Ok so some of you know I've had some problems with my car randomly dying...shutting off for no reason, then starting up fine. Well, now, I'm confused...a new problem. I'm driving down our main drag, actually driving decent and normal and maintaining a normal speed when the TGP suddenly starts to "wind down"?...I don't even know how to describe it.
It just made this low sound from around the exhaust, more than likely under the hood, and it was a hard rumbling...the car started the shudder. It seemed that whenever I tried to give it more gas and get up to a faster speed it shifted hard into gear and felt like it was running on less than the 6 cylinders it has...I've never experienced a loss of clyinders so I'm just guessing and describing it as best I can. If I floored it, it went really slow accelerating, and you all know they aren't supposed to move that slow.
Can anyone recommend what they think it is before I go blowing money I don't have on having the shop look at it. Please help me.
Krenzy
I edited the title of your thread because it has bounced all over the place! ;)
-Kenny :icon_cool:
can we get pics of the motor?
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e315/grinders_18/March82006009.jpg)
The hose sticking out of the valve cover has been replaced by an oil breather filter...My worst fear and best idea is the x-over...and I can't get ahold of Jeff M. about a new one.
I'll also add that there is a cut on the top of the exhaust a few inched after the cat closer to the rear...but it's been clamped shut since I got it and it's never been a problem.
Thanks and I'll be on probably once more tonight before I go to work so I hope I can help even more. Thank you.
I'm sure the x-over is a big contributor to your problem.
Probably wouldn't hurt to do the typical tune up after you replace the x-over too. Plugs, wires, Crank sensor, O2 sensor, Throttle position sensor, etc..
I know Jeff has been away for a while, so It's hard to say when he will get back to you.
Quote from: GangstGP on April 24, 2006, 05:23:12 PM
can we get pics of the motor?
Are you trying to get a vision of the motor to link with it telepathically and diagnose it like the new OnStar system?
If you say that you have ground straps for him and it will fix it you are PERMA-BANNED!!!! :icon_cool:
(http://www.magnet-eze.com.au/images/All_Products_Gallery_500/images/Leather_Belt_Mens.jpg)
ground strap. :laugh:
that cross over needs to come out and be replaced with a non cracked unit, needs a new O2 sensor and top end cleaning, new crank sensor, plugs and wires. injectors can cause issues with stalling and poor idle too, I am proof of that as mine has smoothed out with 6 new bosch injectors, runs better than it ever has.
I know it sounds hypocritical, but don't use Bosch ignition parts. These injectors will have to prove themselves, but bosch sensors, plugs and wires and o2 sensors are terrible!!! use AcDelco plugs R42LTS, Delco wires, and a GM o2 sensor. new xover and all that you will be riding smooth.
Agreed Crossover would make the diffrence
:laugh: lol. i was wandering the same thing.
Quote from: TGPilot on April 24, 2006, 07:13:48 PM
Quote from: GangstGP on April 24, 2006, 05:23:12 PM
can we get pics of the motor?
Are you trying to get a vision of the motor to link with it telepathically and diagnose it like the new OnStar system?
If you say that you have ground straps for him and it will fix it you are PERMA-BANNED!!!! :icon_cool:
:laugh: are you guys serious? It bothers you that much? maybe it wont help, but cant hurt. only in the long run.
Not much to add, agreed with what has already been suggested, as I had these problems and they all went away when the chip/crossover/sensors were replaced......
Oh, stock TGP engine compartments are nasty looking I decided....WAY to busy and cluttered :leaving: :willy_nilly:
does anyone think mabye its a fuel delivery problem like the fuel pump for somthin?
Quote from: Prospeeder on April 24, 2006, 10:36:30 PM
does anyone think mabye its a fuel delivery problem like the fuel pump for somthin?
By what he described, I'll say, closed/part throttle, full/lots of vacuum, plus cracked crossover, O2 reads lots of air, dumps tons of fuel in it, makes it bog from being overly rich, it dies......so it could "technically" be a fuel delivery problem, caused by other things.
no, its the electronic components not functioning properly from a weak charging system! :icon_lol: J/K!
Ok, so after a few months, here's where I'm at: Replaced the cracked crossover with a Kenny Crossover (Kick ass unit, and it sounds better under the hood), Invasion1 custom chip, new plugs, O2 sensor, oil change, new coolant.....Well, anyways, I'd been avoiding tackling this car because of my time consuming job, and I recently got some time off. So When all this has been changed, I'm left with a problem yet: The tranny still doesn't shift/feel right. I replaced, well, since it was totally gone, I PLACED, the transmission T check valve and did it right...still kicks whenever it changes gears, and it takes forever to change the gears. Actually it runs the gears right up to 6100 rpm before it feels like it will change...lately I've been manually letting off the gas so it can shift for fear of something bad worse happening. I'm really needing more suggestions. This car needs to be ready for the winter season and I'm commiting all my extra time to her. Could it be a bad tranny filter? Timing off? Tranny going out? Torque converter going out? Did I install something wrong? I know the crossover is seated right, and I reset my ECM for the chip. I'm going nuts wracking my brain with the few things about this car I know...Like I said, what else can I do?
Krenzy
How is the TV cable?
When its not adjusted properly it will shift hard and shift at higher RPMs....I would check that first, its free....
I think he has a ICM issue, either that, or a CPS. Its getting warmed up, shutting off, winds down the motor, cools off for a second, and restarts. To me thats a ICM or Coil or CPS.
Ummmm....?? What's the TV cable, ICM, coil, and the CPS (crank positioning sensor?) ....I'm not good with terminology either. How do I go about checking these things? Should also be noted that when I picked up the car it would easily roach the tires. Now, when I try to do a brake stand and keep both pedals floored, all that happens is the engine winds up, but the car doesn't move forward till I let off the brakes. Then instead of going 0 to 60 in the 6.6 it used to, it takes about 12 seconds. Then like I said, it goes all the way up to about 6100 rpms, and I manually shift it by letting off the gas and going back into it.
If you could let me know what those mean I'd appreciate it. Thanks!
Krenzy
ICM = Ignition control Module
Coil = Sits on top of the ICM and both provide spark
CPS = Crank Position Sensor
TV Cable = Transmission Variable Cable. Works in conjunction with the throttle cable to shift gears when you mash on it.
Sounds like you need to start with a good tune up, and work your way from there.
How do I go about checking the TV cable? What exactly am I looking for when I'm doing it?
Quote from: grinders_18 on July 31, 2006, 12:46:49 PM
How do I go about checking the TV cable? What exactly am I looking for when I'm doing it?
If you look at the linkage on the throttle body, there are 3 different connections. The bottom 2 are the throttle linkages. On the top there is a single black connector. That is the TV cable....If you follow that line and look back you will see a black "thing"....
http://home.earthlink.net/~z284pwr/grand_prix/tv_cable/tv_1.JPG
That is what it looks like...
If have skinny arms and can see, look from the top down and you will see the top of the connector....
http://home.earthlink.net/~z284pwr/grand_prix/tv_cable/tv_3.JPG
Looks like that....its a button....if you push it, it will unlock so you can adjust it....The easiest way to check it is to press the button, then push the cone that is connected to the end of the cable that the connector extends from all the way back in, you will hear it click....When its all the way back in, while still pushing it down, open the throttle all the way, then release the button, that is approximately the proper adjustment.
Ok, 2 questions...well three really.
1) Is there a simpler way of pushing that TV cable button? My hands are small but I can't find a place to wedge them in...even with the scraped up knuckles.
2) Is the crank positioning sensor and the crankshaft position sensor the same sensor?
3) Where is the CPS located and how difficult would it be to change in 100+ degree temps lol.
Quote from: grinders_18 on July 31, 2006, 03:27:59 PM
Ok, 2 questions...well three really.
1) Is there a simpler way of pushing that TV cable button? My hands are small but I can't find a place to wedge them in...even with the scraped up knuckles.
2) Is the crank positioning sensor and the crankshaft position sensor the same sensor?
3) Where is the CPS located and how difficult would it be to change in 100+ degree temps lol.
1. You can rock the engine forward to do it? Unbolt the top engine dog bone mounts and use something to pull it forward, or you could try a long screw driver?
2. Yes..
3. Its located on the BACK of the block, just above the oil pan, about center of the engine....just below the knock sensor....How difficult.....in 100 degree weather? ....I wouldn't even attempt it....You can't get to very much very easily under the car in the back....I haven't ever tried on the TGP though...a 5spd you could probably do it. It would probably be easier to attempt it while you have the engine rocked forward doing the TV cable....
