I've used PB, WD 40, and good old fashioned muscles...lol
nothing has made it come apart.
I tried everything on the ring that holds the intake portion on but it wont come out, and the exhaust housing wont separate.
does anybody know a witch doctor?
I need some advice, any ideas you can give me will help me out!
Thanks!!!! Steve
Is the turbo off the car? You need big snapring pliers for the ring and once you take the four bolts and 2 halfmoon shims off, the exhaust housing should come off with a few taps. Dont forget to mark the housings and turbine shaft and whatnot before you take it apart. good luck
the turbo is off, and no snap ring tool or pliers helped. So I'm doing what a several turbo guys have told me. put the whole turbo in a bucket of motor oil over night, and the rust shouldn't be able to stay bonded to the parts.
I called a mechanic about this idea and he said if everything else fails the doing this is good. just to make sure I degrease the parts before I start to reassemble it.
I'll post pics later tonight of my progress.
Quote from: Bullet on April 19, 2008, 03:22:58 PM
the turbo is off, and no snap ring tool or pliers helped. So I'm doing what a several turbo guys have told me. put the whole turbo in a bucket of motor oil over night, and the rust shouldn't be able to stay bonded to the parts.
I called a mechanic about this idea and he said if everything else fails the doing this is good. just to make sure I degrease the parts before I start to reassemble it.
I'll post pics later tonight of my progress.
did you read my how to? You need a special set of internal and external snap ring pliars to get that compressor housing off. The turbine housing shoud come off with a few slams with a hammer around the edge once the 4 bolts are off the half moon washers. Really to get the exhaust side off is a pita and I had to really hit the thing hard to get it to come apart.
See my how to below
http://60degreev6.com/content/HOWTO_Rebuild_T25
120k all original miles, and 18 years will do a number on a turbo.
I used a vice and a rubber mallt, hammer, crowbar, and all of my PB, WD40, 24 hours in 30 weight motor oil.
anybody want to do the rebuild for me?
I'll pay for shipping, and I have the kit.
PM me if you can help cuz I've used every trick in the book and I'm running out of time. I have to go to emissions in less than 20 days.
turbo is apart!!!! :cheers:
sorry about not taking pics, but I can't find my digital camera.
I'll post back if I run into more problems...but I doubt it :icon_biggrin:
did you look in the bucket of motor oil for the camera
Quote from: TGPvsTIII on April 20, 2008, 06:25:49 PM
did you look in the bucket of motor oil for the camera
:lol:
Steve, good to hear you got it apart! Be sure to keep us posted!
Glad you got it apart, I know I was at the end of my wits before I got both mine apart. I had to go ape shit on that turbine housing with a hammer.
NEW UPDATE!!!!!!!!!
I'm buying a new turbo unless someone will give me $1400 for the car as it sits.
I did the correct rebuild, everyting is where it should've been, but a couple of the rebuild parts broke while I was doing it.so I cleaned up the stock thrust bearing and put it back in with the other "new" bearings and keepers.
the turbine will not rotate.
I'm done breaking my back on this, I'm going to just buy a Brand new T28 turbo.
anybody want a perfectly good running mclaren that just needs a turbo to drive let me know $1400 obo and you pick it up.
Quote from: Bullet on April 21, 2008, 02:04:28 PM
NEW UPDATE!!!!!!!!!
I'm buying a new turbo unless someone will give me $1400 for the car as it sits.
I did the correct rebuild, everyting is where it should've been, but a couple of the rebuild parts broke while I was doing it.so I cleaned up the stock thrust bearing and put it back in with the other "new" bearings and keepers.
the turbine will not rotate.
I'm done breaking my back on this, I'm going to just buy a Brand new T28 turbo.
anybody want a perfectly good running mclaren that just needs a turbo to drive let me know $1400 obo and you pick it up.
No offense but you obviously did sometihng wrong otherwise it would spin. Sorry it turned out like that, is there anything you can think of that did not go together nice? Like the thrust bearing or the piston rings? If so where? A new turbo is pretty expensive considering you want to sell this car........I'm willing to bet it will cost more than you are asking for the car.
right after the rebuilt, and re-installation - I started the car and looked at the turbo and it was spinning but kinda slowly, so I shut it off right then and called a few of my buddies and asked what the problem could be...they all said start it back up and watch the turbine move faster and faster and faster, just needs to have oil all around inside it. kinda like a motor needs oil to move otherwise it's metal on metal... :bonk:
I followed the instructions word for word, pic for pic, and replaced everything inside it - Keepers (U-rings), bearings, bolts, thrust plate and bearing, and the seals.
theres no oil leaks like before, and the exhaust coming from the tail pipes have never been so clear (can see it).
if you think I should take the turbo back apart now I'll do it just tell me to, otherwise I have no issues, noises, scraping...etc from the turbo and it moves freely. (spools a lot better than before :icon_mrgreen:)
Wow, that was a fast turn around, from turbo is seized, to, its spools so much better now.. LOL..
Quote from: pontiac6ksteawd on April 22, 2008, 03:55:07 PM
Wow, that was a fast turn around, from turbo is seized, to, its spools so much better now.. LOL..
As long as the clearances are where they should be and you maintained whatever balance was between the turbine and the compressor wheel then you should be ok. So did you replace the radial bearings and thrust plate and bearing? You should really have held that blade from spinning for a few minutes until the oil came up before letting it free wheel at idle but I'm sure you did not harm anything....... Just make sure your change the oil if you have not already to go with the new turbo. Also keep an eye on the shaft clearance a few hundred miles down the road and make sure it is not hitting the housing..........like mine did!
Quote from: cobracmdr on April 22, 2008, 07:23:45 PM
Quote from: pontiac6ksteawd on April 22, 2008, 03:55:07 PM
Wow, that was a fast turn around, from turbo is seized, to, its spools so much better now.. LOL..
As long as the clearances are where they should be and you maintained whatever balance was between the turbine and the compressor wheel then you should be ok. So did you replace the radial bearings and thrust plate and bearing? You should really have held that blade from spinning for a few minutes until the oil came up before letting it free wheel at idle but I'm sure you did not harm anything....... Just make sure your change the oil if you have not already to go with the new turbo. Also keep an eye on the shaft clearance a few hundred miles down the road and make sure it is not hitting the housing..........like mine did!
it sounds like you just said I should've stuck someting into the turbo to keep it from spinning...lol
everything that was in the turbo has been taken out and replaced, that means the bearings, U-pins, thrust plat, and thrust bearing.
only thing old about the inside of the turbo is the original turbine shaft and blades.
You should be good to go then :icon_mrgreen: Any exhaust leaks? Make sure they are fixed as the head loss in the pipe due to an exhaust leak has a profound effect on the turbo response and peak boost. Just a tip and good luck with the sale!
Ken
thanks!
yeah the rear manifold needs to be tighten back down, and the x-over leaks a little bit but not really much. I know all about the padding under the head sheilding that makes the leak(s) quiter, but there's almost no exhaust coming out from under the sheilding. only from the back side of the motor. urgo the rear mani.
Price is lowered to $1500 with everything working