Alright I'm gonna try to solve the last of my electrical problems here.
On my TGP, the 3rd brake light doesn't work, even though I put new bulbs in it. (from the junkyard)
My electric trunk popper doesn't work- no matter what button I push: the one in the glovebox OR the keyless entry remote.
And last, but not least, my reverse lights don't work. I have replaced the bulbs in the reverse sockets, and they still don't work.
I have checked ALL of my fuses, and they are all good. All bulbs have been replaced on the reverse lights and the 3rd brake light.
Any ideas of what's going on here?
Thanks,
Nick
I seem To Vaguely recall that there is a switch that controls both the 3rd brake light and reverse lights. For Some Odd Reason I keep thinking Turn Signal Switch, that somehow if its broken then said lights won't operate. I am not positive, It is late and I'm tired but that just keeps sticking in my head. Does Power go thru this switch by any chance?
On my turn signal switch, everything works perfectly: turn signals work perfect, brights work perfect, cruise works perfect.
Break out the test light and start checking. You replaced the bulbs and it still doesn't work. Each bulb needs 2 things A 12v+ and a 12v- to work. Get the test light and pull them bulbs out and see which one is missing or both. The brake lights do run through the turn signal switch but the third brake light does not. They usually come right off the brake light switch. The reverse lights get it 12v+ from the nuetral saftey switch on top of the trans. Find out whats missing 12v+ or 12v- and post back.
Tim
Sorry man, but I know NOTHING about electrical stuff, so I'm gonna be really slow at doing this. What kind of tool do I use to check the wiring?
Thanks
start with a simple test light. They are cheap to buy. Hook the clip up to a good ground. remove the bulb and as someone hit the brake pedal or you have the trans in reverse which ever one you are checking. remove the bulb and touch one of the terminals in the light socket with the probe end of the test light. If it doesn't light try the other terminal. If it doesn't light you do not have the 12v+ going to the light. Now move the clip from a good ground to a hot (12v+) source and do it all over again. With the test light clip hooked to a ground (12v-) the light will light when the probe touches a 12v+. If the clip is hooked to a hot (12v+) source the light will light when the probe touches a ground 12v-. The light is not lighting because one or both 12v+ and 12v- are missing form the bulb. Find out what is missing and post back. Depending on what is missing depends on where you have to check next. You can buy a cheap test light for a buck or 2. You can even make one your self. Get a light socket that has 2 wires coming off it put in a bulb. Add some wire to one of the wires and put an alligator clip on the end. Take the other wire add some wire to it. Get an old screw driver and grind the tip to a piont and hook that wire onto the shaft. That would be a cheap test light too. ( I actually worked with mechanics that used this type of test light at work)
Tim
Alright I finally had time to work on this. Yesterday I took the test light, tested all the connections, and it turned out that the trunk popper issue was just fuse-related (fuse was missing! :icon_eek: damn previous owner :icon_lol: ) The 3rd brake light issue turned out to be the bottom of the bulbs: where the bulbs plug in, the wires in the bottom of the bulb were messed up. And finally the reverse light issue: I took off the center/shift column, and lubed up the shift linkages, and shifted it through teh gears for a minute, and low and behold, the reverse lights work! So yeah just some minor things were causing these problems.
All electrical problems solved! :icon_cool:
Alright! Good job, Nick!
Quote from: TGP Nick on February 17, 2007, 11:07:00 AM
And finally the reverse light issue: I took off the center/shift column, and lubed up the shift linkages, and shifted it through teh gears for a minute, and low and behold, the reverse lights work!
reverse lights run through the same fuse as your trunk popper iirc. definetly has nothing to do with your shifter being lubed or not lol.
That would explain it- I couldn't find any switches under the counsel.. anyway it all works now- no more electrical problems! :icon_mrgreen: