after much thinking i've decided i'm not getting the tgp. it's would be to expensive. the brake pump being $1300 I'd only be paying $1000 for the car. my question now is about a 1996 grand prix se. what motor comes in it? are they agood car? and can a turbo be put on it and make it as good as the tgp? sorry about the question overload :D
main reason is my dad thinks the tgp cost out weighs the blue book.
the 1996 is worth more in the blue book.
marcus
aq
Quote from: marcus18
main reason is my dad thinks the tgp cost out weighs the blue book.
the 1996 is worth more in the blue book.
marcus
Sure, but how much will it be worth when you add the turbo vs how much the turbo addition will cost you? The master cylinder isn't $1300 either, see my site www.turbogpgarage.com. They cost around $500. You probably can't turbo the 96 for $500
Markus,
Send me an e-mail, I may be interested in this car depending on location.
Thanks,
Thomas
nevermind. I'll spend $65 and findout whats wrong with it. 500 ain't that bad. if I want I'll swap the motor into something else later.
marcus
Quote from: twalt13Markus,
Send me an e-mail, I may be interested in this car depending on location.
Thanks,
Thomas
Ditto on that and I dont care about Location.
Get some Pics and email me at Jeorge@citlink.net
acctually Just get the options and Colors and General Condition of the car. if you dont want it.
If your really that worried about the brakes...put a vacumm booster on it off of one without anti-lock. That's what I did. It took a little work but not bad. It cost me less than $50.
Quote from: Mark BrownfieldIf your really that worried about the brakes...put a vacumm booster on it off of one without anti-lock. That's what I did. It took a little work but not bad. It cost me less than $50.
Any details on this? problems you ran into?
I have a lot of homework tonight so I will make it pretty short. I'll have to look at the car to remember exactly what I did. I know that the Powermaster bolts onto the firewall and vacumm booster has a special plate that it twists onto. You will know what I am talking about when you get to the junk yard. Make sure you get all the lines for the brakes...the powermaster only has one going to the back and the vacumm runs two. In fact almost all the fittings are different (if not all). My dad had a tool to roll the end of the metal line. So that would probably make it really difficult if you couldn't get a hold of one of those. The brake line going over to the passanger side (to avoid removing and replacing) I cut the line and spliced part of the line from the junk yard into it. Like I said...all of the fittings are different and they have to be hooked up to the wheel they are supposed to be hooked up to on the master cylinder. I also had to modify the pushrod that hooks to the brake pedal. All I did there was cut the two and weld them together at the right length.
I'll give you more details later. I have to run.
I guess this wasn't as short as I thought I was going to make it.
Excellent. Actually, I guess I could have asked specifics. I knew the pushrods were different, but wasn't sure if the brake pedal was different (the pin is at a different location on some electro-hydraulic assist master cylinders).
The lines are definitely an issue as the Powermaster has front/rear split and the vacuum is dual-diagonal.
How did you attach the plate to the firewall? My thought was to cut it out of the donor car, and drill it and bolt it into place where the PMIII spacer was.
This isn't really a swap I want to do so that I can figure it out, I have other plans for my car. However, I would like to know so I can suggest it as an alternative to the troublesome powermaster.
Thanks
Chris
That is what I did with the plate...it seems to me like I really didn't need to cut the firewall at the yard...I did, but for some reason I believe that it unbolted and then I drilled it to fit like you were saying. Like you said the pin was a different size on the pedal, but I just used the female end of my Powermaster pushrod. Then welded that to the other pushrod.
In other words...I didn't have to change the pedal.
does it chage your brakes from abs to just disc, or just replace the powermaster? One more question what is a good way to make your brakes more sensitive (does it do that?). My brakes and my steering are pretty hard and i would like to make them more sensitive like a luxury sports car should be. Thanks in advance,
Quote from: Black Pheonixdoes it chage your brakes from abs to just disc, or just replace the powermaster? One more question what is a good way to make your brakes more sensitive (does it do that?). My brakes and my steering are pretty hard and i would like to make them more sensitive like a luxury sports car should be. Thanks in advance,
This process would just replace the powermaster and get rid of the abs, since thats integrated with the powermaster.
The brakes should be fairly easy to modulate with the powermaster. If they are hard to push, or takes excessive pedal effort to stop, then you may have a problem with your brakes. You could swap out the rack for one with a lower ratio to make the steering easier. Its because of the fast ratio rack that it feels hard to turn.
i'll have to see if i can figure out how to change the steering ratio. Any benfits of the orginal ratio over the lower ratio. I guess like sensitive steering wheels i guess. My antilock light is always on, but then again so is my check gauges. Thanks,
BTY Car is fully repainted, now, once rims are redone and badges restored i'll post pictures.
Like he said...you would have to change the Rack to change the ratio. I don't think it is something you would feel like doing. Fill the front tires to their maximum pressure that is listed on the side wall of the tire. That will make it seem to steer easier. Also check the fluid. Its the black resevoir at the passanger side with the cap on it.