I had a friend help me try to work on the car today. Needless to say we gave up after 25 minutes of sweating to death. He told me something interesting thought I'd ask you guys. Have you heard of a torque converter SWITCH? Not sure what it is, and he's not sure where it was located, i.e., inside or outside the T.C., but he told me his Cutlass ciera was doing something quite similar and they had to replace a torque converter switch. I've never heard of it, but then again I don't know shit about mechanical stuff yet. Any thoughts? Curious, what are the symptoms of having a loose TV cable or a bad CPS? Just for my own knowing.
A TCC usually has an issue with it causing the TC to lock up and the car will stall coming to a light because its still fully locked.
With your issues, I don't think that would be the problem.....If the car actually moved, that means the TC must be working or it would just sit and stall to 6000 and never move the car....If its shifting really hard like you say, thats a vacuum modulator problem or a TV cable problem as those are really the only 2 things that a transmission can have go wrong unless of course.....eek....the trans is slipping way bad and on its way out the door. How does the trans fluid smell? Dark brown and burnt? I hope not?
I'm guessing TV cable or Vacuum Modulator. Check the line that runs from the vacuum modulator (It sticks out of the front of the Trans, next to the AC Accumlator) to the intake plenum, it could've fallen off, which would cause a problem. Could be ICM or COils too.
Mitch
Ok, well just how insanely tough are the coils and the ICM to change? I don't figure the coils are too terribly hard, but I don't know about the ICM.
Quote from: grinders_18 on August 01, 2006, 07:01:50 PM
Ok, well just how insanely tough are the coils and the ICM to change? I don't figure the coils are too terribly hard, but I don't know about the ICM.
Well, considering the ICM is what the coils are on....figure it out :icon_wink: It really not that hard, 3 bolts, 3 wire clips, off it comes....
Thanks...I seriously didn't know that. Like I said, I don't have a map of where eveything is on a car, and that makes nearly every trip to opening the hood an overwhelming experience lol. Now I know how my girlfriend felt when I told her to show me where the engine was LMAO!
Its really honestly not that "hard" of a thing...
It would be even funnier to go and ask her again when you have the engine out :icon_eek: :laugh:
We used to be like OMG!!!!!! AND ENGINE!!!! FUEL INJECTED!!! AHHHH!!!! IT won't come out!!! !?!?!?!? #)(*$#)& :LJFD)(#@*&$ 893890 now its just a laughing matter and within 2 hours its ready to come out...
Oh and you would be SO amazed at how much easier stuff is to work on when you have no engine/transmission in the car :icon_lol:
Quote from: z284pwr on August 02, 2006, 10:41:46 AM
Its really honestly not that "hard" of a thing...
It would be even funnier to go and ask her again when you have the engine out :icon_eek: :laugh:
We used to be like OMG!!!!!! AND ENGINE!!!! FUEL INJECTED!!! AHHHH!!!! IT won't come out!!! !?!?!?!? #)(*$#)& :LJFD)(#@*&$ 893890 now its just a laughing matter and within 2 hours its ready to come out...
Oh and you would be SO amazed at how much easier stuff is to work on when you have no engine/transmission in the car :icon_lol:
Not that hes recomending to do that to change the coils or ICM. But it is fairly easy and straight foward.
I tell you what...I started to read the post, knew you were joking, but still broke into a cold sweat lol. I find it kinda funny: All I know about cars, lest mechanical, is that I can tell you what year, make, model, edition, size engine, stats, and various other wierd things about car...I got my girlfriend doing the same, but when you pop the hood, she takes forever to figure out how many cylinders it has lol...even her mom's Jeep had it flat out on the thing: V8...lol
did you get your lower engine mount yet? adjust the tv cable all you want, it will still buck and slap.
Lower engine mount? ...No...? ...never thought that was a problem. I took her out for a spin again today, and I forgot to mention another thing I noticed, although I'm sure it's still the TV cable or coils and ICM....Whenever it shifts from first, like if I let on it and keep it on so it shifts itself into second, it sounds like the blowoff valve is staying open...like there's the blowoff hiss when it shifts from first to second, but it doesn't quit when it's in second, it just keeps going...Possible that it's just the TV cable that needs to be adjusted or is there something wrong with the wastegate, or other turbo part? I know when I had my car in the shop a couple months ago they said the wastegate looked fine, but I dunno.
It took me like a few years to get over that problem. once you figure it out you will find more and more leaks before you get pissed and replace all the rubber tees, elbows, vac lines and couplings.
So are you suggesting there's a vacuum leak somewhere? How did you fix the problem?
I think he is saying he didnt. My car also hisses. I think thats the blow off valve maintaining a certain PSI into the Intake, without forcing more air in then the TPS (your foot on the gas pedal) can work with. Its maintaining a happy medium until you mash on it.
Quote from: grinders_18 on August 03, 2006, 03:59:33 AM
So are you suggesting there's a vacuum leak somewhere? How did you fix the problem?
buy your car a vac. spider if you havent already, there only like 30 bucks. the couplings should be replaced with the blue silicone hose with the orange middle. although the black will work.
and if the vac lines just pull off easy then they are worn out. you should have to pull and twist to work them off. vacu-tite makes really good ones.
I'm going to adjust that TV cable and replace the CPS today...besides undoing the front dog bone mounts, what else is required in pulling the engine forward? I'm ratchet-strapping it to a tree lol...only thing there is. So I attach the hook to the loop that sticks up from the middle mount, right? God I hate doing things to my car when I don't even know what i'm doing lol. Any help? Anything else need to be removed?
Yeah, thats pretty much it, undo the front mounts, the engine will move once you undo them, just hook the strape to either mount and have at it, we just used a custom length chain and a bolt....
Well, I replaced the CPS, put in new dog bone mounts...tried to do adjust the TV cable, but that button your car has, mine DOESN'T have it! WTF??? The car still runs weird, but it MAY have helped...I can't be sure, but I think that when it kicks/slams (not too hard but definately not soft) into second, it shifts into third decently...before it would suck as much of second as it could and then I'd have to manually shift into third, i.e., let my foot off the gas and let it back down again. So, as I said, it MAY have helped, but I dunno cuz it still is slow as hell from the get go, but after a few seconds it picks up. It should be flying and roaching tires lol. It was faster before, what the hell happened?
Anyone think maybe my tranny filter needs to be changed? Any other ideas? I was going to replaced the coils and ICM but I don't see how they could be affecting how it shifts at all. I really need any ideas you guys have. Thanks a bunch!
Krenzy
how many miles does the car have? I looked for that button too and couldnt find it when i was worrying ab out my trans. You did make sure to replace the Trans vacuum Modulator and the checkvavle and make sure theres no vacuum leaks from there right?
Replaced. Less than 150xxx on her, and now for the creme-de-la-creme, the thing that made my night even better........MY 93 CAMARO is doing the SAME shit!!!! What the hell am I doing?? Driving normally, maintaining a steady speed at about 35ish, and all of a sudden the exhaust gets loud...well, I have a custom Magnaflow exhaust, but it got REALLY loud...then when I go to step on it, thinking immediately the same problem is following me, it does the same thing as the TGP: it slowly gets to speed...only difference is it isn't kicking into gear like the prix does. Don't get me wrong, it sounds frickin awesome, but the power is being sucked out of my two most prized non-living-possessions....what's going on here? Checked under the car and under the hood to see if anything was glowing: negative. Just a power loss and loud exhuast. There's still power there, but nothing like before....I'd say I've lost 1/4 to 1/3 of my power. Please help. I can't take this guessing game my cars keep giving me and whenever I try to set up an appointment with a GM dealership to get it looked at, they're either not open when I can drop it off, or they're filled up. I've proven to myself that I can change a CPS on a TGP, so I feel I can do alot of other things (not getting cocky)...Any help is a blessing. Thanks guys!
Krenzy
There are only 3 things that I can think are wrong.
1) Cat Converter is clogged
2) ICM or coil is going/is bad
3) A bad fuel injector.
I am leaning to a fuel injector this time thou. But I would probly replace the ICM/Coil as well, and the fuel injectors. I replaced the ones in my TGP from a L36 Buick Rivy. And it made a diference of night and day.
if it shifts hard then replace your lower engine mount. Did you already do that? I didnt feel like looking back 3 pages. :laugh: They only last a couple years so if you never did it then I can assure you its bad. I went for a ride in a tgp with 17,000 original miles and the motor mount was completely blown out. that was the only thing wrong with the car, it was 100% mint brand new except the mount. I guess all the weight of the motor smashes it down flat because its hydraulic filled.
