Just bought a TGP sunday.. been working on it for a few hours monday and tuesday after work.. Claims the motor was rebuilt b/c the piston rings were worn out and was causing the engine to burn oil.. We all know what the problem is.. I never seen a 60*V6 Burn oil b/c of rings with only 126,000 miles.. Asked the guy if the turbo was rebuilt and he said no it works fine.. Well he never ran the car and it has sat for 4 yrs with a rebuilt engine in it... not running.. It had 2 alarm systems in it and i think they wouldnt let the fuel pump kick on thats y they didnt get it running.. The Fuel pump does work and the gas tank is rusted out somewhere because when it was hauled home gas was leaking.. I ripped out every piece of alarm equiptment.. Now im dealing with the Headaches of hoses where they shouldnt be and routed wrong.. There is a brake line JB welded into the Coolant Temp Senser hole on the front head for the Turbo return and the rear head has the plug in it.. So the heads are reversed and there is no Temp Senser.. The Impeller hits the housing on the turbo so im replacing the turbo.. When taking the turbo out removing the lines and noticed there was no Oil Cooler.. The adapter is there for the Oil Pressure Senser and the Oil Feed but no Cooler.. Was there some that didnt get a cooler or did someone remove it? Also the Drain back tube is broke or something and was pieced together with hoses.. I am going to remove the heads in order to fix there JB welded Brake line Coolant return.. IN the pic the brake line is by the water pump.
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/3n83mb3p2ZZZZZZZZZ92l83881375a47c16.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/3nc3m43pdZZZZZZZZZ92l64d2997f826311.jpg)
All of them came with the cooler, so they probably left it off when rebuilding it for some unknown reason. It sounds like you've got your work cut out for you on that one. :icon_eek:
if you have the piece (oil filter adapter) with the oil pressure sender sticking out of it, that IS the cooler. the 2 lines coming out of it provide the coolant to "cool" the oil. With your blocked of coolant temp sensor on the head, get a 3 wire coolant temp sensor (lower intake) and wire it in with the xtra connector that went to the rear head.
IF you can get pictures of the headaches i might be able to help you out.
Ill get you pictures of it all now.. Just got the heads off about 15 mins ago.. There was also a bolt used as a head bolt that isnt even a head bolt.. if that made sense..
yea get some pics ill be around a little while longer tonight.. take a picture of the headbolt too i wanna see it. haha
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/Copyof1990TurboGrandPrix001.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/Copyof1990TurboGrandPrix007.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/Copyof1990TurboGrandPrix006.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/Copyof1990TurboGrandPrix005.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/1990TurboGrandPrix010.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/1990TurboGrandPrix005.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/Copyof1990TurboGrandPrix004.jpg)
Ok added the pictures as you can see.. The brake line in the head, the missing oil cooler, the broken drain back with hose making it work, and the front seats that i will sell if any intrest..
Anyone have an extra drain back tube? or can i get the AN fittings and make it work?
What is wrong with your seats?
Quote from: GPChief on February 25, 2009, 08:56:41 PM
What is wrong with your seats?
Nothing that i know of all functions work and can confirm that once i get the battery in.. I figure let someone have a nice set.. there are no rips or tears in the leather.. besides the 4 way and compressor sitting on them.. both pass and driver in real good shape.. like i said if any intrest... i can get them more pics..
I might have a turbo for you if your interested. T28 hybrid in a T25 casing. $300 shipped!
make sure you get a brand new set of headbolts, there not too much money, we have stretch bolts so they must be replaced. one does look different than the rest thats for sure, its because its threaded for the front mount to thread into.
Quote from: bake82 on February 26, 2009, 04:45:00 PM
I might have a turbo for you if your interested. T28 hybrid in a T25 casing. $300 shipped!
I have one already from a member. I will keep you in mind though. For a spare once it's running. Thanks for the offer.
Quote from: Prospeeder on February 26, 2009, 05:44:05 PM
make sure you get a brand new set of headbolts, there not too much money, we have stretch bolts so they must be replaced. one does look different than the rest thats for sure, its because its threaded for the front mount to thread into.
