My 1990 Turbo Grand Prix will run for about 15 minutes then quit, and will not start back up
for at least a couple hours after it quits. Has anyone had this happen and if so what was wrong :icon_question:
Replaced and Checked
Replaced ECM
Replaced Coils & Ignition mod.
Checked Fuel Pressure and that was 42 psi
I would do a search on the forum. There are quite a few simalar topics on that same issue going on right now with other members having the same problem.
If you wouldnt mind, a little background info, what have you done to the car? what has/hasnt been replaced? Stock or upgraded x-over? chip?
The car is 100% stock replaced motor back in 1999
Well, than all the same things mentioned in other topics applies..
CPS
Injectors
Fuel Pump
Cracked/broken X-Over (doesnt matter if it was replaced new from the dealer, its already gone bad)
computer
ICM
Coils
Computer Chip
Fuel Filter
Fuel Filter - this one is self explanitory...
Start with your fuel injectors, you have to take the plenum off to do this. You OHM check the injectors. 12 and up is good, 11.9 and down is going/is bad. If you have a need for a replacement set, I recomend injectors off a L36 96+ GM car (also talked about in other posts). Once you have this replaced or not replaced, move on...
Your X-over will without exception need replacing. As long as its the one from the Factory/Dealer, it will have to be replaced. The replacement ones are much cheaper thru the board here with the 2 guys that rebuilds them.
CPS is a hard one to tell. After it dies, does it have spark at the coils? Is the computer receiving timing codes from it?
Coils/ICM. The ICM can be tested at your local autozone/advanced. Have them test it at least 15-30 times. They must get it to warm up for a more acurate test. The coils can be OHM tested as well, but I dont know how to. I test in other fashions.
Computers- There is suppose to be a way to tell if its burnt, but I cant remember how..
Chip - The Chips are also "not up to spec" from the Factory. Jeff M or TGPilot and others, can give alot more info on this than I can.
Fuel pump needs to be tested at the schrader valve at the fuel rail. Again, I cant remember the PSI needed for on/engine off, on/engine on. One of the other members will tell you what the PSI ratings if you ask nicely enuf :icon_biggrin:
good write up Brian :icon_cool:
If I could get some info on the bits of info I am missing in that write up, I will redo it, and we can turn it into a FAQ - "My car doesnt run well, or isnt running, what do I do??" Afterall. this is the 3rd topic like this in the last week.
LOL
I was thinking the same thing..
The car will start and run but only for about 15 minutes then it dies and will not restart for about 2 hours then it will run for 15 min then quit. the car is 100% stock. When car quits has no spark or no injector pulse when you try to restart it. Also when it quits its like somone shuts the car off noo rough idle or anything. There is also no no codes in the ecm. I have been told crank sensor are a problem in these, but I have also been told if crank sensor is bad it wouldn't start at all. Not sure if thats true or not. Just looking for some opinions or if anyone has had this problem with theres and what they found wrong. Fuel pressure at shrader valve is 42 psi. I have put about 20,000 miles on it since 1998. The car its self has 198,000 miles on it and Still looks like it did the day it rolled out of the show room.
Parts all ready replaced
Transmissinion (flushed) 1997
Fuel Filter (new) 1997
Front and Rear Struts (new) 1997
Leaf spring (new) 1997
Complete brake system (new) 1997
Tires (new) 1997
Ecm and Prom (new) 1998
Transmission (rebuilt) 1998
Motor and all sensors (new) 1998
Motor mounts (new) 1998
Exhaust in 1998 (new)
Gutted cat in 1998
Front brake pads (new) 1999
Tires (new) 1999
Battery (new) 1999
Steering rack (new) 2000
Alternator (new) 2000
O2 sensor (new) 2001
Turbo in 2001
Fuel Pump (new) 2002
Fuel Filter (new) 2002
Cross over redone in 2002 (by a local machine shop)
Starter (new) 2003
Radiator (new) 2003
Battery (new) 2005
O2 sensor (new) 2005
Fuel Filter (new) 2005
Cooling fans (new) 2005
Ecm and Prom (used out of good running 1990 TGP) 2006
Coils (new) 2006
Ignition mod (new) 2006
Plugs (new) 2006
wires (new) 2006
Fuel filter (new) 2006
If more info is needed let me know. I just want to get her back on the road again.
This is starting to sound like a crankshaft position sensor issue to me(no spark after it dies and the way you mentioned that it dies out). The CPS' can fail in such a way that the car will still crank, but it can shut off intermittently. If you replace the CPS, be careful when pulling it out, they're known to break off after they've got some age on them :icon_redface:. The sensor should only be around $20 at most parts stores for what it's worth.
WILL VOUCH ON THE CPS: It's not that terrible to replace yourself. Trust me if I can do it, ANYONE can lol. Just pull the engine forward and it's towards the bottom of the block in the middle on the back side. probably takes 15 minutes tops.
Picked up CPS today AC Delco part # 213-148 My cost was $11.35 . Ill try it tonight.
Thanks For Your Help
I would also like to recomend you replace the ECM if that doesnt correct the problem. You had a new ECM in there according to your replacement list, then replaced it with a used ECM latter on. Since the comps are the same, its just the codes in the EEPROM that changes things it was kinda wasteful. But anyways. I know the ECM's in W's are known to go bad. And its either the ECM thats getting warm, or the CPS is fouling. So you have 2 things that are a posible.