I'm pretty sure the lower mount is hashed, but would that cause the tranny to not shift right and have a loss of power? I'll check out salvage yards around here for injectors....What year and make/model of cars are the best injectors found in? What year Riviera?
There was a link to a guy selling the injectors new for 180 bucks on ebay.. I got mine out of a 96 Buick Riveria (SP). And it has run flawlessly since (I got mine brand new for 20 bucks, dont ask LOL).. New injectors also fixed my shifting problem I might add. Not sure how or why. But mine was taking forever to shift, actually hit rev limiter befor it would shift, and also REALLY HARD shifting.
I'm thinking about replacing the T check valve I just installed...if I can find a O.E. replacement. I just found one at Advance and made it work, but I don't think it's cutting it. Anyone know where I can find a O.E. or as close to O.E. piece? GM dealership here says it's disconned. Now what?
Theres a replacment i got and it works great from the dealer, it was almost 9$ or somthing wich was somewhat annoying, ill go find out what P/N it was.
Quote from: grinders_18 on August 15, 2006, 11:54:26 AM
I'm thinking about replacing the T check valve I just installed...if I can find a O.E. replacement. I just found one at Advance and made it work, but I don't think it's cutting it. Anyone know where I can find a O.E. or as close to O.E. piece? GM dealership here says it's disconned. Now what?
You can find a replacement on the "HELP!" rack at almost any parts store. The HELP! part # is 47150, it will say "two way check valve" on the package. Make sure to install it the right way. ;)
Quote from: grinders_18 on August 13, 2006, 12:34:46 PM
I'm pretty sure the lower mount is hashed, but would that cause the tranny to not shift right and have a loss of power? I'll check out salvage yards around here for injectors....What year and make/model of cars are the best injectors found in? What year Riviera?
yes
Ok, so I'll set up an appointment to get that lower mount replaced. I went to Advance Auto here in town and the two way check valve I bought, the ONLY one on their HELP! rack, has smaller sized hose fittings. They didn't carry a larger one, so maybe i'll drive the 30 miles to Mankato and check a few other stores there. Thanks for the number and insight!
Ok, so i called the shop and they said they were incredible busy today, and that they'd call me back with an estimate on getting the mount fixed. How much time is involved in replacing it and how much has anyone paid to get it fixed? I know these guys won't screw me over, but I was just curious as what everyone else paid.
I think its 1.5 or 2 hours on the labor guide. So thats 200 bucks right there (using local dealer hourly rates) plus the mount, which is 40 bucks from advanced i think, plus the 300% markup from shops, so probly 320 bucks or so.
:icon_eek:Alrighty. Thanks for the quote. God I hope we tackle this after hours lol. Don is pretty good about working with me when they close and settling for some beer.
Just wondering, how can my TGP, and others, not have this TV cable button, yet others do?
look again, its on the back side of that mounting plate pointing up. you gotta stick a screwdriver down there to push on it really hard until it clicks then goose the throttle linkage.
Ok, first, I do truely appreciate the naming of the thread. It's wholey appropriate...Second, In this link, is this what I'm supposed to be pushing? If so, it doesn't budge, no matter how much force. If not, please point it out. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e315/grinders_18/tvcable1.jpg I wish I could make the picture bigger, but there's a red arrow pointing to the part. Thanks alot!
Krenzy
Quote from: pontiac6ksteawd on August 13, 2006, 10:34:51 AM
There are only 3 things that I can think are wrong.
1) Cat Converter is clogged
2) ICM or coil is going/is bad
3) A bad fuel injector.
I am leaning to a fuel injector this time thou. But I would probly replace the ICM/Coil as well, and the fuel injectors. I replaced the ones in my TGP from a L36 Buick Rivy. And it made a diference of night and day.
I replaced my injectors used :icon_rolleyes: off ebay for $30. Remember the L36 (3800 NA) was in more than just the Buick Riveria. I got mine outta a 97 Grand Prix IIRC.
Quote from: Dark Ride on August 20, 2006, 11:13:18 PM
I replaced my injectors used :icon_rolleyes: off ebay for $30. Remember the L36 (3800 NA) was in more than just the Buick Riveria. I got mine outta a 97 Grand Prix IIRC.
I know and realize that. Thats just what I used since I got them for free.
Ok, so upon recommendation from the GM dealership, in their infinite wisdom lol, the suggested a cam sensor was toast in my car, taking care of the RUNNING bad issues. Anyone heard of this going bad? I just replaced the crank positioning sensor a few weeks ago, and the lower engine mount gets done today, hopefully taking care of my TRANNY issues. Just curious if anyone else has heard of the cam sensor's going bad, or if I should tell them to look closer?
Ummmmm....there is not a CAM sensor on the car. There is the Crank Position Sensor...but I would tell them to point out the CAM sensor to me. They may be mixing up the name of the part when they are saying what it is.
LMAO! Seriously? While I had the car on the lift the other day to look at where the motor mount was at (I wanted a visual don't ask)...he pointed out it was probably right behind a bunch of wires coming from the wire harness that ran past the bottom of the serpentine belt. Holy shit am I never going back there lol.
Well, kind of an update: I just got back from my buddy's shop...not a GM stealership, just better and more trustworthy. Well, we were changing the mount, which let me tell you was not too bad, but definately not that easy...and when we set the car back down, we found out that one of the guys that was working earlier (BIG ROUND FAT GUY), was doing something on the topend of the car, think he was the one changing the coolant....welp, somehow he ended up pressing the cooling fan against the radiator and...yeah....you prolly guessed it....not only did I get a new mount, but also a new radiator lmao! I shouldn't be happy, especially since I'm driving a sable GS as the loaner car till tomorrow when I get her back...but hey, 24 valve DOHC...quick little thing :icon_biggrin:
The car, when I took her out after the mount was installed, but before we found the outpour of coolant, ran 80% better, but there's still a kick in the tranny. The car right now runs bad. Think I'm going to update everything: plugs, wires, coils (yes I know everyone suggested this before)...I had put in those Bosch quadruple platinum shit plugs, yeah they're gone. The wires were (at one point...God knows when) performance, but they are old and starting to show their age severly...and Ryan suggested doing the coils at the same point. He wasn't too familiar with the car so he couldn't tell me where this CAM sensor is lol. Quick question: How do you reset the timing on these cars? That's when the dealer worker guy told me they don't adjust the timing like they used to cuz this car has the CAM sensor, and it resets it automatically when you put the new sensor in. Everyone around here told me they're crooked people there, but I hadn't experienced it till now. The car, as I stated, runs bad. It doesn't keep an idle, it chugs, and for some wierd reason I'm getting 40+MPG...and I'm not going by that damn computer. Just curious what causes a bad idle and running bad. Is this caused wholely by the plugs, wires, and coils? I'm thinking about getting the injectors cleaned out too, but I'm not going to if it's not necessary...spendy bill already lol.
Anything else to watch for? Thanks for being patient and helping me out here everyone. Seriously!
The timing is hard set in the chip. There is no resetting of the timing. You can reset the Idle by pulling the ECM fuse and doing a relearn...but if I was you I would stay as far away from that shop as possible! WOW! :icon_eek:
Also make sure they buy you a BRAND NEW Blackstone radiator. It is specific to the Turbo Grand Prix and the last I saw they were around $1200 for a new one. DO NOT ALLOW THEM TO PUT A REPLACEMENT RADIATOR IN YOUR CAR!! Your motor will for certian shit the bed!
A replacement that ISN'T a blackstone...what will happen to my car? Please explain before I pick it up today :icon_eek:
All I know for sure is that they ordered a new radiator from Advance Auto for my Turbo 3.1 and it was coming in today. Will there be a problem if it isn't a Blackstone?? Won't a replacement for my turbo 3.1 be identical? I mean, one would assume so since thy looked up the turbo 3.1 89 grand prix. Please let me know if I should be in deep shit.
The radiator for the Turbo Grand Prix is a special item specific to the turbo cars. It is narrower and thicker than the non-turbo radiator. Reason being is the intercooler sits next to the radiator so it has to be narrower. Then you have to thicken the radiator for the fact that it is narrower then you have less cooling area. Also it is thicker because the turbo engine will put out more heat under load than a normally aspirated car.