Yes I have a head bolt set on it's way. The head bolts use a 15mm soviet and the one that was just sitting in the hole was a 13mm socket. The threads were stripped and the bolt size was way smaller than a head bolt. It almost looks like a alternator bolt. The long ones.
Could be a starter bolt too. lol
That car is pretty hacked up.
Good luck with the extensive project!
Quote from: TGed on February 27, 2009, 01:35:36 AM
Could be a starter bolt too. lol
That car is pretty hacked up.
Good luck with the extensive project!
I'm just hoping the block is ok. It was suppose to be rebuilt. The top end is all hacked b/c the owner put it together and forgot and put things where they shouldn't have gone. I have it all under control. If this engine doesn't work out but hopefully it does I'll just bolt all the turbo stuff to a 3100 and call it a day. I'll post up some pics of the engine bay as it sits now later today.
its not that hacked, at least the block is painted nicely get that oil cooler and you'll be all set.
Ok worked on it more today and not liking what am seeing maybe i could be wrong but hopefully somebody could help me here.. The oil pan looks to be a N/A and was modified for the tube to work but has been hacked so far that it needs a Turbo Pan.. Since the pan is a N/A i am thinking the block and heads are N/A.. So i have a picture of the Block vin numbers and the Letter that is casted into the block.. i want to make sure that is the right casting letter.. In the picture u can kinds see the numbers.. there are 2 sets of number.. the last part of my vin and another set that i dont know what they mean.. But anyway my VIN is stamped crooked and on an angle is that right??? Almost looks to be someone else has stamped it in? maybe? I have a picture of the pistons too to make sure they are Turbo pistons also.. How do i confirm the heads are turbo heads? If anyone can comfirm these for me it would be greatly appreciated.. So now i will be pulling the pan to replace it and hopefully put it back together the right way.. I also got all new Silicone hose for the water and oil..
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/tgp001.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/tgp004.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/tgp005.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/tgp003.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/tgp007.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/tgp006.jpg)
i believe the last numbers in my heads were 511. Hopefully someone chimes in about the block, if it is the NA engine, i wouldnt worry too much about it. I dont think anyone is 100% sure if there is any difference.
where were them numbers at?
If the VIN on the block matches your car, then it's the stock block. Our blocks have the "T" cast into them just like the NA ones. Even if you had an entire NA engine, there wouldn't be anything to worry about. Josh's(RIP) old turbo cutlass had an NA engine with a tgp turbo + tuning and made more power than the majority of the TGP's on this board. It made 230whp on a dyno dynamics dynamometer which is pretty impressive. On a dynojet, it would have likely been around 260whp. The NA vs. TGP heads are not a big concern either. The TGP heads offer a very slight reduction in compression that is almost not worth mentioning.
well thats good to hear.. woo
I was going to say, I just put 2.8 heads on my TGP and it runs great.
the cranks and rods are all forged, and it has a higher flowing oil pump....from what has been told. I want to belive it so our cars are extra cool :icon_razz:
LOL i like that one.. :laugh: Its true though according to the background that i found..
http://www.turbograndprix.com/Extensive%20Details%20and%20Differences.htm
All the Uniqueness and Useless info found here..
Does anyone have the parts im looking for?
Oil Pan?
Oil Drain Back
Oil Cooler
Hard Pipes For Water Supply From Water Pump To Oil Cooler And Turbo
Heater Core Supply Tube
Fuel Lines From Rail
Etc..
The crank is cast iron all though id like to believe this stuff too, but that page is full of errors and has no source of proof. Look where it say about the crank "design from Chevy astro" what the hell is that supposed to mean. chevy astros were RWD and has 4.3 90 degree v6s. I think who ever wrote that was trying to "hype" up the history and amount of thought that was put into the TGP engine. Possibly Jeff M wanting people to think their engines were forged so he wouldnt have a problem selling his chips.
Well Heres an update. pulled the pan off to put a turbo pan back on and just killing me now.. the rods and caps are labeld like this 3/3 : 1/4 : 1/1 : 3/3 : 4/1 : 3/3 that is going from 1 to 6 this is not good.. Also found all rod cap nuts just a touch over finger tight.. :icon_confused: pulling the motor out tomorrow for later on this week to inspect and measure everything to see if it needs to go to the machine shop.. Never ending battle!!! Hopefully after this it should be it the engine will be finished.. the previous owner i can now say is a hack.. Pictures to show the shame..
