My STE has an oil leak that made a good amount of oil get into the intake. I was told it's the oil seal in the turbo.
it's not coming from the motor, I know that for a fact...but I want to fix this, any ideas?
or is anybody selling a cheap rebuild kit (under $80 shipped) or a T25 turbo I can trade mine for and pay extra on top of my core or something. I need the car driveable asap!! let me know, my direct email is goten@wi.rr.com.
Thanks!
Did you check the PCV? A guy on here user name Flybynite rebuilds turbos.
second flybynite. Unless you know the clearances and can measure them to verify your parts are good a standard rebuild on a high mileage turbo may not work for you. Speaking from personal experience....you can get a t25 basic rebuild kit for 50-70 bucks on ebay....I have a writeup on how to do it yourself here:
http://60degreev6.com/content/HOWTO_Rebuild_T25
Ken
Were is the PCV valve on the 3.1?
would a rebuild be the best thing to do though?
I saw the Ebay auctions too, and that's what I end up doing if I need to rebuild/fix the turbo.
The PCV is in the rear valve cover and runs up to the bottom of your upper intake manifold.
Is blue smoke coming out of the tail pipe? Just at startup or during running or getting into the throttle. That will tell you if it is a pcv or turbo. Typically a bad pcv will produce a puff of smoke at first startup......but oily intake like charge pipes or upper manifold? You need to be more descriptive of the problem in order for us to really help you. Also just because the intake or charge pipes are oily does not mean you have a bad turbo......it could have been a bad turbo in the past but the old oil was never cleaned out. I would just monitor your oil level for a few thousand and see if you are consuming any before I would jump on rebuilding that turbo it is not super easy but it can be done, not something I would do as my first step in a search to find out where the oil in my intake is coming from. You could also put some dye in the oil to see quickly if it is blowing oil and where it is coming from.....
Ken
there is oil in the intake tubing and some in the intercooler/BOV...etc...
I'm rerplacing sparkplugs and the oil right now, and I'm going to try starting it again.
at start up before there was a puff of smoke everytime.
1st off - the oil was black, and I mean black like Knightrider...lol
2ndly - the vacuum tubing on the throttle is all loose. so I'm going to put some RTV to seal it up good and tight.
3rdly - I started taking spark plugs out and noticed that they were singed with burn black oil.
I'm going to turn the motor over a few times with no sparkplugs to release all the excess oil in the cylinders.
I'll post again here, once I've tried to actually "start" the car, pray it works!
Time to check the compression............... :icon_frown:
What're you thinking? Cam?
More like valve seals or rings...
car runs fine, just misfiring thanks to the oil... by making myself soun d like a total retard...how do I change the rear sparkplugs. I can't figure out how to take the UIM off either.
the runs, it just smells like gas cuz the rear sparkplugs are covered in oil.
I want to change them but don't know how :icon_question: :icon_confused:
Messaged you on how to change them.
replace the oil return line as well, if that thing has totally collapsed and separated internally you will be experiencing this, you may be able to remedy or at least prolong the life of the turbo for a while..
does it smoke worse at idle than it does at any other time? it's totally normal to experience some oil in the pipes, but if its pooling in the charge pipes from the turbo then you have a problem. The return line is a common issue and fixes it sometimes, but you may still have bad turbo seals.
I've fixed the oil issue...it was just because of the car sitting since august.
now I have an issue with is jumping into reverse and drive when I take it out of park.
also it smokes under the hood, I know the crossover is really cracked but is that really why?
also I have misfiring, not terrible but its there.
othere than these thing SHE LIVES!!! I remember now why I bought her :icon_biggrin:
Check the coils and module.......wires probably need to be replaced as well. Replace the O2 with a Delco or Standard one. Check your injectors as well........it could be running really rich.....the UIM is held down by the throttle body cooling lines and the rear valve cover pcv as well as that rats next for brackets and vacuum lines hanging off the back.......then there is always the bolts and studs holding it down. Just go through the entire engine management systematically and verify stuff is good or just replace it with new parts.....these cars are old......
http://www.tgpforums.com/index.php?topic=3204.0
Get your x-over fixed!
Replace your coils and module with some NEW GM stock parts.
Replace the distributor O-ring IF you have a oil leaking problem and cannot find it.
Seafoam clean the engine.
Search any of that up if your unaware of what it is I am talking about. Have fun and get R done.
there are 2 open ports under the throttle body, what the heck do they go to?
I'm doing the coilds and ICM right now, I'll report back in a few minutes.
