Hello all, i have a turbo prix and need to pull just the motor for rebuild . It has low compression in some of the cylinders. I took starter off, torque converter bolts, intake, exhaust manifolds, alt, power steering, a/c and left upper mount bracket. Any help with the following questions would be appreciated...
-first, will the motor come out with crossover still in place?
-second- im having trouble with the lower trans bellhousing bolt. ( closest to firewall) i cant see it or see how a wrench will fit in there.
third- will the motor have enough room to come out after unbolting the lower cradle bolts located under and around the harmonic balancer?
I'm 19 and used to working on RWD... Any help from the experienced is greatly appreciated! thanks
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Lets see here....
1 - No, if its still bolted to the turbo, obviously, thats on the trans, so unless they both are coming out together no....Besides removing it gives you that much more room for pesky stuff in the back...
2 - Trick, find all your extensions you have, hook them together, and run it to the passenger side of the car.....Profit!!!!
3 - Yes, the engine will come out....Just make sure you check, jack the engine, if it gives lots of resistance, something is still connected, if it moves, just slowly jack while continuely checking all around to make sure nothing gets caught or snags....
Its really quite that simple.....The always worked on RWD excuse really doesn't work....Its the same basic concept once you get the fact that wires are in the way.....My dad was always the same way, then we tried our '88 Beretta, once we got that down, it was cake, hell, its not much harder than a big engine RWD car, its probably just sa easy as our '73 Trans-Am or '79 Suburban, well, except that you can sit inside the Suburban's engine bay and work on it :laugh:
Anything else? The lower coolant line on the back of the engine is probably one of the biggest PITA to do on the whole engine....good luck with that one :) That lower rear mount is quite confusing I remember, I would also suggest replacing it while its out....We unbolted the engine from that mount and left it in till we got the engine out BTW.....We will be pulling the engine out in about 2 weeks or so, sorry if I am a little rusty on the tricks, its been over a year since we have done an engine pull....
Thanks for the help. got more questions if anyone wants to help my lame junk of a tgp.
1. how do you get the lowest bolt off the downpipe? Short wrench or something?
2. will the motor get hung up on bellhousing pins if the axles are still in place and trans bracket is still bolted to frame?
3. my compression readings were 150 150 150 150 120 and 170.
I bought this heap with all antifreeze in the oil,blown head gasket and intake gasket.
i did head gaskets on it and i think the rings are bad.
either that or i suck and the rocker arms and pushrods are all wrong i dont konw.
anyone got any ideas about the compression readings? the cars got 130,000 on it and an older lady drove it. maybe im pulling the motor for no reason and something simple is wrong on the top end.
not to mention the tank of bad gas (havnt gotten there yet)........ help
Well how are the plugs now? Are they wet with oil? are they wet with coolant?
The compression seems like it passes.
Well...what did the engine do after you changed gaskets?
How many miles on the motor? Any major engine work in the past? What type/weight of oil do you run?
Does the compression bleed off or hold at those readings? You may have a severely carbon'd piston top for the 170psi and a non-ring seating piston on the 120psi.
Are you at sea-level? +1000 feet or more?
I swear by Restore oil additive! It has worked wonders on every car I have used it on over the last 10 years. I had a 4 cylinder turbo car that had poor compression readings and some oil smoke out the tailpipe...put in Restore 3 times (each oil change) over about a 6000 mile period and the smoke went away as well as the poor/uneven compression readings.
TG PILOT thanks- it has 10w30 and the compression holds. im going to recheck the rockers right now. ....im guessing the 120 is either a bad ring or a top end flaw
ok and the 170.... no clue.. If theres oil on a plug is that rings?
whats this car supposed to read 150 PSi??
and TurboGTU- the cars got bad gas in it so......the motor did nothing! this was 6 months ago haha im so lazy
OK heres what im doing....... Im taking the head to the machine shop to inspect. I guess ill try to get the gas out and get the thing runnning, maybe the rings have to re adjust cause the car has been sitting over 2 years now... any input thanks,
anyone else ?? 170 PSI??? in # 6? 120 PSI in #2 i believe.
Quote from: TGPilot on July 07, 2006, 07:16:58 AM
I swear by Restore oil additive! It has worked wonders on every car I have used it on over the last 10 years. I had a 4 cylinder turbo car that had poor compression readings and some oil smoke out the tailpipe...put in Restore 3 times (each oil change) over about a 6000 mile period and the smoke went away as well as the poor/uneven compression readings.
Restore is the only additive I've used that actually WORKS.
This is the stuff I am talking about... http://www.restoreusa.com/
I think you might have just had bad injectors. Too late now to tell.
Now that your in the hole..you might as well have them do a valve job on the heads and a resurface. Buy a rering kit from the machine shop and oil pump and have at the engine....BUT hold on there...how do the cylinder walls look? Are they scratched , can you finger nail get cought on the scratches if they are?
BTW..Engine restore worked good on my 327 for a while. That and gear oil...LOL.
Quote from: TurboGTU on July 08, 2006, 01:57:18 AM
BTW..Engine restore worked good on my 327 for a while. That and gear oil...LOL.
:laugh: haha, I love that one, my friend did that when his race engine was giving up the ghost 400 miles away from the shop.....7 Quarts of it, that takes forever, the engine blew up with 3 laps to go....... :icon_evil: