:icon_rolleyes:
My first post, My 90 tgp is pride a joy even over the 72 corvette. Just bought Eboost 2 controller and was looking through their catalogue fond a devise that goes between map sensor and ecm, so you can up boost past the one bar mark. Just wondered if anyone has messed around with anything like this, and how this is going to effect fuel and timing curves.
Do they have it listed on a website??
if so post the link so we can see what it is your speaking about...
also WELCOME TO THE FORUM!!!!
Can't you put a potentiometer there to limit fuel cut?
i have an adjustable zener diode in my GTS. kind of tricky to get dialed in but if you have a digital voltmeter and a friend that can drive the car while you adjust the zener than it's no problem (i have mine stored in the glovebox for this purpose). remember, the computer has no way of adding fuel past the cut-out point. that can be done with tuning, larger injectors, extra injector/s, more fuel pressure etc. i'm still using stock injectors, calibration and FPR with no problems, but then i only went up to 15-16psi. i have no idea if 16psi can be done safely on a stock TGP fuel system. i'll definately be adding larger injectors and AFPR to my GTS before i crank the MBC up.
anyways, i would suggest an adjustable one. you can buy zener diodes that are set at like 4.3v, that could be a problem in that if 4.3v is above actual cutout level, then you'll still hit overboost. likewise, if 4.3v is below actual ECM cutout level, then you could be limiting max fuel and run lean (BOOM). with an adjustable zener you can set the voltage to be limited just under cutout, giving you 99% of the fuel allowed without hitting overboost.
kind of pointless to use on on my Cutlass since the stock turbo isn't good for over 12psi.
To Invasion1 I found the cheapest price on web was www.boostcontroller.com. I'm not sure how to post link but that is the web site that I bought mine from.
this?
http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?category=111
(http://www.boostcontroller.com/products/eboost2.gif)
i dunno about that.... :icon_neutral:
do you have a performace chip in the car now?? thats a better deal than this thing for the price listed on that site :icon_eek:
Turbosmart has a web page that could be better but has some info on their products www.turbosmart.com When I bought this car the man told me it had 32lb injectors and a topgun 160 chip. since I've owned it the motor has been out 3 times ugh long story but the motor should hold more perfectly blue printed bottom end thanks to Cambell Crank high volume oil pump. The top end has a cam that Comp Cams ground for my particular application at the time was high boost high rpm, comps valves and beehive springs, roller tip rocker arms 1.6. Also put on a GTRS28 Turbo which latter was told was a waist of money but if you tighten up the actuator this thing spools so fast that it will hit fuel cutoff at less than 3 thousand rpm. right now have actuator set so it is pushing 14 lbs and the car is a monster. Do have some capability to data log via Gensys scanner, but thinking about going with Moates emulator and Tuner Pro software, definitely be able to data log then.
ah ha!! now your talking!!!
and we thought you were a rookie..... ;)
the moates set up and using the tunerpro is the way to go, thats what im using on my turbo cutlass and now Kuntzie on here with a similar set up like you have is moving to.
I to be honest that thng from turbosmart seems a but to good to be true, from what i have seen and done its not that "easy" just to install something and have it work like that. but thats just my opinion :icon_neutral:
to maximize your setup i would say you should use the goodies from Moates and use the tunerpro software.
Quote from: skypilot on September 28, 2006, 10:46:10 PMbut if you tighten up the actuator this thing spools so fast that it will hit fuel cutoff at less than 3 thousand rpm. right now have actuator set so it is pushing 14 lbs and the car is a monster.
what are you using for a boost controller? IOW what's actually controlling the wastegate actuator to achieve the 14psi?
TurboSedan looks like you have your actuator hooked directly to the turbine side of turbo, some might think this would be safest because when the throttle plate closes the pressure between the two would go up causing actuator to open. But on the back side of upper intake is a threaded hole (think it's quarter inch) this is where factory hooked up port of vacuum for heater and other such function, put four way manifold there have my stock port, boost gauge and actuator hooked there were you are actually getting manifold pressure. as far as controlling actuator the rod that hooks to wastegate from actuator is adjustable watch out on just a short drive that turbo can heat up to 500 degrees the more tension that you put on spring in actuator(making rod shorter) the more pressure it takes to open wastegate. the most I could get from stock setup is twelve pounds.
Quote from: skypilot on September 29, 2006, 07:15:52 PM
TurboSedan looks like you have your actuator hooked directly to the turbine side of turbo
if you mean the sig pic, yeah i had a vacuum hose between the nipple on the compressor outlet going straight to the wastegate actuator for a short time to be safe (low boost). later on a installed a M&M Racing MBC as seen here;
http://www.turbosedan.com/cutlass/engine/DSC02354.JPG
it's a grainger valve ball & spring type boost controller. it won't let boost pressure see the actuator until a preset pressure. i currently have it turned up to about 12psi, so the wastegate remains closed until 12psi then full boost pressure goes to the actuator and pushes the wastegate open.
Quote from: skypilot on September 29, 2006, 07:15:52 PM
some might think this would be safest because when the throttle plate closes the pressure between the two would go up causing actuator to open But on the back side of upper intake is a threaded hole (think it's quarter inch) this is where factory hooked up port of vacuum for heater and other such function, put four way manifold there have my stock port, boost gauge and actuator hooked there were you are actually getting manifold pressure.
i like having the MBC sourced from the nipple on the compressor outlet because there is less of a chance of boost spiking. are you confusing the actuator with a blow-off valve? the throttle plate closing will not have an effect on the wastegate actuator. the closer the boost controller is sourced to the compressor outlet the better off you are. you can source it from the plenum but there will be more of a chance of boost spiking due to the boost controller having a delayed reaction from being sourced from a place so far from the compressor.
Quote from: skypilot on September 29, 2006, 07:15:52 PM
as far as controlling actuator the rod that hooks to wastegate from actuator is adjustable watch out on just a short drive that turbo can heat up to 500 degrees the more tension that you put on spring in actuator(making rod shorter) the more pressure it takes to open wastegate. the most I could get from stock setup is twelve pounds.
it sounds like you are adjusting the wastegate rod as if it were a boost controller, which is definately not it's intended purpose. it's adjustable for preload to determine when it starts to open and to keep exhaust back pressure in the turbine from forcing it open too early. it's not supposed to be used to set max boost level.