like i mentioned in my other thread a couple days ago i finally got my Turbo Cutlass running & driving again. it still has some suspension issues but other than that eveything is fine....almost.
today i went and got the car registered and took it to the exhaust shop so they could weld the exhaust together.
well after that i hopped onto I-90 for a test run. car ran awesome, pulled nice and hard. MUCH quieter than before due to the old rusty mufflers that came with the dual-outlet exhaust i added from my old TSTE. my brother was a few car lengths behind me in his Spirit R/T, and he had no chance of keeping up with me (his car is pretty quick, but it really needs to be tuned so that's not saying much).
so i get back home and for the 1st time ever since i turbocharged the car (over a year now) i have an SES light. at first i simply figured Jay must not have shut off the EGR function in the chip. so i hooked up the OTC scanner and it's code 44 - LEAN EXHAUST. obviously NOT good, and surprising considering i've turned the MBC down 2 full turns since the last time i drove it. it's probably pushing 3-4 less psi than before although i don't have a boost gauge hooked up yet to varify that. the turbo WAS replaced (with another stock TGP turbo) so maybe this one is just more efficient or something and boost level is actually the same (possibly even higher?) regardless of me turning the MBC down? anyways, i checked for vacuum leaks by spraying Brakleen on & around the various fittings i reinstalled recently and found no problems. i had replaced the plenum & TB gaskets but they were all torqued properly to spec FWIW. i know opening up the exhaust can make an engine run more lean but honestly considering it's a fake dual outlet system and that it has two OLD stock style mufflers it probably flows worse than what i was using before (single outlet exhuast with a straight-through glasspack muffler). so i don't think that is the issue.
the car was a bit low on gas, so to rule that out i went and put $10 in the tank, pulled the ECM fuse to clear the code and hopped back on I-90 to do another test run...this time i had the scanner with me. no more codes this time around, but at WOT the scanner still read LEAN :icon_mad: i'm pretty sure the 02 sensor is ok because it was switching back and forth between open & closed loop rapidly while driving (obviously not during WOT of course).
i was going to check plugs but it was getting dark out not to mention it's only 16* outside right now. i'll be doing that tomarrow for sure.
anyone know what the problem could be? any suggestions as to what to check?
well anyways, i think i'm going to pull the MBC out and just put a vacuum line in its place to run mininum boost for now. the Turbo Cutlass WILL be heading to Kenny's shop in Colorado for a full-on tune soon so until then i'm not going to worry too much about trying to make the Cutlass quicker. besides, i need to concentrate my time/money on the suspension anyway for now. i also currently have my GTS Turbo as a daily driver so i can get my 17psi boost fix with that car anyway :icon_razz:
thanks!
Check the plugs and O2 and see what colour they are first.....
a datalogger could tell ya what the BLM's are reading and confirm if its lean, other than that you have to rely on the plugs and see.
Quote from: Invasion1 on October 30, 2006, 06:45:03 PM
Check the plugs and O2 and see what colour they are first.....
a datalogger could tell ya what the BLM's are reading and confirm if its lean, other than that you have to rely on the plugs and see.
i'm using an OTC 4000E fwiw. it will display BLMs and lots of other stuff (it will display 8 different inputs of your choice on the screen at once). it kind of sucks to use becuase i need someone with me reporting the data out loud while i'm driving :lol: supposedly it records data but i haven't figured out how to make it do that. what should BLM & O2 volts be at WOT?
i really need to buy a laptop and TunerPro RT but i just can't afford that stuff right now :icon_sad:
i'll be checking spark plugs and O2 sensor tomarrow & report my findings.
thanks Dave.
Im not familar with those scanners so im not sure what it shows for BLM's but 128 is the perfect world reading where the engine wants to be.
higher the leaner and lower the richer.
Quote from: Invasion1 on October 30, 2006, 07:51:27 PM
Im not familar with those scanners so im not sure what it shows for BLM's but 128 is the perfect world reading where the engine wants to be.
higher the leaner and lower the richer.
cool. hopefully BLM is not much higher than 128 @ WOT then.
TRUE DAT!!!
Idle
Crusing speeds
and lastly PE "performance accleration" when your heading to WOT
they all in a perfect world should be at 128 for BLM's
[/quote]
hopefully BLM is not much higher than 128 @ WOT then.
[/quote]When power enrichment is enabled the block learn and integrator lock at 128 and you run off the tune(open loop)no corrections. ;)
Quote from: TurboSedan on October 30, 2006, 06:29:50 PMi'm pretty sure the 02 sensor is ok because it was switching back and forth between open & closed loop rapidly while driving (obviously not during WOT of course).
just to correct the wording i used earlier and to clarify, i meant to say it was switching back & forth between
rich & lean rapidlly while driving. obviously it was staying in closed loop while i was driving until i went WOT.
Quote from: TurboSedan on October 30, 2006, 06:29:50 PM
hopefully BLM is not much higher than 128 @ WOT then.
Quote from: flybynite on October 31, 2006, 04:45:22 AM
When power enrichment is enabled the block learn and integrator lock at 128 and you run off the tune(open loop)no corrections. ;)
ok so if BLM and INT lock at 128 they may as well be ignored at WOT then? should i just check the O2 voltage at WOT instead? what about IPW #s at WOT?
damn i really wish i had that LC-1 wideband right now :icon_confused:
ok i have my OTC scanner setup with the 8 parameters i want to check when i do my WOT test run(s) tonight::
#1 - RICH/LEAN (display toggles back & forth in closed loop of course, but will show either one or the other in open loop/WOT).
#2 - O2V (Oxygen Sensor volts - displays 0 -1v scale)
#3 - MAPV (MAP Sensor volts - displays 0 - 4.5v scale)
#4 - IPW (Injector Pulse Width)
#5 - KNKS (Knock Sensor - simply displays YES or NO)
#6- KNKR (Knock Sensor Retrard - displays degrees of timing being pulled)
#7 - MAT (Manifold Air Temp)
#8 - COOL (Coolant Temp)
my brother will be with me viewing the scanner while i drive. since it's pretty hard to concentrate on more than 2-4 parameters at the same time; for the first test run i'm just going to have him concentrate on O2 & MAP volts @ WOT, along with KR if he can. what should IPW @ WOT be? and will the IPW #s @ WOT tell me if the injectors are being maxxed out or not?
anyways, depending on how the 1st WOT test run goes i'll turn the MBC down if i have to and we'll go for a 2nd WOT test run to see if lower boost helps the LEAN problem. if the car is indeed running lean and/or getting a decent amount of KR, the MBC will be coming out until i get to Kenny's shop to get this thing tuned once and for all.
i plan on doing this tonight so hopefully i can get some replies soon. thanks guys.
Yep you look at the o2 sensor and IPW ms.Make sure the o2 voltages are above 850mv and the IPW ms are steady and do not move around a lot.Yes you need a wideband for accurate AFRs at WOT.Later
thanks!
wish me luck!