If you look on Advanced or any other parts store webpage they have the exact same radiator part number 432230, CU658, or 9207 for Advanced Auto between the McLaren and SE model Grand Prix.
Correct me if I am wrong anyone because I have not personally tried to swap these radiators... :icon_cool:
All right thanks alot Kenny! I just called them and they had installed it. I asked if they made sure it was the turbo 3.1 specific and they said yeah. Let you know more later!
Does anyone have a part number on the Blackstone radiator? Or any other comparable radiators...the bad is getting worse and I NEED a part number cause everyone they are calling tells them they don't exist...oh btw, the one the put in (sure they meant were putting in), wasn't right lol go figure!
all the info i have on it is here
Manufacture, Blackstone out of Canada, sub-contracted to ASC for the TGP setup.
ASC part number: V29X858230XXX
Blackstone part number 1002609
Other Blackstone (?) number 90031601
Core dimensions:
21 1/4 ? width
15 1/4" height
2 1/4" thickness
37 rows
9 fins per inch
3 core (NA GP has single core)
Thanks a Million, Dave!...deeply appreciated!
Hope you are able to get one or work something out.....
I had mine re-cored with a 4 core which was 3/4 of an inch thicker by a local rad shop here in town.
Took some convincing to make them understand why i needed a rad of that scale and capacity but when i brought it in they saw why.
The shop owner said the turbocharged FORD T-Birds of the late to early 90's i believe had a similar rad and owners a similar problem getting replacements.
anyway keep us posted
Well, I took Dave's info to the shop, and they called up a stealership and ordered one...it's sposed to be here in 6 days I think he said. The price was like $300-ish. Not bad considering when they took the old one out, there was definate radiator rot. Not sure what it actually was, but it was pretty much gonna be trash within the next few months. So thanks to whoever pressed the fan into the radiator lol. Saved me ALOT of time and trouble. But like I said, within a week it should be here. Thanks you guys for the great info; it really helped me out! I'll keep you posted more when I get more!
300ish? That isnt the right rad either. Thats going to be a standard rad. The stealerships around me cant even order it anymore. I would take your old rad and get it recored. Will cost about 150-400. Depending on the shop.
No that is the replacement with the part number off the one that we pulled out...so it's a direct replacement.
I am not trying to be an ass when I say this. But i did the same thing, and I, or well the dealership, ended up with a standard rad for a 3.1. Afterall, I am not going to take delivery of a part that isnt the right one.
True. I hope that the right one comes...like I said we gave them the number off the old one, and they looked it up and said it would be coming in less than a week.
The OE Blackstone can be found from time to time on Ebay, for a pretty penny. Those radiators were well over a grand in the early 90's, the are DISCO now, so you may end up having to have yours re-cored if they didn't get you the right one, but please by all means, if they have found you a correct replacement that is aftermarket, post the number here and in the COMMON PART NUMBERS thread, to help anyone else looking for a replacement.
Good luck!
Well........here's how things are shaping up. They ordered the radiator and over a week later it came in. Drumroll.....WRONG ONE! Not really surprised, just disappointed. But I told him to just send it out and get it recored, and the only person nearby that recores them is completely unreliable and the shop he runs brings in like $20 a month because of it lol. So we're exploring other places, closer to the Twin City area that may recore it.
As for my Camaro, which had been suffering from a loss of power and steadiness, I had the plugs and wires changed today and it cured everything. When we replaced the wires, we did them one at a time, so that we couldn't mess it up, and it turns out that somehow two wires were crossed...not sure how that happened since they haven't been changed in over two years, it ran great before this, and I have the only key to the car, which rules out tampering. Oh well, it runs great now :icon_biggrin: Hopefully the new wires will help the TGP when we get that damn radiator.
More when I have more.
Krenzy
I ordered a replacement radiator from two different places. I got the long ones that fit the non-turbo. :icon_rolleyes:Went to another radiator shop and he said he couldn't get the radiator but he could get a core and save me a bunch. $250 later I had a new core and he shortened it 3/16 of an inch for me so it would clear the upper hose better. He was the only one that recognized that this was a special radiator. (an old racer about my age only dirt track, but he new his shit) Took it out and took it to him and 2 days later I had a new radiator. It's the exact same core that was in there. My point is that the cores are out there and it's far cheaper to have it re-cored than to try and purchase a new one.
It would be cheaper for you guys to send your rad to him and ship it back to you than screwing with people that don't know what there doing. And there are a bunch out there. The first two shops didn't even offer to re-core it. Go figure. :laugh:
Jud
Any chance you can get me a phone number, name, email, or anything about this guy? I'm not paying for it, the shop is since they broke it....so I'm not concerned with money :icon_biggrin:
I pulled a spare rad out of a tgp not too long ago. dont know how much shipping would be or nothin but I could get rid of it I guess if someone needs it.
Quote from: grinders_18 on September 22, 2006, 04:38:54 AM
Any chance you can get me a phone number, name, email, or anything about this guy? I'm not paying for it, the shop is since they broke it....so I'm not concerned with money :icon_biggrin:
Took me awhile to find the tag.
Sizemore Radiator
21324 US Hyw 59
New Caney, TX 77357
281-354-7395
Invoice # 1549 dated 1/01/05
$250.00 plus $19.00 tax
I know he gets shipments in but don't know if he ships. Give him a call. If you can ship both ways through him you can avoid the tax. If he won't ship let me know and I can help out. You could ship to him and I could pick it up and ship to you. I think you would have to pay the tax though.
He isn't far and UPS is around the corner. Wouldn't mind talking to him again we did a couple of hour of bench racing last time I saw him. :icon_biggrin:
This goes for anybody that wants an exact recore. Copper and brass construction I think. It's not alum.
Jud
Thanks Jud! I appreciate the info. I'll pass both this, and GansTGP's offer, along to the shop, and see which way they lean. Deeply appreciated, both of you! I'll be in touch!
Krenzy
Alrighty. Update time!
In the past few months, I'll make a quick recap of what's been done.
- Lower Enigne Mount
- Spark Plugs
- Spark Plug Wires
- CPS
- T-Check Valve
- Radiator replaced with a like one from a parts TGP
- Fuel Filter
- Transmission Flush (T-Tech)
- Cat Delete
- New Exhuast
- Kenny Crossover
- Invasion1 Chip
- Alternator
- 2 or 3 new O2 Sensors
- Idle Air Control Unit
- Numerous Bottles Of Excedrin
And still....not running right. Don't get me wrong, every little bit helps. The Crossover fixed my exhaust from sounding like a tractor, the chip gave me the added boost of power, even in it's loss you can tell there's more power, the sensors, the wires...it all helps. But none of it corrected the problem, whatever it is. I plan on having the fuel injectors blown out next Friday when I actually have more money; the coils we're looked at and it ewas determined that they are in good shape. I haven't had the ICM looked at because it just costs alot of money and I'm lacking so much of it. This car is my dream car, literally, and she's worth it, but it's draining me. Financially and physically.
So everyone is up to date on what is going on with the car: It still misses a bit, and whenever I am going from a dead stop it is slow picking up speed; before the problems it would roach the tires instantly. The tranny is slightly softer in the kicking, but it still kicks into gear sometimes, unless I help it shift. Although it does shift smooth occasionally which is an improvement from before. The car sat at the shop for a month while we tried to find a radiator after the old one was smashed. Two days ago, when I got her back, she had a dead battery and needed to be jumped; after it was jumped, every time I stopped for a light it killed. Put it in neutral and it's fine, but otherwise it needed to be restarted. It seems to be over that now, I think, but can't be sure since I haven't driven much in the past 2 days. Kinda acts like it may kill when I slow to a stop, but hasn't since, yet. Are there any things I should have checked that I'm missing? I truely appreciate all the help this board has given me, and I'm sorry I keep asking for more; I figure if I change this and that, maybe it's something else and you guys might have a better clue than I. Thanks again and comments are more than welcome.
Krenzy
Hey Grinders, my when I first got my TGP, it would stall a lot. (My TGP is totally stock, right down to the cracked crossover) I charged the battery overnight one night, and it never stalls now. (Stock TGP once again.) I also Seafoamed it and now it will roast the tires VERY easily. I'd try those two things, they worked for me. ;) (until I get a crossover & chip anyway.)
I'm definately going to look into the new battery. When I was just coming home from work here at 6 am I had another fricked up thing. Whenver I floor it, the lights not only dim, they flicker, the headlights and interior lights. Argh!
Where did you Seafoam when you did Seafoam it?
