Okay, so since there is soooo much information on these forums and questions are often asked more than once, I'm thinking of creating a top 10 list of the most common problems and their fixes with links back to important threads for my website. What I'm looking for is from the people who have been around this site for a while, what would you guys say are the top 10 most common problems? I'm thinking the crossover, the PMIII leaking... what else? Even the stupid little things like the speakers blowing out and whatnot.
(Anybody who wants to post their sollutions with the problems are allowed too ;) )
Cross over pipe, Power master III Internal seal leaks, Accumulator, pressure switch, motor relay, rear leaking, lol! Rear calipers siezing, door handles breaking, upper dog bones wearing out, oil return line collapsing, Power seats Occasionally stop working, Keyless entry never fuckin workin, or occaisoanlly works, just had pathetic range, thats all i can think of, the Powermaster III, some of the stuff isnt too common, but the Accumulator and Leaking is
dogbones: 8 washers from hardware store
door handles: remove cover, unclip, pop off and thread out adjuster, replace.
door locks binding: remove panel, spray with tri-flow, replace.
8 washers, huh? Got to napa and buy new ones, take the bolts off on and replace, then the other
Most common problem is stalling missing and eratic idle. :icon_sad:
Jud
God my idle sucks, ill leave it runing to go say hi to a friend, and i can hear its idle just all over the place and stumbbling and poor
what would be the best way to test through a rough idle though? its a pretty general problem... maybe plugs/wires, vac lines, sensors, x-over...? do any of you guys have a flowchart type of idea to fix it?
This 10 most common problems can get pretty hairy man although it is a GREAT idea.
The problem I see with a flow-chart is the fact that one of 3 sensors can easily mask another problem or give a false trouble which has nothing to do with what actually is wrong.
What most need to do as soon as they buy a TGP is replace ALL THE SENSORS (WITH GM PARTS!), ensure it has a good x-over and 02, ohm the injectors, and test the FPR. Then start looking for vacuum leaks.
If it has compression and the turbo isn't seized she should be running pretty good especially with the proper chip tweeks. :icon_cool:
Quote from: sleeperred90tgp on March 30, 2006, 07:27:15 PM
Most common problem is stalling missing and eratic idle. :icon_sad:
Jud
If you can rule out all things mechanical its in the chip and can be fixed easily with a few tweeks in the right area.Later
Quote from: flybynite on March 31, 2006, 08:15:02 AM
Quote from: sleeperred90tgp on March 30, 2006, 07:27:15 PM
Most common problem is stalling missing and eratic idle. :icon_sad:
Jud
If you can rule out all things mechanical its in the chip and can be fixed easily with a few tweeks in the right area.Later
ya ok, I got my chip and it didnt help much at all, bad pipes and faulty injectors fuck an idle up pretty bad
Quote from: Prospeeder on March 31, 2006, 02:14:26 PM
Quote from: flybynite on March 31, 2006, 08:15:02 AM
Quote from: sleeperred90tgp on March 30, 2006, 07:27:15 PM
Most common problem is stalling missing and eratic idle. :icon_sad:
Jud
If you can rule out all things mechanical its in the chip and can be fixed easily with a few tweeks in the right area.Later
ya ok, I got my chip and it didnt help much at all, bad pipes and faulty injectors frick an idle up pretty bad
Like I said if you can rule out all things MECHANICAL its in the chip.I dont know who's burning your chips but your putting alot on there shoulders if you expect there first burn to be perfect.With my experience it takes several attempts to get it dialed in just rite.Thats what data logging is for...Later
Quote from: Prospeeder on March 31, 2006, 02:14:26 PM
ya ok, I got my chip and it didnt help much at all, bad pipes and faulty injectors frick an idle up pretty bad
Do you still have the leaking cross-over on your car? :icon_eek:
Quote from: flybynite on March 31, 2006, 03:42:07 PM
Quote from: Prospeeder on March 31, 2006, 02:14:26 PM
Quote from: flybynite on March 31, 2006, 08:15:02 AM
Quote from: sleeperred90tgp on March 30, 2006, 07:27:15 PM
Most common problem is stalling missing and eratic idle. :icon_sad:
Jud
If you can rule out all things mechanical its in the chip and can be fixed easily with a few tweeks in the right area.Later
ya ok, I got my chip and it didnt help much at all, bad pipes and faulty injectors frick an idle up pretty bad
Like I said if you can rule out all things MECHANICAL its in the chip.I dont know who's burning your chips but your putting alot on there shoulders if you expect there first burn to be perfect.With my experience it takes several attempts to get it dialed in just rite.Thats what data logging is for...Later
Oh i thought it said that nothing mechanical can make the bad idle its just the chip, sorry.