Also found the transmission painted a 2 colors.. green and black..the torque converter is green also.. Also see a rusty funky color on the cv shaft that goes into the trans... :icon_confused:
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/tgp008.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/tgp009.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/tgp010.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/tgp011.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/tgp012.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/tgp013.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/tgp014.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/tgp015.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/tgp016.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/tgp017-1.jpg)
ohh crap your lucky you checked that!
Quote from: killinprixs on March 09, 2009, 07:10:26 PM
ohh crap your lucky you checked that!
Yea Tell me about it.. Or else 6 Rods would be going through the pan!!
:icon_eek: Wow man!
Quote from: TGed on February 27, 2009, 01:35:36 AM
That car is pretty hacked up.
Good luck with the extensive project!
/\ lol
That sure does suck!
Well at least ill have a new engine done the right way once its back together.. Then if the trans decides to go ill use the engine in something else..
5 speed swap it now before you give it the chance!
Quote from: TGed on March 10, 2009, 04:28:58 AM
5 speed swap it now before you give it the chance!
Only if I had the parts. It would be nice though.
Did you buy it in Washington State?
No. In des plains,il
some pics of the car and engine as it sits now.. just picked up my 5spd parts car to do the swap to the tgp also.. pics of the 5spd car found here http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=77243.0..
But pics of the tgp now..
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/5SpdGP018.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/5SpdGP019.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/5SpdGP020.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/5SpdGP021.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/5SpdGP022.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/5SpdGP023.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/5SpdGP024.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/5SpdGP025.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/5SpdGP026.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/5SpdGP027.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/5SpdGP028.jpg)
Ok alot has happened since last post.. I brought my engine to the shop to get rebuilt on March 21.. got a call March 30 from the shop and was given the price to rebuild it.. 1,600 and i will be getting it back on April 8.. So they are now in the process of putting new .20 over pistons, grinding the crank .10 over on the mains and rods, new cam bearings, new cam, lifters, timing set, redoing the heads and some other stuff.. While my engine has been out i swapped the firewall plate added the shifter and cables, removed every component that has to do with PM3 and today after work will be putting the brake and fuel lines in the car and possibly put my new fuel pump in the tank and put the tank in the car.. This swap is coming along easy and is not that hard either.. Having a parts car to get every part to swap over makes it way easier also.. no jy runs.. Ill try to get some pics up tonight for the ones following this thread..
All i have left to do before the engine/trans goes back in is get a clutch and resurface the flywheel and put new boots on my axles..
Edit: Oops forgot that i have the wiring left to do and send my chip out to adam to get tuned..
cool man sounds like she's coming right along!
heres a few pics to start with.. i put the gauages in.. trying to find my pioneer speakers to put in the dash before i put the pad on but cant find them now.. installed all brake lines and the master today also got the walbro pump mounted on the sender but not wired yet..
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPTearDown014.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPTearDown013.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPTearDown011.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPTearDown009.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPTearDown010.jpg)
Looks like you are coming along well, be sure to let us know how the new brakes work. I've often wondered how they would work with a boosted car.
I've driven 2 5-speed TGPs and they are soooooo much funner to drive.
should be ok on the brakes, you shouldnt be making boost while trying to stop anyway right?
Thanks guys.. its coming along fairly well.. Interior should be finished today and then its all about the motor and trans and wiring..
I hope that im not boosting when trying to stop.. lol something would be wrong if so.. Im really not worried about the vacuum system on the turbo.. if anything i will have a firmer pedal.. Probably the same stiffness as a PM3 with a bad accumulator.. LOL
Quote from: TGed on March 10, 2009, 04:28:58 AM
5 speed swap it now before you give it the chance!
BTW i took your advise.. :laugh:
well this past weekend on friday i made my x-over support bracket.. saturday and sunday i rebuilt my 2 axles.. wasnt hard but i didnt feel like working on the car this weekend so i just spread out the work on the two days.. I also ordered my spec stage 3 4 puck clutch on friday and hopefully it will be here next week.. Things are still coming together and the pile of new parts in slowly getting smaller which is a good thing.. here are the pics of my bracket... let me know what you think..