Blowing out your injectors, if they are bad, is not going to help you I dont think. These injectors had a issue with the internal windings. And once one goes bad, it takes out all 3 of them on that bank. My suggestion of replacing the injectors with some L36's is still where I think you need to go. I had so many issues with my car, it finnally got to the point where the car wouldnt start, and I had to be towed home. I OHMed out the injectors, and sure enuf, 1 on the front bank, and 1 on the back bank were bad. Went to a junk yard, found a low mileage L36 GENII and snagged the injectors. Installed them, and it run so perfect I was amazed. Had a freind that was able to get me some brand new L36 injectors, and I installed them. Now my only problem is that since I dont drive the car much, that it just sits collecting dust. And when I took it to the track 2 weeks ago, it fouled out my plugs. So a MAJOR tune up is in order now.
Good idea....I'll call around the yards here and see what they have for injectors. Is it possible my turbo itself is going? Someone who really hadn't had too much experience with turbos was listening to my car and he said this noise we were hearing was coming from the turbo area, and he was right...atleast it sounded like it was from there, coulda been under the plenum, but more than likely not.
Quote from: grinders_18 on October 13, 2006, 05:10:58 AM
I'm definately going to look into the new battery. When I was just coming home from work here at 6 am I had another fricked up thing. Whenver I floor it, the lights not only dim, they flicker, the headlights and interior lights. Argh!
Where did you Seafoam when you did Seafoam it?
When I Seafoamed mine, I took off the black pipe that goes from the top of the intercooler to the throttle body. Then I put 2 cans of seafoam into an empty windex bottle and sprayed it into the throttle body while moving the throttle arm on the throttle body, so it wouldn't stall.(wear a glove, it will get hot!) :icon_eek: I just sprayed most of the bottle into the throttle body, once the bottle was getting close to empty, I closed the throttle a little bit (NOT ALL THE WAY) and sprayed a bunch of seafoam in there until it stalled. Once it stalled, I opened the butterfly and sprayed all of the remaining seafoam into the throttle body. Then, I let it sit for about half an hour. Don't forget to put the pipe back on. ;) After a half an hour, I started it up and did some speed runs. From every corner, I floored it until I got it up to about 80MPH, do this on about a 10 mile drive(BTW shift it into drive and don't use overdrive, the higher rpms will help clean it out more and will help to suck the seafoam through the system). When you stop, the smoke from the Seafoam should be gone. Mine idled MUCH BETTER and will now light up the tires at will because of the seafoam. Good luck, hopefully this helps solve your drivability problems. ;) Charge your battery also, it WILL help!!
right on, so you are making progress!
If you can get it running good in under 3 years you are doing good!
I had problems for years and it ran like crap. now that I know how to do it, it takes me like 6 months of owning it, and the car runs perfect. thats taking my time and theres no guess work anymore. I automatically know what I am going to need and where to get it.
did you ever do a vac spider? hows the IC/tb couplings? still original?
I never quite understood the concept of a vacuum spider...share? The couplings are still original...are there knoen problems with these also?
:laugh:
thats what I call em.
they look like a big scary spider when you take it out of the box... you know, the vac harness you buy from GM. :icon_confused:
and the blue silicone couplings are WAY less prone to leaks I've found.
Getting paid today so more money to fix her up.....but something I've just realized that has been going on for a bit now...the tranny seems to select what gear to go into...like if it should be in second it's in third and taking forever to get to speed....don't know why this is, or if this is even it at all, but it seems like it. I'll be going 10 miles going up to 30 mph, and it just keep in the high gear and tries to slowly bring me to speed until I let off the gas and hit it again. WTF?
Sounds like your TV cable is out of adjustment.
Nick your SIG pic is TO BIG!!!!!!!!
sorry I'm testing it. Didn't realize it was that big :icon_redface:
lol
no prob just razzin ya
lol Thats okay ;)
Ok well then I need a bit of help. I've seen some pictures of the "button" I'm sposed to push...but mine doesn't have it....can anyone provide a better picture, or illustration, to show me if I'm thinking of the wrong button?
Ok, so I spent much time talking with TGP Nick, and he sent me some other links about the TV cable...wow was I close but so far away...the button I was looking for wasn't on the side that the throttle is on, but on the reverse side lol...if anyone has tried to explain this to me I'm very sorry, but simple minds like mine thrive on simple answers lol. I adjusted the cable, took her out, and wow does she shift nice!!!!!!! Takes care of like 40 -60 percent of the things I wanted to have fixed. I'm going to have my injectors blown out this weekend and see what kind of difference that makes! Thanks a million Nick and everyone!!! Don't worry, I'll be back with future problems and updates, but seriously thank you!
Hey no problem, man! ;)
so what exactly did u do when u pressed the button, just like opened the throttle all the way then closed then let go of the button or what?? Did u have the problem with it going into gear really hard, like jolting into gear from park/nurtral to a drive gear? or did you have that issue? did it solve it?
When I pressed the button, I pushed that cable sheeth forward, and then I didn't need to hold the button anymore...I opened the throttle till it clicked three times, then it went back to the locked position. It kinda went into gear from park hard, but moreso from park into reverse...haven't tried reverse yet. Maybe tonight when I get back from round 2 with the Saleen lol.
Would anyone here be able to tell me how to go about cleaning out an EGR? I've gotten three suggestions that the EGR may be clogged..and I figured since cleaning it usually is free, it's something I can do tonight :icon_biggrin: So can anyone tell me how to do this, and what to use? Thanks!
I'm IMing you right now.
you gotta use chemical gloves, but I got my whole TB surgically clean with carb cleaner and steel wool. some say that there is a finish on the tb, I dont think so though. I just took off the vac housing and stuffed in the wool, spun it around if you will, and rinsed it with carb cleaner.
Well, here's my "progress" lol...I keep running into situations. I got the EGR unbolted from the plenum last night, but couldn't get the two bolts that attach the tube to the EGR off...so I wiggled that bastard around for close to two hours before it came out. I held a religious ceremony under the hood of my car lol. I don't think a priest uses the word "God" more times in an hour than I did! But anyways, I get the whole thing out together, managed to snap the vacuum tube from the vacuum box thing on top of the plenum, the one that attached to the EGR...yay! So by this point I'm just exstatic lol, and I put the EGR in a bench vise, and after a lot of elbow grease, I got the tube apart. Then it hit me. I had Invasion1 burn me a custom chip; I also asked for it to be EGR deleted. Dammit! Lol so my troubles and vocabulary came from me doing work that had no reason to be done. I was slightly pissed, but you know what? I figured for shits and giggles I'd clean that tube out anyways lol. Hey, if it was already pointless, why not finish it off right? I then went to bed.
Now I'm trying to figure out the best way to plug the EGR line on the crossover, and the plenum.
Check this thread out. It shows a way to plug your hole. http://www.tgpforums.com/index.php?topic=3598.msg23623;boardseen#new
I personally want to keep my egr-
To me, I'd love to keep all the stock equipment, but after last night, that bastard will never see the back side of a plenum again lol.
why, you wiggled the egr until the tube cracked, huh?
the vacuum tube the comes out of the four plug on the top of the plenum just snapped when I moved it lol...the only one I found that's that brittle. I'm deleting the EGR because of how much of a pain in the ass it was to get it out, and now that I realize I don't need it, I figure what's the point of another headache?
Dont know where you live, but you will need that for emissions. If not, HAVE FUN!!!
I live in Minnesota, i.e., Screw The Environment Because Of All The Snow It Gives Us...lol. Minnesota has no emissions testing.
Yeah MN says "Screw Emissions" lol. I live in MN too and I dont have a cat on my TGP. Was like that when I bought it.
LOL i took the cat off too...i tell you what though, no cat and no mufflers makes it sound like a Chevelle 396 just pulled up
Ok, before she gets put away for the winter, I want to address the tranny issue, or what I believe is the tranny. When I go from a dead stop, it should have lots of power, even squeal the rubber. Nope. It's slow, and a slow accel in first, then it hangs onto the high rpms before shifting into second, sometimes I manually shift it because Im afraid that it holding onto the high rpms will hurt it or worse. In second, it picks up speed, and third and fourth are fast...now, my rack is bad and the car rattles like spray paint in Brooklyn, so I don't push it much past 60. Whenever I maintain the normal speed limits, anywhere between 30 and 45, and then accelerate, it slams into the next gear, whether it's third, I don't quite know, but I believe so. Occasionally, but very rarely, it will shift nicely. Now I just had a tranny filter change and the complete T-Tech flush, brand new lower and upper motor mounts, many new parts listed on the other page.
