Hi all Ok so here is what I have done so far, ohmed outed the injectors and they read 12.1. I have put a new fuel pressure regulator, new fuel pump, new fuel filter, AcDelco 02 sensor, replaced two bad injectors that read 9.7, scanned the computer with no error codes, replaced spark plugs with bosch supergold, new wire set, new pcv, crossover patched, new wheel bearing hubs, Non-abs brake system, fixed all the vacuum leaks in the harness, seems like the car doesnt want to shift without letting off the gas, also at high speeds at WOT the car seems to lose power, If i let off the gas it seems to pick up more speed, or if i ease into the throttle it still struggles to pick up speed
Bosch plugs could be the problem, These cars really like the stock plugs. BTW what is the gap on the plugs..
First try around
I gapped all 6 to .45, then went back and only got to changing the front 3 plugs to .30 the back three plugs are at .45, i rearranged the order of the fuel injectors so that the stock three injectors are on the front and one gpsorresen injector one yellow top and one stock injector on the back three, fuel pressure gauge is at 42 lbs while starting and while running has 34 lbs of pressure and it rises to about 44 when revin it up
Are you still running those larger injectors that you mentioned in your thread over at the w-body board?
Gap those back 3 to .30 please. Trust me, I had that issue for 1 year till someone told me to gap them to .30. My car had the same issue and once they were gapped right the car ran great till I had a weak coil. Good luck and about your tranny shifting weird. Do you have a check valve "T" at the modulator valve?
.028 - .030 is a good gap range
No I sold the 24 lbs vemons but my stock ones back in it, just cant afford a chip right now tryn to save for the yellowtops, there is no check valve on the trans vac mod, ill try to gap the back three maybe later today and see what happens, thanks guys
someone please get him a pic of the check valve and what way it gets hooked up.... you're boosting the transmission vacuum modulator, that is why it doesnt want to shift, it needs vacuum to shift.
Not only do these cars not like other plugs, they freaking HATE bosch plugs, those things are the biggest POS plugs. Toss them in the trash and get some AC delcos, even rapidfires if you seem to think you must have somthing other than stock
Should look just like this:
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j195/blackswift99/My%20TGP%20Projects/MyTGP001-1.jpg)
For what it's worth, I'm having the exact same runability problem with my TGP and haven't been able to figure it out
You can also try different coils. I had one that had weak spark and at WOT it would hestitate, changed a coil and all is well.
I regapped the back three plugs runs a little bit better but still the same symptoms mostly
definitely think that the vacuum line from the TB to my trans vac modulator doesnt have that valve there also cruise control crapped out on me about a year ago
If you dont have that "T" go to your local parts store and get one. It is in the HELP section. (it should be the only check T there). Larger port is the one u should leave open. Just lok at Nicks pic, he knows about this little bugger pretty well. Next adjust your TV cable at the back of the intake. Push the square buton and psh the cable back in. Then go inside and push the gas pedal slowly the whole way to the floor. You should hear a clicking sound(that will let u know it is adjusting. Next lets move on to the dying issue. I am still thinking weak coil, but lets clean the IAC sensor. Is your TPS adjustable? If so make sure your screw head is centered with the slot. UMMM also what kind of wires you have(NEW or OLD)? TGP's eat wires for breakfast LOL. Like everyone will tell you GO AC DELCO for plugs and OEM for coils. Trust them they know what they are saying. I fought this for a long time and finally took their advice and am enjoying it(besides my tranny is junk). GOOD LUCK and keep us updated.
Shawn
That little check valve for the transmission is HELP! #47150 by the way. I'd grab a couple, as I've gone through a few between them breaking, melting, etc.. there is another check valve just like this by your cruise control that gets close to the exhaust and may melt... I've encountered that issue as well on other GPs, turbo and n/a.
