OK. Here's the deal. My front drivers ABS wiring to the wheel sensor is MIA. I don't know what, where or why but it is missing. Looked under the passenger seat and the wiring is there but somewhere on it's trip to the sensor it gets lost!! Does anyone know the path it takes to get to the wheel. I have the dash apart and do not see where the wiring goes through the firewall. I was hoping that maybe the wire got cut or something so the previous owner / mechanic just shoved it through the grommett to hide it. Thought I could just look under the dash and splice it. Any help is greatly appreciated.
David
I'm looking at page 8A-201-14 in the manual. Does this show the ABS sensor wire? Or is that the E-brake wire? I also read that you should replace the entire assembly. No splices allowed. Not quite sure the best way to do this. I know that first I need to find the break as well as how to route the cable. It doesn't appear to go into the engine compartment at all. Looked under the dash pad. Pulled out the rug, e-brake assembly and sounddamping. Maybe access through wheelwell? Gonna poke away at this again tommorrow.
David
David, the wheel speed sensor harnesses passes through the grommet visible in the fenderwell and goes through the back of the strut tower. The harness then runs into the engine bay right at the firewall and joins the main ABS harness just to the right of the master cylinder(if you're facing the engine). If I'm remembering correctly, that harness is tucked behind there pretty good...hopefully, your wiring is just stuffed right past the grommet and is sitting near the master cylinder/strut tower area.
PS: Check out page 10-11-18 and 10-11-19 in the manual. The harness/wire routing is shown there. ;)
mfewtrail. I do not have those pages in my manual. Maybe because you have a 90? It doesn't look like any pages have been ripped out. Is this something you could scan and post? It's just what I was looking for! Any type of pic or anything would be priceless. Thanks so much!
David
Here ya' go. ;)
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f14/platjblser/IMG_1503.jpg)
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f14/platjblser/IMG_1505.jpg)
There's also another wire routing view that goes all the way into the car, let me know if you need it too.
Matt. Thanks so much for those drawings. It really was exactly what I was looking for. My 89 manual doesn't have them.
It's been raining and I haven't had the time to check it out yet. From memory though I don't recall seeing those cables in the engine compartment.
How bad can this job possibly get? Figured Id' just pick a good splicing point and then go to the junkyard. Should be no problem getting one.
Someplaces say you can't splice it but I am not worried about that.
Matt. If you get a chance I'll take that diagram. Thanks man.
David
Quote from: The Master on November 08, 2006, 09:18:00 PM
Matt. Thanks so much for those drawings. It really was exactly what I was looking for. My 89 manual doesn't have them.
It's been raining and I haven't had the time to check it out yet. From memory though I don't recall seeing those cables in the engine compartment.
How bad can this job possibly get? Figured Id' just pick a good splicing point and then go to the junkyard. Should be no problem getting one.
Someplaces say you can't splice it but I am not worried about that.
Matt. If you get a chance I'll take that diagram. Thanks man.
David
You're welcome. Those cables are tucked down behind the master cylinder area a couple of inches and various vacuum hoses, etc. are in the way from what I remember. There is a plug as shown where the wheel speed harness mates to the main harness near the master cylinder, maybe you'll get lucky and that will at least still be there. Then you can just get the portion of the harness that goes to the sensor and simply plug it in.
Still can not get this figured out. Do I need to remove brake components to get at this? Went back to the book under "power head assembly". For removing the booster assembly step 1 is remove secondary dash panel (page 5D-3). Sounds so easy on paper. I could not get that panel out. If I had demolished it by janking I wouldn't be able to get it back on. I guess I wasn't expecting this to be such a challange. Have you had that secondary dash panel off?
David
I've never had that panel out, I'm sure others here have though, maybe they'll chime in.
Quote from: mfewtrail on November 09, 2006, 01:23:26 AM
Quote from: The Master on November 08, 2006, 09:18:00 PM
Matt. Thanks so much for those drawings. It really was exactly what I was looking for. My 89 manual doesn't have them.