Just so everyone is aware, as if you weren't by now lol, there are two major problems with my TGP: the engine miss, and the now mentioned tranny issue. I have the check valve on, correctly. I was recommended by an Advance Auto person today that it could be a transmission solenoid, or a torque converter, or the modulator, or....lol I think they just want money, but I'd appreciate recommendations if there are any, or anyone wh has a similar problem, or had, please let me know so I'm not alone lol. Thanks guys!
I swear man, you drop in some L36 injectors, and both your problems will be solved. Fixed both on my TGP when i replaced mine.
Ok, the thing is I just had the injectors blown out. Pulsed or whatever they call it. Shouldn't that have done it?
Grinders , I'm considered a newbie but actually I've own my car for 4 years and my car has always had this problem and have been in and out of transmission shop, and only one, has given me the best information yet. He said we have a sticking valve in our valve body which cost me $ 2500 to get unstuck the last time, now its doing it again :icon_evil:. I bought a VCR tape from a company that has step by step proceedure on how to repair our transmissions, and during the part about the valve body, it says #1 rule don't try to attempt removal of vavles. So whats this guy do , he takes a rubber mallet and looses the valve. :icon_neutral: But soon I won't have this to worry about , I have my 5-speed on stand. Hope you do
I answered this question earlier, So I will quote...
Quote from: grinders_18 on October 27, 2006, 12:33:35 PM
Ok, the thing is I just had the injectors blown out. Pulsed or whatever they call it. Shouldn't that have done it?
Quote from: pontiac6ksteawd on October 13, 2006, 07:40:19 AM
Blowing out your injectors, if they are bad, is not going to help you I dont think. These injectors had a issue with the internal windings. And once one goes bad, it takes out all 3 of them on that bank. My suggestion of replacing the injectors with some L36's is still where I think you need to go. I had so many issues with my car, it finnally got to the point where the car wouldnt start, and I had to be towed home. I OHMed out the injectors, and sure enuf, 1 on the front bank, and 1 on the back bank were bad. Went to a junk yard, found a low mileage L36 GENII and snagged the injectors. Installed them, and it run so perfect I was amazed. Had a freind that was able to get me some brand new L36 injectors, and I installed them. Now my only problem is that since I dont drive the car much, that it just sits collecting dust. And when I took it to the track 2 weeks ago, it fouled out my plugs. So a MAJOR tune up is in order now.
Quote from: jimmy on October 27, 2006, 08:23:54 PM
Grinders , I'm considered a newbie but actually I've own my car for 4 years and my car has always had this problem and have been in and out of transmission shop, and only one, has given me the best information yet. He said we have a sticking valve in our valve body which cost me $ 2500 to get unstuck the last time, now its doing it again :icon_evil:. I bought a VCR tape from a company that has step by step proceedure on how to repair our transmissions, and during the part about the valve body, it says #1 rule don't try to attempt removal of vavles. So whats this guy do , he takes a rubber mallet and looses the valve. :icon_neutral: But soon I won't have this to worry about , I have my 5-speed on stand. Hope you do
hahahaha. sounds like you up shit creek.
now now we all start somewhere and i thought i was up shit creek few times when i did my 5-speed swap....
no need for discouraging comments
my bad. :icon_neutral:
Ok, the thread is back, but good news, of sorts. The good news is there are no new problems, nor am I here to rant LOL...just wanted to keep you guys up-to-date...I've taken pontiac6ksteawd and countless others' advice, and I bought new fuel injectors. They will be here Thursday at the latest. More info and the verdict when they arrive!
Well, it didn't work...just like all the other repairs, it helped out, but not with the problem at hand. I don't know what to do. Running out of ideas...anyone?
Sorry to hear that, man. :icon_frown:
Thanks man...it'll be ok...the guys at the shop are stumped too. They actually gave me the name and number of an "electrical Rain Man" lol...they figure maybe he can figure it out. Another thought was maybe it's the computer gone to hell? Any input on that?
I'd check spark plug wires very carefully. I had one short through the insulation to a bolt or stud on an inboard alternator bracket. The wire rested directly on that and the hole was only in the bottom. Rough idle resulted and under a load, it was like having a 1958 WV. But, a lot of people might think it was running fine.
Also, the spark coils are critiical and you need all three for smooth operation. Failed coil(s) causes engine to act somewhat like having a bad EGR, if you've ever had one of those. My bad EGR had actually burned through some part. Don't recall exactly what burned through. Little pipe or fitting, I think. And coils can get weaker before they burn out.
Low octane can cause problems if chip is set for 100 octane, although normal cruising seemed unaffected. I went from Chicago to Florida and wanted to get 100 octane at each fill-up. That lasted for one fill-up, in Indianapolis. Then Atlanta, out near the speedway, had some 100-octane. BTW, everybody driving between Atlanta and Macon were driving on freshly mud-jacked and perfectly smooth highways that day and all were doing 80-90 mph, bumper-to-bumper. Almost every car had some NASCAR driver's number pasted on their vehicle. It was a blast and something I'd not experienced before.
Two stations in Chicagoland (that I know of) have unleaded 100-octane racing fuel. When unleaded 93-octane cost $2.29, 100-octane cost about $3.29. When 93-octane cost $3.29, 100-octane cost $3.49. It is better than the lower octane fuels in all respects except cost, and the fact that your car won't smell stock at the next stoplight. : )
Race gas smells GOOD! Especially VP race fuel. /End Hijack :laugh:
Quote from: Larry M on December 08, 2006, 08:26:16 PM
Low octane can cause problems if chip is set for 100 octane, although normal cruising seemed unaffected.
Why?
Well, knock sensors don't actuallly predict anything. I believe they only act on detonation occurring already. Correct me if I am wrong. I am also of impression that unleaded 87 octane is:
? more likely to detonate prematurely
and
? when it does, it's effects will be more rapid, and more violent and more destructive
? especially with cars without EGR's (I don't believe aftermarket chips usually dial in loss of cooling effect from EGR. Do they?)
I'd be happy to learn more from the experts here. I was a mechanic LONG AGO but am not well-qualified on modern computer technological cars. : )
100-octane unleaded racing fuel is my best answer to the problems. Also, I don't like additives like Octane Boost, which once softened some paint and left track below gas cap door.
Here's a question, not to interupt Larry, but what are symptoms of a failing/failed ECM (the car's computer), and does it need to be out of a TGP specific vehicle for a new one?
A zillion cars used our computer. the memcal is the only difference.
Symptoms, runing shitty speedo of by a mile or even at aero to name a couple. Swap with a friend before you buy one.
Jud
1227727
16197128
16198260
Description: 1227727 in underhood case
Application: 1990-92 2.5 L4 TBI ?R? LR8 (?W? body)
1988-89 2.8 V6 PFI ?W? LB6 (?W? body)
1989-93 3.1 V6 PFI ?T? LH0 (?W? body)
1989-90 3.1 V6 PFI turbo ?V? LG5
1990-91 5.7 V8 TPI ?8? L98 (?Y? body)
MEMCAL IDs: ?R?: APTW, ?
?W?: AMAS, APWM, ATRA, ?
?T?: ARCX, ARZW, ATSN, ATSP, AUMY, ?
?V?: ASAN, ASMF, ATMJ, ATMK, AUAD, AUAF, AUFR, AZRC
?8?: ANHT, ARFP, ?
EPROM type: 27C128 or 27C256
Alright thanks a million! I'm gonna go to a JY and find a cheap one.
Well I guess I was wrong, looks like two zillion +. :laugh:
Jud
God I tell you when this gets figured out it should become a sticky as what you sohuld look for and the symptoms lol...J/K but anyways, I just put a brand new ECM in.....drumroll ran silent, people yelled it along with me: "Nothing". Well, I've had as much fun with her as I'm going to have, and the shop that works on my car can't figure it out, so I've called in the real professional: The Rainman. lol, this guy is supposed to be an electrical wizard. He's going to look at it today and if he needs to, tomorrow, and let me know whats up.
Good luck! :thumb:
Well, this is both sweet and sad. I've learned so much with your guys' help, but the problems I was having with the power loss and tranny kicking, those problems have been fixed. It ended up being the ICM and coils, which are the only thing I hadn't replaced; and yeah I know that was mentioned suggestion as to what was wrong with it, but I just never got those changed. But, on the other hand, the car has had a complete tune up and then some! Lol this thing is faster than before. More details tomorrow! Thanks a million for everything guys!