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPTearDown015.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPTearDown016.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPTearDown017.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPTearDown018.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPTearDown019.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPTearDown020.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPTearDown021.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPTearDown022.jpg)
Looks good! Stick or MIG?
Quote from: GOT2B GM on April 06, 2009, 06:01:19 AM
Looks good! Stick or MIG?
Mig. I'm really good at welding. Thanks
Right on, I do a lot of welding at my work as well (Millwright), mostly stick (7018 rod, DC) but some MIG now and then.
ok so I paid out the door 1,673.36.. i got everything back and super excited.. new gaskets, oil pump, bearings, pistons, timing set, lifters, cam, Crank ground, 3 angle valve cut and heads resurfaced, etc.. Some strange reason i used blue to paint the block and its like the pontiac blue from the old days so history in the making.. lol Pics of everything shown and one of the 4 bad pistons.. all the same.. oh and i finally pulled the trans from the engine from the 5 speed car and boy is it dirty.. Enjoy and let me know your thoughts and what u like to know..
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild001.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild002.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild003.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild004.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild005.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild006.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild008.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild009.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild010.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPTeardown002.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPTeardown003.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPTeardown001.jpg)
ok so a little update.. assembling the engine.. taking my time and been doing it myself.. the progress from saturday and sunday.. about a total of 5 hours to get it this far..
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild017.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild012.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild013.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild014.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild011.jpg)
That blue is actually nice! Keep up the progress work!
Quote from: 89BlackTGP on April 03, 2009, 03:30:37 AM
BTW i took your advise.. :laugh:
hahahaha
got the chip from Adam yesterday... will get pics up of my updated status.. The Lim, Valve covers, Exhaust manis are on the engine.. Also awaiting the dip stick tube from the dealer and will be getting closer.. to done.. I got my new fuel lines from the dealer that go over the top of the tank to the fuel filter area so now i will be able to put the tank in and button up the under side..
well its real close.. everything is going together so well.. :icon_razz: tomorrow going to meet a guyoff craigslist with yellow top 5.0 injectors all 8 for 40 bucks so i can get this thing running this weekend.. :icon_biggrin: pics so far of my progress.. i also played around with my buffer and will end up buffing the whole car when running..
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild019.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild020.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild021.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild022.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild025.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild023.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild024.jpg)
Excellent thread! I'm going to be doing this myself soon since our 5 speed GP died yesterday.
Looking good, Nice AC delete bracket (I have the same one) :icon_mrgreen:
What product did you use for buffing the car?
I'm not a fan of the red valve covers, but to each his own. Lookin good! :thumb:
Quote from: TGP Nick on May 02, 2009, 11:58:42 AM
What product did you use for buffing the car?
With all that dust on the window, I'm guessing some sort of 3M product. Unless that dust was already there...:laugh:
Quote from: Serge A. Storms on May 01, 2009, 09:25:51 PM
Excellent thread! I'm going to be doing this myself soon since our 5 speed GP died yesterday.
That is a Awesome sig!!!! WOW!!!!!
Quote from: TGP Nick on May 02, 2009, 11:58:42 AM
What product did you use for buffing the car?
I'm not a fan of the red valve covers, but to each his own. Lookin good! :thumb:
I dont like the red valve covers either!! I am just too lazy to strip and repaint.. ill repaint the ones off my 2.8 that was in the parts car and powdercoat them..
Quote from: mfewtrail on May 02, 2009, 05:11:33 PM
With all that dust on the window, I'm guessing some sort of 3M product. Unless that dust was already there...:laugh:
Yes it is 3M.. perfect it cutting compund, perfect it 2 glazing and zymoil wax... im not sure on the names but i know what im using.. lol
OK guys well the motor is in and things are going somewhat good.. taking my time and not rushing things.. i got the motor in hooked up the rack to the subframe, hooked up most of the wiring on the bottom half of engine, clutch slave is on, shifter cables are on and hooked up.. man talk about close!!! i will be removing the DP once the car runs too wrap it b/c it will be needing that.. Saturday i found a local selling 5.0 yellow/orangeish injectors.. picked them up for $40 for all 8 so that was a steal.. i put them in before i dropped the car on the cradle.. pics as always.. :icon_wink:
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild026.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild027.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild028.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild029.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild030.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild031.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild032.jpg)
Nice keep it up! Almost there..... :-)
Looks good however........... did you check your crossover? looks like a stock one and you may as well take the time to check it out now.
