I've been using my '90 TGP as my daily driver for work most days of the week for the past few weeks, and it's a 40-minute drive in just one direction. The only problem I know I had before what I'm about to explain is probably an alignment issue; the car pulls to the right a little, and you can hear a squeak from one of the wheels at very low speeds that sounds like a brake pad squeak, but I have literally forced the pedal up and still heard this noise, so that is on my list. If you don't think it's alignment, say something...
(I should also mention now that the car is still at the other house and I cannot go over there tonight)
Anyways, I pull up to my grandmother's house because she made me and my sister dinner, car running same as usual. One hour later, we get back in, start the car, and the rev's go batshit crazy. I still have the standard broken dash, and it was reading 3k, then 1k, then 2k, etc. for a few moments. I have no idea what the revs really are, of course. I turned it off, tried again, and the car revved up, then dropped to <1k, then died again; tried again, and it lived even shorter. Wait five minutes, it stays alive in park, still struggling with the idle, and the moment I touch the gas, it dies again. Try again later, I can shift into park, reverse, drive, and the gas pedal doesn't kill it.
I reverse out of my spot, slow down to shift into drive to get the damn thing home because it's about to rain, and I hear... Hell, be my guest. I have no clue, it was some sort of sucky-liquidy noise that came from somewhere in the engine. I gave up, parked next to the curb, and got my grandma to take me home.
She guessed it was the fuel pump, any other ideas?
So yeah, I spent some time doing this rad new thing... Called "reading the forums." Need to check the fuel injectors and FPR, something I should've done a year ago, I think? :leaving:
sounds like the map sensor line is cracked . its a hard plastic line that goes under the upper intake from the throttle body to the map sensor. They usually melt/ crack,check it and replace it will a rubber line. Also, check your CEL codes, that will be a dead giveaway. Use a paperclip and connect to term A+ B on the diagnostic port. Turn key /accessories on and watch flash sequences, code 12 (indicating a properly working diag system) then your trouble code will come out, followed by another code 12 meaning (no more codes) , If you get 2 sets of code 12 in a row, that means you have no stored trouble codes and need to search elsewhere for your problem.