Have my first TGP problem. Car was running fine, then just died. I restarted, idle high, service engine light on, low cooland light on. Gave it some gas, it died. Checked codes, got code 22 and 34. I reset computer (unhooked ground), same codes, would drive, and idled better, but not correctly. low coolant ans service engine light still on. Car is not low on coolant, or overheated. Book says codfe 22 TPS (replaced TPS imediately, no change). Book says code 34 could be bad MAP to ECM connection. Checked, seemed ok. Book says could be bad MAP sensor, replaced MAP sensor, no change. Book also says could be bad ECM. Don't know how to check that one. Any help would be appreciated.
First questions...
Crossover, is it original?
Sensors? How are they? O2 sensor?
Injectors? Checked them?
Tune up?
Oh and of course, since I know its coming :icon_razz: How are you grounds?
Yes, Crossover is original.
Since first post, replaced the following:
TPS
MAP
MAT
ICM
Coils
wires
plugs
IAC
Oxygen sensor
Grounds were done prior to me getting the car. :icon_frown:Still have the same codes.
Damn
not much left unless.......Chip :icon_redface:
was running good right Marty?
Was running perfect prior to this.
My knuckles are bleeding, wallet is getting empty. Need some ideas.
What chip? Should I try removing the TG 160?
Sounds like what my old TGP was doing when the ECM went bad.
Find the ECM from a junkyard w-body and swap it in to the car. Make sure you remember to swap the TG160 chip in to the new ECM too.
sounds like the vac line popped off the fitting on the back of the motor or something. Highly doubt the ground wire threw a code :icon_confused:
gets hot above that back manifold and if you didnt do the Vacu-tite mod I recommend, could be having problems with many of your fittings, elbows and tees.
Quote from: GangstGP on May 14, 2006, 11:22:47 AM
sounds like the vac line popped off the fitting on the back of the motor or something. Highly doubt the ground wire threw a code :icon_confused:
gets hot above that back manifold and if you didnt do the Vacu-tite mod I recommend, could be having problems with many of your fittings, elbows and tees.
Make a pressure tester to check this one I suggest, oh and he said original crossover still......is the O2 sensor BLACK?
:icon_eek:update - Worked on car today, double checking all electrical connections (unplugging each sensor, voltage testing the wires to see if any have high voltage, no help. Decide to check the coolant sensor. Unplug it, test the voltage, seems ok. I crossed it to initiate the low coolant light while engine is sputtering and running like pure crap. Soon as I make the loop, the engine shuts off, I'm suprised. I have my wife re-start the car, it started and was running perfectly. She says, the low coolant light is off :icon_eek:. I said, ok, but how about the service engine soon light. She tells me its off also. I check everything, drive it around, everything is perfect. I rest ECM, no codes, and still running perect. I completely confused. Can a coolant sensor cause these problems? Just doesn't seem like a correct fix. I plan on tracing the coolant sensor wires next weekend to see if a possible short,
Ideas :icon_idea:
P.S. Thanks for the input, great forum.
Coolant sensor will just effect the open and closed loop of the engine and thats just "warm up" and "normal warm running temp" which wouldn't make you run as bad as your describing...
remove the Chip and try just the stock one and then i would try a different ECM
there was a service bulletin regarding our ECM's pointing out that sometimes they become cracked and can cause intermittent no start/poor driveability issues. Apparently there is some sort or cork piece or something inside of the ECM, which I believe is directly on the memcal service plate, that pushes on the memcal eventually damaging the electronics of the ECM unit. At least remove the unit and swap it with a j/y unit to see it it solves the issues, make sure you swap the memcal so it will run and start properly, without damaging stuff.
Driving it today, still running perfect. Thanks for the input, I will start hunting a ECM. If I can't find one at a junk yard, are the Borg Warner or other aftermarket OK?
Quote from: CSI on May 15, 2006, 07:50:32 AM
Driving it today, still running perfect. Thanks for the input, I will start hunting a ECM. If I can't find one at a junk yard, are the Borg Warner or other aftermarket OK?
Umm, if you can't find an ECM in the JY there is something way wrong with that Junkyard or something :icon_confused:
Yea, the ECM out of any junkyard W-body car will work. It does not matter what engine the car has in it, as they are all the same.
:icon_frown:Well, it started acting up again. Found a ECM. Will see if that helps. Should I try it without the TG160 first, or just install in new computer?
The chip will not normally act up on it's own. EPROM's require UV to erase them. If it was sitting inthe sun for a week with the UV window open I would say yes there is a problem.
The ECM will act up though. Drop in the TG chip and see. If you have a stock chip to drop in you can try that also. :icon_cool:
Sometimes, you can find a bad ECM by performing a "tap test" on it. Simply remove the beauty cover from the fender area where the ECM is located and give the ecm a good tap(not real hard, just enough to give it a little jolt) with your knuckles while the engine is running. Listen carefully to see if the engine stumbles when you tap against the ecm. I've found several bad ECM's on various cars using this method. ;)
Did ya try it without the Performace chip attatchment? just run the stock MEMCAL?
lemme know
Seems to run fine with the new ECM, without the performance chip. I am cleaning all grounds, and replaced battery just for kicks. Performance chip makes the idle go up to 2K plus. Stock chip, stays at 1K, sometimes less. Still got me confused. With stock chip, has been running fine for 2 days now :icon_eek:
you have a PM Marty