It just occured to me that maybe those were the lines the collant would have run to and from in? Maybe the previous owner did a throttle bypass?
Shown here:
http://www.v6z24.com/howto/heaterbypass
Are those the two lines, Steve?
jumping junipers batman!!
he did do the TB bypass!!
sweet...
I fixed the low colant problem...when the previous owner did the bypass the tube was straight so it was stopping coolant flow almost entirely. no I washed and degreased that valve cover breather tube that use to connect to the airbox and attached it there instead. it fit perfectly and the low coolant light is off!!!
next up is the oil leak...????? oh yeah there is none.
3rd - coil packs, wires, sparkplugs, ignition...etc all check out.
I think because the car was sitting for so long it just needs to have GIANT CLOUDS coming out of it...I'm seafoaming the motor tomorrow!
wish me luck!!! :icon_cool:
If you need any help with seafoaming it, I made a seafoam thread a couple years back. Search for it and you should find it right away.
You should Seafoam it FIRST, then change the oil and sparkplugs afterward.
Good luck :icon_cool:
already did the sparkplugs and oil change though..
Leave that seamfoam out of the engine then. If it runs fine now just leave it be. Nice job getting stuff done in record time......you must have been working your a$$ off.
Ken
I think it still runs rough, it just doesn't leak oil anymore.
It still runs rough, but doesn't want to stall out anymore, which I know for a fact is because of the Black oil I drained out.
now she starts up fine and stays running till I turn the key off :icon_biggrin: YAY
driving is still iffy....it does accelerate the way it should and still has some popping out of the exhaust like some great backfiring is taking place.
yeah I've been working on her since monday pretty much 7am-midnight every day so far.
deffinetely a noticeable difference since monday for sure!!! :icon_mrgreen:
I'll post updates as I take the crossover/turbo out and weld it shut. along with replacing the IAC and O2 sensor...
by the way, where the heck is the rear O2 sensor??? I can't find one.
There is none just one o2 on the turbo. Easy as pie! :icon_mrgreen:
hey guy what kind of plugs are you running?
Have you examined them for carbon or any signs of misfire? If you have a bad x-over, the O2 is most likely not functioning properly, don't go with anything besides GM on that one. If you are replacing it consider doing the x-over with it so you don't ruin another one. Try changing the fuel filter as well, that might be bogging you down.
stick with delco parts for the ignition, R42LTS plugs and stock coils, wires as long as they aren't a $12 set. I've always had good luck with everything delco but batteries.
I only use Autolite plugs, weather they be copper, platinum...I have copper coren one in there now, I have a ZZperformance 20% higher load fuel filter for my 3800 GTP that I can't put on thanks to the stock one being so rusted...and because there's nothing wrong with the old one yet.
I'll be useing this filter on the STE tomorrow aklong with replacing the Throttle Position Sensor, O2 sensor (not BOSCH again).
the crossover doesn't seem to be the issues though, it's like the downpipe flex is leaking....or maybe it's just cuz of the wind. prolly is the X-over.
I'll post updates tomorrow, I'm taking the rest of the night off. working on my TGP since monday non stop has made me feel kinda sick.
I don't blame you, not to start any poo flinging but I use autolites too as well as champions. Stay away from the platinum tip stuff ok, just get regular plugs. Just make sure it is a TGP plug they are a colder rating than the NA plugs.
O2's Delco is the best agreed but I have had good luck with the Standard brand from rock auto online. You get them for like 20 bucks shipped. Whatever you do don't get bosch I know they are the only o2 available at the part store right? I don't know what is up with that but the bosch really sucks hard. Don't get a delco o2 from the stealership they will try to charge like 60-80 bucks. Again get one from rock auto or talk with Kenny K (TGPpilot) or Adam (Flybynite) they can get the delco o2 for like 30 bucks I think. Take it easy man and enjoy the car!
Ken
longstory short, the car has NO PROBLEM ANYMORE!!!!!! YAY!!!!!!
Except the oil seal in the turbo is leaking a bit, so I want to do a full rebuild. I've ordered the kit, but can't figure out how to take the turbo out.
I know how to do it, but the bolt under the turbo and the rear manifold lower bolt are not possible to get at.
I have a post on the forum asking for help, if you can offer any insight I would be very appreciative!!!@!! :icon_biggrin:
steve
You will need a stubby wrench to get the bottom bolt out from the turbo and downpipe. I think it is a 13mm? I believe I used a Craftsman stubby wrench set and it worked awesome.
Hope that helps
Nick
that's what I tried using, but I can't move it at all...