Ok, i read up on 60*V6 on how to do it, but for us TGP guys, what/where is the wire to use that we can have 12 volt power only when the engines running onthat side of the engine near the turbo? I want to do the heated 02 someday and just wanted to know, mabye help other people too
I have a heated O2 in mine and i ran the wire from the fuel pump replay which is a accessory 12v with the key on.
now my Cutlass has that relay on the passenger side but i believe the TGP's have it on the drivers side where the positive power post is.
just connect to that for +12 accessory for heat, if its a 3 wire O2 then one is ground and one is the signal wire to the ECM
on my 3 wire AC Delco O2 there is 2 white wires one positive and one negative and one black wire which is the ECM signal wire.
just a heater so no matter which white wire goes to positive or which goes to negative just one on each.
simple process
wouldn't you rather have a power source that's hot in run rather than hot when on? I wouldn't want it to be being heated if i'm just sitting somewhere listening to the radio..
oh thats a good point gutlass, anything you suggest for a place to wire it?
I'd have to look over my diagrams quick, can't think of where specifically off the top of my head.
Quote from: GutlessSupreme on March 21, 2006, 07:00:21 AM
wouldn't you rather have a power source that's hot in run rather than hot when on? I wouldn't want it to be being heated if i'm just sitting somewhere listening to the radio..
Why would your heated 02 be heating if you are listening to the radio? Only time your fuel pump/heated 02 will run is when the key is turned forward to the ON position. If you wire your stereo properly you should be able to turn your key back towards you (ACC) to listen to the radio and the ignition is not active nor is your fuel pump. :icon_cool:
The key or switch should be: ACC, Lock, Unlock, On and Start.
ACC: power for radio.
Lock: remove key.
Unlock:Steering wheel will move.
ON: Power to fuel pump and ignition.
START: Power to starter.
That's what I meant... ;) :icon_lol:
Edited my post...got ACC and Ignition written wrong. :icon_redface:
Quote from: TGPilot on March 21, 2006, 09:03:13 AM
Why would your heated 02 be heating if you are listening to the radio? Only time your fuel pump/heated 02 will run is when the key is turned forward to the ON position. If you wire your stereo properly you should be able to turn your key back towards you (ACC) to listen to the radio and the ignition is not active nor is your fuel pump. :icon_cool:
Well, I'd forgotten about ACC, but I knonw that I've had certain times where I needed the car "on" and not just in ACC.
I used the "purple" wire ;) anyone know which wire is the purple wire? sy/ ty guys?
my O2 does not come on when in ACC mode and nether does the fuel pump.
only with the key ON turned forward and when engine running.
sorry i wrote it wrong above.....it was 4:00 am and all :laugh:
ok im still a little unclear on where to wire the power source
fuel pump relay 12V
test light or meter and find the power wire or tap it from the relay or fuse itself.
Its kinda still up in the air, The leads to the fuel tank are hella long and undersized so you really dont want to add stress there because they are prone to melt in your gas tank :icon_eek: and the purple wire is undersized and known to catch fires on starters. so unless you upgrade either one you are risking either burning up the engine bay ro having your car explode, you choose. :laugh:
That might be a good thing :icon_biggrin: my engine bay burn up and Invasions car explode then we both can start over the correct way :laugh: :laugh: :icon_razz: OOOOH SNAP! unpimp your auto!
What are you talking about melting wires and starter fires??? I have NEVER HEARD of a starter fire on a TGP/TSTE or a 3.1 or 2.8 equipped GM car for that matter (excluding Fieros)! :icon_evil:
How much amperage do you think a heated 02 pulls from a system?
In fact saying the wires to the Fuel tank are too small is rather idiotic also. There is no more than a 0.10VDC drop between the battery volts and what is at the fuel pump! That is easily verified either with a datalogger program or actually testing with a DVM. If anything that will show minimal resistance in the line which inturn means better current flow to power the pump. Basic OHMs law.
You really need to stop posting things as factual if there is no FACT behind your statement! People who are doing searchs on TGP's or TSTE's will think this thing is nothing more than a pile of shit and will stay away from them! It may be true in other platforms as you referenced the Ty/Sy world...but there is a HUGE difference between the two! This is not the first time you have factually stated information that may be a 1 in 10,000 chance of happening!