Quote from: PhatMpk on November 06, 2009, 10:45:24 PM
I regapped the back three plugs runs a little bit better but still the same symptoms mostly
Sooooo you regapped those Junk plugs, lol
ya didnt see the thread till last night :/
reset the computer, now my boost gauge is more accurate than it was when it wants to work, engine runs fine at low speeds, when im in forth gear on the freeway the engine is really knocking real bad, 1-2-3 gears still wants to really struggle to gain power after 3,000 rpms, when let it idle, my lights get kinda dim at night especially when the fan kicks on, the lights brighten up when i gain some speed, it seems to want to run a little better after i unhooked my 4,000 watt stereo going to try a different coil pack I have new Bosch wireset might also put some ac delco plugs in cause there are bosch goldplus in my car plugs damn 1 autozones recommend previous owner replaced the alternator
car alarm started going crazy, locking unlocking my doors, cleaned up the ground for the power antenna, cars seems to runs a lil better knock on wood
Installed that check valve on the vac modulator today, also found that maybe one of my spark plug wires came loose from one of the coils, but it was caked with die electric grease , runs perfect now on top end, shifts better than it ever has 5,500 rpms, engine still wobbles when i ease on the throttle in 4th gear thinking this must just be my upper motor mounts goin bad again :icon_rolleyes:
You mean it seems like it shudders? in 4th gear that would probably mean your in (or tying to go into) torque converter lock up, wich when the converters going bad, it shudders when trying to lock up. Dr. Tranny has a little packet of stuff called shudder fix thats suppose to work really well for that.
I swapped my top braces for the upper motor mounts, seems to not shudder while at WOT, it does shudder when I go into forth gear slowly, if i go into it faster seems to be ok, is that stuff safe to put in our old cars? I had my tranny flushed at 100,000, odo is 138,000 now, do i wait awhile then put that stuff in before a flush?
Have a new acdelco coil pack that needs to be installed as well as a tube of doctor tranny instant shudder fixx
does any one have a pic of where the cruise control cable is please?
ok symptoms are coming back a little bit, the spark seems to break up at high rpms again, not nearly as bad as before, especially when im in forth gear just ideling down the freeway, seems to get worse the lower the tank is on gas, I reused the old fuel pump pulsator when i replaced my fuel pump and used the new larger O-ring for the fuel tank lid that came with the pump, seems to hold presssure ok whenever i go to fill it up pressure does release only after running it for while, I have one new coil pack that im going to try and doctor tranny instant shudder fix
If your coils are good, your plugs and wires are good also, then check your Ignition Control Module (ICM).
replaced all six plugs with acdelco .45 gap and it doesnt run on the freeway again, I unhooked my stereo, and if I ease on the throttle it will take off, If I put it to the floor seems to flood imediately, would a low battery cause this as well? My battery dies ike twice a year when im running my 4,000 watt audiobahn set up
Possibly, have you done the "Big 3 wiring" upgrade. Sounds like you aren't getting enough voltage to your ecm and sensors.
prolly going to gap the plugs to .30, then try to figure out how to change these coils packs, if all else fail ICM, maybe a low battery would cause this as it dies about twice a year
Quote from: PhatMpk on December 12, 2009, 09:00:42 PM
maybe a low battery would cause this as it dies about twice a year
Bad grounds!!
Checked all my ground wires and positive to alt is ok, can any1 please walk me through removing the coil packs and the ICM? There seems to be a pack of wires running right in front of the bottom bolts on the coil packs, cant seem to reach a socket to them
any threads on these?
With engine cool; For a first timer, I suggest removing the fans and using a mirror. See what you are working with. Three bolts, 13mm. Unplug the ignition module three plug harnesses. Then take some take and write down the order on how the plugs are. You can just do
Coolant Reservoir <- Left "A" "B" "C" "D" "E" "F" Right -> Battery
Once you remove the harnesses, plug boots, and three bolts, the whole assembly will fall off engine. Take that bottom bolt, screw it back into the block. Take the bracket over to a grinder and "n" "slot" the hole (aka make it open on the lower most part) . Take a 5.5mm socket, remove the SIX coil bolts. The whole assemble is disassembled. Replace the parts.
Now the install is easier. Assemble everything on to the bracket. Slide the slotted hole of the bracket on to that bolt that is loosely screwed into the block. Now start in the other two bolts. Torque them down. I think 18ft/lbs is the spec, but I usually go by judgment since I work with handtools often.
Install the harnesses, and snap on the plug boots in the order you removed them.
Start car and go to store for your choice beverage. Pat your head and rub your stomach simultaneously.
Quote from: TGed on December 13, 2009, 12:36:43 AM
Pat your head and rub your stomach simultaneously.
Impossible
I can do it, it's not impossible!
lol it works better if you start rubing first then add the pat ;)
What order do the spark plug wires go on to the coil packs on pontiac grand prix gt V6?
In: Spark Plugs and Wires, Grand Prix SE [Edit categories]
Answer
Looking at the coil-packs directly in front of you, it goes...
1,4 6,3 2,5... (left to right)...
1,3,5,plugs are in the back very close to the firewall.
2,4,6, are the front plugs closest to the radiator and fans.
Don't forget!!! If you are changing the plugs or wires make sure to dis-engage the upper motor mounts (dog bones) and tilt the engine forward .carefully, secure it. Its a whole lot easier to get at the back plugs and wires
It cuts your tune-up time in half.
Good Luck,
Mrkhh.
is this the same order for tgp??
Yep, that's the correct TGP order.
still struggles like in these here
In these 3 videos it shows a little bit better view of how it struggles between 4 and 5k rpms.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ic32CLLSuU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wS4PlYfJa4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lV4btmnvb38
seemed to run better with bosch goldplus gapped to .30 would start good, idle, good and would run all the way to fourth gear then would seem to lose power while accelerating at about 50-55
put acdelco plugs in at .45, ran like in the video, hooked my stereo up with capacitor, can symtpoms seemed to disappear, took in on 1 hour trip , the next day ran just like in the video
regapped the acdelco plugs to .30 with no improvement :icon_confused: :icon_mad:
now starts good idles good, runs good only up to 3,000
sounds like something is restricted OR doesnt seem like its making very much boost at all, boost guage looks like 4 psi. engine doesnt seem to run bad its just taking in the boost faster than its making it. just a thought.
when I had the bosch gapped .030 car would rev good up to 5-6k boost would read +14, just a lil miss in fourth gear
now if I floor it just downshift knocks really hard and boost doesnt go above +4
OK so you finally have the Delco plugs in, on a stock tune id run the gap a litte smaller than that .038-.040 at least. Now this might be seem like a stupid question but how old are the plug wires ? They go bad all the time so if they arent new i would change them, and like GPChief said, if the plugs are wires are new, i would then check the coil packs, i doubt its the ICM because they usually either work or they dont. Also keep in mind that just because the injectors ohm out , DOES NOT mean they are working right.
plug wires were replaced this year with bosch
7mm ? if so they burn right up, may work for 2-3 months but the misfiring will come back eventually, get like accel 8mm or MSD wires.
also like i said if your positive its not the plugs/wires/coils/sensors/fuel pump/regulator/filter the only thing left is the injectors, seeing how you already replaced 2 others might be bad. I just replaced a set of injectors that were brand new only put on 2000 miles with them, had bad missfiring and boost problems, all injectors TESTED good but as soon as i changed them, all problems went away and car ran perfectly normal again. Even tho the injectors were new, one prematurely malfunctioned and the car ran like ass. I was chasing everything on that dam car until i had no other choice than to replace them ALL. Just goes to show when you ohm injectors it doesnt mean that they are physically working. Everythig else checked out like , compression perfect, fuel pressure 40#+, brand new ignition components, all sensors new, swaped ECM/ chips, fuel regulator.
Quote from: PhatMpk on December 21, 2009, 10:20:50 PM
plug wires were replaced this year with bosch
Pop the hood at night and check your plug wires for arcing. In my experience the Bosch plug wires break down pretty quickly. This might not be the problem in your case...but it wouldn't hurt to check. Those bosch's like to tear apart when removing them to change plugs too. :icon_mrgreen:
just took a look everything is dark as can be, no sparks jumping anywhere I can see, 7mm wires, maybe injectors are going bad as there are four original ones, 1 yellowtop, and 1 gp sorensen, I have the front three injectors stock, and the back three are 1 stock 1 yellowtop, n 1 gp, boost guauge seems to show +13 now but struggles above 3k, all the sensors seem to be working correctly except my oil pressure sending unit doesnt seem to be working as the guauge on the dash shows the pressure needle all the way up
cant seem to find a supplier for those yellowtop injectors five-0-motorsport has sets of bosch 19lbs injectors now as everthing else bosch is crappin out on me would these too?, can I just pull some from pick-n-pull from mustang 5.0? Would normal 3.1 gp injectors work on our tgps?
