I got my MBC http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=260354955447 and saw there are 2 ways to hook it up, if you scroll down a bit to the pics on it it shows it. Which way should I go, A or B on there? What is the difference really?
Refresh my memory what is the stock boost controller set at, was it 8?
What is a safe setting for it on the stock motor until I get my chip out to fly to get reprogrammed or should I just hold of on installing it until I get that done?
Option B, get your reading from the turbocharger instead of the intake manifold. The problem with getting it from the intake is that your boost can spike getting on and off the gas. I beleive the stock boost is set at 7.5 psi.
Quote from: elyturbo on April 07, 2009, 04:27:38 AM
Option B, get your reading from the turbocharger instead of the intake manifold.
Thats how I've got mine installed. 8psi will be fine with the stock tune...
no wastegate :flamingdevil:
Quote from: killinprixs on April 07, 2009, 06:29:40 PM
no wastegate :flamingdevil:
I don't think that is the best idea for some of us with bigger turbos
(http://edwardsracing.net/off_topic/turbo1.JPG)
:willy_nilly:
http://www.boostvalve.com/pricelist.html
Great product
Have it with the 2 stage solenoid. I can switch between the stock controller and the MBC with the push of a button on a tan leather Aurora shifter.
Quote from: z284pwr on April 07, 2009, 09:07:21 PM
I don't think that is the best idea for some of us with bigger turbos
:willy_nilly:
haha yea maybe not for you, im runnin a hybrid turbo which will make 15-16 # so im not too worried. BTW is your car red? I might have been following that on wbody maybe?
Yeah it is
http://www.edwardsracing.net/off_topic/tgp-043.jpg
Before we finished installing the Haltech and had the turbo in.
http://www.edwardsracing.net/off_topic/turbo2.JPG
that looks awsome, you got any videos of that beast yet?
Quote from: killinprixs on April 09, 2009, 04:24:54 PM
that looks awsome, you got any videos of that beast yet?
Unfortunately no, at this time I don't, and it appears we don't for some time either. We pulled the top end apart and found this....needless to say it'll be down for awhile as our friend's machine shop burned down in January so we need to get with him on what to do
http://www.edwardsracing.net/off_topic/cam/Lifters1.jpg
http://www.edwardsracing.net/off_topic/cam/Lifters2.jpg
http://www.edwardsracing.net/off_topic/cam/Lifters3.jpg
http://www.edwardsracing.net/off_topic/cam/Lifters4.jpg
http://www.edwardsracing.net/off_topic/cam/Lifters5.jpg
Brian,
Why do you need a machine shop to replace your lifters?
And for everyone out there I have seen this car in person and it is flawless!!
Quote from: GPChief on April 11, 2009, 10:38:27 PM
Brian,
Why do you need a machine shop to replace your lifters?
And for everyone out there I have seen this car in person and it is flawless!!
We don't need a machine shop to replace lifters, we need a machine shop to clean all the parts. 9 cam lobes equals a ton of metal shavings all throughout the engine. We will go talk to the engine builder friend soon and see what he thinks, he has access to cleaning tanks so we should be okay. I'm really wanting to try what Jud did and put a roller cam in it and custom modding the lifters to work right.
I've got the H260 cam with roller lifters & roller rockers, roller timing chain. No issues yet. Made my ouw cam squirter, similar to Juds but it squirts on on all lobes. Will look for a picture later.
Quote from: GPChief on April 12, 2009, 10:33:04 AM
I've got the H260 cam with roller lifters & roller rockers, roller timing chain. No issues yet. Made my ouw cam squirter, similar to Juds but it squirts on on all lobes. Will look for a picture later.
What did you do to get the cam to stay put, a cam button? what about the lifters, what did you do to prevent them from spinning? Are they just 3400 lifters or what did you do there or are they mechanical rollers? Id be interested in any info you have.
Cam button (using TGP block) didnt do anything to the lifters to get them to stay. With reviewing my pictures it looks like I used the HYD lifters. (its been two years since I built it - swore I used the roller lifters) Haven't had any problems yet, 500 plus miles on the motor.
are those little slices on top of the line i see? i'd be interested in this. any more info?
Those were my marking points for my home made cam squirter. Small .005 holes to start with getting bigger as they move further away. Originally tried the same size hole for all of them but the oil pressure would not push the oil to the end of the tube.
Melling HD (modified - different spring and polished) Oil pump.
Quote from: GPChief on April 13, 2009, 03:38:44 PM
Those were my marking points for my home made cam squirter. Small .005 holes to start with getting bigger as they move further away. Originally tried the same size hole for all of them but the oil pressure would not push the oil to the end of the tube.
Melling HD (modified - different spring and polished) Oil pump.
So is it basically just a metal line bent to squirt into the holes between lifters to hit the cam or did i not inspect enough. Oh and those are flat tappet lifters. Roller lifters require creating a device to prevent the lifters from rotating in the lifter valley if I remember correctly. I know Jud's setup had a coat hanging and some springs. I forget what else was required.
Quote from: z284pwr on April 13, 2009, 03:49:57 PM
So is it basically just a metal line bent to squirt into the holes between lifters to hit the cam or did i not inspect enough. Oh and those are flat tappet lifters. Roller lifters require creating a device to prevent the lifters from rotating in the lifter valley if I remember correctly. I know Jud's setup had a coat hanging and some springs. I forget what else was required.
I forget why we decided not to go with the roller lifter but there was a good reason at the time :icon_rolleyes:.
The metal line is a BRAKE line flared on one end where we taped into an open oil passage. I just used a tube bender and it squirts onto the cam lobes. It was cut to length and caped off. When we primed the engine it worked awesome. Once it is done breaking in and I switch to Amsoil it should do even better.
Quote from: GPChief on April 13, 2009, 06:30:24 PM
I forget why we decided not to go with the roller lifter but there was a good reason at the time :icon_rolleyes:.
The metal line is a BRAKE line flared on one end where we taped into an open oil passage. I just used a tube bender and it squirts onto the cam lobes. It was cut to length and caped off. When we primed the engine it worked awesome. Once it is done breaking in and I switch to Amsoil it should do even better.
Does it do as I described or in a different method? We may have to do something similar especially knowing the issues with the what 9 and 10 lobes that tend to go bad on the engines. I would also assume you went bigger the farther back it goes because the oiling becomes worse and worse.
How big is the largest hole do you remember?
Its been a few years (and trips to Iraq) since I built the motor. I remember we used a .005 (smallest in the drill bit set and did 1/3, then used the next size for the next 1/3, the the next size up for the final 1/3. The oil flowed pretty well while being primed.
It squirts the oil onto the cam lobes.
Another option is to get your cam cyro treated (read hardnened) or coated with a coating to further its wear. here are some links :icon_cool:.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/engine-tech/270581-frozen-engine-parts.html
http://www.300below.com/site/turbomag.html
http://www.modified.com/projectcars/9909scc_project_nissan_300zx_part_4/index.html
Got another question, I still haven't put it in yet, I was actually gona do it this weekend probably after I pick up a boost gauge and air/fuel gauge. Is there going to be a problem with disconnecting the factory harness on the stock controller or does that wiring harness on there only send info to my gauge clusters boost gauge?
the crappy boost guage gets its signal from the map sensor.
Quote from: killinprixs on May 11, 2009, 01:48:36 PM
the crappy boost guage gets its signal from the map sensor.
so it not being hooked up won't hurt anything? Where does the gauge cluster get it's reading from? Where do I tap off of for my aftermarket boost gauge
the guage cluster gets its reading from the map sensor. Most guys T off the map sensor for aftermarket boost gauge.
thanx