stealing :laugh:) to an Image Dynamics sub, and the only space this sub takes out of the trunk is for the magnet :icon_twisted:. 400 watts (real watts here, full range and at RMS!) to the rear deck and rear doors, all Rainbow brand (te-he, not going to brag which ones, same for some of the fronts though there are some Morels and ADS PX stuff there too), same 400 watts for dash and front doors. HIDs were not wanting to light off, upgraded those pissy ass small wires and better but not, so stiffening caps for those and no problems now. Have had many cars with the Yellow Top Optimas and stereos like this and no problems ever to blame on the product :icon_rolleyes:, I would always check the rest of the system before i would blame my battery, like you say Kenny, after so many dead parts something else is wrong, and even if ok now, there is still something there that can be corrected/made better! I mean if they were shit then the company would be out of business by now with all of them they have sold over the last many years, blanket statements are common on the internet and don't provide much convincing for most of us :icon_lol:.
So did the stupid top battery posts stick up too much for the battery cover for you guys??? Must have on my first TGP I did this way and remember taking a hacksaw to shorten them. And even though the yellow is a deep cycle with more reserve power and all that good stuff, it still does its job starting an ice cold engine and here in MN, we know cold testing :icon_twisted: Starts my TGPs and TSTE as well as my 4.8L truck motor.
Jeff M
The 75/35 side posts must have been higher or the battery is slightly taller. The cover openings were about 3/4" off center high and wide. I opened up the stock holes with a plastic shaping tool (red hot puddy knife :icon_wink:) and you can not tell the difference.
Best part is my hot start/no crank issue...gone now! Must have been the battery or the connections even though the connections looked perfectly clean. :icon_biggrin:
Quote from: TGPilot on March 09, 2006, 11:52:41 AM
Anyone have an Optima Redtop in their car? What is the model number if you have it?
Or is there a chart somewhere for cross-reference other than Optima's site? Does nto show a battery for our 3.1 89-90 GP's. :roll:
I've got one in my trunk.....
Was this in the TGP?
Cuz if it was, that battery wasn't very old at all. :icon_sad:
Yeah Luke...she would not crank the car after sitting over night for about two weeks or when it was parked hot. Then when it would not start the car after sitting for 3 hours I said that's enough! I was parking on hills or having to bump start it down my driveway in Reverse for two weeks! :motz2: I put a load meter on the car from work. It records data like amp load, volt load, spikes, etc for a 48 hour period. Nothing showed at all. I was thinking that maybe the PMIII was turning on in the middle of the night or something and saw nothing on the recorder for two weeks. Just the battery would not hold a charge. :icon_cool:
That sucks.. it was only a few months old when you got the car (IIRC).
That was an exide battery wasn't it?
Quote from: Jeff M on March 17, 2006, 07:09:33 PM
Have had many cars with the Yellow Top Optimas and stereos like this and no problems ever to blame on the product :icon_rolleyes:, I would always check the rest of the system before i would blame my battery, like you say Kenny, after so many dead parts something else is wrong, and even if ok now, there is still something there that can be corrected/made better! I mean if they were shit then the company would be out of business by now with all of them they have sold over the last many years, blanket statements are common on the internet and don't provide much convincing for most of us :icon_lol:.
Jeff M
Yellow tops are good, I have never had one but have sense to know that this product is different than red top batteries, its for storage and thats the only way to have enough power (to have any fun anyway). I almost dropped the change for a blue top but backed out the last minute because the $$$ 3 digit price I didnt feel like wasting. If I am spending that much I will get a much higher quality Lifeline battery. They are heavier, but the one I had lasted longer than any other battery and I put it through more abuse. I have had some of the best batteries in the world with military testing in the most extreme vehicles used in battle. the ac delco gel cells were even WAY better than stupid tops and came with 7 year warranty. They are discontinued now, has anyone here even heard of these, or lifeline? Lifeline batteries have brass posts with studs, and use more lead per sqare inch so thats why It worked so well when I first got my speaker and was using a Phoenix Gold Titanium 1150 watt amp. The ground was too long and that amp was covered under warranty. switched up to a 1000/1 JL which is about 1200 watts. already gone through the wiring several times working hard to keep every connection free of contaminents and trimming them down, looking at every possible weak link and improving it. The greatest thing I ever did to my car is install the cs-130-d though. so much better than the 130, its not even funny. 10 years newer technology and since it runs so much cooler, they pack it full of more goodies(crap that produces clean power for longer) and the bearings are oversized. basically you can abuse it for way longer and it will beg for more.
Didnt want you tho think that my car is just a POS. The speaker is actually what determines what your charging system requirement. lots of watts on a flimsy speaker thats not in a sealed box will distort too much to ever utilize that much power.
hmmm i may need one
my A/C delco is having trouble keeping up with all my electronics...
Delco-Remy CS-130D type 170 Amp Standard Internal Regulator Alternator; its a CS-130-D but they say it has improvments such as
More open design for better air flow
Larger bearings
Dual Internal Fans to increase air volume
Regulator and Rectifier located on the outside, away from stator and rotor heat
I had a Optima Red Top installed a few weeks back. I like it.