Quote from: PhatMpk on December 22, 2009, 12:24:19 AM
cant seem to find a supplier for those yellowtop injectors five-0-motorsport has sets of bosch 19lbs injectors now as everthing else bosch is crappin out on me would these too?, can I just pull some from pick-n-pull from mustang 5.0? Would normal 3.1 gp injectors work on our tgps?
The yellow tops are made by Bosch. Bosch products are no where near as bad as some people think they are. What I said about the plug wires applies to pretty much any of the cheaper made part store plug wires regardless of brand. The most common issue I see with the cheap sets are them pulling apart after being removed a few times. Normal 3.1 injectors are 16.7lbs vs. our stock 22lb injectors, so they're too small. The Ford 19lb injectors flow more than what they're rated for and are pretty much equivalent to our stock injectors. I wouldn't use injectors from a junkyard vehicle
unless you send them off to have them cleaned + flow tested first...otherwise, you might end up with yet another problem to troubleshoot related to the injectors you just installed. There are usually new or reconditioned sets on ebay. Cleaning + flow testing is usually about $90-100ish for a set of 6 injectors.
Here's a set on ebay that's supposedly reconditioned and carries a lifetime warranty for $67ish shipped. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/19-LB-19LB-DESIGN-II-FUEL-INJECTORS-FORD-MUSTANG_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3358808b4dQQitemZ220528151373QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
If you want brand new, sprayitracing.com has some Denso 19lb yellow tops for $162.
http://www.sprayitracing.com/19lb%20Denso%20EV1%20High%20Impedance.htm
thanks a ton Matt
The "yellow Top" Bosch are what at least 1/4 of us run are are superior to stock. TGPilot may still have some yellow tops, he had a bunch before...make the switch to ALL Yellow tops and many problems will go away.
ok I ordered the set of reconditioned ones from ebay, prolly take a week or so for them to get here will update then thanks all
injectors arrived today they look their in pretty good condition installing as we speak...
installed the injectors no improvement still the same.. pulled one plug looked to be black the tip white as can be on the porcelin could my Map sensor have gone bad??
If it did, I think your boost gauge wouldn't read.
Don't be offended but:
Are you using premium gas?
Do you have the factory crossover pipe?
Does your boost read correctly on a scan tool? If not, then it could be a map sensor. If it reads right, check your crossover for leaks as it is a common problem at the flex bellows. You will need to pop off the shields that wrap around it to see carbon leak traces and blown fiber packing.
Check CTS for proper resistance and check to make sure you don't have any cracks in the upper and lower intake manifolds as it is EASY to crack if you don't seat it properly when servicing.
HTH
Replaced all the gaskets i could fine on this car with brand new ones, I ran premium gas in almost always, i have premium in it now, crossover pipe was severly damaged at the flange a couple years ago, we had it repaired at that time where they welded everything nice n air tight, doesnt seem to have any exhaust leak, starts good revs awesome to 3k while in neutral or paark, idles not so great but it doesnt die while idleing, put it in drive n idle slows a lil runs like crap whenever you put your foot in it, boost gauge seems to be reading correctly when i boost it just doesnt want to go
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LN9PrMbp95M
WOT :(
Is the cat converter clogged? Does it glow after running it for a while?
im not sure i can check it later tonight to see if its glowing in the dark
acceleration is surging really bad now
instead of boosting its knockin real bad and wont go
heres more basically cold start to one short trip
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ElVeVDZaMSw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxh8P_gu0pI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jNJB06yQRY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGBNF-54ufA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vAAJ90lnTY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ithmlMy33R8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0FgU-oag6WY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoG0S9n_bBA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ovswa9vGNqM
last one hard knock doesnt want to go
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LN9PrMbp95M
Bad fuel pump? Whats the fuel pressure at with KOEO and KOER?
fuel pump has been replaced with a brand new one i used the seal provided as the stock one became brittle as broke apart with it for the tank lock, fuel pressure was 34lbs while idleing rev it up goes to 42
gauge is accurate starts 44 lbs when the key is turned, 34 lbs while idling, and rises in conjunction with the throttle to about 42lbs at 3,000
Before modifiying anything We put a fuel pressure gauge onto the fuel rail, and it was running 42 lbs. of pressure while starting. While running it would drop down to about 34 lbs of pressure, and after shutting the car off the pressure would drop straight to zero. We replaced the fuel pressure regulator, and it would start and hold pressure fine, but when I would run it over 3,000 rpms it would start to bog out instead of giving more power
Replaced the fuel filter, and the following day it would still have the same symptoms, the fuel is getting starved from the low fuel pressure that the pump it pushing. Removed the fuel lines from the fuel sending unit and there was no pressure at all, so now im replacing the fuel pump and strainer which is done now its much harder putting all the lines back on than there was taking off always fun spent about 4-hours so far
Put the computer scanner back on today, no error codes, fuel pressure gauge is at 42 lbs while starting and while running has 34 lbs of pressure, still hesitates really bad at intersections, doesnt want to run at high speeds
so the fuel pressure was the same now as it was before I replaced the fuel pump
only borrowed the gauge so I dont have one at the moment to test once again
here the w-body threads
1
http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=77060.0
2
http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=81857.0
maybe this can help a lil
I reused the old fuel pump pulsator when replacing with the new pump maybe this is leaking and maybe my old pump really wasnt bad is it normal for the fuel pressure to be at 34 lbs, while idleing in park
From what the books tells me, it says. 41-47 psi for KOEO test line off. It should hold that pressure for atleast 2 hours dropping no more than 1-3 psi per 2 hours.
I had just replaced the fuel pressure regulator , before KOEO 42 psi, KOEO 34 psi , turn key off all fuel pressure would instantly drop 0
now KOEO 42 psi, KOEO 34 psi, KOEO with a lil rev at would rise to 40-42 psi
On my TGP, the Pulsator in the tank got all gapped out and let all the pressure bleed off and make it run odd. Also, the pump SHOULD put out 40 psi when running or just key on engine off. I couldnt even get my TGPs fuel pressure below 42psi. Sounds like the wrong pump, its easy to put a normal pump in.
Almost positive the pulsator was bad to begin with not my fuel pump because pressure was the same right as soon as it startin runnin shitty before i replaced the pump, after that used the old pulsator, it must be leakin because the pressure regulator is brand new, no gas in the vacuum line, holds
The pump was one of these two cant remember what harness code mine is but i did put the correct coded one in because I removed the old pump first got the code from the harness plug bought the right one then replaced
Airtex Master / Fuel Pum
For your 1990 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.1L FI Turbo 6cyl
Part Number: E3265
Weight: 0.8 lbs
Warranty: 1 YR
Notes: With harness code "WAA" or "WEK" ***Caution*** A fuel pump is more likely to fail if installed without a new strainer and filter. Warranty valid only if strainer is replaced at the same time as the fuel pump. Drop fuel tank and clean before replacing fuel pump.
Fitting Size: Outlet - 5/16 in.
Fitting Type: Inlet - filter, outlet - hose connection
Gallons Per Hour: 40
Pressure Rating: 65-95 psi
Shipping Information: Overnight and Two Day shipping are not available for PO Box, APO/FPO/DPO or US Territory addresses.
Part Number: E3210
Weight: 0.9 lbs
Warranty: 1 YR
Notes: With harness code "WEG" or "WES" ***Caution*** a fuel pump is more likely to fail if installed without a new strainer and filter. Warranty valid only if strainer is replaced at the same time as the fuel pump. Drop fuel tank and clean before replacing fuel pump.
Fitting Size: Outlet - 5/16 in.
Fitting Type: Inlet - filter, outlet - hose connection
Gallons Per Hour: 40
Pressure Rating: 65-95 psi
Shipping Information: Overnight and Two Day shipping are not available for PO Box, APO/FPO/DPO or US Territory addresses.
when i put in my 255lph pump in i didnt use the pulsator.... can anyone confirm this pulsator does anything? If not you could just bypass it with FI grade hose.
