This cant be the real stuff, because iv herd from all kinds of people that is sooooo expsensive, but on ebay theres alot of cans labled R12 for like a few bucks. Is this the real deal??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-FREON-12-R12-LARGE-3-14-oz-Cans-REFRIGERANT-12_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33544QQihZ006QQitemZ160005026656QQrdZ1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FREON-R12-TWO-12-OZ-CANS-BRAND-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46094QQihZ007QQitemZ170004190392QQrdZ1
They look real to me Erik. Check out his other auctions. There is one with a dozen 12oz cans of R12 listed for $360 w/ a "buy it now" option.
Cant buy it anyways, gotta be EPA certified. Well i guess if some1 wants to have a big ol group buy of R12 and split it we need some1 whos EPA certified.
Quote from: Prospeeder on July 06, 2006, 12:31:05 AM
Cant buy it anyways, gotta be EPA certified. Well i guess if some1 wants to have a big ol group buy of R12 and split it we need some1 whos EPA certified.
I'm certified. ;) Anyone can take the test Erik, it's a "open book" type test. All the answers are there, you just need to read through the booklet and then answer the questions. I believe they charge a $20 fee for the test that you include when you send it in. You should be able to pick up a test booklet from almost any parts store for what it's worth.
haha really, i might just do that, i wanna keep my R12 system, im told there soo cold. Mines cold but not too cold, it proly could use a recharge
Quote from: mfewtrail on July 06, 2006, 12:52:17 AM
Quote from: Prospeeder on July 06, 2006, 12:31:05 AM
Cant buy it anyways, gotta be EPA certified. Well i guess if some1 wants to have a big ol group buy of R12 and split it we need some1 whos EPA certified.
I'm certified. ;) Anyone can take the test Erik, it's a "open book" type test. All the answers are there, you just need to read through the booklet and then answer the questions. I believe they charge a $20 fee for the test that you include when you send it in. You should be able to pick up a test booklet from almost any parts store for what it's worth.
The test is $18. Just took it like a month ago.
Which brings me to my next point....I'm also certified. :icon_biggrin:
If you do ever buy..don't get fooled by Freeze 12. ITs not the same as R-12. Freeze 12 doesn't cool for jack compared to R-12. R-134a cools good if you change the WHOLE system over from R-12.
Fright tools sells a nice cheap vacume if you do ever drain your whole system. I have the $1K+ unit and the cheap Fright Tools air compressor powered unit...they work just as good. Pressure test your system. It could be that your dryer is full of crap and/or the orfice is clogging up.
Yea, and don't let anyone at a shop tell you it's ok to mix Freeze12 and R-12 together.. because it's not! Freeze12 is consists of 80% R134a, so mixing that with an older R-12 system is just asking for disaster.
This is why I've started to do my own AC work and learning things myself.
That auction link you posted had some affordable gauge kits, so I may have to pick one up sometime.
Ah ic. So im curious, what all has to be changed to go to R134a? What components will I be able to keep?
Someone recently did a write up on how to convert R-12 to R-134a. His conversion table is pretty spot on, but you really dont have to change all the O-rings that are suggested. I didnt and my system worked great for a year until the AC lines blew. Then I replaced the o-rings suggested cause they came with the new AC lines.
im wondering if i Have R134a, any quick way to tell, like by the fittings? Because I have the sticker that says THIS VEHICLE HAS R12 blah blah and then right next to it is another sticker, but its all bleached out, and iv NEVER seen it on any other grand prixs, so its leading me to belive it might have said its been converted....
The nipples would be completely diferent (but dont try using that line on your wife). R-12 will have threaded nipples that look like oversized tire valve stems. R-134a will have no threads, but a lip that should go completely around the outside edge.
Quote from: TurboGTU on July 07, 2006, 01:42:00 AM
If you do ever buy..don't get fooled by Freeze 12. ITs not the same as R-12. Freeze 12 doesn't cool for jack compared to R-12. R-134a cools good if you change the WHOLE system over from R-12.
Fright tools sells a nice cheap vacume if you do ever drain your whole system. I have the $1K+ unit and the cheap Fright Tools air compressor powered unit...they work just as good. Pressure test your system. It could be that your dryer is full of crap and/or the orfice is clogging up.
:icon_lol: fright tools :icon_lol: thats what we all call it too. gotta love the harbor fright way-of-life...
eh its R12, crap
:laugh: I've been buying almost everything there.
There was an oil type that the a/c compresso rebuild shop said not to use on any system that would lock up your compressor after a while. I'm going to ask pops which one it was.
Theres a method of saving the R12 that required putting the empty cans in watter and using a vacume (not the air compressor type) pump. But I don't think you wanto use dirty refrigent in a new, clean system. But this will keep the tree huggers types happy.
If your system seems to work fine after some pressure readings with the guages test...then you prob just need a recharge, with new dust caps just incase.
why new dust caps?
incase the valves have a almost unoticed leak. I actually repaired my old taurus AC like this because after putting a 1/3 can of R12, there was a slightly small leak on the valve. Put soap on it to find it. A bubble formed and got bigger min after. Put a dust cap on and sprayed soap watter agan..no leaks. BUT the AC compressor locked a month later :laugh:.
But you also don't wanto put frieon or pressure test it if dirt or dust got on it from not having one or old ones not sealing right.
oh...i took mine off to check the valve and it made a very quiet pfffff noise, mine might be leaking like yours
Hey im gonna bring this back, im having my Car in the shop at the *gasp* dealer ship to have A/C system topped off with R12, its not that cold, its never been really cold. I remeberd u guys said possible gunked up accumulator, i hope not, lol. Hopefully this works, i want super cold A/C! Cars only got 74k on it, so it shouldnt have too much crap in it, but i could understand a small leak, probly out that valve where i herd a pff very faintly when i took the dust cap off. 110$ they said all together as my estimate. God i hope thats all it is, lol.
Why not convert it to R134a? In the long run, it'd save you money as you can buy the cans of R134a and refill it yourself, as opposed to R12.
They want 375 to retrofit it, lol. I really dont see the need to open up and replace everything on a system thats working fine right now, if i got a big leak or somthing of that nature than yea i would.
Why would you have to replace anything? Sheesh, these dealers are scam artist! The only thing recomended to replace is the drier tank, but it is not required. I am having my 6000's AC retrofitted at a shop currently, for 200 bucks, and that includes welding up my catalytic converter, safety inspection, and pulling codes out of the computer...
If you open an A/C system to replace the accumulator go ahead and change out the oriface tube. The compressor is usually the culprit if debris is moving around the system. The accumulator is on the low side of the system before the compressor. If the compressor throws any trash is flows through the condenser then onto the oriface tube. Most of your debris will be on it. Also when we converted Jimmys car to R134 The one parts man said most of the local shops (we are in Florida) use ford oriface tubes (blue) when they convert GM's to R134. We also dropped the freon level to just under 2lb. The system worked great that way.
Tim
He ain't lying, it works like a champ and it is cold , but if I had to pick between the two on coldest, I would definatley go with R12. But most of all TGP are up north anyway, so staying with the R12 might be wasting your money in the long run especially if you suspect a leak. play it smart, switch