So far I have installed a K&N filter, Stage II tune from Adam, 19# Ford injectors, and replaced the OEM ignition coils.
Currently, the car idles high while in park, goes to normal when shifted out of park, but then goes straight back up when shifted back into park. Hot or cold. The car is hard starting (~20 seconds cranking) and of course smells like gas. No CEL. When I get a chance, going to check the fuel filter first then the vac lines. Any other suggestions?
Oh, and of course some asshole in one of the shop classes SAT on my hood and left a couple dents in it. :icon_evil:
check the fuel pressure bad fuel pressure regulator the fuel pressure will drop off fast when you turn the key off, also looking at the spark directly, example connecting a spare spark plug into the end of the plug wire and then grounding it out to the chasis or engine bolt, good spark = bright blue orange spark is all bad
my car still idles high when I start it :icon_neutral:
Next time you go to start it, turn the key into the ON position, but do not start it. Leave it in the ON position for 10-15 seconds, then press the key forward to start it. If it fires up quickly after that, it's a good sign your fuel pump may be going.
Did you check the fuel pressure?
FP with the key in the ON position as well as running is ~32psi, according to the Hayes manual this is ~10psi low. Took off the fuel filter and black crap fell out of it. Hopefully that won't trace back to the tank...
as long as the fuel pressure holds, and does not drop off quickly after turning the key off, then you should check the spark maybe look into used ICM. Could be as simple as a bad alternator, its more just trial and error.
Fuel pressure drops to 5 and builds once I start cranking, and it slowly goes down after I shut it down. Figured it out, though; never had this problem until I put in Adam's tune and some bargain-bin $20 19#/hr Ford injectors. Problem solved, gotta get ones that don't dump fuel into the cylinders. :icon_redface:
I think it is in the TGP handbook somewhere about not using bargain bin parts... :laugh:
It was from Ebay and they were only up for three hours more, and I had to leave for school literally the second I saw it, so I screamed at my dad to wake up and use my card and buy the damn things... It sure said they were used but fully functional... Took them out this afternoon and showed them to my instructor, and he said he couldn't see anything wrong with 'em and he's gonna bring an injector tester tomorrow. Also, the FPR is brand-freaking-new, so it isn't that.
This sucks. :icon_sad:
Southbay fuel injectors I have heard are pretty good company to go through they flow test their rebuilt injectors and they cover a wide variety of injectors.
Injectors tested out just fine, but I did see that the o-rings on the metal fuel lines where they attach to the fuel rail were torn to bits. Anyone know where to get them?
Quote from: Fred931 on October 27, 2011, 07:22:24 PM
Injectors tested out just fine, but I did see that the o-rings on the metal fuel lines where they attach to the fuel rail were torn to bits. Anyone know where to get them?
What were they tested with? If you only ohmed them out or tested with with a fuel injector activator....that only shows that they're electronically sound. That doesn't tell you that they leak under pressure.
Injector o-rings can be purchased at pretty much any auto parts store. Injector o-rings for our cars or for a Ford 5.0 mustang will work.
When you reinstall these injectors in the fuel rail, do not bolt down the rail and install the intake, etc. yet. Install them in the rail and place paper towels beneath each injector. Temporarily hook up the battery and turn the key forward to pressurize the fuel system. Now look at your paper towels and see if any of your injectors are leaking onto them. If so, they need to be dealt with. ;)
Quote from: mfewtrail on October 27, 2011, 09:33:12 PMInjector o-rings can be purchased at pretty much any auto parts store. Injector o-rings for our cars or for a Ford 5.0 mustang will work.
I don't need O-rings for the injectors, I need O-rings for where the fuel rail bolts to the two metal fuel lines that go into it.
And I found the bad injector this afternoon. Thanks Mfew.
Quote from: Fred931 on October 28, 2011, 04:54:23 AM
I don't need O-rings for the injectors, I need O-rings for where the fuel rail bolts to the two metal fuel lines that go into it.
And I found the bad injector this afternoon. Thanks Mfew.
I believe the part stores should have those as well. Just ask about fuel line/rail o-rings and they should have a kit with them in it.
Fuel pressure is back up to normal with the bad injector changed out. I think the hard start is gone, but someone in the class said they started it when I was away and it still struggles, But I don't trust that kid much. Idle is still high, tried re-seating the intake gaskets and the intake pipe and the problem was still there. A spark plug wire is sparking to ground, so I'm going to replace them. That may fall into what you suggested, Phat.
I also found this red wire from the fuel pump relay box, the one next to the battery, and it isn't connected to anything. It is the only red one I can see and it is a one-pin connector (I'll get a picture tonight), so can someone tell me if that's supposed to be plugged into anything?
OK So I took the plenum off to check the gasket again, and I saw a puddle of gas under an injector. So I took the rail out and now 3 more of them have crapped out. I really need new ones now, I'll try South Bay. Don't nag me, I learned my lesson...
Quote from: Fred931 on November 14, 2011, 03:53:27 PM
Fuel pressure is back up to normal with the bad injector changed out. I think the hard start is gone, but someone in the class said they started it when I was away and it still struggles, But I don't trust that kid much. Idle is still high, tried re-seating the intake gaskets and the intake pipe and the problem was still there. A spark plug wire is sparking to ground, so I'm going to replace them. That may fall into what you suggested, Phat.
I also found this red wire from the fuel pump relay box, the one next to the battery, and it isn't connected to anything. It is the only red one I can see and it is a one-pin connector (I'll get a picture tonight), so can someone tell me if that's supposed to be plugged into anything?
That is your fuel pump test wire. It's not supposed to be connected to anything.
button those fuel leaks up and , make sure you changed that fuel filter with "black crap" dripping out and you should be alright.
Window motor is fixed and works, and the trim is back in, but it's developed a big crack near the handle where there used to be a much smaller one, and it squeaks a bit. Don't care, though, the window WORKS! Also got the new injectors this afternoon.
If I was you I would go back in and make sure to lube the window "glides" with some Teflon or lithium grease. :icon_idea:
Progress is good to hear. ;)
New injectors are in. The hard start is gone, but the idle is still too high. Still need to check for vacuum leaks, but the instructor for our class never showed up today, so no chance to check since we can't be in the shop when he's not there.