TGP Forums Biggest Thread
Right on Krenz ;)
GREAT to hear! :thumb:
Quote from: TGP Nick on December 14, 2006, 08:55:32 PM
GREAT to hear! :thumb:
Not far behind Nick with the Brakes thread
Quote from: Invasion1 on December 14, 2006, 09:08:34 PM
Quote from: TGP Nick on December 14, 2006, 08:55:32 PM
GREAT to hear! :thumb:
Not far behind Nick with the Brakes thread
Can you say TGP Nick rolling TGP Learning Thread? lol :bonk:
Don't worry, we'll get the brakes fixed, Nick! :icon_wink: Like I said, if you need help, I can come up...although I have zero clue as to what I'd be doing.
As for my TGP, that thing is fast...I'm going to post a list of everything that was done in the Tune-up from Heaven lol.
- Brand new crossover from Kenny at KAZ Motorsports (TGPilot)...this thing is great![/li]
- Custom performance chip made by Dave (Invasion1)...holy hell does she breathe and fly!!
- Plugs, Bosch Platinum 4's...they're working great, although I'm sure standard AC Delco's would've done- New wires
- New coils (one was dead, another going)
- New ICM (was going out too)
- Idle Air Control
- New Ford Yellow Top C302 Injectors
- Crank Positioning Sensor
- Removed EGR as it's disabled anyways (also plugged the vac tube that was leaking)
- Removed Cat (was considered for the problem, found out it wasn't, but it sounds damn good :icon_biggrin:)
- Replaced
upper and lower Motor Mounts
- O2 Sensor
- Replaced Tranny T-Check Valve
- New Radiator (stemmed from the shop puncturing the old one while replacing the lower motor mount)
- Fuel Filter
- Transmission T-Tech Flush
- BRAND NEW ECM
- And the alternator
ADDED 2-18-07- Brand new steering rack
- Brand new transmission lines to and from radiator and aftermarket tranny cooler
- Brand new FFP upper motor mounts POLISHED w/ polyurethane bushings
- Brand new Champion Iridium spark plugs...Bosch's were fine, but I wanted different
I'm considering going back to school to be a mechanic after all this for a frickin failed coiL! LOL. The next thing to replace is the steering rack, which includes upper and lower tie rods changed, alignment, parts and labor, $696...coming soon! lol. Then get the hood repainted and I'm set!
I truely appreciate all the help you guys have given me. Each suggestion was a great learning step for me, albeit in the end expensive, but it all helped my car run great now! I learned where half the stuff on my engine is, and it'll definately help me in the future. Truely appreciated, so if anyone ever needs help and I can help, I'm more than willing to do what I can. I guess I'll have to start a new thread :icon_cry: Sad day for me because this has become my hangout...lol I haven't been this sad since the last episode of FRIENDS lmao! Hopefully someone who has a problem similar to mine will look at this thread and take what they can get from it...so much good advice! And if it sounds like I'm packing up and leaving I'M NOT!!!! Lol. Thanks guys.
UPDATED 2-18-07
Quote from: grinders_18 on December 15, 2006, 03:32:45 PM
Don't worry, we'll get the brakes fixed, Nick! :icon_wink: Like I said, if you need help, I can come up...although I have zero clue as to what I'd be doing.
As for my TGP, that thing is fast...I'm going to post a list of everything that was done in the Tune-up from Heaven lol.
- Brand new crossover from Kenny at KAZ Motorsports (TGPilot)...this thing is great![/li][/list]
- Custom performance chip made by Dave (Invasion1)...holy hell does she breathe and fly!!
- Plugs, Bosch Platinum 4's...they're working great, although I'm sure standard AC Delco's would've done
- New wires
- New coils (one was dead, another going)
- New ICM (was going out too)
- Idle Air Control
- New Ford Yellow Top C302 Injectors
- Crank Positioning Sensor
- Removed EGR as it's disabled anyways (also plugged the vac tube that was leaking)
- Removed Cat (was considered for the problem, found out it wasn't, but it sounds damn good :icon_biggrin:)
- Replaced upper and lower Motor Mounts
- O2 Sensor
- Replaced Tranny T-Check Valve
- New Radiator (stemmed from the shop puncturing the old one while replacing the lower motor mount)
- Fuel Filter
- Transmission T-Tech Flush
- BRAND NEW ECM
- And the alternator
Hmm... looks like my new checklist! :laugh:
hi everyone, i have read the entire thread and its been very useful, but have a question.
im having some of the same problems as grinders was, and im going to adjust the tv cable to start with... but i cant exactly find it. i think i might have found it, heard a 2 ratcheting clicks when i did what you guys said... is that what its supposed to do? i cant really see it on my car but i followed the cable back and found "the thing" i think. im going to replace the check valve later today, and then coils are next lol. i just did the front 3 plugs and wires which needed changing... its too cold to do the back now... its about 10 degrees outside.
thank you
Hey man. I;m glad this thread can be used to help someone. Every problem you can have with a car has occured with mine, but it runs great now so it's proof that time and patience pay off!
The button you need to push to release the TV cable is cirlcled in red on this pic:
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e315/grinders_18/TVCABLE.jpg)
Once you release that, you can "ratchet" the cable tight again by using the throttle...um ratchet might not be the best word, but it works. Here's a link if you get stuck again: http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php/topic,49840.0.html What this does is tighten the cable from your throttle to the tranny...
The rear plugs are easy enough to get at if you have small hands, simply by removing the alternator. If you have bigger hands, leaning the engine forward will make it much easier for you.
If you need anymore help, just ask! BTW, if you cinsider using Bosch plugs, you may want to reconsider; I am replacing them. They aren't bad, but running Bosch Platinums wasn't my smartest idea.
When doing the rear plugs, I take off the alternator, and bracket for the alternator. Its only 4 bolts on the side, I think they are all 15's, and you can take the thing out as a assembly. It gives you so much room..
Thanks! the pics and extra info were very helpful... helped a little bit but wasnt the problem... lol. I think my issue has more to do with your other tranny thread... i just dont have the whining noise... just revs up and doesnt want to shift when i get on it.
Quote from: zero32700 on February 13, 2007, 03:57:42 PM
... just revs up and doesnt want to shift when i get on it.
That is your TV cable- it is still too loose. It should be shifting at about 5,400- 5,600 RPM's. (that is using a different gauge, the stock gauges are notoriously inaccurate.)
If you can't get it to shift early enough, it could be time for a new TV cable.
How does it shift when just cruising around.About quarter throttle and under 3500rpms..Adam
when im real gentle it shifts fine, like starting from a stop light... when im crusing it will kind of hesitate... hard to explain. its acts like it wants to shift... and will after a few seconds unless i let off the gas and then it will shift. if i mat it it will just climb and not shift until i let up... all the way then it still takes a few secs.
should the tv cable be real snugg/ stiff cause it was super loose. i could pull the the end of it prob 1/4 or 1/8 of an inch (something like that... felt like alot of play on something like that) before it felt like tension.
It should be tight- if it is loose, the cable will do nothing.
ok, will tighten it up tommorow and update you!
thanks... you guys are a lot of help
The detent cable is used for downshifting and upshifting in low vacuum situations like three qurater to wide open throttle.On the front of the transmission under the turbo is a modulator valve.That controls upshifts and downshifts by vacuum and it can be adjusted.I would check the metal line that comes from the plenum and follow it to the valve.Make sure it has not been chafing on anything and developed a leak.Also check the rubber lines and make sure they are not split or cracked.Most likely the modulator valve will not need to be adjusted but I've seen it a few times.Hope this helps :icon_biggrin: Adam
I tell you what: mine was doing the same crap until I did two things: Tightened the TV cable and changed my Coils. Trust me, they are spendy, but they are needed and worth it. This is exactly what mine was doing, along with a bunch of other crap. BTW I solved my tranny problem: The aftermarket tranny cooler line slipped off and spewed fluid everywhere...again. lol. it was just the other line this time...Put some Wynn's tranny solution in and after a while it sounded great again.
Awesome u got the tranny workin right Krenz! Maybe you should get some new clamps for the tranny cooler. :icon_lol:
Oh yah! :icon_cool: It was a pain to figure out where it was leaking from...cuz we had two tranny lines going from the trans to the radiator, and then two additional lines going from there to the little cooler. After washing away all the fluid and water and snow and all, we found it. Replaced the tranny lines and put new couplings on, and new clamps. Some tranny fluid and some Wynn's and she ran great again!
Awesome- what's wynn's? Never heard of it. If it is a tranny additive like Lucas, I suggest you get it outta there ASAP- drain the tranny fluid out, replace filter and put new fluid in, NO additives- additives kill trannies.
Yes it's an additive, however it's not your normal additive. I can't remember exactly how it works, all I know is my dad's Jeep had a tranny tht was acting up bad a few years back...after adding this it hasn't reoccured once.
Dusting off this old topic. I just found out one of my coolant lines either to or from the turbo is leaking, and probably leaking as the fitting on the turbo. It's the line closest to the engine, or, when looking at the engine from head on, it's the left line. Not sure if it's the return or feed line, but it's wet, and leaking...so...What stops this? LOL.
O rings? There were none with the turbo, and none removed from the turbo. I used plumbers tape on the fittings when I screwed them into the new turbo this spring. They didn't start leaking until a month or so ago, and we just today figured out that it was a little farther up the line than where we thought it was. Any suggestions?
Oh no! The thread returns! :laugh: jk
I know I said this before, but I'll put it in writing. When I removed my turbo last winter, both my coolant lines leaked, as well as my oil return spigot. I took and cleaned up the surfaces where the lines mount to the brass spigots and where the spigots screw into the turbo. I poly taped where the spigots screw into the turbo, then took o-rings and placed them where the coolant lines screw into the brass spigots, finally I poly taped the coolant lines themselves, and tightened them all together. You may want to tighten them more later, as the orings will settle a tiny bit and may leak.. that is how I got my coolant and oil lines leak free.
Hope this helps!
Well, not to worry lol. Turns out that the fitting somehow came loose on the turbo. They're going to tighten her back up and check the fluids, then it's good to go!
Alright, so I fixed a few more problems, and I figured that this thread CANNOT die!
The hard shifting/bucking problems were due to a bad transmission vaccum modulator valve and a lower transmission mount having gone out. Both fixed and the car shifts great!
I also replaced the alternator and it fixed my flickering/dimming lights problem.
Adding those 3 items to my list of things to buy..
The tranny mount took the shop little over an hour to do with 2 people working on it. The modulator valve would be easy to do, providing it isn't -20 outside! LOL. Alternator? Piece of cake!
I've had that thing in and out so many times now it isn't funny...mainly to gain access to the rear plugs. Only recently did I learn you can bring the idler pulley up with a ratchet! LOL
Quote from: grinders_18 on February 03, 2008, 06:16:42 PM
The tranny mount took the shop little over an hour to do with 2 people working on it. The modulator valve would be easy to do, providing it isn't -20 outside! LOL. Alternator? Piece of cake!
I've had that thing in and out so many times now it isn't funny...mainly to gain access to the rear plugs. Only recently did I learn you can bring the idler pulley up with a ratchet! LOL
Those guys must have been in each other's way to take an hour for a transaxle mount change on one of these cars. :laugh:
Why's that? You think it should have been easier or harder? The shop book says 3 hours....
Quote from: grinders_18 on February 04, 2008, 04:37:14 AM
Why's that? You think it should have been easier or harder? The shop book says 3 hours....
Easier. If you have everything you need handy, you can swap them out quicker than that. Book time doesn't necessarily reflect the actual time it takes to do a job. Some jobs, you'll finish much quicker than book time, others you'll break even, and then there are some that take longer than listed. I prefer changing trans mounts to engine mounts on these 3.1's any day, there's more room to access the trans mount than the lower engine mount. :icon_mrgreen: The lower engine mounts aren't that bad though...having an offset ratcheting wrench comes in handy for those. ;)
All I can say is Wow. I thought my TGP had problems but after hearing you problems I don't feel as bad. I am glad you got everything worked out on that car. I am new to this site but my screename on wbodys is shadow.
Hey! My screen name on W-Body is Krenzy lol.
Hey guys. Well, my car in the last couple days has developed a couple things that I believe warrant resurrection of this thread lol.
1) Idle is terrible. It's never been 100% perfect, but now it's crappy.
2) When I start the car, I need to give it a few tried to get it to fire. When it does fire, it almost sputters out, but catches itself.
3) Twice now when I've first started it, the idle surges, I think is the word. It bounces RPM's between 1400-1800ish, then after a few bounces, it steadies out...but the idle's still bad.
4) Car has lost power, I believe. It's still quick, in 2-4 gears, off the line it's slow. Might be related to the chip, or new tranny, or to the idle problem, I dunno. I'm not terrified because I still get great mileage on the highway.
5) Kinda seem like I hit fuel cut or something...like from a dead stop I'll give her a hard pedal, and it spools up great, whines nicely, but towards the end of the gear you can hear the whine sputter and flux.
NOW: I do have a small exhaust leak, and have since I changed the crossover, but that's because i cannot line up the crossover. I just don't have the time to remove it and fix it. Not too worried about it, since it's idled alot better and still had the leak.
Before I even think of selling her, I want to fix these problems, so any help is appreciated.
Nearly everything has been replaced within the last two years, but it's entirely possible something went bad already. I have my suspicions, but I'll wait until I hear what everyone else thinks.
SO PLEASE HELP ME!
Anyone got anything?
sounds like a vac leak could be causing some of those symptoms.........I would also get that xover sealed up because that is not helping you either. Is your IAC dirty or stuck or something? That could cause the idle surging....... I usually start with the stuff that is wrong and work my way to the problem I'm having......sounds like you have a few gremlins to work out before you and pinpoint any particular problem.....
Ken
See I thought I might have a vac leak too, but I can't find one. I even checked under the plenum.
I had my IAC off the car a month or two ago, and cleaned it with carb cleaner, so I don't believe it's stuck, though I honestly don't know how to check if it's stuck.
Crossover I'd LOVE to fix, but time and location generally interfere...so while I know that is a problem, I know that's not the main cause to these problems, since it's run fine before with the crossover not being mounted correctly.
Quote from: grinders_18 on July 07, 2008, 11:06:59 AM
See I thought I might have a vac leak too, but I can't find one. I even checked under the plenum.
I had my IAC off the car a month or two ago, and cleaned it with carb cleaner, so I don't believe it's stuck, though I honestly don't know how to check if it's stuck.
Crossover I'd LOVE to fix, but time and location generally interfere...so while I know that is a problem, I know that's not the main cause to these problems, since it's run fine before with the crossover not being mounted correctly.
I had a funky vac leak one time, around a fuel injector! the o ring was not sealing well and I was getting unmetered air being sucked in past the injector. Just a reminder that vac leaks can be anywhere....even things like your throttle body gasket, egr gasket, egr valve being bad........make sure the egr is working properly matter of fact. I had a buddy with a stuck open egr one time and caused him hell for a long time.....
My EGR is deleted, as my chip doesn't require it. And the blockoff plate is secure. Thanks for pointing out other options for a vac leak. I should note that when I opened the hood the other day, it smelled strongly of gas. And just now, when I got home from the post office, I got out of the car, and could smell a strong gas smell just by exiting the car, as soon as the door opened.
Fuel regulator? See if you have raw gas in the vac lines at the regulator. Bad o2? I seen them fail and never set a code.. Faulty injectors? I'm sure you have replaced those but keep it in mind.. Vac leak? Get a spray bottle of water and start spraying trying to isolate the source... :icon_mrgreen:
Yeah O2 is about four months old, AC/Delco, but it's possible.
Where should I spray water?
I'll check the FPR here before work.
Quote from: grinders_18 on July 07, 2008, 12:40:15 PM
Where should I spray water?
Spray around all vac lines, throttle body, injectors if possible, upper to lower manifold and lower manifold to heads. If you have a leak somewhere it will suck the water in and bog the engine..
Just curious, since I've already gone through 2 CPS in under 2 years, is it possible that the CPS is dying? I've never had one that was dying, mine both just died flat dead.
Also, I just thought of this...my plugs aren't gapped at anything more than stock .45. What should they be gapped at? The chip I'm running is basically a tweaked Top Gun chip...well, really tweaked version lol.
Quote from: grinders_18 on July 07, 2008, 12:59:30 PM
Just curious, since I've already gone through 2 CPS in under 2 years, is it possible that the CPS is dying? I've never had one that was dying, mine both just died flat dead.
The CPS just sends a signal to the ICM. If it was going bad the car would missfire and run like crap. They usually just die. The plugs should be gaped @ 28-30 for boost up to 14psi. I doubt the plug gap is your problem.