Quote from: GPChief on May 05, 2009, 09:04:47 PM
Looks good however........... did you check your crossover? looks like a stock one and you may as well take the time to check it out now.
I did not check it... as you see in the pics that the shield is cut i did not do that someone else did.. No matter what im running this one until i get my spare one rebuilt.. I have the jig all set up its just cutting it and welding the new in.. Its alot easier to talk about it than do it.. but im going to get it done quick b/c when i change the x-over out i can wrap it and wrap the DP since the wrap is on order..
On the other hand i finished bleeding the brakes last night and got the fuel lines all hooked up.. today i will be getting very close as i a putting my whole night towards working on this thing..
Well got the car Done today!!! my face currently :icon_biggrin: :icon_biggrin:!! This Is the shit!!! The 5spd is the way to go... The clutch is excellent the trans shifts smooth with pennzoil syncromesh in it and the brakes are awesome.. I have a few small things to fix up the reverse lights i might have the wires reversed the brake lights dont work horns dont work and the cooling fan stays on all the time.. guage cluster no temp it shows and all lights are on on the HUD and the HUD doesnt show the MPH just all lights are lit up all the time.. Tomorrow im going to get you guys pics and videos of it where it sits as of now.. I feel relieved.!!
:peace: :cheers: :rocking: :thumb: :worshippy:
That is awesome! Congrats, the sense of accomplishment easily outweighs the frustration of the build.
Glad to hear it :thumb:
OK so heres 2 videos of the car.. right now i dont know how much boost im running i have to get a gauge put on the manifold to find out.. nothing is set at all yet just what it was at when put together.. i found out why i had no brake lights.. i forgot to plug the plug into the brake switch :icon_rolleyes:.. i have to figurre out the reverse lights, y the horns blow the fuse and get a new gauage cluster.. maybe... the temp guage doesnt work and it has a new sensor for the guage..
let me know what u think
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xzQ4hMTTtc&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pyzlPbWqZRU&feature=related
Looks and sounds good. It's a lot of work to do the 5 speed swap but it is definitely worth it. The engine spools so much quicker.. :icon_twisted: Not to mention you get more hp to the wheels.. :icon_biggrin:
i give it :thumb:
Quote from: flybynite on May 11, 2009, 05:34:56 AM
Looks and sounds good. It's a lot of work to do the 5 speed swap but it is definitely worth it. The engine spools so much quicker.. :icon_twisted: Not to mention you get more hp to the wheels.. :icon_biggrin:
Adam,
I got that MBC that u suggested to me.. I cant get over 10 PSI out of the Autometer Gauge i have.. I have turned it and made several runs to test it and no change.. how much do you have to turn it for it to change the PSI? i have turned it about 2 turns and no change.. am i doing something wrong?
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild003-1.jpg)
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/90%20TGP%20Build/TGPBuild004-1.jpg)
i have oil coming out of the oil breather.. the pic kinda shows the area where its wet.. i wiped it up before the pic.. I am also not running a hood as you can tell and there is oil all over the windshield like the blues brothers.. it sprays under boost while going into speed.. im thinking a PCV valve anyone confirm? If i find anything else out ill let ya know..
idk about pcv but I also leak oil pretty bad from my breather, I gota get a new one or try to seal it somehow
thats strange.. y would oil be coming out of the breather?? the filter is saturated in oil. hmmmm
Had a similar problem with my hybrid (3X00) build, ran a vent line to the air intake from the PCV and problem was solved.
I don't understand. But on the 3.1 the Pcv goes to the bottom of the UIM and the vent goes to the intake. I'm getting oil out of my vent filter. There's nowhere to pipe of in without modifying the charge pipes and I'm not willing to modify them any more than the BOV. I'm picking up a new pcv after work to try out. 5 bucks won't hurt if it doesn't help but it will be new.
Just thought about it it would go in the filter not charge pipes :icon_redface:.. But then oil would be in the intercooler and pipes be the turbo..ehh
Quote from: 89BlackTGP on May 11, 2009, 07:00:52 PM
Adam,
I got that MBC that u suggested to me.. I cant get over 10 PSI out of the Autometer Gauge i have.. I have turned it and made several runs to test it and no change.. how much do you have to turn it for it to change the PSI? i have turned it about 2 turns and no change.. am i doing something wrong?
Robert,
Make sure the ball and spring are seated properly. With the lock nut tight there should only be a few threads showing on the bolt at 14psi. The oil coming out of the breather is blow by or like others mentioned it could be a clogged pcv system. It is normal for a fresh engine to have blow by for up to 3k miles.. If your MBC ball and spring are seated correctly check your actuator and make sure it's functioning properly... On my TGP I have my vent connected to a fitting on my k/n filter which helps remove crankcase pressures, that will keep the rings from floating and consuming oil...
Quote from: flybynite on May 12, 2009, 05:29:51 AM
Robert,
Make sure the ball and spring are seated properly. With the lock nut tight there should only be a few threads showing on the bolt at 14psi. The oil coming out of the breather is blow by or like others mentioned it could be a clogged pcv system. It is normal for a fresh engine to have blow by for up to 3k miles.. If your MBC ball and spring are seated correctly check your actuator and make sure it's functioning properly... On my TGP I have my vent connected to a fitting on my k/n filter which helps remove crankcase pressures, that will keep the rings from floating and consuming oil...
Excellent!! Thanks again Adam!! I will investigate the MBC to make sure it's seating properly. Also I'm going to see what I can do about plumming a vent to the filter. Thanks again Adam!
Robert
Excessive Blow By or since you just rebuilt it (right?) it is still seating the rings.
You could put a catch can then a filter to help aid in the oil spewage.
Yes it is a fresh motor. That makes plety of sense now. The rings r still setting and it is building pressure in the engine. I'll have to male up a trap that will let air out but keep majority of the oil in. Thanks
(http://i42.tinypic.com/2d9ojo.jpg)
Ok.. Well got the TGP back running again.. :icon_cool: I had ordered another Boost Gauge b/c i thought that my old Gauge readings were off.. So i got my new gauges and a triple gauge pod for my air/fuel, and boost and maybe a volt? but anyway i hooked up the gauge as you can see where i tee'd it in below in the pictures.. After a big setback of the tie rod end coming off while driving and changing one end and one inner i drove the car again and snapped a pic of the gauge trying to show it how it does not go past 10... The chip is tuned to i believe 14 PSI MAX? and i have a MBC.. The dang screw is nearly screwed all the way in and still cant get boost over 10 PSI.. Besides this problem i cant figure this one out either.. I replaced the front struts and the ball joints, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, brakes, and CV's i rebuilt so its all new.. When i take off and it boosts the front end gets real tall all the sag comes out but theres barely any and the steering wheel gets loose.. Its like blown struts but i just replaced them.. Also if i just push down on the front end its not stiff like most.. It has a few bounces before stopping.. COuld i have worn springs or something? IF i push the front end down by hand like 3 times it will bounce 3 times and then stop like it just got stiff..
Im thinking here while typing.. Maybe b/c i have 94-96 GP 5 spokes 16x7 and have 245/50/16 mounted on them.. They are puckered b/c the rim isnt wide enough that maybe the tire is growing?? I can try running the stocks but really dont want to b/c they are so dry rotted the tread is coming off..
EDIT*** Also i forgot to add up above that i cranked the the BOV tight thinking it was leaking under boost but no change..
WOT Snap shot of Gauge.. Will not go past 10! GRRR
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/d144aa59.jpg)
Where i have the boost Gauge Tee'd in
(http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll380/94gpgtp/044f75b7.jpg)
why are the other ports on the vacuum uh... thingy...lol empty?
There's no EGR anymore so I don't need a vacuum supply for that so that's blocked off. Also no more purge for emissions so mo supply for vacuum for that either. That's y 2 port are blocked and 2 are being used. 1 for the FPR and MAP and the other for my boost gauge, HVAC, cruise and vacuum ball.
Slight vacuum leak anyone lol. Just kidding. Well if u figure out why your MBC only goes to 10 no matter how much you crank on it, let me know cause I have tried 3 MBC and they al do that for my car aswell.
You have them blocked of at the trottle body too?
Quote from: dogginred90 on May 21, 2009, 06:29:33 AM
You have them blocked of at the trottle body too?
just in that rubber connector.
Have what blocked off at the throttle body?
Quote from: dogginred90 on May 21, 2009, 06:28:14 AM
Slight vacuum leak anyone lol. Just kidding. Well if u figure out why your MBC only goes to 10 no matter how much you crank on it, let me know cause I have tried 3 MBC and they al do that for my car aswell.
Damn howdy partner we be floating on the same boat. LOL
Maybe the wastegate actuator is regulated to 8 psi for the stock tune or some crap. Once it hits 10 psi it opens and drops the boost level to 7-8 psi. Cuz that's what seems to happen to me. Could the wastegate actuator have anything to do with it?
The wastegate actuator is set @ 4lbs from the factory. Most likely that is your problem, the diaphragm has busted and it can't regulate boost. Since you have a MBC the computer has no control over boost. If it senses knock it will pull timing but that's it.
i knows how to fix dis problem :lol:
Well then killinprixs please tell me how to fix this issue. Even though my engine and trans are laying on hte ground I need to know, when it gets put back in.
the wastegate is opening, like Adam said its a 4# wastegate, running over 10# is more than double the load of the spring. there are ways to fix this, you can either get a 10# wastegate or add an external spring to keep it shut and put how ever many vacuum T's before the wastegate in the line that comes from the boost controller. i have notice that stock T25 will only make 12-13 psi with the wastegate unplugged and thats only down low , up top forget it.
Ok Guys been troubleshooting this thing for a few days.. This Coolant Temp Gauge issue is really getting to me :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted:.. I got a replacement Cluster thinking it could be inside the cluster causing things to not work.. NOPE that didnt solve any problems.. Now bare with me here i might get off track or not make sense but ill try my best to get it through typing it out.. In order to check for a bad coolant temp sensor you ground out the green wire thats for the coolant sensor in the engine compartment for the gauge to peg into 260 to know that your cluster is working.. well when i do that i put a ground on the green wire my jumper wire gets hot and the gauge does not move.. Now why would the wire be getting hot when grounded out? the green wire runs off of OHMS.. Well i unplugged the cluster and tested it again and the jumper got hot even with the cluster unplugged.. so i decided to test to see if im getting power through the green wire and i am when the key is on the wire has 12 volts and with the key off theres no power.. I also OHMED the green wire and it OHMED good.. The only thing i can think of is that the green wire goes to the computer and from the computer to the cluster.. and the computer is whats giving it the 12 volts when the key is on.. Am i missing a step for troubleshooting this out?? so the cluster tests out good and the sensor i have should be good.. I just dont know why i have 12 volts in this wire when the key is turned on..
Also In the Neutral safety switch plug i cant figure out the reverse lights.. With the key off i have one hot wire and with the key on there is 2 which one is the thick purple one and the other which stays hot with the key off.. So i dont know why theres a hot wire with the key off.. :icon_question:
the gauge sensor its completly different from the ECU temp sensor! You are doing the right sensor right?
Yea I'm doing the right one. Dark green single wire on the rear head. I figure is throw the ECM part in cuz I really don't know. I know the lim cts goes to the ECM. I can't firgure it out though. When grounded it gets hot because the wire has 12 volts and I'm causing a short. I would think there shouldn't be 12 Volts in the sender wire.
well been awhile since i have updated my thread.. I made a quick exhaust video but plan on doing another one with the camer further away so there is no distort.. This video i had the camera 15 feet away and zoomed it in.. LMK what you think..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMkD4kNHqA0
Quote from: 89BlackTGP on October 22, 2009, 05:09:06 PM
well been awhile since i have updated my thread.. I made a quick exhaust video but plan on doing another one with the camer further away so there is no distort.. This video i had the camera 15 feet away and zoomed it in.. LMK what you think..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMkD4kNHqA0
Sounds pretty good for catless/mufflerless. Not surprising though as these cars seem to sound about the same no matter what you throw on them. Both of mine with two different setups sound kinda the same...