Consider this WARNING #1! :icon_cool:
I thought it was clear my light hearted humor would diffuse the flamers, but if you think there is no chance of it happening and it is all because Gangsta GPs ride is just fucked up beyond repair and noone else will have those problems, I got proof of both wires having issues on a TGP! and I dont need a damn datalogger to diagnose a problem I always do it by ear and help from others on the forum. all I do is feel the wire and see if its hot and/or look for signs of melted jacket or oxidation. Ban me if thats the only way to contain me. I dont think I am too out of bounds, and others have taken my side during technical disputes. Kenny, :icon_sad: this is what I was afraid of when you took over! :icon_evil: I was here long before you got this gig. :icon_mad:
I have no intention of BANNING you...unless of course you continue to post factual information without fact behind it.
Like I said... 1 issue out of 10,000 is not reason to say it is a common occurance. I know in the DSM world there is an issue with undersized wiring going to the fuel pump and having to upgrade. There has never been a common issue with the TGP/TSTE's fuel or starter wiring.
The starter wire getting hot would only deem an issue if you had over current problems...which again we do not collectively have an issue with.
If your car is a POS it is something you labeled your car as...not me. One thing you have to remember and I know you and others have been reminded of on this board and W-body...they are 16-17 years old. Not new by any form or reason and if the past owners have not taken care of them more issues will arrise as time goes by.
Have no fear I am not flaming you...just letting you know that a few of your posts have had factual "sounding" information and it is not a common occurance. I have this forum because I have a love for this car and platform. I wish to help others not hinder them. I also have high hopes this Spring of more publicity of our cars to gain a higher interest in them. Possibly even making them more desirable and get the value up where it belongs!
Me "taking over this forum" was not a conquest...merely wanting to keep things going! I do not have nor have I ever had a dictatorship stand on what happens here. I will correct those people openly who state information without fact though.
Quote from: GangstGP on March 22, 2006, 11:53:45 AM
That might be a good thing :icon_biggrin: my engine bay burn up and Invasions car explode then we both can start over the correct way :laugh: :laugh: :icon_razz: OOOOH SNAP! unpimp your auto!
Do ya stay up a night and dream this stuff up or do you actually believe this BS
Don't worry about my car pal as i don't worry about yours.
the heated O2 has such mnimal amperage it WILL not affect anything!!
do ya think if someone was dumb enough to burn down their car that they would tell us about it? most people would not even atempt to do some of the crap we are doing therefore they wouldnt have a problem. I never labeled my car a POS either and take full responsibility for any dumb mistakes I have made. Trial and error has been the way I get problems solved when nobody at these forums has answers for me.
wanna see a melted wire from inside my gas tank? Yea a fuel pump can draw a lot of current out of those skinny wires and be OK . for the average guy, but...especially when you ask it to do shit thats way beyond stock requirements of a N/A 2.8/3.1. and shorting out a circuit to heat an O2 is minimal? yea, when its operating at RUNNING temp. but not when it first fires. add the extra duty of trying to pressurize the fuel lines when you are low on fuel/or unpressurized gas lines. Guilty! :icon_biggrin:
BTW, thx for not banning me :icon_cool:
ya i wanna see what that looks like. :icon_cool:
I dunno the guys i work with are licenced electronic techs and i OK'ed this with them using the GM wiring diagrams in the servce manual and tested to see the draw on that circuit with the heated O2.
As i run to them before i add anything to my car electronic.....they give it a OK or show me how to better the existing scheme.
electricity scares the beejeeeezzzuzzz out of me.... :icon_redface:
were currently putting in a Alarm/Starter by Viper/DEI and i have hijacked one of them to help me :laugh:
I dont got a pic for you guys, sorry. We threw the sender unit away after my mechanic(Wade) one of my best friends who works at a shop here tried to repair the wiring and make the sender work but it was fried beyond repair. you cant repair a sender unit being submerged in gas, you just drop the $300 on a new one. I would have had a better chance with my heat shrink end connectors :icon_cool: and gardner/bender crimpers, can fabricate some badass wiring thats never coming apart.