Quote from: PhatMpk on December 29, 2009, 04:29:47 PM
I had just replaced the fuel pressure regulator , before KOEO 42 psi, KOEO 34 psi , turn key off all fuel pressure would instantly drop 0
now KOEO 42 psi, KOEO 34 psi, KOEO with a lil rev at would rise to 40-42 psi
I told you in the other thread your KOEO pressure looked ok, but running pressure was low. Does it still drop quickly when you shut off the car or does it hold now? Pressure should hold for a while after shutting off the car. If it bleeds off quickly, you have something leaking down. Usually, you'll have a bit of a hard start with a leaking pulsator....but if the leak is very small, it might start normally but just have low pressure.
Here's a quote from me about fuel pressure drop acceptable rates:
QuoteThe general rule of thumb is that the pressure should not drop off more than 5psi in a 10 minute time period.
Quote from: killinprixs on December 29, 2009, 08:25:32 PM
when i put in my 255lph pump in i didnt use the pulsator.... can anyone confirm this pulsator does anything? If not you could just bypass it with FI grade hose.
The pulsator is there to dampen vibrations/pulses from the pumping operation/action of the pump. It basically cancels out noise. If you used the supplied fuel grade hose instead of the pulsator, you might notice a bit more fuel pump noise. The little circular object on the fuel line just before the fuel rail supposed to serve the same purpose. A lot of people use the hose instead of the pulsator. AC Delco Pulsators used to be available from part stores(autozone) a few years ago if you do choose to run one.
yes thanks man i noticed it but didnt really think of it going to bypass it prolly this coming week, fuel pressure holds fine at 42-40 in the rail when key off doesnt bleed quickly
great info , thanks Matt!
good luck man, at least you have those new injectors in there so when you finally fix the problem she should be running like new again. Good to see another TGP owner with patience anyway.
Quote from: killinprixs on December 29, 2009, 11:05:10 PM
Good to see another TGP owner with patience anyway.
Patience is a virtue thats for sure!
I can't believe my car even ran when I put it back together! Ive been working bugs out since march and the cars still not 100%
Plug wires seem to go fast! :laugh: 3rd set now
ordered my OWN fuel pressure gauge kit, comes with fuel grade hose and clamps as well needed to bypass, need to get the jack stands back from my dads friend, he is out of town at the moment so prolly get to droppin the tank in the next couple weeks
friend threw out maybe the new fuel pressure regulator is out of spec, its looks like its a universal regulator Gp-Sorensen Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator Part # 800-218
fits these makes cant seem to find any other specs
what brand do you guys use to replace the regulator?
Make Model Year
BUICK CENTURY SEDAN / COUPE 89-87
BUICK REGAL SEDAN / COUPE 93-88
CADILLAC CIMARRON 88-87
CHEVROLET BERETTA 93-87
CHEVROLET CAVALIER 94-87
CHEVROLET CELEBRITY 90-87
CHEVROLET CORSICA 93-87
CHEVROLET LUMINA 94-90
OLDSMOBILE CIERA / CUTLASS CIERA 89-87
OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS / CUTLASS SUPREME 93-88
OLDSMOBILE FIRENZA 87
PONTIAC 6000 91-87
PONTIAC GRAND PRIX 93-88
PONTIAC SUNBIRD 94-91
PONTIAC TEMPEST 91-87
IIRC they are all the same. I had replaced mine 4/5 years ago with a stock one with no issues. make sure you replace the "o" rings.
Yea i learned that one the hard way, replaced every o ring on the injectors and the fuel rails/ regulator, thanks all for the info
Just put a autoxray 5000 on the diagnostics throws the code 13 oxygen sensor failure
Dropped the tank yesterday bypassed the fuel pump pulsator, and it still doesnt want to run right. It will buck whenever its over 1/2 throttle, then will boost up ok, going up a hill it will buck really hard and downshift instead of wanting to boost faster, still stumped guys idles really rough now starting to get a downshift clunk 2-1, hesitates/bucks while accelerating
Quote from: PhatMpk on January 29, 2010, 12:12:54 AM
Just put a autoxray 5000 on the diagnostics throws the code 13 oxygen sensor failure
Have you tried a new GM o2 sensor
yes it has been replaced 4 times since 92k, had a bosch in it and swapped it with acdelco not even a month or two ago 134k now
tested all three front coil packs each one sparks with a orange glow , i recently replaced my o2 with a bosch early last year then late last year with a acdelco maybe two months old now, scanned the computer again with the scanner and it didnt show any codes
Quote from: PhatMpk on January 31, 2010, 06:50:14 PM
tested all three front coil packs each one sparks with a orange glow
There's your problem! Need to have a strong blue spark out of each.
yes i have one brand new acdelco coil pack layin around here just need two more i guess i tested the front three plug wires by testing each one at a time by clamping the spare plug into the wire then clamped to a bolt by the threads on the frame with vice grips and watched each plug glowed orange spark
Re: TGP Vids
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driving down the road today, engine kills and wont start on the middle on a bridge! Almost got hit by a passing mercedes trying to put gas in my tank thinking i had ran out of gas. Luckily saw them at the last second. Tested the fuel rail , and 0 psi is there looks like my band aid bypass on the fuel pump didnt hold the pressure icon_mad had to tow it back about a mile at which point we tied a rope to the frame of each car and as we pulled out of the first turn the rope lost tension and got stuck under the front tire of my car blocking all the lanes of traffic what a nightmare
ok turning things around to back where i started, Dropped the tank, pulled the fuel pump, hose that was given to me was not fuel grade like a asked for, very spongy after soaking in all the gas popped right off the fuel pump, bought new fuel pump pulsator installed, running now, for the downshift clunk n hard shifting, the air check valve on the trans modulator went bad and was stuck closed, removed it for now as i am in need of a new one, idles really bad, hesitates on acceleration, still keeps hitin the torque converter in fourth gear always wanting to drop back in 3 gear on the freeway, or if it does shift into fourth, loses speed, shudders really bad, then downshifts again to 3rd
waiting on the icm/coils in the mail
Yea same things up with my TGP, stupid hose came off in the tank. I cant get a new pulsator to go onto either my pump or hanger. Its just too tight, lol.
just checked my fuel pressure with new gauge leaks a lil gas at the gauge, turn the key reads 40, start the engine reads 40 at idle, 44 with a lil rev, still missing really bad
Yes something is definitely wrong as my battery seems to only stay charged just enough to stay running 12.5v, I have gone through like 7 batteries so far every time I bring them back to kragen they put my battery on a charger and its fails to charge correctly they send me home with a new battery that doesn't last very long before it seems like the lights get dimmer, changed the battery today but still no improvement the previous owner told me he just replaced the alternator at 92k
its like the miss is intermittent when it starts up it is doing its normal cycle now, revs to 2k then comes to 1k as soon as is hits 1k the missing starts, the missing and hesitating varies on each run, I was lookin at those wires yesterday the ground the mounts up right near the intercooler really inspecting this car it has been in California all its life except 1 year in the Minnesota weather and really has 0 rust on it anywhere, grease is all over the place tho from the river of oil that was coming from the oil pump driveshaft, everything seems ok is there anyway to test with a volt/ohm meter
the used set of fuel injectors I have are part # F0TE-D5A can any1 pls confirm these are the correct injectors
part#0-280-150-943
Quote from: PhatMpk on February 09, 2010, 09:24:15 PM
the used set of fuel injectors I have are part # F0TE-D5A can any1 pls confirm these are the correct injectors
part#0-280-150-943
Those are the correct Ford "19lb" size.
just wondering, the other yellow top that was already in here is part #F2TE-A3A?
Quote from: PhatMpk on February 12, 2010, 05:42:13 PM
just wondering, the other yellow top that was already in here is part #F2TE-A3A?
19lb's also.
OMFG I love you guys!! Thanks to TGed coils and known good icm, two known good used coil pack plus one brand new coil pack , and she is back to new , no more missing, no more hesitating, hauls ass on the freeway again :icon_lol:, back to boosting instead of clunking, so happy FIXED.
Glad to hear it man :thumb:
Quote from: TGP Nick on February 13, 2010, 05:53:10 PM
Glad to hear it man :thumb:
Awesome! Now did you,
QuoteStart car and go to store for your choice beverage. Pat your head and rub your stomach simultaneously.
? :icon_mrgreen:
lol yes sweet tea from mcdonalds it was the best dollar spent mm awesome will put new more 2 new coils when i get the time running great atm
found a lil drip of tranny fluid coming from underneath somewhere cant see exactly where its coming from prolly just need a new gasket for the tranny case
Been chasing this list of parts on my baby, she is running the best it has ever since i bought the car originally from a Stanford student who needed some extra cash with only a bad oxygen sensor :icon_lol: for $1800 back in 2006 with only 92k replaced the 02 and it ran good for a year or so. Found the check valve for the cruise control replaced it as it was melted, still the cruise control does not and as not worked for three years now :dunno:
Parts:
new fuel pump 65-95psi
new strainer
new fuel filter
new fuel pump pulsator
new fuel pressure regulator
new 02
new plugs
new wires
new + used good coils packs
used good icm
new tires
new rear shocks
new wheel bearing front hubs
K & N oil filter
Spectre Air Filter
New PCV
Reconditioned Used Set of 22lbs Injectors
Fixed Vacuum Air Check Valves
New alternator
New Serpentine Belt
Used Crossover, original one but has been repaired
unfortunately i just recently went a on a trip to Minnesota and brought my digital camera dropped it out of my friends car and when we returned we ran the camera over :icon_lol: :icon_rolleyes: so i can add some vids but the screen is broke so im just kinda guessing what im shooting
Awesome! Gotta love a tip top running car. 8)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=POhV11Jec1s
Been very hard starting lately when I go to start the car its not holding fuel pressure, I replaced the fuel pressure regulator again no difference, no leaking injectors, have to crank it over at least three times before it starts. I just recently replaced the fuel pump pulsator and fuel pump and I tried to bypass the pulsator but the hose came lose from the fuel pump so i put a new pulsator in now it feels like its leaking once again
yea i had no such luck with my pulsator or just hose. Make sure its submergable FI hose, and u MUST use the smooth special fuel injection hose clamps, the regular clamps will just cut into the hose and cause a leak. Iv had my TGPs tank out 4 times now for this same bullshit
Awesome dropped the tank again today to find one line was leaking and the pulsator came off the fuel pump end :icon_evil:, I replaced the pulsator with 500psi FI grade hade and two FI hose clamps running and starting like it should :icon_cool:
(http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=430201&id=1671444949)
(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn192/PhatMpk08/pump.jpg)
Sounds like you guys have the worst luck w/ fuel pumps/hoses/pulsators. ;) I used an ac delco pump + pulsator when I swapped out the pump in my 1993 Grand Prix 5 or so years ago, haven't had any problems out of it.
hey guys i have a question where does this T the comes from the vac modulator suppose to go to the right of it leads no where??my bad it the cruise unit its highlighted with my flashlight in this vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_e2X5Lxr5c
im not sure if this is hooked up the right way either? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ScUEt5n-Wf0
Here's a vacuum diagram for you that shows how those check valves + lines go.
(http://home.windstream.net/mfewtrail/images/vacdiagram.jpg)
thanks
(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn192/PhatMpk08/Picture015.jpg)
(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn192/PhatMpk08/Picture018.jpg)
(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn192/PhatMpk08/Picture034.jpg)
Brutal man. That looks exactly like what I did to my 85 IROC 11 years ago. Sorry man. :icon_sad:
it still runs good right now the back bumper of this asian lady went over the top of my bumper while I was switching lanes coming over the top of a hill green light at the intercetion looked up and there was am ambulance everyone locked up the brakes ahead of me it mainly took the hit in the right passenger side no damage to the intercooler but it broke off the coolant level sensor so which it was dumping coolant for a few blocks home.
:icon_eek:
Damn dude, that sucks hardcore. Good luck sourcing a replacement bumper for it, hopefully someone here can hook you up.
Got a 95 red front bumper and only hood we could find was a green 94 one pulled the old bumper off now dealing with the bent cross member
Ok so I pull into the drive way and look under the hood engine was steaming. There was a flow of coolant to the right side of the coil packs underneath the X over. Doesnt seem to leak unless its hot. ???
Prob= Pinhole in radiator hose