It's been raining and I haven't had the time to check it out yet. From memory though I don't recall seeing those cables in the engine compartment.
How bad can this job possibly get? Figured Id' just pick a good splicing point and then go to the junkyard. Should be no problem getting one.
Someplaces say you can't splice it but I am not worried about that.
Matt. If you get a chance I'll take that diagram. Thanks man.
David
David, Don't remember where I read it (maybe the manual)but it said don't splice any of the sensor wires. Replace the cable as an assembly.
Jud
Update. Went to the junkyard and snatched (2) front cables. Left and right. Plugs both end. I am not sure if these are the exact harness. Came out of early 90ish Grand Prix. While in the yard I was amazed at how easy it was to remove the harness. A lot of the vehicles had the secondary dash panel already removed. Some of them had the wires run on the exterior of the panel. Looked stock. No charge for these items.
I still need to get the panel off without destroying it. Maybe there's a plug hiding back there, maybe the wires been cut.
But after seeing all these cars and the way it was done, I should be able to track it down. Preliminary pricing for a front wiring haness was not promising.
I think I'm over the hump here. Thanks for the help guys.
David
OK. I can finally close out this thread. Just got the car back from the mechanic. I gave him those diagrams and the harness I got from the junk yard. He said it was a piece of cake. Also had new brake fluid put in. No more ABS light :icon_biggrin: !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Sweet.
Thanks for the help Matt.
Ahhh at least one PMIII Success Story ;)
Right Nick?? :icon_razz:
Quote from: Invasion1 on December 14, 2006, 07:49:12 PM
Ahhh at least one PMIII Success Story ;)
Right Nick?? :icon_razz:
:laugh: That's awesome you got that figured out. Hopefully I can get mine sorted out and working properly- might need some help...
Sweet deal. :icon_mrgreen:
How did the brakes work with the sensor bad/missing? I'm wondering, because I'm having a similar problem with my TGP. My brakes work fine, but the antilock function isn't working. Did your antilock work?
Thanks
Nick
Nick. The ABS light was "on" but everything appeared to work OK. Now with new sensor and new fluid the brakes work great and the light it out. Firm and responsive. I've been following your progress. I'm not a mechanic but here's my .02
1. Completely remove all air from the system (easier said then done).
2. Troubleshoot / repair wheel sensor.
3. Relax, you're almost there.
Quote from: The Master on December 18, 2006, 06:14:26 PM
Nick. The ABS light was "on" but everything appeared to work OK. Now with new sensor and new fluid the brakes work great and the light it out. Firm and responsive. I've been following your progress. I'm not a mechanic but here's my .02
1. Completely remove all air from the system (easier said then done).
2. Troubleshoot / repair wheel sensor.
3. Relax, you're almost there.
I already did step 1. I got ALL of the air out of the system, and I bled the crap outta the system until new, clear fluid came out at each caliper- I think I went through like 1.5- 2 gallons of brake fluid lol! It stops GREAT. The only time I got the brakes to lock up was when I drove it on a loose surface- like I said when I tried it yesterday, the brakes just lock up on gravel, when a few months ago, I could see and feel antilock working.
So what do you have for warning lights?
BRAKE light is on steady- that I think is because my Ebrake is stuck on- (It locked up my rear wheels, and the cable seized, so I just disconnected the Ebrake cable from my calipers, so the cable is still stuck in the Ebrake on position.) I need to get a cable replacement- anybody got one that isn't seized?
ANTILOCK light is now on steady, and like I said, if I drive it on a loose surface, I can get the wheels to completely lock up- no ABS.
PMIII needed it own specific section i think ;)
Quote from: Invasion1 on December 18, 2006, 07:00:47 PM
PMIII needed it own specific section i think ;)
AGREED! I think u should make my BRAKES AARGH! thread a sticky in that section lol. ;) :laugh: