I need some new injectors. I was wondering if anyone knew what the injectors are rated at in these cars and what might be a good swap. Maybe a little bit bigger injector to help out when I start putting a little more boost to this thing. :wink:
I think Jeff M. is making a chip to work with the sy/ty injectors which I believe are 29 lb/hr. At least that is what I've heard. Anybody know for sure?
Quote from: Mark BrownfieldI need some new injectors. I was wondering if anyone knew what the injectors are rated at in these cars and what might be a good swap. Maybe a little bit bigger injector to help out when I start putting a little more boost to this thing. :wink:
They are 22lb hr. Don't know of any good substitues. New injectors will really make it run right though.
You need to use ACDelco part #17086651... Jeff M has the best price on these, If you can't reach him by email jeffm@turbograndprix.com cc it to me at jim@turbograndprix.com and I'll make sure he gets it. :)
Is that the original part or something slightly better? Does anybody know of another vehicle that used these injectors?
That is the Original part #
Everyone that uses different (aftermarket) injectors has problems, Jeff is working on a chip that uses the Sys/Ty injectors, but it is Not ready yet, so if it was me I would either get a set of originals, or just get 2 to replace my bad ones and wait untill jeff gets the chip done for the 22lb injectors (which also needs a set of jeff m ported and polished heads to work with the new chip) :shock:
So nobody has tried the Accel style fuel injectors? I figured there would be at least one person who'd try the far superior design. I dont know if they are compatible with the TGP, but they make them for the LT1s and other GM V8 multi ports.
Well...I haven't tried them yet, but they are on back order and should be here in about a month...I'll let you know how it turns out.
Posted: Sat Oct 12, 2002 12:12 am Post subject:
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Well...I haven't tried them yet, but they are on back order and should be here in about a month...I'll let you know how it turns out.
Yes please do so.. I have to replace mine soon in this engine... I would like to know how they work.. KCP
I put the new Accel injectors in my car this weekend...It runs better than it ever has. I put the 24lb/hr injectors in it. I don't know if that was all that great of a decision...but I haven't seen anything negative come out of it yet. My car never idled well and now it runs like a clock. I couldn't be happier.
I was almost ready to put a brick on the accelerator and let the car sail off of a cliff...but now I am just as happy as a little kid with a new puppy.
Time for an aircleaner upgrade.
What would be the best aircleaner? Doesn't a cold air intake get a lot of water and dirt off of the road? I wanted to put a true cold air intake on it but I drive this car a lot and I don't want to be sucking water and dirt up into my air cleaner all the time.
By the way...the injectors are only $180 for six from Summit racing. Summit part number ACC-150624. If you want smaller or bigger injectors, the last two numbers are the lb/hr rating, and the 6 is the number of injectors. I actually ended up ordering 6 150124's because the six pack had to be back ordered.
Glad to hear it's running Mark! I'd go with a K&N directly on the turbo. If you do a search you'll find a couple different part numbers. I have the RU-1390. I'm going to get another one that is an 1" shorter. This one rests against the intercooler.
Any word as to how long the chip will take for the bigger injectors? I'm thinking of a chip soon...
Mark,
Glad to hear they worked well for you. Keep us posted as to how they work long term. Did you already have a chip in your car?
Thomas
No...I'm still running the factory chip...Do the chips change the shift points...because my car likes to stay near that red line for a while before it shifts. It would be nice if it shifted a little earlier.
Dont think it changes the shift points, just chipped my STE and it wants to cut boost under WOT at the shift points. Did an idle re-learn (again) and will wait about a week to see what it does now.
Quote from: twalt13Dont think it changes the shift points, just chipped my STE and it wants to cut boost under WOT at the shift points. Did an idle re-learn (again) and will wait about a week to see what it does now.
It will. The boost is cut slightly at shift points to lessen the strain on the tranny. Stock and modified chips do this. The chips Jeff sells ramp the boost up much faster after the shift amont other things.
Chris
So what problems can happen if too big a fuel injector is used?
I am still looking into the possibilty of Accel 24 lb/hr, and dont want to rule them out because one person is testing them right now. Thank you Mark, all input is appreciated!
Living in florida, i personaly think it important to retain the stock setup of getting cool air that has not gone thru the radiator, so i went to k&n website, found a panel style filter that was as close to stock size as possible, trimmed it quite a bit, and tucked it in stock air box.
I had actually stuck a vacume guage line in the stock air box,
where hose to crankcase goes, to see how much vacume was occuring with paper filter, the needle showed some vacume at WOT, I never did repeat after installing K&N.
to each his own
Quote from: florida_tgpLiving in florida, i personaly think it important to retain the stock setup of getting cool air that has not gone thru the radiator, so i went to k&n website, found a panel style filter that was as close to stock size as possible, trimmed it quite a bit, and tucked it in stock air box.
I had actually stuck a vacume guage line in the stock air box,
where hose to crankcase goes, to see how much vacume was occuring with paper filter, the needle showed some vacume at WOT, I never did repeat after installing K&N.
to each his own
what was that P/N?? for the K&N
Mark,
How are the new injectors working out? Any problems yet?
Thomas
screw accel i'm running stock until I get p&p heads and a bigger turbo.
Mark,
Any status update on the aftermarket injectors????
Thanks,
GPChief
From the reply, I assume those 24lb injectors aren't working too well...
I found a set of 23lb/hr injectors on Jegs, part number 110-150823, pack of 8, $230. These are roughly 5% more flow than stock. I think the ECM can compensate for the change by reducing the BLM/INT numbers. Not to mention, these injectors are the pintle style, instead if the Multitec style...which I don't like.
I bought a set of stock BRAND NEW GM injectors to replace the leaking injectors in my TurboSTE. Now, less than a year later, they are leaking again. In fact, they've probably been leaking for some time now. I attribute the problem to the design of the injector, because the injectors in my Cutlass Convertible (Multitec style) were leaking too. I always use good gas, from quality stations.
Or you could wait for the Jeff M 29lb chip, but I understand you'll need his heads too in addition to the injectors.
Jason
Jason,
Those injectors that you found in Jegs, What brand were they?
Accell
Jason,
Was looking at those also.....It just isnt cost effective to spend $130+ for one injector of the old style when you can get the new style for roughly $30.00 a piece.
Have heard both ways, they work well and that they dont......Someone please either dispell the myth, or make it true.
Thomas
Well, it depends on what is wrong with your injectors. Like I said, the Multitec style injector has problems leaking (so I've determined by the 12 injectors I've got that leak). I'm thinking a switch to the pintle style injector will fix the problem of leaking injector replacement every 10 months. Also, the Multitec injector has a problem with clogging...then the injector heats up and eventually burns out the injector.
In fact, I think more injectors are leaking then people actually think (or want to admit). If anyone has these problems...it could be a leaking injector(s):
-Bad fuel economy (assuming no other econo problems like O2 sensor)
-Idles higher than normal
-Spikes in idle speed due to fan turn-on/compressor turn-on/putting the car into park or neutral
-Overall weak idle (goes real low when putting in to gear)
Now, people can have these problems and have it be something else, but 75%-95% of the time it's cause of one or more bad/leaking injectors. Sure, (even at GM retail price) it might be cheaper to buy one injector if only one of yours is bad than it would be to buy a set, but you don't know if any of the others are on their way out. So you spend $130 now, and 2 weeks later you have to spend it again. Why not spend a little extra cash and replace them all? I think it only makes sense to buy the whole set.
And I think a lot of the problem of people saying they suck has to do with which one they go with. If they get a set of injectors that is too big, they are back where they started--running rich because of leaking injector(s). The ECM cannot adjust enough (using BLM/INT) for the larger flow injector, so it runs rich...and like crap. In fact, I'm even a little concerned about running the 23 lb injectors with stock calibration. They aren't much bigger, but they are big enough that the BLM will be less than 128 (say 120). Now when you floor it (the ECM goes into PE Mode), the BLM will go to 128 because it was less than 128 before PE Mode, and the car will run rich during that time. Not that this is necessarily a problem, but it might not be "peak" performance. I'll have to some research, and when I get some extra cash I'm going to get a set of the 23 lb injectors and try them. I'll let everyone know what happens.
Jason
I've got bad injectors (leaky), & no time (like everyone else).
Thanks Jason
Sorry its been so long. That car never ceses to piss me off. The transmission hates to shift at WOT and it still smokes, but only on rare ocasions. I finally changed my oil return line, but it still does it. Its weird. It runs for a week without smokeing then it will litterally make you want to run form it in fear it smokes so bad. Then it will quit smoking again.
Anyway, as far as the injectors (which the smoking was my original reason for discovering they were bad, that and it quit running and kept flooding itself when I tried to start it) they are working great. Unless they are leaking and causeing my smoke. I doubt it...I would think an injector would be all the time. I still haven't put a new air cleaner on it. I don't want to spend any money on a car that has 10,000 miles on a rebuild that smokes. Its so misterious. It doesn't act like a normal car that would smoke.
The car does smell a little rich when I start it at first. I haven't noticed a change in fuel economy. I would say that the factory ecm is doing a great job of compensating for the bigger injector. And if you use the calculator for flow requirements on the Accel web page...it will show that the 22lb/hr injectors are just right. I want a factor of safety. That is why I went with the 24. I was also afraid that the Accel flow rating may not agree with the MultiTec and once again I wanted to be safe.
All in all, I am happy with my injectors. I don't race the car, because it doesn't shift like I would want it to and that causes it to embarrass me with times like I don't even want to mention on here.
The injectors...along with a new air cleaner and a chip that allows more boost...I think would be great. The ECM will compensate for the small change in flow rate. That is what the O2 sensor is for. :wink:
I exchanged my injectors with a set from http://www.lindertech.com/reconinj.htm
The set was $149 and they're flow matched. I sent my set to them and had a rebuilt set within a week. The car runs great now.
Mark as for your random smoking, do you know if its gas or oil? I had a 2.8 V6 beretta once that had a cracked ECM board. It would flood really bad while cranking but if you heated the computer it would start right up. Very strange problem. Might want to look at your at the electronics too.
Here's my input to this subject. THe replacement or aftermaket injectors might have different resistance than the oe TGP injectors even though they have the same flow rating. That might be the cause of poor performance by those replacement units. And if you use low resistance (10ohms or lower than the TGPs--forgot what the TGP ohms were--listed somewhere in the TGP forums--)injectors, They might heat up and loose acuracy. The computer can drive high resistance injectors at full capacity. Those low ones will reach their full duty cycle very quick.
I had posted this somewhere else but here it is on the correct spot.
I ordered the 23lb accels. I'll let everyone know how mine work out.
Cool! Let us know.
I just put the 22lb Corvette injectors I won off of Ebay in and they fixed everything. The car runs awesome now! I paid $86 including shipping for 8 of them. Now I have a few extras if needed.
Jason
So Jason...do you know what the part number is for those injectors. I would like to drop in new injectors on my TGP and $86-$150 sounds good to me! Especially if they are a direct replacement... 8)
There was no GM number on them, in fact there was only like a 3 digit number on them. I won them in an auction. I'd suggest to look for injectors on ebay, and ask people what their flowrate is. Thats what I did.
Jason
IF i'm remembering my injectors right..
18 LB = 3.1 / 2.8 stock
22 lbs = 3.1 turbo
22 lbs = 3100 n/a
22 lbs = 3400 (not sure about this one, may be larger)
25 or 26 lbs on 3300
28 lb on 3800 engines
I may be wrong, but i was going to try to get my car to run with the 3.1 injectors and swap to a set of 3.3 liter injectors and see what happened.
Probably going to re-trim the pulse width in the ECM afterwards to get it to lean out at vaccum.
-- Lee
Quote from: eclipse5302There was no GM number on them, in fact there was only like a 3 digit number on them. I won them in an auction. I'd suggest to look for injectors on ebay, and ask people what their flowrate is. Thats what I did.
Jason
Do all injectors have the same body design? These injectors you won you said you put them in...did you have to modify anything to make them attach to the injector rail?
the 2.8/3.1 NA injectors are rated at 16.7#'s IIRC
TGPilot, Ben Phelps used 19# Ford Mustang 5.0 Fuel injectors and they were direct fitment in his NA 3.1......also he said that they are rated higher on GM fuel injection and become around 21#'s, so possibly the 24# Ford Racing Mustang injectors or other higher rated ones will worK? anyone own a 5.0 and have these injectors to compare? :?:
Quote from: TGPilotDo all injectors have the same body design? These injectors you won you said you put them in...did you have to modify anything to make them attach to the injector rail?
Well, most of them use the same body design. But usually the difference will be the length. These just happened to be the right length. They attached to the feul rail just like the old ones did, without modification. The SyTy injectors are slightly shorter, like the 5.0 injectors, but the lower intake plenum is deep enough that the o-rings still seal.
Jason
What year/model Corvette did the injectors come from? Sorry for the redundant questions, but these injectors are direct replacements for the TGP as far as size? I am in need of injectors on my TGP and don't want to pay $100/ea for them... 8)
I would suggest these injectors if you could find a set. I don't know what year they are off of. The guy said they were TPI injectors for a Corvette, or Camaro. I'm guessing they are for the HO 5.7 liter V8. I'll try to do more research because I'd like an extra set. I'll let you know.
Also, is that correct that the 3100 injectors are 22lb? That sounds a bit big for a NA 3100--seeing how the 3.1/2.8 are 16-17 lbs, I can't imagine that the better flowing heads need that much more fuel. But who knows...
Jason
3100 injectors are roughly around 17.6#'s according to Ben......there are a couple of threads discussing different injector flow rates on the GMF board.......I should know...lol.....when I first joined every board I skimmed through almost all the old post.......took me a while to get caught up too......never tried nor will I try to read everything at clugp message board though.
UPS dropped my injectors off last night :D I got 24lb in stead of 23. It damn snowed last night so I don't when they are going in now :cry:
Just looking at what eclipse wrote, The 5.0 injectors, I have three sets of them. I happen to have a set of 24lb and 2 sets of 19lb injectors. I am looking to experiment with the 19lb to see if they will work with our setup. The guy who did Ben Phelps who did sucessfully use them had a NA 3.1. Eclipse this is directed to you or anyone who could shed some light on it. What are the pitfalls of such an experiment on the TGPs.[/quote]
Uhh, the 24lb/hr yes, the 19lb/hr NO. The stock injectors are rated at 22lb/hr. If you put 19lb/hr injectors in the car will run lean. It's much better to run rich than lean...not much can break if you have too much gas. Tons can break if you don't have enough. So I'd say try the 24lb injectors, stay away from the 19s.
And BTW the 19s probably worked in the NA 3.1 becuase stock the NA 3.1 uses 16 or 17 lb injectors. More is OK (although it may not run right--it all depends on if the ECM can compensate that much), less will be OK up until you gernade the engine from being too lean. So give the 24lb injectors a try, but don't use the 19lb ones. Also, get a new set of injector o-rings and lube them up good before install. That way you won't have any intake leaks.
Jason
I would not experiment with any other injectors with out having a Snap- On computer hooked up to your car and being completely knowing of all variables and parameters having to do with injectors. Lbs/ hour is only one of these variables. Others to be considered are pulse width, resistance, and spray pattern(important as hell, because fuel can wash off lubricant from moving parts).
Sure, it is important to keep an eye on the BLM/INT numbers after a swap of injectors. You need to know whats going on... I run Diacom+ myself.
There definately are a lot of things to consider while picking a new injector. But, as long as the flowrate is very close and the resistance is roughly 10-18 ohms...the injector should work fine. At least thats been my expierence.
But you are right, you just can't throw anything in without knowing a little about it. All of the injectors we have been talking about should be fine for replacement in the TGP.
Jason
Quote from: PavementPounderI would not experiment with any other injectors with out having a Snap- On computer hooked up to your car and being completely knowing of all variables and parameters having to do with injectors. Lbs/ hour is only one of these variables. Others to be considered are pulse width, resistance, and spray pattern(important as hell, because fuel can wash off lubricant from moving parts).
Unfortunately the snap on scanner has a software glitch that doesn't report all the parameters right for the TGP chip. Diacom does report ok.
I found that to be true with my Snap-ON 2500 scanner. But my Diacom works great.
Jason
Will this DIYer connector and program work with the TGP brad band and code.
http://pweb.de.uu.net/pr-meyer.h/aldl.htm
I am so tempted in making so many scan tools, W-band O2 sensors and such with my electronics skills.
Is it even better than a normal scan tool?
Has anyone tried it?
I am sure I would want to monitor what the computer is doing to those injectors and palse width--I have a osciliscope for that :wink: .
That program looks like it will work. But a real scan tool such as Diacom + is much nicer...but expensive.
But, give it a try. The parts won't cost you more than $10.
Jason
My injectors are finally in. Did not start the car yet, it was sooooo cold when i got off work i decided to wait and now it damn snowed today GRRRRRRRRR!!!!! I also have to take my intake manifold, front valve cover, motor mount dogbones, and motor mount plates into the shop for a pricing on chrome plating. They are talking like $200 for the upper intake man, and front valve cover alone.
So has enyone come to a decisive part # for the proper pintle style fuel injector? :drinking:
I don't think so, not yet anyhow.
But take a look at the 89-90 Corvette injectors. We already have the Corvette fuel pump, maybe we got it's injectors too...
Jason
Thats because the Corvette wishes it were as bad ass as it's big brother - The Grand Prix - :wink:
Well if idbest has the correct part number then www.gmpartsdirect.com has the injectors for $66 each. Is jeff even cheaper then that? If he is I might go with those instead of the accels.
Remember to look at the BIG picture with GMpartsdirect. SHIPPING! I know jeff's price is at least close to that, and probably cheaper after shipping, so check with him. Personally I would get them from Jeff and only support GMpartsdirect if I absolutely had to, which I never do.
Chris
gmparts got the best prices on parts but shipping is insane! I was looking for a part that I found for $3.50 and they wanted to charge me $10.50 for shipping. Same with the gm strut braces $7.80 w/ship $17.50 wtf <--------
Plus if you go and buy the TGP GM style injectors you will be right back to the same problem in 1-1.5 years with them leaking from what I have read from others. I am going to talk to a couple of friends and see what they recommend for an upgraded injector on our cars. Seeing is how everything is hush hush on the other side of the fence... 8)
I'd really like to see how this injector thing turns out, because I think mine are leaky as well. My car would puff some black smoke under full throttle. It would also load up on fuel when I would launch at the track causing some hesitation. After I get my tranny on Saturday, and I get it rebuilt. The first thing I'm buying is injectors, and drag radials. I'm looking for at least a 2.0 60' this summer.
Skalor, know that there is a parameter in the chip that stops you from trying to build a lot of boost when the vehicle is not moving, if you take a look at your timing when the black smoke is pouring out the back you will note timing takes a huge dive!! Aside from this saving the tranny, it mainly saves the TC from the extreme heat when brake torquing. I have seen some pics of burned off paint, bright blue metal bulging TC, that were cooked from too much BT, ouch so just that info. NOW, at the other end of necessity, that being a good launch/60 ft time, I had a guy testing a race chip down in hot Arizona and not only did he run a corrected 13.56, he was running drag radials, and with that combo, found he did not need so much boost (as to initiate this rich belching smoke during brake torque) to get a great launch so, even he was able to build just enough boost to avoid building a lot of heat, kicking in the drop in timing/black smoke, but ran some great 60 ft and et times. Just wanted you to know this feature was not going to rob you of you need for speed :twisted: . BTW, his 60 ft were 2.0 every pass, nice and consistant!!
Jeff M
In reply to John Jackson the ACDelco part #17086651... is taken right off the empty injector box setting on my computer desk, alomg with many other part boxes!!!
And as for other others asking about the injector style I've replaced the injector in my red 89 almost 4 years ago, the ones in my black 90 2 years ago, and my 1st white TSTE a year ago and none of them are leaking!! :shock: :crazyeyes: :shocked!:
Quote from: Jeff MSkalor, know that there is a parameter in the chip that stops you from trying to build a lot of boost when the vehicle is not moving, if you take a look at your timing when the black smoke is pouring out the back you will note timing takes a huge dive!! Aside from this saving the tranny, it mainly saves the TC from the extreme heat when brake torquing. I have seen some pics of burned off paint, bright blue metal bulging TC, that were cooked from too much BT, ouch so just that info. NOW, at the other end of necessity, that being a good launch/60 ft time, I had a guy testing a race chip down in hot Arizona and not only did he run a corrected 13.56, he was running drag radials, and with that combo, found he did not need so much boost (as to initiate this rich belching smoke during brake torque) to get a great launch so, even he was able to build just enough boost to avoid building a lot of heat, kicking in the drop in timing/black smoke, but ran some great 60 ft and et times. Just wanted you to know this feature was not going to rob you of you need for speed :twisted: . BTW, his 60 ft were 2.0 every pass, nice and consistant!!
Jeff M
It's amazes me more and more the amount of engine management that GM was able to put into these cars. I mean this computer has more parameters that most aftermarket units.
I don't think that I'm building that much boost on the line...I don't recall, but I think I was launching around 2000 rpm according to my tach, which is probably way off. I was able to launch higher, but I would just spin. At around 2000 rpm I would get a small chirp and would be off. My car smokes while I'm driving it as well. I've even had someone else drive my car while I drive behind them. I'm going to try GM TopEnd Cleaner first to see if that helps the situation. In the summer I ran a consistent 2.2 on every pass, but that was with Kumho Ecstas which are notorious for not being very sticky. I think that with some sticker tires, that I could easily get 2.1s if not 2.0s. I was also considering getting a small fan to mount to the factory tranny cooler to make sure the tranny fluid stays consistant while in the staging lanes. Heat is the enemy and I'm going to try to avoid him at all costs :)
Quote from: idbeastIn reply to John Jackson the ACDelco part #17086651... is taken right off the empty injector box setting on my computer desk, alomg with many other part boxes!!!
And as for other others asking about the injector style I've replaced the injector in my red 89 almost 4 years ago, the ones in my black 90 2 years ago, and my 1st white TSTE a year ago and none of them are leaking!! :shock: :crazyeyes: :shocked!:
ok...as said by you a few times...Jeff has the best prices on the TGP GM injectors. For those folks on this board who would be interested in purchasing injectors from you guys....ummm I mean Jeff...how much do they cost?
Skalor Yea, when I hear of guys wanting to spend big bucks on a Greddy or Blitz (nice units) boost controller I cringe, there is more things in the chip?s boost control then any aftermarket has today, (except dual boost level at a flip of the switch) even though some of it we don?t like (that black smoke at BT) at least changes can be made. I have an HKS boost controller for my Typhoon (T69 turbo) that is such a challenge to self/program and I still don?t think it does a good job, and what a pain to understand the manual, besides the Japanese interpretation of explaining in English, very different outside of just them trying to understand our words, other HKS owners have had more challenges than they expected or thought needed for such a piece.
Anyways, so you ran the Kumhos V700? I am glad to hear you tell us how they worked out for you (sorry for you!) as I have been watching out for a tire that hooks and lasts a while on the street, and an excellent magazine that I really enjoy is Sport Compact Car, I don?t care if there is little for American cars, lots of stuff relates, and their latest issue covers all drag/competition tires, might want to snag it, its not a test/bummer but all info is good. I do like the user feedback at Tire Rack and Discount Tire, and 1010Tires (small but coming up, and they are the only ones to show discounted Toyo tires) but at this time it looks like the best tire might be the Toyo Proxes RA-1. 8/32 inch tread so there is some road life to it before bald, not as awesome looking tread as like a Yoko A032R but lots of rubber real estate, and enough grooves to allow you to get home when it rains, only a 40 treadwear rating so maybe 10 to 15K miles if not used for other than spanking, but enough stick to be worth a try, will let people know how it works out. How old are your Kumos? I know you know age hardens them too fast but just wanting more info. From the racing I did with a tranny temp gauge in the outlet line from the tranny, its surprising that the temps where not that high with normal road use and a lot of acceleration tests (verse auto-cross driving). My digital temp read 180 most the time (160 thermostat for engine coolant, does help along with aux cooler) with a few spikes to low 190s, but did not stay there that long, and I was doing quite a few hard acceleration runs testing some things.
As for smoking, maybe your FPR is starting to leak allowing the fuel pressure to be just slightly higher than is needs during idle and cruise? Pulling the o2 sensor allows you to determine if smoke is from the engine or the turbo, its after one and before the other, thank the car gods, nice tool for that!!
Jeff M
Skalor, an update. Not to say you have not hear of this, or did not do it but those Kumos, and other comp tires need to be up to operating temp to put our thier goods, my book say 140 degrees so, heating them up after dripping out of the wet-box should get them as sticky as they are going to get, like most tires, just we would like a comp tire to always be ready :) I remember doing a movie, Terror from the Tarmac Part I, during some big smokey burn-outs, the Goodyear GS-C I was running started to get hot enough I could not get them to burn any more, but got some awesome launches, so had to let them cool to get back the smoking effect we wanted :twisted: .
Later
Jeff M
Well my accels are in and they fit perfectly. I finally found another bolt to fit the oil p drive seal that disappeared into thin air. I will have the car fired up this saturday.
Please let us know the end result of your new injectors... 8)
http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~dzug/89iroc/pics/injswap/inj-swap.html
scroll to the bottom of the page, might be useful to those of you wondering about the ford injectors.
My injectors have been in now for maybe 1 1/2 mos without problem. I found out the same thing they said about the "appearance" of the injector not going all the way down into the hole. The o-ring does totally seal the hole so no gas will escape and the end of the injector is longer and sits farther down in the intake manifold. as said by Jeff M that the tgp stock chip values make the car run extremely rich (overly) which could possibley esplain why the cars kick out that black smoke when you punch it. You would think the 24Lb would be to much for the stock chip but my car runs great.
Sorry I haven't posted much lately...school sucks this semester. Now I know why my advisor looked at me funny when he said "you realize nine of these hours are thermo based classes?" Anyways. I went down to Florida for spring break and I drove the STE. Only had a couple problems :roll: The brakelight switch broke and I had to pull it out and fix it in the parking lot of the hotel because the brake lights were permenantly on or disconnected. That and I had a tire come apart and was forced to buy four shitty tires in Alabama.
But back to the original reason for the post...I drove down there with myself and 3 other guys all averaging about 200# each and all of our luggage and enough liquor to kill an elephant. I got 35 mpg running about 75 mph the whole way. If that's not f@*$'n awesome I don't what is.
i posted before about the brake or stop lamp switch. you are talking about the one under the dash above the steering assembly? if so that thing is about one of the hardest parts to replace on the car and it only cost $12 :cry:
Now If I remember correctly, someone said that there is a recall on that part. I replaced mine but the brake light still stay on sometimes, and occasionally when I am driving, and I go to use cruise, I have to pull back on the brake pedal just a little bit and then the cruise will work. But anyway, it was a bitch to replace.
if it stays on every now and then then its not adjusted correctly!! when you got the part did you adjust the silver pointer in the middle or just put it in?? from the factory its not in the right place (sometimes) so you need to go back and move the pointer. I found that out because it was doing it to me. 1st get a mirror (what i did) or a person so they can monitor the rear brake light, then pull out the switch but leave the plug connected. Take the silver pointer and pull it upwards and either move it left or right to see when the brake lights come on. When you have figured out which way you need to lock the pin in, move the rectangular/circular section of the switch that hooks to the brake pedal arm until the light comes on at a little more than what would be a touch on the brakes. Then just reinstall it. I know its a MF but that shit is dangerous when your brake lights stay on and someone is behind you and they don't know if your braking or not. :D
the guy that owned mine before me put a spring on the brake pedal so it would pull forward a little and the brake lights wouldn't come on, tacky, but it works i guess
so what are some good injectors? or is it just preference?
I found 22lb accels at jcwhitney for $39 a piece
anyone know of a cheaper place?
Marcus