And ya i still have an original pipe, BUT Im going in for a job interview tomarrow so hopfully i can get cash flow and relpace it
Hope you get the job. ;)
Jud
Quote from: sleeperred90tgp on March 31, 2006, 08:27:37 PM
Hope you get the job. ;)
Jud
Thanks, i hope so too, its at Papa Murphy's wich is nice
Quote from: TGPilot on March 31, 2006, 07:58:15 AM
This 10 most common problems can get pretty hairy man although it is a GREAT idea.
The problem I see with a flow-chart is the fact that one of 3 sensors can easily mask another problem or give a false trouble which has nothing to do with what actually is wrong.
What most need to do as soon as they buy a TGP is replace ALL THE SENSORS (WITH GM PARTS!), ensure it has a good x-over and 02, ohm the injectors, and test the FPR. Then start looking for vacuum leaks.
If it has compression and the turbo isn't seized she should be running pretty good especially with the proper chip tweeks. :icon_cool:
T's 2 cents worth:
It is a great idea but I think if you were to say the top 10 things to change or maintenance to stop the top 20 most common problems for under $400 would probably be a much shorter list ;) I dont think spending under $400 is all that bad when you consider what it is we own!
As TGPilot stated the absolute BEST thing you can do first thing is replace ALL the sensors. The total cost for GM parts for them is roughly $250 and is well worth it.
I would add to that list vacuum hoses - $70. Even the smallest crack can cause agony in trouble-shooting problems that dont even seem related.
The coil packs as well - $19 each for good ones and $26 for performance ones. I cant tell you how much of a difference that made in my poor idle and hard starts. I have nothing to go on for performance increase since I bought it in bad shape but I'm sure providing better and faster spark helped.
O-rings help stop those tiny leaks you didnt know you had as well - $3.
Simply CLEANING the TB works wonders on some rough idles and hard starts. A can of CRC Intake Cleaner is $4 and will last you a long time.
Plugs AND wires - $80 - Nuff said here :icon_mrgreen:
And my alltime favorite is WD40. If it should move and doesn't... :laugh:
Again just my 2 cents worth but like the saying goes "Pay a hundered bucks today or put it off and pay a thousand tomorrow". Or worse yet we see another TGP in the JY getting parted out because someone got frustrated and couldnt do simple maintenance.
How about the top 10 upgrades over stock, accessory components. must work with stock engine/tranny combination to narrow it down.
QuoteIt is a great idea but I think if you were to say the top 10 things to change or maintenance to stop the top 20 most common problems for under $400 would probably be a much shorter list
QuoteHow about the top 10 upgrades over stock, accessory components. must work with stock engine/tranny combination to narrow it down.
sounds like a good idea to me.
Quote from: tcristea on April 02, 2006, 02:20:33 PM
Quote from: TGPilot on March 31, 2006, 07:58:15 AM
This 10 most common problems can get pretty hairy man although it is a GREAT idea.
The problem I see with a flow-chart is the fact that one of 3 sensors can easily mask another problem or give a false trouble which has nothing to do with what actually is wrong.
What most need to do as soon as they buy a TGP is replace ALL THE SENSORS (WITH GM PARTS!), ensure it has a good x-over and 02, ohm the injectors, and test the FPR. Then start looking for vacuum leaks.
If it has compression and the turbo isn't seized she should be running pretty good especially with the proper chip tweeks. :icon_cool:
T's 2 cents worth:
It is a great idea but I think if you were to say the top 10 things to change or maintenance to stop the top 20 most common problems for under $400 would probably be a much shorter list ;) I dont think spending under $400 is all that bad when you consider what it is we own!
As TGPilot stated the absolute BEST thing you can do first thing is replace ALL the sensors. The total cost for GM parts for them is roughly $250 and is well worth it.
I would add to that list vacuum hoses - $70. Even the smallest crack can cause agony in trouble-shooting problems that dont even seem related.
The coil packs as well - $19 each for good ones and $26 for performance ones. I cant tell you how much of a difference that made in my poor idle and hard starts. I have nothing to go on for performance increase since I bought it in bad shape but I'm sure providing better and faster spark helped.
O-rings help stop those tiny leaks you didnt know you had as well - $3.
Simply CLEANING the TB works wonders on some rough idles and hard starts. A can of CRC Intake Cleaner is $4 and will last you a long time.
Plugs AND wires - $80 - Nuff said here :icon_mrgreen:
And my alltime favorite is WD40. If it should move and doesn't... :laugh:
Again just my 2 cents worth but like the saying goes "Pay a hundered bucks today or put it off and pay a thousand tomorrow". Or worse yet we see another TGP in the JY getting parted out because someone got frustrated and couldnt do simple maintenance.
Well first off I don't agree with purchasing GM sensors. I don't have a GM sensor on my motor except the IAC and TPS, oil pressure switch, low coolant, steering and ac pressure switches. and I think it runs pretty well. ;) Haven,t changed one of the aftermarket in 6 or 7 years. If you wan't to pay double so be it. :icon_rolleyes:
Next vaccum hoses for 70. Wow you must be rich. 10 bucks will cover it.
Next coils for 19. Where did you get them. :icon_question: I have never seen one for less than 29, aftermarket included. Please don't tell me Acell. I have bought a bunch of them at different places.
195k miles and never had to clean the TB :icon_question:
Only o-ring i found to leak was the oil pump drive. The only other ones I know of are in the oil cooler and the FI. Never change any of them until I change the FI and I use the old shit from the doner.
Lets face it you can get buy for alot less. Best thing to do is learn how to troubleshoot and fix what breakes. All it takes is a shop manual and a volt meter.
That's a dimes worth. :laugh:
Jud
So that means you overpaid 8 cents or I underpaid 8 cents :laugh: ;)
Seriously though, rich I am not but what it saves in the long run is what matters and keeping her running well is the most important thing.
:laugh: I am going to have to side with tcristea on this one! I think this new user is learning way fast! I think the car is going to do well on the track and be a good daily driver.
AFTERMARKET SUCKS..... Im rollin with GM baby!
I'm not arguing the fact that learning how to troubleshoot and having a good voltmeter arent important. My point here is that if you are going to do something dont do it half-assed. I know for a fact that you get what you pay for and I have learned that aftermarket SUCKS for our cars :laugh:
As for the coils Delco from AdvanceAuto for $19 each. I could have spent $26 for "high performance" but why?
For the o-rings, why not change em while you're there changing everything they connect? Cheap and you know they are going to be good when you're done.
Cleaning the TB in my opinion just makes sense because it keeps it lubricated and gunk-free, again why not if you're there?
You are absolutely correct when you said that all things can be replaced cheaper and re-using old from donors is a great idea if you're strapped hard for cash and need the car running now. But if you can go with OEM and not get beat down by the wife then IMO it's the best way to go.
Not arguing just offering back some of the things I've learned in the short amount of time I've been here and it's just MY opinion and everyone is welcome to ignore it or not ;)