So I am going to skip the disclaimer because you are working with fuel and possible electrical arcing...use your head for something other than a brain matter container! ;)
OK the pictures attached will show you what I am talking about.
1). Remove your upper intake plenum and set it aside.
2). The first picture shows the fuel injector power connector and retaining clip (shiny metal wire behind screwdriver blade). You should be able to use your thumb or finger to PUSH IN the retainer clip...DO NOT TRY TO PRY IT AWAY FROM THE CONNECTOR...it goes in towards the body of the injector.
3). While pushing in you need to gently rock the connector from side to side and pull at the same time to release it from the fuel injector.
4). Now you see the second picture. This is the two power terminals that power and fire the fuel injector. This is what we want to know the resistance of.
5). Take a digital volt meter and touch one lead (red) to one terminal, then take the other lead (black) and touch it to the other terminal. DO NOT LET YOUR FINGER BRIDGE THE GAP OR LET THE TWO LEADS TOUCH TOGETHER! You will read much less resistance if they cross/touch each other and if you are touching both of the test leads with your fingers you will read your bodies resistance...not the injector!
If each test lead is touching only one terminal at a time and your fingers are on the handles of the leads...you will read the resistance of the injector. A good resistance will be between 12.0 - 12.6 ohms. Not Kohms...not Mohms....just 0-100 ohm setting on your DVM if it is not an auto selecting unit.
If you are higher then there is a problem with your contact with the leads.
If it is 11.9 then it is borderline and should be replaced.
If it is less than 11.8 ohms then it is bad!
Most of the time I see "dead" injectors with 4 - 6 ohms of resistance. That is a near shorted winding and definitely causing driveability problems.
Hope this helps!
-Kenny :icon_cool:
Quote from: TGPilot on May 09, 2006, 09:19:28 PM
Most of the time I see "dead" injectors with 4 - 6 ohms of resistance. That is a near shorted winding and definitely causing driveability problems.
Most definetly causing driving problems. Going from almost not being driveable with the old stock injectors, to almost a perfect running vehicle with my new L36 injectors.
Kenny add to your good write up about testing each banck just in front of the computer. Does save some time if there are no errors. Saves taking anything apart except the the inner fender cover.
Jud
edited by me to reduce the amount of scroll down... ;)
Jud,
If you have done it you are more than welcome to write that in here. I have not done it that way because I like to know exactly what the injectors are reading.
-Kenny
Kenny I posted it somewhere I'll see if I can find it. If you have the correct reading 36-39 (3 injectors) ohms (as I remember) then you know its not the injectors. If the reading is off high or low than you have to go to the individual injectors and also check the harnesses for resistance. It's just a quick check to avoid pulling the manifold.
Jud
Yup I agree. I just like to spend the extra time personally to see what each is doing. Problem is even a perfect 12.2 ohm injector can still be leaking like a two dollar hooker during marty gras. ;)
ok well i just got a set of 3800 injectors for my pos. i ohm tested them today...i have 10 alltogether. my readings are coming out 11.5-11.8. based on reading am i to assume that every single injector i got is bad?
Quote from: intern8tion9l on January 03, 2007, 12:11:04 PM
ok well i just got a set of 3800 injectors for my pos. i ohm tested them today...i have 10 alltogether. my readings are coming out 11.5-11.8. based on reading am i to assume that every single injector i got is bad?
No not to worry. ;)The range for high impedance injectors is like 10-14 ohms. Depends who made them and when they made them. Another clue is that there all within .3 ohms.
Make sure when you touch your tester leads together before you test the injectors and that it reads 00.0.
Jud
thanks for the info, i was reading how less than 11.8 was pretty much junk, but i guess that pertains more to the stock ones. i was looking at the meter and starting to get quite pissed off
Quote from: intern8tion9l on January 04, 2007, 09:15:48 PM
thanks for the info, i was reading how less than 11.8 was pretty much junk, but i guess that pertains more to the stock ones. i was looking at the meter and starting to get quite pissed off
lol....yeah for L36 injectors you should be fine.
Quote from: sleeperred90tgp on December 31, 2006, 10:39:35 PM
Kenny add to your good write up about testing each banck just in front of the computer. Does save some time if there are no errors. Saves taking anything apart except the the inner fender cover.
Jud
edited by me to reduce the amount of scroll down... ;)
i know this is an old post but with the obd1 system coerrect me if i am wrong the computer won't read bad injectors right ?
Its not the computer on a OBD1 car. Its the fact that when one injector goes bad, its causes a short, which takes all 3 of the injectors on that bank out of service
Quote from: pontiac6ksteawd on February 07, 2010, 03:12:21 AM
Its not the computer on a OBD1 car. Its the fact that when one injector goes bad, its causes a short, which takes all 3 of the injectors on that bank out of service
ahhhhhh ok gotcha thanks,, yea that happened to me once before